Hi,  I have been offgrid for some years, but have now moved into a small house which has an Eskom supply.  I am not used to loadshedding, so it is really pissing me off at this stage and i want to wire up my Axpert.  It is a model SOL-1-AX 3MPlus48 and is sufficient to run all my loads, so don't particularly want to split my circuits.  At this stage, I will not be installing my panels until i can make space for them, so want to rely on utility to charge my batteries (SLA).  I would like to get all the necessary breakers, switches and whatever else is required to do a proper installation, and then wire everything up ready for a sparky to make the final connection to the DB.

Could someone please point me in the right direction to a simple wiring diagram so I can see how it is done?  Thanks in advance, Peter 

20 hours ago, dax021 said:

Hi,  I have been offgrid for some years, but have now moved into a small house which has an Eskom supply.  I am not used to loadshedding, so it is really pissing me off at this stage and i want to wire up my Axpert.  It is a model SOL-1-AX 3MPlus48 and is sufficient to run all my loads, so don't particularly want to split my circuits.  At this stage, I will not be installing my panels until i can make space for them, so want to rely on utility to charge my batteries (SLA).  I would like to get all the necessary breakers, switches and whatever else is required to do a proper installation, and then wire everything up ready for a sparky to make the final connection to the DB.

Could someone please point me in the right direction to a simple wiring diagram so I can see how it is done?  Thanks in advance, Peter 

Some questions before attempting to give details.

1.   Must the Axpert provide power at all times to the whole house with or without Eskom on. Axpert can be used as a UPS without interruptions.

2.   Can you live with using a change over switch manual or must if be an auto change over from Eskom to Axpert.

3.   Are you aware that you will only be able to use about 75% of the Eskom power you buy on the load side of the Axpert due to your battery type?

Hi Scorp, thanks for the reply. 

1. Yes, i would like the Axpert to supply all the power to the whole house all the time.  My biggest "constant" load is the fridge which draws about 90W.  I occasionally use a microwave and electric kettle, but will revert back to a gas kettle if this becomes a problem

2. Manual changeover switch quite adequate

3. Don't quite understand this statement, but at present my Eskom bill is <R100/month.  My batteries are way past their sell by date 170Ah SLA's.  They have been rather abused already, so don't mind raping them (only paid R500 ea a few years ago)

15 hours ago, dax021 said:

Hi Scorp, thanks for the reply. 

1. Yes, i would like the Axpert to supply all the power to the whole house all the time.  My biggest "constant" load is the fridge which draws about 90W.  I occasionally use a microwave and electric kettle, but will revert back to a gas kettle if this becomes a problem

2. Manual changeover switch quite adequate

3. Don't quite understand this statement, but at present my Eskom bill is <R100/month.  My batteries are way past their sell by date 170Ah SLA's.  They have been rather abused already, so don't mind raping them (only paid R500 ea a few years ago)

Here is my proposal. Charge batteries full and switch off inverter in DB until needed during LS. Switch inverter and DB on to charge batteries after LS event or once a week when no LS(wishful thinking) This will save 600Wh a day vs keeping it on and in ready mode.

Switch transfer to inverter when having LS. The whole DB is now running on E/Leakage and all loads connected to inverter. I see most people opt for the big frame size 63A transfer but I would use the cheaper 40A unit taking up 2 spaces.

Below is my circuit for the above. Self manage what big loads you can isolate on the DB.

Please ask if I missed out something.

Hey Scorp, you're a superstar.  That's exactly the kind of answer I was looking for.  Thanks a million.

 

Hi Scorp007 ----  In the drawing above, it shows the EARTH bar and Neutral in the DB. Is that a separate Earth and Neutral bar or the existing ones where the house is currently wired to.

I also connected my Axpert Inverter to my house DB and I wired the Earth wire output into the existing Earth bar in the DB to connect it to all other Earths [Common].

The Neutral bar is not connected to other Neutrals of the house, otherwise the Earth Leakage trips. The Neutral and Live output from the inverter is dedicated to the plugs the inverter carries and do not touch any other wires in the DB.   Just want to make sure I understand how you did yours ?

On 2022/10/28 at 10:42 PM, PeterW102 said:

Hi Scorp007 ----  In the drawing above, it shows the EARTH bar and Neutral in the DB. Is that a separate Earth and Neutral bar or the existing ones where the house is currently wired to.

I also connected my Axpert Inverter to my house DB and I wired the Earth wire output into the existing Earth bar in the DB to connect it to all other Earths [Common].

The Neutral bar is not connected to other Neutrals of the house, otherwise the Earth Leakage trips. The Neutral and Live output from the inverter is dedicated to the plugs the inverter carries and do not touch any other wires in the DB.   Just want to make sure I understand how you did yours ?

As Dax021 wanted his whole house on the inverter it means the inverter connects to the house DB neutral and earth bar. The inverter supply goes via the transf switch. This means one does not have to switch the main switch off. You never want to connect the inverter neutral to the grid neutral. Then on the other hand you want all earth connections to go to a good earth and here one assumes the grid earth is good otherwise one must add a earth spike. Earth is the life saver in case of any fault or lightning strike.

In your case you can have a seperate E/L connected to the inverter output that feeds the lights and dedicated plugs. The other circuits in the DB will be fed via the main E/L. The AC input to the inverter does not come from a E/L supply as it will cause unwanted tripping.

Edited November 26, 20223 yr by Scorp007

Just want to say thanks to Scorp007 for his advice.  I wired my DB exactly as he recommended and system is working perfectly.  So lekker to finally be done with loadshedding.   Next step is to connect my panels for the extra savings.

9 hours ago, dax021 said:

Just want to say thanks to Scorp007 for his advice.  I wired my DB exactly as he recommended and system is working perfectly.  So lekker to finally be done with loadshedding.   Next step is to connect my panels for the extra savings.

Just a pleasure. Glad to hear all is working as I thought it would. There is always a chance of one missing something. Enjoy it.

On 2022/10/25 at 10:21 AM, Scorp007 said:

Here is my proposal. Charge batteries full and switch off inverter in DB until needed during LS. Switch inverter and DB on to charge batteries after LS event or once a week when no LS(wishful thinking) This will save 600Wh a day vs keeping it on and in ready mode.

Switch transfer to inverter when having LS. The whole DB is now running on E/Leakage and all loads connected to inverter. I see most people opt for the big frame size 63A transfer but I would use the cheaper 40A unit taking up 2 spaces.

Below is my circuit for the above. Self manage what big loads you can isolate on the DB.

Please ask if I missed out something.

@Scorp007If your changeover is rated at 40a only, then you need a 40a breaker to protect it from overload, as the Eskom mains is usually 60a?

4 hours ago, Lee2 said:

@Scorp007If your changeover is rated at 40a only, then you need a 40a breaker to protect it from overload, as the Eskom mains is usually 60a?

If you wish yes. The inverter can only provide 13A 230V running on bypass or on battery and is fitted with its own thermal hand reset overload. I view the 40A as fit for purpose. The input has already a 16A circuit breaker.

Bear in mind that because you have a 63A main switch there are many munic proving a 40A supply and you have to request an upgrade to 63A.

I do stand to be corrected if there is a risk on my selection. It was just a guidance.

Edited November 28, 20223 yr by Scorp007

My mains breaker is only 30A

2 hours ago, dax021 said:

My mains breaker is only 30A

What a coincidence. My inverter is connected to a sub DB and I power it via my 3kw Axpert in the same way as you. I switch off my heat pump when running on the inverter unless I have to heat the geyser. Now and again I use either battery or battery while having PV.

I have not tripped my 30A main CB even while using 2x2000W induction plates, Air fryer and convection oven as well as micro and kettle. We use whatever gadget we want to use while we have grid.

On 2022/11/28 at 4:00 PM, Scorp007 said:

If you wish yes. The inverter can only provide 13A 230V running on bypass or on battery and is fitted with its own thermal hand reset overload. I view the 40A as fit for purpose. The input has already a 16A circuit breaker.

Bear in mind that because you have a 63A main switch there are many munic proving a 40A supply and you have to request an upgrade to 63A.

I do stand to be corrected if there is a risk on my selection. It was just a guidance.

I think I also only have a 40a supply as my mains is only 10mm2. I agree with what you saying but it is best to cross your t's and dot your i's, for compliance and future proofing, eg. you may rent out your place one day and the tenant is not quite as power conscious. Also rework is expensive.

In this case it seems to have worked out brilliantly 

Edited November 30, 20223 yr by Lee2

I have been living totally offgrid for the last 7 years, prior to moving into this place, so I am pretty adept at managing loads.  At the expense of causing a riot on this forum, I say f**k COC. I tried for more than a month to get a sparky to come and connect everything for me, but never even got a reply from the ones I called, messaged and Whatsapped.  In the end, I completely rewired my DB using common sense and the advice I received from here, and IMHO, it is in a much better condition than whoever wired it before left it.  I have full confidence that it is safer now than it was before.  I am renting and if I ever move, I will simply remove all my equipment and wire the DB back to (better) than original.  Please don't report me to the relevant authorities 😬