59 minutes ago, Scorp007 said:

And no 1 is on the right. At least the on and off and numbers as marked are used. It is however enough to confuse people when they are upside down. 

I guess I follow what is printed on the switch then:) btw what happens if I leave the current CAN cable, I mean having all wired up is almost the same as having only 5 wire connected.

1 hour ago, Scorp007 said:

And no 1 is on the right. At least the on and off and numbers as marked are used. It is however enough to confuse people when they are upside down. 

well if all going to be off, it seems easy

2 hours ago, Zoltan said:

I guess I follow what is printed on the switch then:) btw what happens if I leave the current CAN cable, I mean having all wired up is almost the same as having only 5 wire connected.

If you leave them connected you can get data corruption. You only require Can H and CAN L. (CAN ground is your choice, not sure myself on the advantage or disadvantage ).

19 hours ago, Tinbum said:

If you leave them connected you can get data corruption. You only require Can H and CAN L. (CAN ground is your choice, not sure myself on the advantage or disadvantage ).

same said just today by Solis the inverter provider

If you want to connect your battery with Solis inverters, the communication ports on the inverter side are as follows:

 

CAN-H (Controller Area Network High) on Pin 4 (blue)

CAN-L (Controller Area Network Low) on Pin 5 (blue/white)

 

Funny enough they dont care about interference as their official cable has 6 wire connected and 2 null in the RJ45, so I cant see the current cable I have would be any issue, especially not if the solis inverter only uses 2

Edited January 25, 20242 yr by Zoltan

11 hours ago, Zoltan said:

 

 

 

Funny enough they dont care about interference as their official cable has 6 wire connected and 2 null in the RJ45, so I cant see the current cable I have would be any issue, especially not if the solis inverter only uses 2

Do you know for sure that their is no connection at all on the 1 to 3 pins inside the inverter?

12 hours ago, Tinbum said:

Do you know for sure that their is no connection at all on the 1 to 3 pins inside the inverter?

according solis there is none, they sent a picture about it. Although they did not confirm if the full on rj45 would coause any issue or not.

The whole thing is confusing as the official inverter to battery cable for the inverter has 6 wire connected, picture1 while the battery to inverter from Pylon has it from the other end and only 5 connected... picture2. So my bet is ill leave the fully connected cable as is. Worked so far and were no issues.

The DIPs and Links ill change to see if anything changes. The Link I understand, the DIPS I don really get what would change, tha manual is strange, pin3\4 reversed? the first I get is the baud rate for the port I dont use:) the second is for CAN terminal resistance connected or none...?

On 2024/01/25 at 10:04 PM, Tinbum said:

Do you know for sure that their is no connection at all on the 1 to 3 pins inside the inverter?

sad thing if you ask Pylon they are pointing to the installer ... lol, they sell something and have no technical support.

I hope ill never have to deal with warranty claims on these

4 minutes ago, Zoltan said:

sad thing if you ask Pylon they are pointing to the installer ... lol, they sell something and have no technical support.

I hope ill never have to deal with warranty claims on these

It is all in he instructions. You are making more of this than required.

3 hours ago, Tinbum said:

It is all in he instructions. You are making more of this than required.

probably,:) Ill set them dips to all 0 tomorrow and change the link1-1 to 1-0.

Should I wait till the batterys are on any charge level or doeas not matter?

Also should I turn off the inverter\reboot after?

Edited January 27, 20242 yr by Zoltan

I just did it, turned off both the batteries and inverter, set the link1 to link0 and restarted all.

1 good thing came out of this after the link was connected to the proper port that the batteries now can be turned off by the master batterie, before it was not working like that. Also the Inerter\battery details shows more information where it was empty.

Will see how it performs now, regarding the discharge\charge rate.

I left the inverter to battery cable as is, according the information I could extract from Solis\Pylon and this forum, it can cause data error\interference but both the solis and Pylon cable are having more pins connected then it suggested by the manual.... So I ll take the risk of that corruption, considering it runs for a year now without issue, I dont think it will corrupt that little data what runs in those 2 wires out of the 8 connected.

Thanks for the commenters.

53 minutes ago, Zoltan said:

I dont think it will corrupt that little data what runs in those 2 wires out of the 8 connected.

Thanks for the commenters.

It can and has done in the past to people.

The Link change resulted in increase of discharge to ove 3KWh rate (oven baking), I am expecting it to be able to do around 3.6KWh when there is more load, Ill test it when i charge the car.

As these are in paralel and my bet is with the wrong linking it had only the rate of 1 battery which was 1.8KWh, like tey were both master?.

Also i think the installer set it up like this to prolong the life of the battery and inverter, or i might be to optimistic and it was maybe just a mistake.

Anyway, will see through the summer if the 4KWh solar production can be soaked up by the battery in this linking setup.

Maybe 3.6KWh will be the top, will see.

Also thinking of adding a 3rd battery to the setup, would that be an issue in the future? I mean the current 2 alreadi on 99%SOH and probably some voltage\amp difference would be present compared to a new battery on 100% SOH.

37A x 2 (DC) is what you will get. No problem adding another battery.

Installer messed up.

Edited January 28, 20242 yr by Tinbum

7 hours ago, Zoltan said:

The Link change resulted in increase of discharge to ove 3KWh rate (oven baking), I am expecting it to be able to do around 3.6KWh when there is more load, Ill test it when i charge the car.

As these are in paralel and my bet is with the wrong linking it had only the rate of 1 battery which was 1.8KWh, like tey were both master?.

Also i think the installer set it up like this to prolong the life of the battery and inverter, or i might be to optimistic and it was maybe just a mistake.

Anyway, will see through the summer if the 4KWh solar production can be soaked up by the battery in this linking setup.

Maybe 3.6KWh will be the top, will see.

Also thinking of adding a 3rd battery to the setup, would that be an issue in the future? I mean the current 2 alreadi on 99%SOH and probably some voltage\amp difference would be present compared to a new battery on 100% SOH.

I have 3 US 3OOO with Axpert 5kW inveter. Can draw 5kW with no problems. Like to stay as low as possible with load.

7 hours ago, Chris Louw said:

I have 3 US 3OOO with Axpert 5kW inveter. Can draw 5kW with no problems. Like to stay as low as possible with load.

my inverter is 3.6KWh but can do up to 5KWh in ideal conditions, when the panels are not overheating and the inverter is in good temps.

The max i saw was 4.6KWh though in summer highs, but if this link change is granting me only the 3.6KWh i am already happy with that.

On 2024/01/27 at 5:31 PM, Zoltan said:

I just did it, turned off both the batteries and inverter, set the link1 to link0 and restarted all.

1 good thing came out of this after the link was connected to the proper port that the batteries now can be turned off by the master batterie, before it was not working like that. Also the Inerter\battery details shows more information where it was empty.

Will see how it performs now, regarding the discharge\charge rate.

I left the inverter to battery cable as is, according the information I could extract from Solis\Pylon and this forum, it can cause data error\interference but both the solis and Pylon cable are having more pins connected then it suggested by the manual.... So I ll take the risk of that corruption, considering it runs for a year now without issue, I dont think it will corrupt that little data what runs in those 2 wires out of the 8 connected.

Thanks for the commenters.

As anticipated...

On 2024/01/28 at 4:18 AM, Chris Louw said:

I have 3 US 3OOO with Axpert 5kW inveter. Can draw 5kW with no problems. Like to stay as low as possible with load.

Pylon annswered today

 

Hello, 

 

Yes, please change with Link1 to Link0.

 

Dip switch no problem. (Please refer to the guide in the attachment.)

 

If the communication between the inverter and the battery is normal, you can keep the communication cable and continue to use it.

Extra info from Pylon customer rep:

Hi,

 

Please connect the Link port 1 of master battery to the Link port 0 of the slave battery.

 

Both batteries can be used as the master battery, but the master battery needs to communicate to the PCS. With one master and one slave, the master battery can summarize the information of slave battery and communicate to the PCS, but there is no way for the two master batteries to be differentiated and recognized by the PCS at this time, so it is necessary to add one additional device called lv-hub to make it work, but it is not necessary.

On 2024/01/24 at 9:05 AM, Mauritius B said:

No master, no proper communications, no capacity definition = blind inverter = system not working 100%

If you feel so unsure, get someone to check the system for you. It is not rocket science.

 

1 hour ago, Zoltan said:

Extra info from Pylon customer rep:

Hi,

 

Please connect the Link port 1 of master battery to the Link port 0 of the slave battery.

 

Both batteries can be used as the master battery, but the master battery needs to communicate to the PCS. With one master and one slave, the master battery can summarize the information of slave battery and communicate to the PCS, but there is no way for the two master batteries to be differentiated and recognized by the PCS at this time, so it is necessary to add one additional device called lv-hub to make it work, but it is not necessary.

Quite similar information, I would say.