TimCam

On my SunSynk SOH is given on the LiBMS display under settings. My 3x Hubble-AM2's often charge and discharge at different current and power rates, but look at the Voltage, which will be very similar, if not the same most of the time.

When running electronics in the +70 deg temp range with high ambient air temp the life expectancy will be negatively impacted. Anything to bring temperatures down will help with extending the units serviceable life span. 👍

Yip, Fan-less electronics in South Africa is not clever. A friend with a Deye 5.5 kW fan-less unit made a frame for 3x 80mm 12V fans, and lets them run 24/7. He says the "Fan-less" unit now runs cooler than his old unit with built in fan. 😀 I think many more people will follow your example.

I am currently in the middle of an off-grid test with my solar. Switched the MCB off on 15 February 2023, and will only switch it back on on the 15 March 2023. You definitely need as many panels and batteries as finances will afford, especially for those bad weather days, when it rains for days. So far to date I've only had to run the generator once to top-up the batteries. I'm doing a full simulation of off-grid, no cheating with the MCB. So I suggest getting as many panels as you can afford, all depending on your "base load".

A handsome looking install @Steve87, and I bet a very happy customer. 👍

Earth straps frame to frame in series, then down to earth spike. Gauge of wire used depends on length to earth spike. Clamps to rails are not considered earthing, as corrosion will occur over time.

To "Export" you need to UN-Tick the "Zero Export" I would think. Also if you are exporting there is absolutely no reason to use the timer, as your electricity supplier (Eskom in SA) is your BIG battery you always want to charge, and keep your local batteries for (load-shedding, power failures in SA) only. This all depends on where in the world you are. 🤔

If this is a new Deye, it most probably doesn't have fans (can you hear the fan, or is some software saying the fan is on?). A friend of mine bought a new 5kW Deye to parallel with his old one, and he had the same temperature readings you are showing. He bought 3x 80mm 12V fans and built a frame for them, and has them running full time, and now his new inverter runs cool. A fan-less inverter might be OK the the UK, but NOT for South Africa.

Every now and again the batteries send +- 37 W upwards to the inverter, even with grid and solar available, don't worry about that, it's normal. The Battery SOC can also vary between +- 96 - 99%. Only at the end of load-shedding at night when the batteries are fully charged, will it be 100% for a while. The cycle count is shown by the aftermarket Software I use, called Solar Assistant. https://solar-assistant.io/

My system has just come out of a charge cycle after load-shedding so batteries are 100%. Pack #3 is my newest Hubble, and is 120A.

On the "Battery Charge" tab set: Float = 52.6V Absorption V = 53.6V Equalization V = 53.5 V My Hubble's still have a SOH of 100%.

Possibly the batteries are faulty, and are unable to sustain a load once current is drawn. This could be why the old inverter was giving trouble, and why the SunSynk won't work without AC present. With the SunSynk set to AGM, it will work with any battery as long as the Current and Voltage is within spec, and available for the load required. Maybe if you have a logging multi-meter or digital oscilloscope you can monitor the voltage while you disconnect the AC. If you have a DC shunt you could check the Current too. If you are able to get access to the BMS of the batteries, this could help. Hope you get to the bottom of this soon. 👍

Lovely to see a completed and working install. Well done to @Steve87 and I'm sure @PearlJam will be so happy to have this system, especially as we now have stage 6 load-shedding. Welcome to the world of power generation.

I thought this was great...

Is it the V1 model or the V2 model? V1 = 110Ah V2 = 120Ah As can be seen below, Pack #3 is the newer 120Ah unit.

Maybe someone can try this extension of the CT wires, as explained in the link below, and give feedback? Theory of CT coils is explained, though not specifically for the SunSynk inverter. https://learn.openenergymonitor.org/electricity-monitoring/ct-sensors/introduction

I feel your pain with this problem, as 60% of my own house has no ceilings too. To get to the old wiring, the roof tiles need to be lifted, and the metal pipes with the wiring are then available. I suppose metal piping could be run under the eaves for the wires? Hope the rest of the installation goes without any problems. 👍

Always good to see a new power station find a good home. 👍 More pictures are definitely required. 😂 Well done @Steve87 and @PearlJam.

Totally agree with you on this, a great piece of kit especially with the Eskom issues. 👍

It is disappointing to hear of installation mistakes like this. Great to see you getting the full use of your equipment you paid a lot of money for.👍

If you can source a Pi, then you can buy the software separately, but Pi's are terribly difficult to find nowdays. 🤔

With 2x Hubble AM-2 batteries, in the battery setup, (Batt type) tab on your SunSynk 8.8 kW inverter, Batt capacity = +- 220 Ah, Charge Amps = +- 50A (or up to 200A), Discharge Amps = 185A. ⚫ Lithium, ⚫ CAN. (Shut Down) tab, ShutDown = 20%, Low Batt = 35%, Restart = 50%. If you have an emergency need for battery power, you can change the Shutdown = 10% on the odd occasion to get through the night. When connecting your new battery to your old battery (parallel), check the voltage difference of the two before connecting them. If the difference is 2V or greater, you MUST charge the new battery separately first, or the old battery and inverter will try and supply more than 100A to the new battery, and the new battery BMS will trip out. You have a great setup with your inverter and batteries, hope they serve you for many years to come.

I use a variation of Circuit B. Sunsynk 8.8 kW MPPT's max Voltage is 500V, therefor First double pole DC 500V trip. Followed by 2x fuses and 500V SPD per string. Inverter feed is taken from SPD's + -, not trip or fuses. (try and allow the wiring to inverter, to be longer than SPD's earth wire to ground, so that if the SPD's fire, the spike voltage will be pulled to ground before reaching the inverter) I use 500V trip and 500V SPD's, as I don't want to see or smell the blue smoke of unhappiness rise from my inverter. 😂 The main reason the double pole trip is first, is that when home, and there is lightning storms, I disconnect the solar, and therefor save the entire string setup including the SPD's from unnecessary damage.

I suspect you are using WEP security on your ADSL WiFi modem from years ago. Most current IOT devices will not connect to "low security" WEP networks. Update to WPA/2/3. Unfortunately all wireless devices will need to be re-connected using the new security protocol enabled on your modem. Good luck with your shiny new SunSynk system, and hope you have many happy years of use from it. Welcome to the forum too.

It was to allow the "Nation" to watch the FIFA soccer in peace, then back to the usual grind. 🙄