Youda

I see this in the spec sheet:
"Supports peak shaving control in both "self-use" and "generator" mode"

Solis Hybrid Inverter 5KW S6-EH1P5K-L-PRO does support generator integration and effectively has a configurable GEN/Smart Port capability automatic generator start/stop, generator mode peak shaving, smart port functionality.
So in your earlier kettle example: 2 kW inverter generator connected to the Solis: kettle drawing 2.8–3 kW if you have PV available and/or battery …the Solis can supplement the shortfall from: battery, PV, or both simultaneously.
It behaves much closer to a Sunsynk/Deye hybrid than to a traditional off-grid inverter.
The generator does not need to carry the full kettle load alone.
The inverter can “assist” using DC-side energy.
PV production during daytime reduces generator loading automatically.
The only caveat same as with Sunsynk is that tiny inverter generators can sometimes have voltage sag, frequency drift or react slowly to sudden step loads if that happens, the Solis may disconnect from the generator input temporarily. Victron systems are still generally considered the benchmark for weak-generator handling through "Power Assist and ESS, but the newer Solis S6 hybrids are much more capable than older hybrids in this regard.
SANS compliance for the generator installation itself still needs to be considered separately. Generator output -dedicated breaker/isolator - inverter GEN input. Proper earthing conductor from generator frame to the installation earth system. Neutral-earth bonding handled in only ONE active location at a time. As soon as utility power( Eskom is interrupted) the inverter will create the earth/neutral bond on output so no need to bond the generator as GEN input is not seen as utility input to the inverter input.

The generator is nominal 1,800W so I'll set the maximum charge to 1,500W which for the 50V battery is 30A.

I'm getting a professional electrician that have experience with this type of installation, so a CoC will require a breaker I am sure.
Thanks for the feedback everyone.

Please post in English here.
Most factory firmwares leave the PV voltage too low even when the PV current increases enough to allow a higher PV voltage, and hence higher PV power. So the PV voltage is "stuck" at the minimum MPPT voltage, which for Axpert Max models is 90V. Other models can be stuck as low as 60V, some at 120V.
The result is lower than normal PV production. Most days, this reduces production by up to 50% or more for the first and last hours of sunlight. On cloudy days when you often need all the PV power possible, it can be reduced almost the entire day. Other days it might make little difference.
To test if it's happening, isolate the panels momentarily. Usually, PV production will then return to where it should be, with the PV voltage near the Maximum Power Point.
User Georg594 figured out patches for an older 8kW firmware, then "ported" the patches to a few other models. I've been porting these patches to several other models since.
Part of the patching involves choosing a new minimum PV voltage. That means that there isn't a "one size fits all" patched firmware for any particular model. So each patched firmware file now comes out as a set of patched firmwares.
A few factory firmwares have what I've been calling the "presumed good" MPPT algorithm. This seems to work a lot better than standard factory firmwares, but for some reason these don't seem to last and are not common. The patched firmwares seem to perform slightly better than these presumed good factory firmwares anyway. But this means that every time a new firmware is released by Voltronic, users have to choose between updating and losing the MPPT performance, or waiting until I or someone else gets around to patching the new firmware. Each patched firmware set takes me about 2 hours of work.

Hi. Thanks for your answer. Actually, i have placed a Axpert King 5000W for grid input. I have installed a "custom" ATS system for switching to grid or to battery input.
The system is composed of 2 relay :
one for AC GRID input
one for the AC Output of the 2 Axpert 8000W i use for solar and battery mode that works

The relays are controlled by each AC input comming to the breakers. When the system is on battery, the output relay is ON, and the Grid Relay is OFF, so the house appliances are feed by the 2 Axpert 8000W (max 16Kw output because they are in parrallel).

When the batteries are low, the 2 Axpert 8000W inverters will shut down. The AC ouput of the inverters is shutdown so the Inverter AC output relay in my system gos the the OFF position. The grid output relay is activated and AC output is feed by the grid (the Axpert King 5000W is wired in bypass mode for grid input to direct output, the usage of axpert King 5000W here is just for having the metrics of the grid usage only and since the Axpert King also have solar panels connected to him it reduces my grid usage).
I have add a timer for switching from grid to inverter output (3 seconds timer, during this time the house is completely with no AC, for allowing the relay to completely moving without spikes) since i am not very confident in my system and i don't want to risk a reverse current flow from the grid back to the inverters and burn them out.
Yes, this is a clumsy system but it is the only solution i have found actually for automating this system. The wiring of my house allow only 20A max for grid and we have to rewire completely the house but the owners don't want to make this at this time 😔

Yeah, I saw issues just like this in the past - RCD on the input side of inverter tripping when switching between modes. Not on every try, but pretty often.
Just to emphasize, these are RCDs, not MCBs. So it's not a spike or overcurrent, but in most cases the RDCs trip because of imbalance in current passing thru L vs N line. Which is normally caused by leakage current, or by shorting PE+N after the RCD.
Root cause:
Internal grounding relay (PE+N) of the inverter must be closed in the off-grid mode, but open in the grid mode.
When inverter is switching between modes and connects AC input to the grid before disconnecting internal PE+N relay, then RCD trips.
Since it is unsafe to run off-grid mode with the internal relay open, the inverters are trying to minimize the time with PE+N relay open - and sometimes it happens that AC input is already connected while the PE+N relay is not fully opened yet. Then RCD trips.
For inverters running in parallel it's even worse, as their mode switching logic is much more complicated.
The behavior depends on the logic incorporated in the inverter's firmware. Some models are doing OK, others are causing troubles.
The working solution is to put RCD at the inverter output, not at the input. RCD installed at the inverter input, especially when more inverters are running in parallel, is a free ticket for these troubles.
PS: For example, in my country, RCDs are mandatory for output circuits, like light, sockets, domestic appliances, water pumps, in order to protect users. If these circuits/devices are being fed by the inverters, then there's even more strict requirement - must use Type B RCD, the one that can detect DC currents. But, AFAIK, we have no requirement here to use RCDs for inverter inputs - just MCBs are sufficient.

Yeah, I saw issues just like this in the past - RCD on the input side of inverter tripping when switching between modes. Not on every try, but pretty often.
Just to emphasize, these are RCDs, not MCBs. So it's not a spike or overcurrent, but in most cases the RDCs trip because of imbalance in current passing thru L vs N line. Which is normally caused by leakage current, or by shorting PE+N after the RCD.
Root cause:
Internal grounding relay (PE+N) of the inverter must be closed in the off-grid mode, but open in the grid mode.
When inverter is switching between modes and connects AC input to the grid before disconnecting internal PE+N relay, then RCD trips.
Since it is unsafe to run off-grid mode with the internal relay open, the inverters are trying to minimize the time with PE+N relay open - and sometimes it happens that AC input is already connected while the PE+N relay is not fully opened yet. Then RCD trips.
For inverters running in parallel it's even worse, as their mode switching logic is much more complicated.
The behavior depends on the logic incorporated in the inverter's firmware. Some models are doing OK, others are causing troubles.
The working solution is to put RCD at the inverter output, not at the input. RCD installed at the inverter input, especially when more inverters are running in parallel, is a free ticket for these troubles.
PS: For example, in my country, RCDs are mandatory for output circuits, like light, sockets, domestic appliances, water pumps, in order to protect users. If these circuits/devices are being fed by the inverters, then there's even more strict requirement - must use Type B RCD, the one that can detect DC currents. But, AFAIK, we have no requirement here to use RCDs for inverter inputs - just MCBs are sufficient.

Yeah, I saw issues just like this in the past - RCD on the input side of inverter tripping when switching between modes. Not on every try, but pretty often.
Just to emphasize, these are RCDs, not MCBs. So it's not a spike or overcurrent, but in most cases the RDCs trip because of imbalance in current passing thru L vs N line. Which is normally caused by leakage current, or by shorting PE+N after the RCD.
Root cause:
Internal grounding relay (PE+N) of the inverter must be closed in the off-grid mode, but open in the grid mode.
When inverter is switching between modes and connects AC input to the grid before disconnecting internal PE+N relay, then RCD trips.
Since it is unsafe to run off-grid mode with the internal relay open, the inverters are trying to minimize the time with PE+N relay open - and sometimes it happens that AC input is already connected while the PE+N relay is not fully opened yet. Then RCD trips.
For inverters running in parallel it's even worse, as their mode switching logic is much more complicated.
The behavior depends on the logic incorporated in the inverter's firmware. Some models are doing OK, others are causing troubles.
The working solution is to put RCD at the inverter output, not at the input. RCD installed at the inverter input, especially when more inverters are running in parallel, is a free ticket for these troubles.
PS: For example, in my country, RCDs are mandatory for output circuits, like light, sockets, domestic appliances, water pumps, in order to protect users. If these circuits/devices are being fed by the inverters, then there's even more strict requirement - must use Type B RCD, the one that can detect DC currents. But, AFAIK, we have no requirement here to use RCDs for inverter inputs - just MCBs are sufficient.

I remember an old lady, who's son visited her on the weekend and asked if he could charge his EV (car)...
 

Problem with Pylontech is that even when the data communication from BMS to the inverter is working, the BMS tells the inverter to charge till 53,5V. (=3,57V per cell). 
Add the facts that:
1) The voltage is not distributed perfectly among the cells. Some will be At 3,4V while the others will be at 3,6V already. It is a job for the balancer to level the cells.
2) Pylontech balancer is quite weak, unable to burn amps of current.
3) Inverters like to overshoot voltage when AC load fluctuates.
The result is constant stress and hidden overcharging, as discussed in the Victron threads many times. On the Victron side this was fixed by firmware tweaks, luckily. But when comes to Axperts, the problem is even more dangerous as it is not solved in the official firmwares, AFAIK.
IMHO, the first step on the road to hell is that one of the cells gets damaged by that hidden overcharge. Then a chain reaction starts as all other cells become stressed even more. From that point there's no way back. It does not make sense to replace the cells if all other parts of the system will stay configured the same, as the damage will appear again.
From my experience, for the longevity, the best is to ignore charging voltage value that BMS is announcing and set 52,6V instead. Based on the setup it might be +-0,2V but definitelly not 53,5V. Shame is, the batteries that already experienced the stress for weeks or months cannot be saved as some of the cells started to swell already.

Another update on my LAB...
Couple of days ago, I did a small improvement on my 160L geyser. This project had two parts:
1) Clean the geyser
2) Use the solar energy to heat the water while keeping the grid as automatic backup
The unit is 7 years old and since the purchase, I performed zero maintenance on it. So I drained the tank, opened the flange and took a peek on the guts.
This is flange cover, with the casing for heating element and termostat probes. It's fully covered by the "limestone" sediments and the magnesium sacrifice rod is totally dissolved:

 
Inside the tank, there was a full bucket of lime sediments:

 
Luckilly, after a quick cleaning I realized that there was virtually no corrosion inside:

 
I've put old flange cover in the garbage, since I already had a new one, with the casing suitable for the larger heating element. Also ordered a new sacrifice rod and a ceramic element in a standard 3-phase configuration (star):
L1=1333 W
L2=1333 W
L2=1333 W
I rewired the element and split it into two parts. One will be fed by solar, the other will be connected to a grid and will switch-on only if there will be bad weather for a number of days.
L Solar = 2666 W
L Grid = 1333 W
Ceramic heater rewired:

 
The original panel had just one thermostat (plus one safety thermostat). So, I've added a second thermostat, some wires and LED's in a way that allows me to control each half of the heating element independently:

 
The actual wiring of the panel:

Upper part will be fed from Inverter. Bottom part will be fed from the grid and it's thermostat will be set to a minimum temperature suitable for taking a shower or bath Drawing on the side represents the location of the probes for each thermostat. Since hot water tends to collect in upper levels, grid thermostat has it's probe located the most high. Therefore, it will turn-on heating only if the water in the tank will be really cold. Contrary, the thermostat associated with the Inverter is located at the bottom, so whenever the water at the bottom will be even slighly cold, it will turn the heating on.

Good morning guys,
so it's 8:30 in the morning and the panels are pushing almost 6000 watts:

Well, it looks like the east-west orientation is not THAT BAD, as I was initially afraid of

Thats right. On the other hand, with such a steep angle, there is enough solar power from morning till the sun goes down. So I can make my morning shot of meth..err of coffee...without torturing the lithium.

DB:

 
Monitoring:



 
There's no "AmpHours" counter in the Fibaro, so I used "Btu/h" instead, sorry for that:

Hi guys,
let me share my current solar LAB setup with you:
PV modules
The only installation option was the roof,  which unfortunatelly has a bad orientation: one side of the roof is facing East while the other is to the West. So I decided to install panels on the both sides of the roof. Luckilly, the panels are not so expensive and are going to last for decades, especially when compared to price and endurance of batteries. It's 36x 275Wp facing West and 36x 280Wp facing East. All together it's almost 20kWp of solar modules, but because of the orientation, the maximum possible power is quite a bit less than that. Panels are wired in four high-voltage string,  each having 18 panels connected in a series. The actual voltage of each string is 600V. Inverters, that I use, have a maximum allowed DC voltage of 900V, so there is a plenty of room for voltage increase that is going to happen during cold winters that we're experiencing here. For the DC cabling, I used 6mm2 solar cable.
WEST:

 
EAST:

 
Photo from mounting the modules:

 
Inverters
All the high-voltage strings are connected directly to a pair of InfiniSolar Plus 5K inverters, that are paralleled together. So, there's no combiner box under the roof. Of course, there are fuses placed in each string, one fuse for positive and one for negative. Every string has a surge protection too (Citel). The inverters are set in OffGrid III mode, so they use ESKOM just for syncing their frequency with the grid, but the grid itself is disconnected (there's a grid disconnect relay in each InfiniSolar). Therefore no energy is supplied back to the grid, nor can it be physically supplied. When a power spike on the AC output of the inverter occurs, the inverter sends the excessive energy to the battery. Such a spikes occurs whenever a strong appliance is turned off, for example geyser or kettle. If the battery is completely discharged, the inverters can automatically switch to the bypass from the mains. In such a case, solar energy is used only to charge the battery until the battery voltage reaches an acceptable level again. So far, it has not happened, but since winter is comming, I'm awaiting this to happen soon. If the grid fails, nothing happens, the inverters do not need the grid to run. Synchronization of both Infinis with the grid is drawing 4 Watts total. Well, I'm looking forward to see the invoice from the ESKOM The combined power of the inverters is 10KVA, so it can run ANY appliance that I need, even some combinations are not a problem. So I'm running a washing machine, geyser, fridge with ice maker, tumble dryer, induction cooktop, etc. Not counting numerous computers, laptops and TV's.
InfiniSolar Parallel:

 
Backup
Just to be safe, the LAB is backed by 3kVA UPS and the 8kVA genset with electric start. So I left the UPS to supply the light circuits, internet routers, firewall, DVRs, surveilance cams and other crap. The genset is wired in a way that it can supply the AC to the InfiniSolars in order to power the LAB and/or charge the batteries in a case of a real emergency. To be honest, I'm running a genset just once per month to do a regular "fire-drill", since it's cheap and loud as hell.
Battery bank
The battery bank is a 48V 200Ah LFP box that I've purchased as a product built to order. There's 16x100Ah Winston cell. So far, it works great, but my LAB has a night consumption of about 6kWh, so the battery is small in the long run. There's 16x 1A balancer, coordinated by a central BMS. The BMS has a small OLED display, so you can check the SoC, AmpHours, charging current etc. directly by looking on the box.

Monitoring
BMS cyclically send all it's status and all the values to the UART interface. So I hooked UART with Z-Uno and pass the values through Z-Wave wirelles network to the home automation (Fibaro). The Fibaro is already monitoring all electricity meters that I set up on AC in/out. It's also monitoring and controlling a number of electrical appliances I have. And sice I wanted to have everything in the one place, I'm monitoring the RS232 interfaces of both InfiniSolars. Thanks to this, with just a cellphone I can see how the laboratory works while I'm on the other side of the world. For example, I can turn any appliance off/on or change the temperature of the heating in each room separately. Well, I hope that this supercomplicated system won't kill me in somewhere in the future. BTW, the geyser is operated in the same way - Fibaro turns it on when the batteries are full and there's a lot of sunlight. Values from Fibaro can be easily transferred to EmonCMS, so I do in order to keep a history charts. In each InfiniSolar, I have an SNMP Web Pro Card installed, so I do not need the SolarPower and SolarPower Pro software at all. Built-in webserver on SNMP cards is quite usable, and in fact you can also set up parallel mode with it's help. The downside is that after a few weeks the SNMP card got stuck - obviously the watchdog circuit is missing. At first I thought that one of the cards was faulty, but after the second card experienced the same issue, I realized that it is "a feature".
 
36x PV module delivered:

 
 

Just updated another batch of batteries. There were 3 different types:
Original US3000 US3000C with the older chip US3000C with the new chip Everything went okay, here's the final update window for each type:

Original US3000, named s US3000A in the software:
US3000C with the older chip:

US3000C with the new chip (as identified by E2 or C3 in the serial number):

 

***DISCLAIMER: Use at you own risk. You may brick and/or damage your batteries
How to upgrade firmware of the Pylontech batteries
If it works okay, do not touch it! If it does not work okay, contact your dealer. If your dealer is not helpful, contact Pylontech support. If Pylontech support is not answering, then you can try to upgrade the firmware. Connect laptop PC to the Pylontech battery:
1) First, you'll need to make (or purchase) a serial cable in order to connect a laptop to CONSOLE port of the battery.
Older models of Pylontech batteries are using RJ-11, while newer models are equipped with RJ-45.

Wiring on the right is suitable for all the new models, including US3000C, US5000C, Force H1 and Force H2:

2) A lot of people are struggling with making a working cable, because in some versions of Pylontech user-manual there's a missing information on the GND pin for the RJ-45 console port. Other people are unable to connect since they swapped TX and RX. So, here's the actual pinout of console port for RJ-11 and RJ-45:

3) Grab a Windows laptop PC equipped with a physical DB9 serial port and connect it to the battery stack via the cable above. As an alternative, you can use cheap USB-to-SERIAL converter, for example FTDI-based.
WARNING: Console port is RS232, with positive and negative voltage levels. Therefore, you have to use true RS232 serial-port interface, NOT UART 3.3 or 5V!
4) Download and unpack Pylontech_Tools.zip from the link bellow.
The password for the ZIP file is: Youda
5) Start the BatteryView software:
For batteries with a very old firmware, BatteryView 2 works the best. For new batteries, use BatteryView 3.0.28 or newer. Select the respective COM port and use 115200 baud-rate 6) Now you can perform diagnostic tasks, or update battery's firmware.

Updating Pylontech firmware:
1) When updating firmware, the best is to power-down whole stack, remove all the LINK cables between the batteries and then turning-on just one battery at a time and perform the FW upgrade on it. Then repeat the process for the next battery. Updating batteries while online in a stack works too, but you will get alarms and red lights.
2) There are several models of Pylontech batteries and the firmware is INCOMPATIBLE between most of them:
If you flash a wrong FW in the battery you will brick it. FW numbering is INCONSISTENT between the models. Fox example: For an old battery with certain PCB the FW2.4 might be the most-recent, while for a new battery with a different PCB and chipset the most-recent version would be FW1.9. In other words - higher number does not automatically mean that the firmware is newer, nor better! 3) If possible, it's preferred to update FW via BatteryView 3.0.28 while using following rules:
For updating US2000C, US3000C and US5000 select the whole ZIP file that includes two BIN packages inside and perform update. The BW3.0.28 will be able to pick right BIN file inside the ZIP package automatically. DO NOT select BIN package manually. When updating US2000 and US3000 then you must select the correct BIN file manually, for a shame. 4) Due to the silicon chip shortage Pylontech changed the BMS chip for some of the produced batteries. Therefore, for some models there are two different firmware branches. One for the original chip and the other for the new chip. Luckily, when upgrading FW via the ZIP method desribed above, the BW3.0.28 will choose the correct branch (BIN file) automatically.
 

5) This list indicates firmware version suitable for the each model and what file to flash:

Model: US2000plus
FW: V2.9
FLASH: us2000b_v2.9_Crc.bin
Model: US2000plus95
FW: V3.4
FLASH: us2000B_Plus_V3.4_Crc.bin
Model: US3000
FW: V3.4
FLASH: us3000a_V3.4_Crc.bin
Model: US2000C (original chip)
FW: V2.8
FLASH: NT1.7+2.8.zip
Model: US3000C (original chip)
FW: V2.8
FLASH: NT1.7+2.8.zip
Model: US2000C (new chip)
FW: V1.7
FLASH: NT1.7+2.8.zip
Model: US3000C (new chip)
FW: V1.7
FLASH: NT1.7+2.8.zip
Model: US5000 (original chip)
FW: V1.3
FLASH: US5000 ST+NT 1.3.zip
Model: US5000 (new chip)
FW: V1.3
FLASH: US5000 ST+NT 1.3.zip
 
6) If you have a bricked battery, you can use Pylontech Upgrade Tool V1.0.9 from the Pylontech_Tools.zip to recover it via flashing a correct firmware. The process is as follows:
Connect the debug cable to this software and the battery (attention: at this time please do not switch the battery on), then 1. open the software, click Immediate Update. 2. Click Connect. 3. Click Browse to select the correct firmware. 4. Then click Program and switch on the battery by hard switch and the red soft start button immediately. This will bring the battery back to normal. 7) When updating firmware, it's the best to turn-off all the batteries in the stack and remove all the LINK cables.
Then power-on a single battery and perform FW update on it.
Repeat for the remaining batteries in the stack.
Reconnect all the LINK cables and start the stack as normal.
Although it is possible to perform FW update while the battery is running in the stack, you will get alarms and red lights when you'll do it that way.

8 ) Firmware packages mentioned above are packed in this archive:
Download and unpack the ZIP budle from the link bellow.
The password for the ZIP file is: Youda
 
Youda

Just updated another batch of batteries. There were 3 different types:
Original US3000 US3000C with the older chip US3000C with the new chip Everything went okay, here's the final update window for each type:

Original US3000, named s US3000A in the software:
US3000C with the older chip:

US3000C with the new chip (as identified by E2 or C3 in the serial number):

 

***DISCLAIMER: Use at you own risk. You may brick and/or damage your batteries
How to upgrade firmware of the Pylontech batteries
If it works okay, do not touch it! If it does not work okay, contact your dealer. If your dealer is not helpful, contact Pylontech support. If Pylontech support is not answering, then you can try to upgrade the firmware. Connect laptop PC to the Pylontech battery:
1) First, you'll need to make (or purchase) a serial cable in order to connect a laptop to CONSOLE port of the battery.
Older models of Pylontech batteries are using RJ-11, while newer models are equipped with RJ-45.

Wiring on the right is suitable for all the new models, including US3000C, US5000C, Force H1 and Force H2:

2) A lot of people are struggling with making a working cable, because in some versions of Pylontech user-manual there's a missing information on the GND pin for the RJ-45 console port. Other people are unable to connect since they swapped TX and RX. So, here's the actual pinout of console port for RJ-11 and RJ-45:

3) Grab a Windows laptop PC equipped with a physical DB9 serial port and connect it to the battery stack via the cable above. As an alternative, you can use cheap USB-to-SERIAL converter, for example FTDI-based.
WARNING: Console port is RS232, with positive and negative voltage levels. Therefore, you have to use true RS232 serial-port interface, NOT UART 3.3 or 5V!
4) Download and unpack Pylontech_Tools.zip from the link bellow.
The password for the ZIP file is: Youda
5) Start the BatteryView software:
For batteries with a very old firmware, BatteryView 2 works the best. For new batteries, use BatteryView 3.0.28 or newer. Select the respective COM port and use 115200 baud-rate 6) Now you can perform diagnostic tasks, or update battery's firmware.

Updating Pylontech firmware:
1) When updating firmware, the best is to power-down whole stack, remove all the LINK cables between the batteries and then turning-on just one battery at a time and perform the FW upgrade on it. Then repeat the process for the next battery. Updating batteries while online in a stack works too, but you will get alarms and red lights.
2) There are several models of Pylontech batteries and the firmware is INCOMPATIBLE between most of them:
If you flash a wrong FW in the battery you will brick it. FW numbering is INCONSISTENT between the models. Fox example: For an old battery with certain PCB the FW2.4 might be the most-recent, while for a new battery with a different PCB and chipset the most-recent version would be FW1.9. In other words - higher number does not automatically mean that the firmware is newer, nor better! 3) If possible, it's preferred to update FW via BatteryView 3.0.28 while using following rules:
For updating US2000C, US3000C and US5000 select the whole ZIP file that includes two BIN packages inside and perform update. The BW3.0.28 will be able to pick right BIN file inside the ZIP package automatically. DO NOT select BIN package manually. When updating US2000 and US3000 then you must select the correct BIN file manually, for a shame. 4) Due to the silicon chip shortage Pylontech changed the BMS chip for some of the produced batteries. Therefore, for some models there are two different firmware branches. One for the original chip and the other for the new chip. Luckily, when upgrading FW via the ZIP method desribed above, the BW3.0.28 will choose the correct branch (BIN file) automatically.
 

5) This list indicates firmware version suitable for the each model and what file to flash:

Model: US2000plus
FW: V2.9
FLASH: us2000b_v2.9_Crc.bin
Model: US2000plus95
FW: V3.4
FLASH: us2000B_Plus_V3.4_Crc.bin
Model: US3000
FW: V3.4
FLASH: us3000a_V3.4_Crc.bin
Model: US2000C (original chip)
FW: V2.8
FLASH: NT1.7+2.8.zip
Model: US3000C (original chip)
FW: V2.8
FLASH: NT1.7+2.8.zip
Model: US2000C (new chip)
FW: V1.7
FLASH: NT1.7+2.8.zip
Model: US3000C (new chip)
FW: V1.7
FLASH: NT1.7+2.8.zip
Model: US5000 (original chip)
FW: V1.3
FLASH: US5000 ST+NT 1.3.zip
Model: US5000 (new chip)
FW: V1.3
FLASH: US5000 ST+NT 1.3.zip
 
6) If you have a bricked battery, you can use Pylontech Upgrade Tool V1.0.9 from the Pylontech_Tools.zip to recover it via flashing a correct firmware. The process is as follows:
Connect the debug cable to this software and the battery (attention: at this time please do not switch the battery on), then 1. open the software, click Immediate Update. 2. Click Connect. 3. Click Browse to select the correct firmware. 4. Then click Program and switch on the battery by hard switch and the red soft start button immediately. This will bring the battery back to normal. 7) When updating firmware, it's the best to turn-off all the batteries in the stack and remove all the LINK cables.
Then power-on a single battery and perform FW update on it.
Repeat for the remaining batteries in the stack.
Reconnect all the LINK cables and start the stack as normal.
Although it is possible to perform FW update while the battery is running in the stack, you will get alarms and red lights when you'll do it that way.

8 ) Firmware packages mentioned above are packed in this archive:
Download and unpack the ZIP budle from the link bellow.
The password for the ZIP file is: Youda
 
Youda

Speaking of community, I am offering free EV charging already (as described somewhere on the previous pages). Originally it's meant as a help to those with a flat battery, but some drivers even made a habbit of comming and charging their EVs regularly here 😁

Hi guys,
I've realized that my first Pylontech battery will be 6 years old this March, so I've pulled some stats on the SOH and Cycles to share together with my thoughts.
CC = 52.5V
CV = 52.5V
8x US3000
System SOH : 96 % Power Volt Curr Tempr Tlow Thigh Vlow Vhigh Base.St Volt.St Curr.St Temp.St Coulomb Time B.V.St B.T.St 1 50955 -260 23000 20000 21000 3390 3399 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 22:16:53 Normal Normal 2 50965 -256 23000 20000 21000 3390 3400 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 22:16:52 Normal Normal 3 50970 -260 23000 20000 20000 3392 3402 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 22:16:52 Normal Normal 4 50948 -252 23000 20000 20000 3387 3399 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 22:16:52 Normal Normal 5 50969 -256 23000 20000 20000 3389 3399 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 22:16:52 Normal Normal 6 50975 -262 22000 20000 20000 3392 3400 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 22:16:52 Normal Normal 7 50959 -268 22000 19000 19000 3391 3399 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 22:16:52 Normal Normal 8 50945 -260 21000 18000 18000 3388 3398 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 22:16:52 Normal Normal CYCLE Times : 267 CYCLE Times : 518 CYCLE Times : 521 CYCLE Times : 523 CYCLE Times : 529 CYCLE Times : 520 CYCLE Times : 511 CYCLE Times : 501  
8x US3000C
System SOH : 98 % Power Volt Curr Tempr Tlow Thigh Vlow Vhigh Base.St Volt.St Curr.St Temp.St Coulomb Time B.V.St B.T.St MosTempr M.T.St 1 50890 0 22100 19900 19900 3387 3396 Idle Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 23:52:12 Normal Normal 20600 Normal 2 50903 -203 22300 19900 20200 3378 3397 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 23:52:10 Normal Normal 21000 Normal 3 50897 -256 23300 19700 20100 3386 3396 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 23:52:08 Normal Normal 21300 Normal 4 50906 -256 22300 18900 19300 3386 3396 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 23:52:08 Normal Normal 20600 Normal 5 50895 -258 22000 19000 19400 3385 3395 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 23:52:08 Normal Normal 20200 Normal 6 50896 -266 21900 18300 18600 3385 3397 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 23:52:08 Normal Normal 19900 Normal 7 50896 -260 20900 17900 18200 3386 3395 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 23:52:08 Normal Normal 19200 Normal 8 50901 -264 20600 17100 17500 3387 3397 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 23:52:08 Normal Normal 18900 Normal 9 - - - - - - - Absent - - - - - - - 10 - - - - - - - Absent - - - - - - - 11 - - - - - - - Absent - - - - - - - 12 - - - - - - - Absent - - - - - - - 13 - - - - - - - Absent - - - - - - - 14 - - - - - - - Absent - - - - - - - 15 - - - - - - - Absent - - - - - - - 16 - - - - - - - Absent - - - - - - - CYCLE Times : 140 CYCLE Times : 141 CYCLE Times : 246 CYCLE Times : 233 CYCLE Times : 240 CYCLE Times : 249 CYCLE Times : 249 CYCLE Times : 247  
At a first look, it's not that bad with 96% SOH on a 6yrs old battery. But on the other hand, it's been 4% down for just roughly 500 cycles it made in that time. If linear, then after around 2500 cycles made in total, it will be at 80% SOH. If 500 cycles took me 6yrs then after 2500 cycles done in total the battery will be 30 years old. No way the battery will last for that long. Based on this, I would say that the battery will die of age well before it dies on cycles.
What do you think?
Youda

Hi, I had the same issue on my US5000C I added to an existing stack today. I spoke to Pylontech support in the UK (about something else related to a US3000C being undervoltage) and he said it's a known bug in v2.0 , and you need to downgrade to v1.9. I did that just now and , voila, I can see all 3 batteries.

Hi @jamila
To be honest, 6 panels for a family of five is almost nothing. 
Assuming cca 500Wp per panel, that would be just 3kWp, which translates to roughly 15kWh per day in SA. Not so bad on a first sight, but there's a lot of gotchas:
If the system is connected to the grid, and you start any load higher than 2,5kW and it's not perfect noon, then you will be drawing that missing power from the grid (or batteries.) On a cloudy/rainy day the power drops quickly. Next day, you have to satisfy the loads, but to charge the flat battery at the same time. If your house wiring is 3-phase, but the PV system is 1-phase, then the benefit is minimal. Etc. If you are not electrician, installer or PV geek, then I would advise you to get in touch with a reputable PV installer (or company) in your area, have them check your current PV system, loads, house wiring, family needs and then design a detailed plan of PV system upgrade based on the calculations.
If you want a quick answer, then from my experience the reasonable solar for a family house starts at 10kWp of PV (cca 20 panels), 20kWh of lithium battery, 10kW of inverter power. For offgrid use, 1-phase wiring and inverter makes sense most of the time. But like I said - check your situation with an installer.
 
Not to mention that I've seen 1-phase solar in a 3-phase house.
Or a PV system, that was configured as backup only, not helping the house loads at all.

Oh my, that's really 25-30kWh every day! What are you doing with all that electricity?
Mining Bitcoin? Charging EV? Or is it the Air Condition maybe?
If that's A/C, then your consumption should go down in the winter, I suppose.
Anyway, I would suggest to try being disconnected from the grid for as long as possible, and get some consumption stats for the 1st year. Then you can decide what to upgrade, if anything.
Just remember - speaking of solar, the only thing that generates electricity are the panels. So there's no point in increasing capacity of batteries if you lack PV generation each and every day for a week or two. Batteries will help you bridge a day or two, but not a week or month.

Just a small update on this:
the setup is in place since 12days and it works very well, cell are pretty ballanced, stays under 0.004V normally and when at 100% charge it raise to around 0.02V. The total voltage between batteries is a bit different by 0.1V. Probably due to wiring/internal battery resistance/bms measuring accuracy.
Set the inverter to voltage control, using following settings (winter settings):
Battery float charge voltage 51 V
Battery absorption charge voltage 52.5 V
Battery equalization charge voltage 52.5