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MKS II 5kva 52 error

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  • YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSS! THIS IS IT!   On two boards for sure! The track was damaged in approximately the same place!   The second inverter is now working! Tomorrow I will

  • Are you sure your battery is well charged. After a step load over 3kW it could be low  and disconnect battery level. Keep the battery voltage indication open when adding loads. 

  • The Solar Charge Controller is a boost converter. So it's the SCC that does this voltage boosting. But you've replaced the SCC, so it must be that the SCC isn't being told to boost. The gate driving f

Posted Images

1 hour ago, Abra said:

I ordered this one,

Huh, I've never seen that before. The solder resist is what seems to be coming off (as well as the white "silk screen" writing above it).  It seems like that should work, though it seems more suited for small area repairs rather than spraying a large area.

  • Author

 

On the SCC board, this pin leads to the transistor driver board.

First like this:

image.thumb.png.83acdade31e62238532cabf0e5fce16e.png

 

And then on the transistor driver board right here: (This is an SCC board from a freshly opened inverter, I haven't had time to clean it from dust yet :))

image.thumb.jpeg.41bc5de367b12578edd8ebe193037862.jpeg

11 minutes ago, Abra said:

On the control board, this pin goes to this resistor:

Err, I assumed that we were talking about pins 1-8 of CN9, which plugs directly into the main board. The control boards I'm familiar with don't even have an 8-pin connector near the JTAG connector. Where does this 8-pin socket connect to?

Edit: Duh! You answer that with your next post. Sigh.

So that's the connection to the Solar Charge Controller (high voltage PV version). A circuit that I'm not familiar with, and have no schematic traces for.

Edited by Coulomb

  • Author
2 minutes ago, Coulomb said:

Err, I assumed that we were talking about pins 1-8 of CN9, which plugs directly into the main board. The control boards I'm familiar with don't even have an 8-pin connector near the JTAG connector. Where does this 8-pin socket connect to?

image.thumb.jpeg.9698f36e639a64d58662b97ab7a7103d.jpeg

OK, so that leads to the SCC's daughter board, which I assume is the gate driver circuit.

The fact that measuring it seems to disturb charging suggests that it's electrically as weak as a kitten. Assuming that it's the PWM signal from the DSP, hope that there is some circuit between the DSP and the connector that is faulty, or trackwork. My guess is that it's just R183, so either that resistor is high resistance, or more likely, some of that track is corroded and has gone high resistance, or possibly intermittent. There might be a micro-crack in the PCB track, and pushing a multimeter probe on the connector might be enough to open circuit the track. So use "can of cold" and/or a hair drier (etc) to see if you can reliably detect a change in reisistance/conductivity. Perhaps also gentle flexing of the control board on the bench, unpowered. Consider soldering short wires to each end, so you can attach a multimeter with beeper so that you have two free hands to apply pressure, hot, cold, etc.

If the DSP itself is faulty, you will be in for a world of pain, firstly replacing the chip, fixing all the inevitable adjacent pin shorts, but then finding a suitable bootloader (I likely don't have one), and figuring out how to JTAG in new firmware. Or trying to obtain an exact replacement control board, which will have the bootloader in it, but when there are fifty variations on the control board that all look much the same.

Good luck, you seem to be getting closer now.

  • Author

Measurements show ~100 ohms from pin 6 on the control board, to the 2nd pin of R183, i.e. track + resistance on the control board show a total of ~ 100 ohms.

 

image.thumb.png.6a0d8c8e8f670b13d7c217a94f2fb5ad.png

So that's a 100Ω resistor. Is the measurement a steady 99.4 or whatever ohms, or does it fluctuate with temperature or flexing? Or even fluctuate 98-102 ohms as you measure it? You may need to solder wires to be sure, as the conformal coating can be a beast to penetrate reliably. It is best to respray the board after you break the coating, of course, when all is repaired.

Perhaps you could use an oscilloscope to observe one or both sides of that resistor while operating. But beware of ground problems! The control board "ground" will have 300+ V square waves with respect to earth!! You may have to use two channels, and subtract. The low 50 Hz square wave should not disturb the measurement of the much higher frequency PWM signal.

3 minutes ago, Abra said:

Before resistance, the tracks lead here:

...

All tracks and resistance on the control board are fine...

That's bad news. It seems that the DSP may be faulty. But replacing it will be so difficult that it will be well worth convincing yourself that this is the case. There may for example be an intermittent short circuit at the SCC end.

Edit: But do both control boards exhibit the same faulty behaviour?

Edited by Coulomb

  • Author

So, I made a mistake, and checked the wrong contact on the Control Board. I found the right contact and found the break in the track! Now I'll try to fix it.

I pried the paint off with a feeler gauge and under it like this.

image.thumb.png.c72d861ce6ac473a347d2e2c1ea4861b.png

  • Author

YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSS! THIS IS IT!

 

On two boards for sure! The track was damaged in approximately the same place!

 

The second inverter is now working!

Tomorrow I will check the tracks on all the boards and connect them with a wire!

 

I checked with a tester. Firstly, charging does not stop when checking, and secondly, it now shows 18.9v.

Edited by Abra

  • Author

The result of my crooked hand soldering. At first I tried to join with tin, but then I realized that I had crooked hands and joined with two twisted strands of wire.

I'll clean up the soldering dirt later when I check the rest of the tracks and then paint over with a protective layer when it comes to me.

In the near future I will finish everything, check if everything works well and try to give a detailed description of the breakdown, how to check and where to fix it. Perhaps someone will come in handy.

 

image.thumb.png.2424f8cd55c199610f3de39ab79416d4.png

46 minutes ago, Abra said:

YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSS! THIS IS IT!

 

On two boards for sure! The track was damaged in approximately the same place!

 

The second inverter is now working!

Tomorrow I will check the tracks on all the boards and connect them with a wire!

 

I checked with a tester. Firstly, charging does not stop when checking, and secondly, it now shows 18.9v.

Congratulations @Abra your perseverance and  patience noted👍

4 hours ago, Abra said:

On two boards for sure! The track was damaged in approximately the same place!

Congratulations. With two damaged in about the same place, it might actually be a manufacturing fault.

Or it might be that you live near a sulphuric acid factory 😮

  • Author

Thanks to everyone for pointing me in the right direction, it remains to check all the boards in these areas and repair the damage.

The topic started as error 52 but then grew into something more.

All in all. The post concerns 5kW Axpert, MKS II, etc. and Warning 15!, problems with the screen, control buttons (On one control board, the screen began to fail, the button connector is also nearby), the problem of current flow from the PV to charge or output.

In the design of my inverter, I think not only mine, the upper left air duct, or rather its lower part, is directed to the upper part of the control board. Where are a lot of important components and connectors located:

photo_2023-01-14_09-48-03.thumb.jpg.0c8cc40ded6d5d754f0c0f41708c40ac.jpgphoto_2023-01-14_09-48-04.thumb.jpg.19cf7f2f2a6330a19210dcabfe5aa8e0.jpg

 

When working outdoors or in a dusty room, and this is especially unpleasant in combination with increased humidity, a very thick layer of dust accumulates over time on the top of the control board. I have accumulated a layer of about one millimeter, unfortunately I did not take a photo. Also, due to high humidity, especially in the morning, this dust eventually corrodes the protective layer of the board and the tracks that go very close to each other are exposed. Subsequently, if I understand correctly, this can lead to short circuits and burnouts or the decay of some parts of the tracks.

In my case, after cleaning the board from swollen paint, the board looked like this:

image.thumb.jpeg.be6e4f63e90de0e3f29c95bbf2b897d3.jpeg

The main problem was this track, on 2 boards it was damaged in the place marked with a blue circle, on another it was damaged in several places, including in the place marked with a blue circle:

image.thumb.jpeg.e1b47023562d12e72b67e9077030cbe3.jpeg

I also think it is necessary to check all the tracks for integrity before the end of the repair.

As for preventing such destruction, I will block off part of the duct so that dust does not accumulate in this place, but flies higher.

 

p.s. My problem and repair for one of the boards looked something like this. It's not that hard, even for a clumsy newbie like me:

photo_2023-01-14_10-14-43.thumb.jpg.1f6616718c1c0b97d5e79648ae6f1122.jpgphoto_2023-01-14_10-14-34.thumb.jpg.a2d8f6654e0405e14474fc9195af0718.jpgphoto_2023-01-14_10-14-39.thumb.jpg.652714b5515788d7a69ee7905033cabc.jpg

Edited by Abra

  • Author
12 hours ago, Coulomb said:

Congratulations. With two damaged in about the same place, it might actually be a manufacturing fault.

Or it might be that you live near a sulphuric acid factory 😮

Aaaaaand one moment. Problem with Charging from PV and AC still there :) But I think it will be more easier :)

On 2022/12/19 at 1:57 PM, Abra said:

input AC to output AC working well
input AC to batteries not working
input solar to output AC not working
input solar to batteries not working
batteries to output AC working well

Now it chaged to:

input AC to output AC working well
input AC to batteries not working
input solar to output AC working well
input solar to batteries not working
batteries to output AC working well

 

  So, need to check again this? :)

On 2022/12/19 at 3:17 PM, Coulomb said:

If it wasn't for the above, I'd suspect the buck transistor and its associated gate drivers. In your model, it is involved with all battery charging.

It's probably worth checking anyway.

 

  • 1 year later...
On 2022/12/16 at 9:05 AM, Abra said:

Hello.

There is a problem. There is a 5 kW inverter. Recently burned transistors and several resistors. I have already replaced them. But now there is another problem in the form of error 52.

It appears when running on batteries.

Step by step:
1 - I run the inverter on batteries only.
2 - I connect the load and increase it step by step.
(I used an ordinary household hair dryer up to 2 kW as a load, 4 steps ~ 100 watts, ~ 300 watts, ~ 700 watts, ~ 2 kW)

Result:
At 100 and 300 watts everything is normal.
At 700 watts, the inverter runs for another 30 seconds, then crashes with error 52.
At 2000 watts, the inverter immediately crashes.

Tell me what, where and how exactly to check? I'm a beginner to say the least.

When working for example from a grid, there are no such problems.

After dessert
I have a 3kg device and it has a problem like the device you are working on. It has less than 300 watts and it works, and when the load increases, error #52 appears.
When a load is greater than 1000 watts, some mosfet malfunctions
Please reply how can I fix this problem
8 hours ago, mohammed ead azzam said:

I have a 3kg device

I assume you mean a 24 V, 3 kW model.

Quote

and it has a problem like the device you are working on. It has less than 300 watts and it works, and when the load increases, error #52 appears. When a load is greater than 1000 watts, some mosfet malfunctions Please reply how can I fix this problem

Since your problem seems to be similar to Abra's, my advice would be the same, i.e. check all the gate drivers for the MOSFETs, the DC-DC IGBTs, and the buck converter.

My earlier post.

  • 2 months later...

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