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Axpert VMII 57 Fault and 09 Fault Repair Help Needed

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Hello there is an inverter Axpert VMII, when it is only given source as battery only, it outputs  09 fault without any load connected. And when We give it battery plus Solar Panels input simultaneously it give 57 Error. Please help me to solve it. I know how to solve fault 09 but don't know how to solve 57 fault.

 

Thanks.

Edited by tanveerhabib

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  • tanveerhabib
    tanveerhabib

    Hello, I have gone through this manual which you have shared and the inverter which I am repairing is exactly the same, I am attaching an image from the same tutorial, and I have marked a part which i

  • BritishRacingGreen
    BritishRacingGreen

    Below is a trace for a MAX7.2 (OG7.2) , your machine will have the same circuit , and you may even have the same component enumeration , but please check against your board , especially if you decide

  • tanveerhabib
    tanveerhabib

    In the above manual there is one 100 ohm resistors before zd 12 and zd6 and there is another 100 ohm resistor before zd 20 and zd 21 but the schematic which you shared here https://forums.aeva.asn.au/

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  • Author
18 hours ago, Coulomb said:

Fault code 57 seems to be "current sensor failed". So check around the current sensor.

It might be better to fix the fault code 09 first, though I guess that they could be related.

I also think may be they are related, but can you give me service manual related to the current sensor parts trouble shooting. thank you.

On this very forum:

 

Unfortunately, there is no explicit mention of fault code 57 in the index of the AEVA Axpert repair topic, though there may be some throughout the topic.

From a Google search: https://sakopower.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/How-to-check-error-code-57.pdf

Also https://forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php?p=68098#p68098 and many more.

See also the partial schematic trace for a similar but not identical model here.

 

 

 

  • Author
17 hours ago, Coulomb said:

On this very forum:

 

 

 

 

 

Hello, I have gone through this manual which you have shared and the inverter which I am repairing is exactly the same, I am attaching an image from the same tutorial, and I have marked a part which is of green colour which is totally blown out, I think may be the error 57 is because of it, and can you tell me what is it?

New Bitmap image.bmp

Edited by tanveerhabib

My guess is that it's F5 from the AC power supply. Does that fit with the other components?

image.png.c184f724b64ab375a3e389e5494418ea.png

They specify a 125 V part, which is obviously wrong. It should be rated at 250 VAC. But since it blew, probably something else blew to take it out. So check REC1 (a diode bridge), Q15, and if Q15 is shorted, check the driver resistors. Keep in mind that Q15 shorting could also take out the oscillator chip, U6.

Unfortunately, this doesn't seem to be related to the current sensor. It's possible that the AC power supply failed long ago, and you never noticed it, always using battery or solar power to power the electronics.

  • Author
16 hours ago, Coulomb said:

My guess is that it's F5 from the AC power supply. Does that fit with the other components?

 

They specify a 125 V part, which is obviously wrong. It should be rated at 250 VAC. But since it blew, probably something else blew to take it out. So check REC1 (a diode bridge), Q15, and if Q15 is shorted, check the driver resistors. Keep in mind that Q15 shorting could also take out the oscillator chip, U6.

Unfortunately, this doesn't seem to be related to the current sensor. It's possible that the AC power supply failed long ago, and you never noticed it, always using battery or solar power to power the electronics.

Yes you are right, the Q15 is shorted and the U6 pin 5 and 6 as well as pin 5 and 7 are showing less ohm instead of the value mentioned in the manual. the customer has said that it was due to some lighting at night or due to the high voltage surge in from the line mode.

Edited by tanveerhabib

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

 

On 2023/06/30 at 8:28 PM, Coulomb said:

Fault code 57 seems to be "current sensor failed". So check around the current sensor.

It might be better to fix the fault code 09 first, though I guess that they could be related.

Hello, I have repaired the inverter and fault 09 and 57 have gone away, but now after 10 seconds of powering on the inverter on battery mode without line mode and with no load attached, it throws error 08. What can be the problem. thank you..

Edited by tanveerhabib

It could be that the bus soft start power supply isn't turning off, perhaps because the DC bus voltage isn't being read correctly by the DSP.

It might also be caused by some problem with the solar charger. Consider temporarily disconnecting it, but if you do, disconnect it completely (including battery voltage), as someone reported blowing up their solar charger power semiconductors by only disconnecting the DC bus connection.

  • Author
40 minutes ago, Coulomb said:

It could be that the bus soft start power supply isn't turning off, perhaps because the DC bus voltage isn't being read correctly by the DSP.

It might also be caused by some problem with the solar charger. Consider temporarily disconnecting it, but if you do, disconnect it completely (including battery voltage), as someone reported blowing up their solar charger power semiconductors by only disconnecting the DC bus connection.

Hello, thank you for your reply, The solar is not connect only the batteries are connected, how to check the soft start power supply and its components, and where are they located on board. thank you.

9 hours ago, tanveerhabib said:

The solar is not connect only the batteries are connected,

It might be possible that a fault still causes trouble.

9 hours ago, tanveerhabib said:

how to check the soft start power supply and its components, and where are they located on board.

Check for a square wave output of the associated chip that drives the gate.

As for where it is, I don't have any decent close-up photos of the VM II main board. But you will be looking for three components somewhat close to the bus capacitors: a transformer, MOSFET (probably the only one with no heat-sink), and a TO-220 (2 pin) diode:

image.thumb.png.62dc9e2eda7222e66df38770bb0ebc81.png

This is someone else's photo of a non-VM II board. The bus capacitors are at the bottom; they are the largest capacitors on the main board, and there are usually two of them near each other. In the red rectangle is the high voltage diode; it often doesn't have a heat-sink also.

Watch the bus voltage with a multimeter (be very careful) as the inverter starts up, while also watching the oscillator chip's output, if possible on a oscilloscope. The output should stop when the bus voltage reaches some 340 V (the exact voltage it aims for depends on several things).

  • Author
10 hours ago, Coulomb said:

It might be possible that a fault still causes trouble.

Check for a square wave output of the associated chip that drives the gate.

As for where it is, I don't have any decent close-up photos of the VM II main board. But you will be looking for three components somewhat close to the bus capacitors: a transformer, MOSFET (probably the only one with no heat-sink), and a TO-220 (2 pin) diode:

image.thumb.png.62dc9e2eda7222e66df38770bb0ebc81.png

This is someone else's photo of a non-VM II board. The bus capacitors are at the bottom; they are the largest capacitors on the main board, and there are usually two of them near each other. In the red rectangle is the high voltage diode; it often doesn't have a heat-sink also.

Watch the bus voltage with a multimeter (be very careful) as the inverter starts up, while also watching the oscillator chip's output, if possible on a oscilloscope. The output should stop when the bus voltage reaches some 340 V (the exact voltage it aims for depends on several things).

This is the image of the board which part are you talking about.

thank you..

 

 

WhatsApp Image 2023-07-23 at 3.36.31 PM.jpeg

This might be it:

image.png.4d4299c973ecfc393f3523f3d51fc1fa.png

I see a plus sign near the TO-220 highlighted at the top; Voltronic like to indicate the anode of diodes with a plus sign. The lower highlighted transistor might be the bus soft start transistor, though it seems a bit too small. The transformer between them might be the bus soft start transformer, but it seems a little too big.

It might also be off to the left where your photo cuts off a bit.

Edit: So can you confirm that the upper highlighted part is a diode, and is connected to the transformer to its left, and to bus positive to the right? BUS+ is the positive end of the two large capacitors, and there is a red wire leading off to the solar charger labelled BUS+ or similar.

Edited by Coulomb

  • Author
On 2023/06/30 at 8:28 PM, Coulomb said:

Fault code 57 seems to be "current sensor failed". So check around the current sensor.

It might be better to fix the fault code 09 first, though I guess that they could be related.

 

3 hours ago, Coulomb said:

This might be it:

image.png.4d4299c973ecfc393f3523f3d51fc1fa.png

I see a plus sign near the TO-220 highlighted at the top; Voltronic like to indicate the anode of diodes with a plus sign. The lower highlighted transistor might be the bus soft start transistor, though it seems a bit too small. The transformer between them might be the bus soft start transformer, but it seems a little too big.

It might also be off to the left where your photo cuts off a bit.

Edit: So can you confirm that the upper highlighted part is a diode, and is connected to the transformer to its left, and to bus positive to the right? BUS+ is the positive end of the two large capacitors, and there is a red wire leading off to the solar charger labelled BUS+ or similar.

 

Yes thats correct it is the same diode which you are mentioning, and I have checked both your mentioned components both are good.

  • Author
On 2023/07/02 at 8:07 AM, Coulomb said:

On this very forum:

 

 

 

You have attached this file in this post, and the same inverter is what I am repairing, in this manual below I have attached a screenshot having one Q64  and U15. In the manual it is mentioned that Q64 must have the following values 

VBE= 0.634V REF

VBC=0.625V REF

VCE=0.839V REF

When I measured on multimeter on diode mode, the VCE is giving OL instead of 0.839V

the same is with U15, in the manual it is mentioned the following values,

Pin1-Pin2: 0.994V

Pin3-Pin4: 1.643V

Pin4-Pin3: 1.717V 

the value for Pin3-Pin4 and Pin3-Pin4 is also OL on multimeter. 

 

Can you tell me what can be the reason, thank you..

12 hours ago, tanveerhabib said:

When I measured on multimeter on diode mode, the VCE is giving OL instead of 0.839V

I would not put too much faith in those diode measurements, except the ones where the voltage drop is determined solely by the device in question. So Vbe and Vbc yes, but Vce no.

By the way, I now realise that this large transformer is the battery power supply; in the models I'm used to, this is not separate from the "main" power supply.

So we haven't found the bus soft start power supply yet. And when you do, you have to figure out why it's not turning off, not so much find out what might be damaged, unless that part is associated with turning off that power supply. But also, my theory that it's the bus soft start power supply might itself be wrong. But hopefully you can find that out when you find it.

  • Author
On 2023/07/02 at 8:07 AM, Coulomb said:

On this very forum:

 

 

 

 

In this service manual you posted for us for help, can you tell me where is the bus soft start supply present. thank you.

44 minutes ago, tanveerhabib said:

can you tell me where is the bus soft start supply present.

It's not, sadly. These service manuals don't pretend to be comprehensive. And this one is actually one of the best, with the most schematic diagrams.

2 hours ago, tanveerhabib said:

In this service manual you posted for us for help, can you tell me where is the bus soft start supply present. thank you.

Below is a trace for a MAX7.2 (OG7.2) , your machine will have the same circuit , and you may even have the same component enumeration , but please check against your board , especially if you decide to excite the soft start manually from CN11-4 , your connection to the DSP module might be different.

So as you can see this is a straight forward open loop converter . Once cn11-4 is pulled down to GND (NOTE your +12V supply return , not BAT-!) , U16 will produce drive pulses to Q6 . In turn it will generate high voltage on the xformer secondary. This voltage will ramp up at a slow rate , because the xformer impedance is high , and the bus capacitors impedance are low when discharged. If you excite the circuit manually , keep a voltmeter across the bus , as not to exceed 350VDC , when it exceeds 350V remove the manual enable. If you dont see a rise of voltage its normally because there is a short across the BUS , but in rare cases there might be a problem with the soft start circuit itself.

Good luck.

image.thumb.png.50da38968ce8a499cc5785462fc1175a.png

30 minutes ago, BritishRacingGreen said:

Below is a trace for a MAX7.2 (OG7.2) , your machine will have the same circuit , and you may even have the same component enumeration , but please check against your board , especially if you decide to excite the soft start manually from CN11-4 , your connection to the DSP module might be different.

So as you can see this is a straight forward open loop converter . Once cn11-4 is pulled down to GND (NOTE your +12V supply return , not BAT-!) , U16 will produce drive pulses to Q6 . In turn it will generate high voltage on the xformer secondary. This voltage will ramp up at a slow rate , because the xformer impedance is high , and the bus capacitors impedance are low when discharged. If you excite the circuit manually , keep a voltmeter across the bus , as not to exceed 350VDC , when it exceeds 350V remove the manual enable. If you dont see a rise of voltage its normally because there is a short across the BUS , but in rare cases there might be a problem with the soft start circuit itself.

Good luck.

image.thumb.png.50da38968ce8a499cc5785462fc1175a.png

Note that the transformer TX2 is supplied by SPS+ on the MAX7.2 . This is basically a wired-or derivative of any one of MPPT,GRID or BATTERY. This is because the MAX may be operated in battery-less mode. Your inverter does not allow  battery-less , so SPS+ in your case should be BAT+.

Also note that U16 requires a supply voltage of 11V or upwards on pin 7 (VCC) . If your UC3845 is powered correctly you should read exactly 5.0 VDC on pin 8 of U16 (VREF).

 

  • Author
34 minutes ago, BritishRacingGreen said:

Note that the transformer TX2 is supplied by SPS+ on the MAX7.2 . This is basically a wired-or derivative of any one of MPPT,GRID or BATTERY. This is because the MAX may be operated in battery-less mode. Your inverter does not allow  battery-less , so SPS+ in your case should be BAT+.

Also note that U16 requires a supply voltage of 11V or upwards on pin 7 (VCC) . If your UC3845 is powered correctly you should read exactly 5.0 VDC on pin 8 of U16 (VREF).

 

Thank you for your lengthy reply giving me some great hints about my issue, I have checked the inverter with only battery mode on, no solar connected, no line connect and no load connected, the battery voltage at the time of checking was around 44 volts, and when i checked the voltage at the bus side, it gradually increased from 0 Volts DC to between 350 to 360 volts. and when it increased to 350 to 360 volts after few seconds error code 08 displayed and the voltages died. what can be the issue then. As the voltages are generating.

35 minutes ago, tanveerhabib said:

and when it increased to 350 to 360 volts after few seconds error code 08 displayed and the voltages died. what can be the issue then. As the voltages are generating.

Fault code 08 is bus voltage too high. This happens when the bus voltage exceeds 500.0 V (for your model). But now that you've found that the actual bus voltage is no higher than 360 V, the problem must be that the DSP is measuring the bus voltage too high.

On BritishRacingGreen's schematic in the lower right corner are 8 1 MΩ resistors; these are part of the measurement of the bus voltage. It's not unusual for these to go low resistance, due to moisture ingress, dirt, or age. Lower resistance will cause the measured voltage to be higher than the actual voltage. So the next step is to measure those resistors in-circuit. You may have to remove one in each string to get an accurate reading. Replacing these resistors will likely fix your problem. There is a small chance that the fault is further along, which would be on the control board.

Note that per the above schematic, there are actually two zero ohm resistors, one in each string. It's possible in your case that there are 4 667 kΩ resistors, or other combinations.

  • Author
24 minutes ago, Coulomb said:

Fault code 08 is bus voltage too high. This happens when the bus voltage exceeds 500.0 V (for your model). But now that you've found that the actual bus voltage is no higher than 360 V, the problem must be that the DSP is measuring the bus voltage too high.

On BritishRacingGreen's schematic in the lower right corner are 8 1 MΩ resistors; these are part of the measurement of the bus voltage. It's not unusual for these to go low resistance, due to moisture ingress, dirt, or age. Lower resistance will cause the measured voltage to be higher than the actual voltage. So the next step is to measure those resistors in-circuit. You may have to remove one in each string to get an accurate reading. Replacing these resistors will likely fix your problem. There is a small chance that the fault is further along, which would be on the control board.

Note that per the above schematic, there are actually two zero ohm resistors, one in each string. It's possible in your case that there are 4 667 kΩ resistors, or other combinations.

Hello, I have checked all of those resistors are of about 680kohm, with those two zero ohm resistors are also good. should I still replace them??

29 minutes ago, tanveerhabib said:

Hello, I have checked all of those resistors are of about 680kohm, with those two zero ohm resistors are also good. should I still replace them??

No, it could be that my schematic values are wrong, let me check it first, please. 

EDIT : if yours are all read 680k, then its most probably correct values. 

Edited by BritishRacingGreen

1 hour ago, tanveerhabib said:

Hello, I have checked all of those resistors are of about 680kohm, with those two zero ohm resistors are also good. should I still replace them??

I have just measured these values on  3 different boards, OG10 10kw, MKSIV 5.6kw, MKSIII 5kw. 

They all as per schematic 3 x  1M and 1x  0R  per leg. 

It could be that older MKS2 VM2 has different values I cannot say. Maybe we should also look at Coulombs partial schematics. 

 

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