TimCam

So I guess S/S 304 is way too expensive currently, but nothing wrong with galvanized mild steel. I think most people go this route.👍 The install looking good so far, and if you have no use for the panels currently, I can assist. 😂😂 Enjoy the build, and anticipation of completion.

If you are one of the lucky souls to have the "right" meter, don't push back all at once, or they might become suspicious. But on the other side, who's to say a child who enjoyed using heaters, etc, has not just left home for the great big world.😆 If they only figure it out 2 years later, they still don't know when you installed the system.

Not all spinning wheel meters clock back the digits, as Nitriouse says, but check yours, maybe you are one of the lucky ones.

Yip, the AntMiner D3's ate way over 1kW to get 19.3G/hash. The current machines are way more efficient, but it's a never ending upgrade path, and the old tech is literally useless. GPU's are the cheapest and easiest to mine with, but I also CPU mine, as the machines are on, and there is always spare CPU cycles. Make every Watt work. 😆

Looking good, and making money. Back in the day (2017), I used to run ASIC's for dash, and GPU rigs for ETH. Now-days the ASIC's are off and I only run RX580 and 1050ti for ETH and RVN, just for fun. The machines are also on 24/7 unless we have Eskom failures for days in bad weather. Another mining avenue you can look into is FPGA mining. Its more efficient and profitable than GPU, but you need to be able to "program" the FPGA's or know someone who can. FPGA = Field Programmable Gate Array.

Mining is expensive if you use ASIC's on grid power in SA, and you need large solar to power a decent number of ASIC's. I imagine you are mining with GPU rigs, as these are less power hungry? With ETH prices at the moment it's worth it. Do you mine 24 hours, or just in daylight hours? Good luck, and may the ETH be with you. 😂

What is the house load? Maybe it's only 1800W, and that is all you'll see unless the batteries are charging, or you are pushing back to Eskom. Either way, welcome to the solar family. 👍

Just on a different note, I see thee max sell power tops out at 9600W, and the max solar power tops out at 12000W. So on good days those with enough panels can push +- 80 kWh back into the grid, if you have the right meter. 😲😀

Can you not just switch the slave off, and then test on one inverter only. But you need to upgrade your fuses to 220A, or else you'll blow the 160A if you run this test. Let us know the outcome of you're testing.🤔

Not quite sure what you mean, but I have my whole house wired as essential load on the inverter, and have pushed it to 8 kW usage, and it handles it without a problem. My normal "idle" house load is +- 1 kW.

The SunSynk is a "Hybrid Parity (Super) Inverter", which does everything in one unit, and therefore idle wattage can't be compared to a Victron which is a component system. I don't have a 5.5 kW unit, but have an 8.8 kW unit, and currently at night it is using about 42 W. Not too bad for a decent sized system with all the functionality it has built in. Hope this is of some help.

You can always wire in a changeover in the main feed DB, and feed the inverter from the generator when municipal power is down. You will have to widen the tolerances of Voltage and Frequency on the Goodwe though. 👍 As you mentioned the weather, here in KZN we can easily go two weeks with constant rain and NO sun, plus power outages, so a generator is also a requirement to top the batteries up when all else fails. 🤔

I respect everyone's install, weather a R2000.00 install just for lights, or a R1000 000.00 install with a backup 100kW battery. Everyone is different, and requires different installs to maintain a life style for their families. Also depending where you are in this county, that too can force certain requirements. Just two days ago, our grid power was off for 1.75 days, and without our 11kW lithium backup, we would have been seriously in trouble, as power to run computers, fridges, freezers, etc is needed through the night too. Our "idle" draw is 1kW. I am not an internet worker, but family members are, and can't afford any outages with our power. What I say, always get by with the most affordable install, but if budget allows, plan for the future.

I'm confused, do you have a Hybrid inverter with panels, that push back power into the grid, and therefor you're saying you are a net supplier to City of Cape Town, or are you fully off grid with 12V 7.2AH batteries for lights, and maybe a generator? An explanation of your system would be great. I started with 12V DC lights throughout the house, then a bunch of pure sine wave inverters, and now am happy with a SunSync 8.8K machine with panels and lithium batteries. I absolutely have to have good batteries, as the power grid in my area is Bad. There have been times the power is off for days, and some weeks we experience three power outages a week, which has nothing to do with load-shedding. Oh, and as a final backup, I also have a generator. For those who don't believe me, come to KZN, midlands. 😂 @RichardZA Batteries, and more batteries, plus panels to charge them, as the power grid countrywide will sooner or later get even more unreliable.👍

Looking Pretty, but come on, at least put the kettle on so we can see if those dials move. 😂

If the price is good, maybe you can sell a few too. Good choice of kit, hope it serves you well. Welcome to the solar family, and don't forget we all like pictures. 😆

Great to see your setup working to your satisfaction, and with your monitor software too. 😀👍 The satisfaction of been independent even through load-shedding is great, and cutting down on the electricity bill is priceless. 😂

That's the the one, and double check the dip switches too. 👍

Look on the Hubble website with reference to SunSynk CAN connection. All settings are there, and the correct pin-outs. The supplied cable is only for AM-2 to AM-2 battery communication, not to be used to any inverter. 👍 Welcome to the solar family, and hope you have many happy years with your setup.😀 Good looking setup, and choice of components.

Yes, the delta (difference) is between the Solar Manifold water temperature, and the Geyser water temperature. The On delta is actually 6 deg. and Off delta is 2 deg. It has been so long since I changed anything, that's why I thought it was 4 deg.😂 So when the Solar Manifold water temperature is 6 degrees Higher than the Geyser water temperature, the circulation pump is switched on. I must use a pump, as the Geyser is below the Solar Manifold and tubes. Once the pump starts, the water temperature in the Solar Manifold increases quite a bit. When the Solar Manifold water temperature reaches 2 degrees or lower than the Geyser water temperature, the pump is switched off. The temperature measurements are all instantaneous, and dynamically compared for control purposes. I also have other features in the controller, including de-Icing, pump restarting (if jammed), element control, etc. Set points and other adjustments are updated with a PS2 type thumb joy-stick. I enjoy messing around with such projects, but unfortunately time is short now days. Some Pictures of different configs and displays. 👍

Ok, so you use Delta Geyser temp and Manifold temp for on, and (Delta +2 to <= GC) for off. On my 20 tube system, I've settled on a Delta of +4 for pump on, and Delta of +2 for off. This pushes the geyser temp up nicely throughout the day, in a step like manner without any Eskom assistance, provided the weather is not could and raining. On a decent day the temperature is between 60C and 80C.😀 As I'm in KZN midlands, when there is rain, storms, mist, all bets are off, and Eskom assistance is required.🙄 I do not consider the geyser to be warm if its under 56C. I am still extremely happy with my evacuated tube solar geyser, as it has given me many years of faultless service. My solar PV journey is only +- six months old now, but just as fruitful and enjoyable. Always good to have free power and hot water.

The curse of any solar installation. 😂 What method do you use to decide when to switch the circulation pump on? Do you use a difference (Delta) in temp between the Solar manifold temp and geyser / holding tank, or some other method? Thanks.

Keep going, we are all watching, and always enjoy new installs with pictures. A lot of the "fun", is in the install and fiddling with the setup. It's always satisfying to stand back and behold a job well done. 😁 It is also great to see your "power plant" produce too, especially when Eskom is taking a break during load-shedding. Now come on friend, lets get done..... 🤣😂🤣 ...and well done so far... 👍

The SunSynk is compatible with both Freedom Won and Hubble batteries via the CAN bus, and a cable can be made up easily if not supplied. Just some CAT-5 cable and two RJ-45 connectors. The battery manual will supply correct pin outs for the CAN wiring. I am biased, and have two Hubble AM-2 batteries on my SunSynk 8.8K and all is working flawlessly. With the AM-2's you can connect 15 together to have a total of 82.5 kW, as funds allow.

I don't know if this will help, but put some hysteresis in the battery settings of shutdown and restart. It's not logical to have shutdown and restart both at 42V, what must the machine do? 🤔 Try ShutDown = 43V, Low Bat = 45V, and Restart = 48V. Like others have advised, speak to LBSA about the correct settings.