TimCam

Maybe your electrician wired the CBI into all the non-essential, and not only the geyser.? 🤔

It's called a Monday or is it a Friday Machine. 🤔 Still, not funny when it's your machine. See if you can find another Multiplus II 48/3000 nearby, and ask if you can "listen" to their machine and compare. If theirs is quiet, ask for a replacement?

Note, if your inverters CT coil is installed correctly, the inverter will still show the total load your house and granny flat are using, i.e. (essential + non-essential), but of course the non-essential is not going through the inverter, just the CT coil monitoring the usage. One plus is if there is enough solar power to push back to the geyser and aircons, during the times the geyser timer is off, you will feed the granny flat too, and save on the Eskom bill.

Your Float, Absorption, and Equalization Voltages seem a bit high. Try:- Float = 54.8V, Absorption = 55V, and Equalization = 54.9V I see the Recommended Charge Current = 50A, Recommended Charge Voltage = 55V, Max Charge Current = 80A, Max Continuous Discharge Current = 90A. Always good to be kind to your batteries if possible. Taken from:- https://www.victronenergy.com/live/_media/battery_compatibility:victron_bsl_manual_-_2021-04-14.pdf

The current clipping doesn't bother me in summer and good days. The reason I want so many panels is for bad days and winter. I'd rather not "fix" my inverter with an upgrade, as it is working great, and there are features I don't want to loose. 👍 Canadian panels are great, not only for there operation, but they are tough as a tank. When we had Hail as big as tennis balls, the panels didn't get damaged at all. Where the hail hit the panels, the dust was cleaned off in a star pattern, but zero cracks or fractures, and still working 100%

These larger Wattage panels do have a lower Voc, and a high Isc, so 10 on a string will be OK, and the 8.8 kW SunSynk can handle the current. As @mzezman suggests try 5 per MPPT, and see how that works for a bit. If you are a DIY, after a week try all 10 on 1 MPPT. Compare the difference and then decide. Another option is to cut down the offending shade. 😂

Vmp = 39.3V Imp = 10.56A Voc = 47.8V Isc = 11.14A My "old" inverter says PV Input Current = 18A DC, and Max PV ISC = 25A DC. Below is the Voltage and Current graphs for a day in summer, with load-shedding between 14H00 and just before 16H00. Notice the current clipping at +- 20A.

I currently have 12x Canadian 415W panels set as 6S2P, onto the one string of my 8.8 kW SunSynk. My aim is to go to 9S2P on both strings. My firmware hasn't been upgraded for about 2 years now, so the Current is limited to 20A. No problems at all in all seasons. Panels are NW, and 22 degrees, KZN.

The load looks normal, but for some reason the inverter seems to "switch" to battery for powering the load. Maybe some timer and setting kicking the batteries into play? I'm not a Voltronics person so don't know about timers, SBU, SUB, settings on these machines. Maybe @Steve87, @Coulomb and others can help. 🤔 Looking below it seems to have a timer that can select different options.

Could you please include the load and battery graphs for the same time. Almost looks like there was a drop in load and battery charging for that time? When load diminishes, the Current drops, and the Voltage increases, as in the graphs.🤔 Such a sudden change in solar output is not normal for shading.

Yes, Essential / Load, is the UPS output on the SunSynk inverters. AUX is a special input or output. There are many functions and options with these inverters. You can even push back extra solar power to non-essential loads when Eskom is available, and even push back solar power to the Eskom grid, etc...

Shipping kills aliexpress now, as you can't use the post office anymore.

Water is number one, then food, then shelter, then protection. The protection is always the difficult part, as how do you protect against a desperate starving mob? 🤔

Yip, and I can't fathom why the MPPT firmware doesn't supply (instantaneous "potential" power availability), according to available Voltage, Current, and throttling impedance/ resistance values. This reading would be of great value, so you could switch loads on or off, especially during load-shedding. The MPPT firmware knows the impedance/resistance it is introducing, therefor it can work out the potential power available. This would be a great feature if made available through a register that can be read by home automation systems.

The new Hubble AM-2 is actually 6 kW at 125A. I have 2 x 100A 1 x 120A Hubble's working together with no problems. For the Averge, I have no experience, others will help.

Yip, without fuel (diesel and petrol), all transportation will stop. No shops or businesses will receive stock or produce. People will starve and have no water too. marauding mobs will scour the cities and suburbs looking for food and water. Things will be dire, and no one will be happy or safe. Doomsday.... 😓

What ever you do, switch your lights OFF at night, and play possum, or in due course you will have unwelcome visitors. Use your power carefully, so as not to draw attention to yourself. (No wild disco's and screeching machinery) 😄 As others have said, water and food will be the main focus of yours and others attention. Don't advertise your prepping, but get family and friends close. Help neighbors if possible, but be careful. If you can afford it, a borehole is a great asset, and will even help with the monthly water bills in "normal times".

I use a 315MHz wireless 16 relay controller to switch on or off all my 12V DC lights. No need to run more wires than I need too. This I installed years ago, and to be honest since the inverter was installed, I have never used them again. 👍 As for the separation of AC / DC wires, maybe sprague can be used to technically separate the wires in the conduit and wall-boxes?

A friend has an LG inverter MW, and he says it has a number of power levels, and does not PWM, but is constant power.👍

Speak to @Coulomb about this, as he is the man for Voltronic Axpert machines.👍

Yip, normally the AVR is sealed in potting compound to help with vibrations, but they do fail with use. When mine failed years ago, the voltage shot up to crazy highs, but lucky my high / low voltage protection saved my house.

Petrol and diesel generators do produce "pure" sine wave power, just as Eskom does. The AVR circuit is used to excite the field coils in the alternator, and varies the coils voltage to maintain a "constant" output voltage. The frequency is a mechanical function of the RPM of the petrol or diesel motor, and the faster it runs or slows down, will change the frequency output. The mechanical governor on the motor tries to maintain a constant RPM. Petrol generators have poor torque compared to diesel, so the frequency can vary more under changing loads, but this should not cause your microwave clock to go so far off. As others have suggested maybe something is loose or faulty on the generator, and causing all kinds of spikes and dirty power. Get someone with an oscilloscope to check the output under load.

You can never have too many panels, especially in bad weather. 😄 The more batteries and panels you can afford, the merrier you will be. 👍

You seem to have a low usage, so put everything on essential, and like you suggested, use a CBI Astute to control the geyser with its timer and real-time control on the app. Welcome to the forum, and hope you enjoy your new power system.

Welcome to the forum. Do you have an installed PV system, or hoping to in the future?