Rooney Hat

Their is only one firmware for a battery. The zip file contains firmware for different versions of a battery and batteryview selects the correct firmware. This is because the actual bms was changed due to a shortage of chips. Their is not firmware for the bms and firmware for the battery.

I read this on an other forum and just want to share here also.
Hi everyone,
Below are the latest firmware according to my supplier.
I think Jaco above mentioned. us_c_v.7_Crc to be used for US2000c and US3000c. However my supplier told me that the v2.7 is not formally been release to public yet. So I don’t know if it works or not. My supplier updated my US2000c’s with V2.6 as below attached.
us_c_v2.6_Crc.bin (224 KB)
For US2000b plus the below is apparently the updated version. I think Jaco also provided that in the previous chat.
us2000B_Plus_V3.4_Crc.bin (201 KB)
And finally here is the firmware latest version for US3000a batteries.
us3000a_V3.4_Crc.bin (214 KB)
I was also given the latest battery view software:
BatteryView_us2000b_series_3.0.28
Unfortunately I cannot share it on this page but If anyone is interested let me know and I will put it on Dropbox or somewhere for you to pick up.
I hope this help and if I have duplicated anything I apologies.
I also would like to share my experience regarding the firmware upgrade on my 3 new US2000c’s
I just replaced my US2000b Plus batteries with US2000c as 1 of the b+ batteries had a bad cell and the other one’s SOC will not go higher than 69%. I also decided to purchase another one so I can have 4 in my stack. There were no issues from Pylontech to replace them however the b and b+ batteries have been discontinued. Hence they replaced it with US2000c…(I think they have been discontinued for a while now.)
I brought my first US2000c home and before I installed it thought I would update the firmware first. The update stopped at 80% and the battery was dead. I could not start it up again . There was no voltage on the terminals. DEAD!!!
I took it back to the supplier asked them to check it out. After a long struggle the technician could also not get it started either. He tried everything to get it started again with no luck. He ended up changing the BMS board as per instructions from Pylontech. He replaced the board with a US3000c board. There after it worked fine and he could upgrade to the latest Firmware.
Now I thought this might just be a isolated instance but it was not, I replaced the other one this morning and purchased another one. While I was there I asked the technician to also update the firmware on the 2 new ones as well. However both of them gave exactly the same issue what I picked up. Luckily this time it happened to him and not me… He ended up changing those 2 BMS boards as well.
Personally I think there might be a problem with the BMS boards on the US2000c range that I received.
The batteries also did not have the same serial numbers as the old ones. The US2000b plus batteries started with PPTBH… but the new ones I received started with H21C… Not sure if this has any relevance but 3 brand new batteries gave exactly the same issue.
Just though I would share this info with you.
I would suggest when you do buy new US2000c batteries to let your supplier update the firmware for you. Just my suggestion

New Firmware for US3000C. Version 2.2.
us_c_v2.2_Crc.bin

I'm pretty sure the firmware for the TL and ES are very different as they are totally different types.

TL can be found here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/12ttv9oCoC2rowUPDdsjfs0P4fz9DuSVt
 

I'm pretty sure the firmware for the TL and ES are very different as they are totally different types.

TL can be found here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/12ttv9oCoC2rowUPDdsjfs0P4fz9DuSVt
 

Hello Power People, 
I'm posting this here to hopefully save anyone in a similar situation a lot of headache and possibly an inverter. 
I recently installed a Growatt SPF5000TL inverter and a Pylontech US3000C battery. From what I could research on this forum, firmware updates were required to get the BMS communications established. So, I got the firmware and commenced the updates. It broke my inverter! It would not turn on after the 2nd update. Luckily it was still under a warranty and the supplier swapped out the unit. 
I was really not comfortable with doing a firmware update on the new inverter, so I found some more information with regards to the cable and managed to get the BMS communicating WITHOUT DOING ANY FIRMWARE UPDATES. So, if you would like to get the inverter and battery communication, follow these  steps.
1. If you are unable to make your own CAT6 network cable, go to your local computer shop and ask them to make one up for you. 
2. The cable only requires 3 wired contactors. Refer to picture below:

3. Invert the the wires on either end of the cable connections. It doesn't matter what the colours are, as long as they are inverted in order and pin location.  
4. Turn the battery off. and set your Baud rate to 9600. Dipswitches 1 0 0 0 (1-ON 2-OFF 3-OFF 4-OFF)
5. Connect the end with contactors 6, 7 & 8 wired to the battery RJ45 port. Then connect the end with contactors 1, 2 & 3 wired into the BMS port of the inverter. 
6. Turn the battery on and inverter back on. 
7. Go to setting 5 and select Li with protocol 04. Make sure it is set, then press escape and it should start communicating after a few seconds.
8. If it doesn't work immediately, turn the battery off on the red SW switch and then the main switch then turn the inverter off. Wait 30s and turn back on starting at the battery. 
9. To verify that it is communicating, got to setting 12, 13 & 21. These will now be displayed as percentages and no longer voltage. You will also see a Li display next to the battery on permanently. 
 
I really hope this is able to help someone out there. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. 
Neil
  

You Legend, thanks!

Yup, totally agree, hate hitting batteries with heavy loads. They just offset what solar can't carry during the day 12pm to 2pm, So unless we have 0 sun, and the batteries have somehow gotten back up at 54v, it will use Eskom on those days.

Just wanted to be sure because I am having issues with my AGM batteries, 4 faulty in the past year. (Voltage off causing the combined voltages to drop)
Just re-crimped all my cables again, confirmed equal cable length and have ordered a HA02 battery balancer. So hopefully it doesn't happen again... getting tired of lugging these 60kg batteries back to the supplier.

Just depends on what you're trying to achieve really. Low as possible is 5% with 6000 cycles on the US3000C. But will take longer to charge up during the day.
If you want to use as little of Eskom as possible, you'll want to deplete your batteries as low as you can, factoring in if you want to have a little bit in reserve in case of late night load shedding. Then, Depending on daytime load and panels, you can set your inverter to go back to solar/battery as soon as the panels can handle the load and charge your batteries. Finding out what SOC level that is will just take testing.

Unfortunately not:(
cant find much detail on that device, but have a feeling it’s a RS485-serial/usb converter. So might “talk” to your axpert, but the intelligence comes from the bms side- and doubt the said bms will have the same level of detail to feed and control the inverter.
There is no quick fix or easy way to fake “can/rs485” comms unfortunately. It is Very complicated to get right- the reason so much money is spent on certification for any specific brand of battery to be compatibly with the different inverter brands. The guys building batteries will tell you the same- it’s months and months of work/coding/testing etc
If you want to future proof- get rid of the axpert, Buy something decent like a 5 or 8kW sunsynk/deye (full hybrid inverter) - and start with a battery like the am-2 hubble or similar..
efficiencies of hybrids vs - lets be honest and call the axperts what they are : “cheap and nasty” - is a long other topic….  Of course this all costs money- but if you look at backup power as a requirement for the next couple of years, rather invest in the correct kit now that will last 5-10years, have 5 & 10 Y guarantees- for  30% more upfront - or go as cheap as you can and in 2 years have to replace it all again…
Whats that saying “goedkoop koop
Is duur koop” - thats why these forums exist I suppose- for free advice from users who's already done it all (a few times)
 
 
 

Hey @Rooney Hat thanks for chiming in. I got help from someone on this forum and I'm currently using the settings indicated in a previous post (quoted above)

Late to the party, not sure if anyone has replied on this. But you should not be using AGM settings for these batteries. AGMs charging and float voltages are way higher than Lithium. I believe the max you should be using is 53.2v float and charge. So it will likely be USE setting.

Totally agree, I started from scratch during lockdown and did everything myself with 0 knowledge, If it wasn't for the guys on this forum, I'd be lost