Jay-Dee

https://pvstore.co.za/products/hubble-lithium-am-2-48v-5-5kwh?_pos=1&_sid=920335fda&_ss=r They had a few in stock this morning in their JHB branch. I ordered one this morning and they are transferring it down to their CPT branch at no cost. Not the cheapest but far from the most expensive (R30K+)

I got a response on email the other day... Took a few hours but they did reply. Sadly, everything I was looking for was out of stock, so I would check first

@SolarConvert... So I was putting an install together at my parents house and thought I would order a Narada and hope that I got the same version as my current batteries. I ordered it off Takealot as they were the only ones with stock and the below is what arrived. This version has the Tian Power BMS and generated exactly the same results as you found. Needless to say it is on its way back This is one of my original / current batteries that does talk to the inverter. What does yours with the Tian Power BMS look like?

Has anyone dealt with Solar Equipment in Sedgefield / PE ? They seem to have been around since 2012 and look legit, just not in the area to check out personally Thanks in advance

Thank you... Lot to think about here... I am seeing the CRC error when I was plugging Solar Assistant in.. I am going to split the cable and see if I still get the CRC error.. That will at least confirm that it is "connecting". Then it is about chatting to both teams and seeing if either or both will help

What are you using to sniff the port? I have my Narada working as you know... It is using pins 1&2... I want to see if I can sniff on pins 7&8 at the same time. ICM and Solar assist dont work on the BMS / RS485 port when it is set to mode 16... I want to convince them to fix this and the above helps a lot but I need to know first, that both the battery and ICM can work on the same port at the same time or alternatively, I want to try using a RS485 splitter or connect them in parallel. Thanks in advance!!

Anyone have either a Hubble AM-4 or Pylontech UP2500 battery for sale... New or Used. I am Cape Town based but happy to consider courier if from a reliable source See I just missed one on here 😥

Looking good!!

This is soo annoying but makes sense... As the spec maxes out at 500v / 13A which equates to 6500w. Despite the spec sheet showing 13A + 13A on the MPPTs, the maths says otherwise.. I was hoping that it was simply a max PV amount and not so much max overall amperage as I would have loved to 9x 495w JA Solar panels on 1 string and 4x panels on the other... The issues comes in here is the panels are 12.97A which means that I could never max out the 6500w 😔. Going to need to rethink my panel choice vs roof space

Amazing and thank you. Out of interest, where does one see that on the data sheet or is it just tested common knowledge?

Sorry if this is obvious or has been discussed before but I cant seem to find an answer for this. My Sunsynk has 2x 13A MPPTs and the spec sheet says it can handle a max of 6500w PV (https://www.sunsynk.org/_files/ugd/9350f7_db0c934c3cb84ad58fee44358212198a.pdf). The question is can the inverter use all that power at once? i.e. Can it power the load at 3500w and charge the batteries at 3000w at the same time or will it be limited to the max 5000w? I am looking at upgrading my existing panels but want to work out if it is worth pushing to the max.

For me, I turned the inverter off on the switch at the bottom... Then dropped AC input, turn the PV and batteries off and within a few seconds that inverter turns off completely. Then turned it all back on. I dont know if this is needed but from reading the thread before I got it working, it mentioned to reboot... So this is my reboot I dont know if it is needed on the inverter too but definitely the batteries when changing the dip switches

Having just changed from Axpert to Sunsynk... I can say it is worth the upgrade if you going to use the additional features. The higher voltage MPPT works better for me but the 5kw version has a consumption of around 200w.. This was a surprise for me vs my old Axpert King but was offset by the Axpert charge fault where is was constantly charing a 2A and could not be disabled (not sure if this was fixed on the Max's or not)

Have you set the lithium mode to 16 on the inverter? Once set, you need to give your inverter a full reboot. Also as per @zivva - You need to set the dip switches as follows if you have more than one battery 100000 (master, connected to the inverter) & 010000 (slave). Batteries will also need a reboot after this change

25A at 220v / 240v is just under 6000w. This means that the circuit wont be able to cater for any momentary spikes (i.e. a pool motor engaging) 35A is just over 8000w. You are under the 10 000w spike limit of the inverter, you are protecting your inverter and should be safe / safer from nuisance tripping. Technically no, you dont if you are not planning on using bi-direction power on the grid supply. As it is a UPS and this feature is disabled when there is no active grid from my understanding and it would be pointless to leave it activated when your power source is the grid. As a safety measure, it would be good as this would help protect your Electricity Meter and Eskom from feeding back / exporting if some settings were changed after initial configuration. Just be aware there are very specific regulations for cabling of things before the earth leakage. This is for your households safety. I have just installed a Sunsynk my self and had issues with the earth leakage and the regulations require the non-protected cables to be a surface mounted in trunking or conduit or a certain depth in the wall. Basically the idea is that you dont drill into the cable and fry yourself without knowing it is there. Having said the above, my installation only tripped the earth leakage when the inverter "booted" up for the first time from scratch (or when my solar panels got wet). It never was an issue when changing between grid and batteries. It may be worth testing before removing the Earth Leakage protection.

Such a beautiful curve today... Solid 23% day on day generation increase As for the planting trees... I already have a number of newly planted mess free trees in the space which we will be hugging for a while. Couple that is the decreased grid reliance, I can still sleep at night knowing I am a little more green 🌲

Could not agree more... From my understanding it was there when our house was built in the early 90s. The mess it makes is unreal and then you have to deal with palm leaves flying off in the wind from 25m up all while, all you can see of the tree is the trunk

So we had a palm tree that was shading 2 sets of panels for about 3 to 4 hours a day. The palm also made a mess in the pool (that is my excuse and I am sticking to it), so today the tree got removed 🤣 We went from 2kw to 2.5kw immediately as the tree at any one point in time was shading 3 of 12 panel. The cleaning of the panels was from the saw dust that covered 4 of the panels. If you ever wondered what shading does / how badly it effects your generation... Now you know !! #sorry-to-all-the-tree-huggers

Have not tried one but had the same thoughts as you. From all the YouTube videos that I have watched there seem to be 2 main issues with them.. 1 - Noise on the larger but cheaper versions can be an issue 2 - Value for money when looking over an extended period of time results in the better yields from installing additional panels In your case, as you have said... You have maxed out your MPPTs, so extra panels that way would not be viable. You could used the Aux port for Wind or extra panels via a micro-inverter but then your generator would fall away. How had you planned on connecting the turbine. Also out of interest, which turbine were you looking at as that seems very good value?

Found something interesting, not that it helps much now but would have origonally... Sunsynk have updated the user manual. https://www.sunsynk.org/_files/ugd/9350f7_f638285bf3f64db3919aed0c5ff8100f.pdf On page 46, the Narada batteries have been added with notes for the pins. I think they are looking at the RJ45 plug backwards to me or perhaps the battery supports 2 options mirrored like the inverter On pages 69 and 70 they have also added appendixes for pin-outs for Inverter and Battery ports Hope these can help

Was about to say, yes they do offer trials... No there is nothing special about the cable. I used a standard converter I purchased from Communica - https://www.communica.co.za/products/bmt-usb-rs485-ttl-converter-ftdi?variant=31667841826889 From what I believe, the FTDI chip based ones are better / more reliable

Hopefully my experience can help others looking to make the same migration as I did... I had an Axpert King 5K with 12 panels and 2 batteries. Everything was running perfectly and I had no issues or need to upgrade. I was given the opportunity to upgrade to a Sunsynk which I had wanted since they I found out about them a year after I did my initial installation... The itch got me and I upgraded. To be completely honest, I only had to pay in R5k to upgrade which is what played a large factor into the equation. Before the migration, I knew I would need to change my panels from 2S6P to 8S and 4S... I was hoping that the change from 1 MPPT with multiple panels in parallel would be out performed by 2 MPPTs with the panels all in series. Currently I have a lot of shading over a 3 or 4 hour period, so this was a hit and miss as Parallel is better for shading but 2 MPPTs could be an advantage. Also you then need to factor in that the Axpert is a low voltage MPPT system vs high voltage in the Sunsynk which is supposed to be slightly more efficient. Nothing could help me guess the results but I am please to confirm a 20% increase in generation when comparing 2 good weather days within the same week. On the Axpert, I was using ICM to monitor the system whereas the Sunsynk now comes with the WiFi data logger and links to their own cloud system. Anyone who has used and liked ICC / ICM will be horrified with the display of information from the Sunsynk system. To be honest, if this was my only option... I would have to seriously consider sending the inverter back. It is not realtime, the information is split over multiple screens and there is zero logic in the user experience. I have Narada batteries which require the RS485 port for comms which means that I have to run ICM via RS232 but for those whose batteries can communicate with the inverter via CAN Bus, you can run ICM or Solar Assistant via RS485 and the Sunsynk Data Logger via RS232 at the same time. My overall main reason for wanting to change was 2 fold... 1) The battery management - This is fantastic once you have worked out the programming and far outperforms the configurability of the Axpert's SBU / SUB options. This makes managing the battery for Load shedding an absolute pleasure and very efficient. Also with the inverter talking directly and properly to the batteries, it allows them to balance much better. 2) AUX power / Smart power - This was something the interested me greatly. It allows you to have a load connected to the inverter and allow it to be powered under certain circumstances (i.e. excess solar can be used to run my Air conditioners) and when these criteria are not met, this load will bypass the inverter and power from grid. Until now, I have been doing this via smart switches and change over relays but it has still be manually actioned by me. This feature works incredibly well but I will only be able to put a rand value onto this as we head into summer Then the unit has a surprise feature which I never understood until I completed the installation. The grid feed to the inverter is bi-directional, which means you can set it to "feed back" to your non-essential load (i.e. oven) without feeding into the grid, if you want... I am still learning about this one and trying to set the parameters to prevent my oven from running off my battery and only excess PV but it is still a great idea if / when needed. Just a note... the Bi-Directional feed does not work during load shedding as it requires a live grid connection for safety reasons but the AUX power can be set to work during load shedding which is fantastic for things like a Microwave or Kettle if not connected to your essential load In an overall opinion... This was a fantastic upgrade which I would highly recommend if the price is right. If you are purchasing new... The Axpert is great if you are on a budget but if you can stretch the extra, the Sunsynk is worth every cent in my opinion Now to cut the offending tree down to resolve the shading issue and then install 3 more panels to max out roof space 🤣

34KWh x 30 days = 1020KWh... If you are using 800KWh per month, which means that on average you have 1KWh per day spare... This would not be enough to keep the batteries fully charged in winter when you take into account a few bad weather days in a row or higher usage days in a row With regards to not being able to run a heater... This in theory would very much depend on what is running through the inverter at that time... If you have a 2KW heater and are already running your 4KW tumble dryer with one other appliance on, there is a good chance that it will need to draw from the grid. The other thing to check is what your max draw current from your batteries is set to. This may have been set low to protect the cabling (for good reason) and therefor you will never be able to pull full load. Please, if this is the case... before changing the setting and burning the house down, make sure that your battery cabling is of sufficient gauge to handle more than your full load over an extended period of time To me, off grid means that you dont need to use the grid (ever)... This is a pie in the sky solutions for many and unaffordable when considering a week of rain or clouds. Awesome that you have got them to change your batteries. It is nice when an installer honours their work

Where are you based? If in Cape Town, perhaps I can help with the way I tested to found the combo. I have a USB to RS485 cable for my battery to ICC / ICM / Solar Assist.... I used a RJ45 wall mount box to a normal crimp to extend this cable and then strand by strand I clipped them until the battery stopped reading in ICM... Reconnected it and then continued to find both A & B cables and confirm that no ground was being used. This confirmed for me that pins 6 & & were used on the battery side. From there I crimped it into pin 1 (from ping 6) and pin 2 (from pin 7) for the inverter side and it worked like a charm on mode 16 (on my Sunsynk). If this is not working, my suggestion would be to try the battery cable to a Pi running one of the mentioned softwares. Confirm that the battery is working. If this is the case, then it would be safe(ish) to rule our battery firmware and then you can concentrate on the inverter side If you are somewhere close by and dont have the cable / Pi we can test with mine

That is soo interesting. I did not know that the RS485 was not a full port and only for Energy Meter Comms... I wonder if that could be changed with a firmware update. So, I have dropped the logger and have the battery on BMS and ICM on RS232... Unfortunately ICM is not working as it should but that I am chatting to them about... Solar Assistant works too but is limited on the info and not as comprehensive. I am also going to ask if either could potentially work on CAN Bus instead What issues are you having with the battery? Did you see I got it working and posted the pin combinations? Can I assist?