TimCam

Don't waste your time with "PsyOp Boxes", rather spend time and money on other things like solar, water and food.😂 Never had DSTV, and haven't watched the box for thirty+ years now. missed nothing of value. All TV's for cctv, and other monitoring purposes, I've removed the modulator, so SABC can go get lost, no license fee from me.😜 But if you really want free TV, I believe Openview offers a satellite service for all SABC, e-TV, etc for a few hundred rand once off. https://www.game.co.za/game-za/en/All-Game-Categories/Electronics-%26-Entertainment/Television-%26-Satellite/Decoders-%26-Satellite/Decoders-%26-Accessories/OVHD-Openview-Decoder-NA9200/p/749919-EA https://www.takealot.com/openview-hd-decoder-standalone/ You'll have to install, or get an approved installer, so I'm told.

I have 20 tube EV geyser, and 6600kWp solar PV, and on rainy days the 20 tube EV geyser is close to useless, whereas the 6600kWp of solar PV still provides just under 1 kW of power. I've had the 20 tube EV geyser for years before the PV install, and on non rainy days it's great.

Nope, two units means twice as much can go wrong, then you only have half capacity. I would love one of these units, but would wire in 20kWp of solar for those overcast days.

Simple answer is yes, the 5.5 kW or 8.8 kW Sunsynk inverter will easily handle your load (4 kW) without problems for long periods of time. Just expect the fans to run while the load is been fed from solar or battery. 👍

On the AVR in the generator, there is an 18 turn pot. you can adjust to fine tune the voltage via feedback to the coil. The AVR is normally filled with potting compound (looks like black resin), but the 18 turn pot is normally sticking its screw head out. As @Kladrie has said, the running (RPM = Frequency Hz) can be manually adjusted with a set screw, much like the idle screw on old cars. Any adjustments on the generator while it is running, must be done carefully as you could loose body parts or be shocked. 😲 You'll of course need a multimeter with Hz, to check an adjust the generator.

Put the Low Hz to 47, and try. The settings I've used work on my SunSynk 8.8 kW inverter, but I feed it into the Grid input via a change-over switch. This is for when the power is off for many days of bad weather. One day I need to wire it into the AUX port and check. 👍

In settings "Grid", adjust High Voltage = 265, Low Voltage = 180, High Hz = 53.8, Low Hz =47, and see if this helps?

Aha.. Load-shedding, whats that? 😂😂 You're now immune to it.👍

If you have "Zero Export" un-ticked, i.e. you export excess power to the grid, this feature should work correctly. Why SunSynk and Deye don't upgrade the firmware controlling the MPPT's to provide the potential / available solar is strange? To limit the supplied load to actual load, the MPPT's are dialed back by a known amount, which can be calculated and displayed as potential power, and used for AUX port control too. 🤔

Because it is only a "Grid Tied" inverter, it should not trip if the load is greater than it's rated power. The excess that the load requires will be supplied by the grid(Eskom). What it's rating means, is it can only supply 3kW into the load / grid. The more advanced "Hybrid Parity (Super) Inverters" (SunSynk, etc) are two way inverters, with essential (UPS), non essential (grid tied), Aux ports,etc. These are in a different class, and more expensive. With the SunSync 8.8 kW, you can blend (solar / battery) / pass-through (grid) 12 kW to the essential (UPS) side of the inverter, as long as you have grid. During load-shedding, the essential (UPS) side of the inverter can only supply power according to the rating of the inverter, i.e. 8.8 kW, and all non essential (grid tied) loads are not supplied. 👍 No matter what inverter we have, during load-shedding, we all smile while our poor neighbors moan. 😂

I normally cycle my batteries every second or third night. Depending on how I feel I take them to a SOC of 60% to 30%. I don't like to go too low because the grid in our area is pathetic. Like now, we haven't had power since 10H30, and who knows when its coming back? Thank goodness for a sunny day and batteries at a SOC of 99% now.

Lithium's need to be cycled, unlike lead acid / gel. Do you cycle your batteries every night, or maybe every second night?

Have you maybe changed a time parameter? Also check the battery "Out" wattage on the "Home Screen", does this match up with the used capacity?

OK thanks for the info. So just the lower voltage stuff.👍

This is quite normal, to charge to 100%, then drop back to 99%. Sometimes it will draw a few Watts, and other times it will give a few Watts, this is the battery BMS and inverter communicating and changing battery states between Float, Absorption, and Equalization.

If your installer has wired ALL loads through the inverter as essential, you will have the above flow display. if you have non essential loads before the inverter, and the CT coil is just before the inverter (this is wrong), you will have the same flow display, and be "blind" to non essential loads. if you have non essential loads before the inverter, and the CT coil is at the first point in from Eskom (At the MCB), you can then see the non essential loads, and feed them with solar as long as you have incoming Eskom power. During load shedding, you'll only supply essential loads. This is one of your inverters many great features.

I would go with second quote, and ask for Canadian Solar panels, as the performance under all conditions is amazing. Dust doesn't have much effect on performance, and their strength is exceptional. We had jaggered hail in PMB a while ago the size of tennis balls which broke roof tiles, but only "cleaned" the dust off the panels with zero damage. 😁 The Deye and Sunsynk inverters are the same OEM, but the Sunsynk has better firmware / software, for a slightly higher price. I personally have Hubble batteries, and am extremely happy with them, but know about Bull and Pylontech, which are good batteries too. Never seen this, as far as I know, all cells are grade "A" and new.

If all three fans are running, this could account for the high "internal" usage.

Looking at the LiBMS screen, something is fishy there as "Charge Current Limit" should NOT be 0A. Try what @Leshen and @Analytical say, and see if this parameter changes. Look at the sticker on the battery, which says "Float Voltage" = 52.6V. You can't have float, absorption, and equalization all the same, as they serve different functions, as they are named. Another thing to confirm, is DIP switch 1 set ON, and 2,3,4 set OFF?

What a question!! Don't we ALL wish we could.😆😆

You really want the Display and menu buttons at eye-level. Getting on a ladder or steps to check or change things will soon get tiresome. For the trunking, you want the DC and AC separate, or at least have trunking with a divider. Depending on your planned future requirements, like more batteries, etc, the size of trunking will vary anywhere from 50mm, 80mm, 100mm. The Sunsynk 8.8K is a large 650x420x240 mm beast which weighs a lot, and has no mounting frame like the Sunsynk 5.5K, but is bolted directly to the wall with 4x rawl bolts. So mounting high up requires strong hands. The Hubble AM-2 battery is also heavy at +40 KG, and requires 4x rawl bolts too. The 3x fans on the Sunsynk 8.8K do play beautiful melodies throughout the day, and sound fascinating with different RPM's and timings. It really is something special to hear.😆

Your battery settings look good, but on the battery Charge tab, set "Float V" to 52.6V. Un-tick the "Use Timer", and then when you are back at the "Home screen" (your first screenshot above) press on the white space or any bar chart to bring up the "Flow Screen". Give a screenshot of that and the "LI BMS" screens. 👍

Welcome to the forum. 👍 Have you been doing commercial installs or private home installs? I bet you have noticed rapid changes in the technology as the years have passed.

1 & 2 are positive (+), and are common. Electrically they are the same point, so either one can be used. 3 & 4 are negative (-) and are also common. This is done to connect more than one battery in parallel. Like you thought, just use 1(+) and 3(-) with one battery.

We need to see the battery settings, and have you had a cable made up, and connected between the inverter and battery? The cable that comes with the Hubble AM-2 battery is only to be used between two or more batteries, not to the inverter. If you go to the Hubble website and look for Sunsynk setup, all will be explained there. Don't forget the DIP switch settings too.👍 Welcome to the great world of power independence. 😆 I notice by your first picture, you are on of the "lucky" ones.