Jay-Dee

100%... my other concern is while the inverter is limited, if something goes belly up and it shorts.. I dont want the weakest link to be my battery cables Agree... Think I have found 70mm cable, now just need to see if they will cut and crimp it for me

Thank you. I am aiming for 1x 70mm cable but will make my own 35mm if I dont come right Thanks again

Thank you, really appreciate... I see you are erring on the side of caution with the batteries discharging at 100A each / 200A collectively which is way above my inverter spec. This was my thinking from a safety point too. Thank you for confirming Quick question now... Does it make a difference going for 2x 35mm cables or 1x 70mm ... 35mm is a lot easier to come by and I have the crimper already. 70mm, I need to special order and have made. Any suggestions on where to do so, online or in Cape Town would be great. Thanks in advance.

I am going to be connecting 2x 48v 100AH Lithium Narada batteries in parallel to my system (Axpert King 5K). Can someone recommend what fuse size and cable size I should be looking at?

I have 2x Axpert Parallel cards suitable for both 3K and 5K models Both in box with cables. Purchased them in July 2020 and used for about 2 weeks but decided to upgrade to a larger single inverter instead For sale for R500 for both (paid R1200 for them). Based in Cape Town, happy to arrange courier at your cost if needed

Not trying to hijack the post... if you need 2 parallel cards... I have two which I will post tomorrow - just need to take a picture. Purchased them with the idea of linking 2x Axpert King 3K's but decided to upgrade to one larger unit instead

@msheps... an off topic question... I am about to install a 2nd Narada battery... I see in the manual that you should have a CAN bus resistor on the 2nd battery's open RS485 port but then I have also read that on short distances this is not needed. Do you have on installed? If so, where did you get it? Thanks in advanced

Hi All. I am about to add a 2nd battery to my setup... As you can see from the below picture, this model Narada battery does not have 2 sets of battery connectors to make daisy chaining simple. My question is what is the best wiring practice when connecting the 2nd battery? Do I match the cable length and connect them both to the battery disconnect? Do I cut cables to size and daisy chain off the single set of connectors on the battery? Then when looking at the cabling from the inverter to the disconnect, currently I am running 25mm cable. From reading online, I am seeing that I should be running 35mm cable for 48v 200AH. Would it be better to to run a single 35mm run or double up on the 25mm cable that is already? Thanks in advance P.S. Before anyone asks, the battery has since been lifted off the floor but needs to remain upright to avoid being hit by SWAMBO's car

@JustinSchoeman - I have done exactly this but never calculated the "storage" in terms of kW... I have changed to a 2kW element and heat my geyser to 70 degrees in the afternoon with excess solar.. I dont need to re-heat in the mornings at all unless it is a very cold winters night. Works like a bomb and far more cost effective (for me) than a solar geyser

A good reason why you would want to use a relay I had a 10A QwikSwitch Relay that this has happened to in a minor way with fluorescent tubes with starters over time (pays to read, they specifically advise against fluorescent tubes). As mentioned previously, I have their specific geyser controller and they still recommend a relay... If you element is 9A, you startup power or spike can easily go over 30A. Rather be safe than very very sorry

I change my 4kw element to a 2kw element on a Kwik-Kot 200L geyser. No issues at all, works like a charm and as others have posted... I find it more efficient (somehow) than the 4kw element. Have not seen anyone advise against it... Have a link to the post?

Glad to be an inspiration. Just an item of note... If you are going to put in a relay to move between Eskom and Inverter... make sure your relay is rated accordingly as if you switch with load, there can be a decent spike

The QwikSwitch is a very easy a simple product to install and setup. I have retrofitted their stuff to everything in my hours and have kept building over the last 7 years (lights, pool, watering system, geysers, heater panels, etc) QwikSwitch also have a full Geyser Controller which is similar to the GeyserWise controller (although not as configurable from a temperature vs time perspective). What I have done on my system is install a QwikSwitch relay to drive a relay in my DB that changes a circuit of plugs from Eskom to Inverter. I had it running in my previous setup for over a year without any issues controlling my pool pump & well point as the seasons changed vs solar generation. I have just re-installed it to remove the heavy kitchen plugs (kettle and the likes) while the geyser is running Have a look at the last two posts in the following thread - Let me know if you have any questions

You need to confirm the model of your panels and then find the data sheet online In my case, I have the CS3U-355P panels https://sicessolar.com.br/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/CSI_KuMax_CS3U-345-360-P.pdf As per the data sheet, they have a short circuit AMP rating of 9.67A per panel. In a 2S2P config this would mean that the fuse should ideally be 20A and not higher (to be effective) I would presume a 20A be the best fit for yours too as I doubt you will get an 18A anywhere

You are correct re the 90v / 16A... Not knowing the model, just check the MAX / PEAK current ratings re the fuse... Rather blow fuses than panels.. If your panels are peaking at 8 amp, I would personally go lower than 30A as that is almost double the peak rating. I would sooner look at around a 20A

I have done this.. The Volt meter came from Communica and the combo meters came from ACDC. I cant speak on fuses for the meters. All me meters are installed on the "outside" of the meters & breakers, so it did not occur to me to install dedicated fuses for the meters but I would be interested to hear other's opinions on this.

It is working extremely well.. I run a smart geyser controller (QwikSwitch) which I retrofitted to the geyser a while back. When I was running a 4kW element with the controller, I was heating for about an hour in the mornings and 45 mins in the afternoon again. The controller monitors the temp on the outlet pipe while still keeping the normal thermostat. With the change to the 2kW element, I am allowing the geyser to heat from 1pm to 4pm daily.. I have set the outlet limit to 60 degrees and the thermostat to 70 degrees with the theory of heat as high as possible for free and it will last until the next morning (with 2 showers in the evening and 2 in the morning if needed - 200L geyser) So hot days or 2 shower days, it finishing heating by 3:00 ish and on colder days or 4 hour days it finished just before 4pm and it is always hitting the 70 degree internal cut off before the 60 degree outlet. I have had it in for 2 weeks and the only thing I can "warn" about is to make sure you have no other high consumption draw at the same time. My concern was out cleaner and the kettle, which was the primary reason for the change over switch on that circuit as mentioned above

I have the same motor connected to my inverter (Axpert King 5K) and can confirm it works perfect and draws about 400w.. I cant confirm a spike as if it does it is too short for ICC Monitoring to detect. Based on my wattage and the above in-rush current requirement of 5x, it is unlikely that the 2400va (1440w) model is going to work either but it cant hurt to try if the smaller unit has protection, I would presume large version does too. Also keep in mind that these inverters are modified sine wave and many motors will over heat or not work at all. Sorry I cant be more encouraging

Having run the system in for a little while now, I have tweaked a little. 1 - Changed the geyser from a 4kw element to a 2kw and added it to the inverter. Needed something to take advantage of excess capacity. 2 - Add a changeover relay linked to my home automation to switch one of my kitchen plug circuits from Inverter to Eskom when needed. The idea on the geyser (200L) is to heat it to 60+ degrees in the afternoons, making it last through evening showers with enough heat to cover us in the mornings too The plug circuit is what is used for the kettle, toaster and other high draw appliances that may be plugged in / used at the same time as the geyser or other peak periods. One last light circuit still to be added but I must say, the DB filled up quickly and I thought it was going to be over kill 🤣

I can only help with points 5 and 6... I have updated to 71.93 and see a draw for my single unit at 0.04 from AC main / in and if running on PV, i am see about 100w being used for the inverter ICC and battery comm cable is an absolute must... Really allows you to tweak things and make changes you would never have considered via the inverter (for most people). Perhaps this is the reason, I am not seeing any of the above. One note of difference, I have a Narada battery not Pylon personally but have a Pylon at my parents also with 71.93 with no issues

@Barryv.... you can have a look at my install here via the link below... If you have any question... fire away

Axpert King 5K

I had this argument with my original installer as they were insistent that 3 in series would be fine as at 39.4v per panel, this was MAX and it would not be an issue totalling 118.2 as the max on the inverter was 145v. From this forum... I can confirm, DO NOT go above 115v as the inverter will start limiting and clipping your production resulting in serious wastage, MPPT freezing and potentially inverter / MPPT damage long term. I initially had 4 panel configured in 2S2P which hit 80v almost every single day (i.e. slightly higher than rated). I have since expanded to 2S6P and still hit 80v almost every 80v during peak times. This config works very very well, great production and seems to be tolerant of partial shading. I am glad I never listened to the original installer re 3S configure and stuck to my guns re 2S config Good luck with the expansion

Yes it is supported on ICC... You just need to purchase the cable from them (likewise with the Pylontec) The Pylontec shows you more info in ICC than the Narada but the main thing is the actual SOC for control. The Pylontec as a separate page with additional info above the SOC and Cycle Count. Having looked into this, it is an ICC programming short coming and not the battery. I know Manie is working on a completely new program, so hopefully this will have more details displayed. If I had to purchase again, I would go Narada... I am very very impressed with the battery and value

So I have both batteries installed at two different locations.. I installed the US 3000 at my parents house in February and the Narada personally at my house about 3 weeks ago. I originally went with the Pylontec as it was the known brand and linked to the Axpert King and ICC perfectly. The battery has not given any issues and performed exactly as expected. I chose the Narada for myself personally as I learnt the communication to the Inverter is useless if you have ICC with the battery linked (Narada is supported to) so I elected to have the larger capacity for the same price. Originally I did not consider the Narada for my parents as the Pylontec seemed to be more popular but it turns out that there are plenty of people with the Naradas too 2 things to keep in mind 1 - The Pylontec will require a cable kit as it does not come with the required cables to connect to the inverter 2 - The Narada is 5u in size vs the Pylontec is 4u - if you are looking to rack mount Either way, you are purchasing a great battery...