Iiceman

Item: 5 x Hubble AM2's Age: 2 are 4yrs old (Bought new 2021) 1365 and 1095 cycles 1 is 3yrs old (Bought new 2022) 874 cycles 1 is 2yrs old (Bough new 2023) 853 cycles 1 is bought pre owned off this forum (2023) 379 cycles Price: R 12k each Payment Method Accepted: EFT Warranty: i believe the AM2's have a 10 year warranty on the cells or 3000 cycles... Packaging: none Condition: Excellent, were discharged down to 40% Location: PTA Reason: going bigger battery bank, no space to add more hubbles..

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did u check what the differential temp settings are? also , can u post a pic of your control panel? my control panel does not have a red light...

Hi All Has anyone managed to integrate their heatpump into HA? i have an alliance hotwater HP, that has a basic controller with only 3 timer settings. I need a controller that is able to connect and integrate into smart home, to manage it better. I called Alliance but they dont make a smart version of this controller for hot water heatpumps. So just checking if anyone has managed to or knows how to get around this... regards

correct

On the Sonoff's you can set the default "Power-On State". Meaning if u set it to on, and it looses power, when power is restored it be in the ON position. The Sonoff's store the schedules onboard the device memory, so even with no internet it will work

No, you dont need another BMS, the AM2 has a BMS called PaceBMS. the PaceBMS add-on i mentioned above is software that can read the PaceBMS in the AM2. contact number?

Home assistant is free software PaceBMS is also free software cable can be bought from the solarassistant online shop - https://solar-assistant.io/shop/products/pace_rs232 once setup, plug the battery cable into the master AM2 and it will be able to read all AM2's connected...

I use Home Assistant with the PACEBMS add-on and the hubble am2 cable. I now can monitor all the sensors and cell voltages on my AM2's

it has a drain pipe as well as the tank, so i dont use the tank

i recently got this one. Defy Tumble Dryer, thats A++ rated..tested its consumption over the last few weeks and it uses on average 1.5Kw per cycle https://www.hirschs.co.za/defy-9kg-heat-pump-dryer-dtd323

same here, seeing a 2cycle increase per day across all my AM2's

put a SSL certificate on HA, enable 2FA and do port forwarding on tor router so u can access it from anywhere..

have u thought about getting them 3d printed? A good 3d print store should be able to scan an example and print it for u.

i use an Alliance 7.2kW heat pump, to heat a 200L geyser. Consumes about 2.2kW or around 10amps when running. Pretty much as Scorp007 says, in summer its quick to heat the geyser, winter a little longer, but still way more efficient than an element

in which area?

you can 3d print this fan housing, attach 2x92mm fans with power supply, and mount to the bottom of the inverter...works very well... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5224913

check on inverter, advanced settings, if the inverter is set to "slave", if so, change to "master"

unfortunately the manual does not cover this. Would have been an awesome feature to have ..

Hi All The 16kW SunSynk has dual battery input. Does anyone know if that will allow one to use 2 different battery types/brands? Example, using Hubble's on 1 input and BLS on the other.. Since there is only 1 can port, i guess battery voltages could be used... thoughts?

You can use this as a guide..

i would also go with anything else but Hubble, i have 3x AM2's and each of those batteries have been back to Hubble at least twice in the last year, because of issues...

ok cool thanks bud, much appreciated, let me try and get the connection moved and see from there...

yeah our systems sound very similar. So i still have the municipal feed, purely as a backup, incase of pump or tank failure. i have adjusted the water pressure on the DAB, since we have low flow shower heads (6L/PM) , 2.6 on the dab is more than sufficeint. yeah i think im going to move the connection to after the pressure control valve, and then see the outcome.. do u have an inline pressure tank to reduce the cycling of the pump?

Hi @Johandup thanks for the advice, so i only have 1 pressure control valve, which is just after the municipal water meter, my geysers dont have any pressure control valves. My plumber says that this must stay in place to control municipal water, as at times it can come in at very high pressures, which in turn will damages pipes and fittings.. So in this case do you think i should move the dab mainline to just after the pressure control valve with a "one way valve" just before the new connection? See image below