Delphinus

Update, some months have passed and now it's easy to have the BMS to talk to home assistant and also control the charge discharge switch to do automations, in cloudy days I charge the cells during night from grid cheaper rate, when I reach the capacity I want it turn off the charge of the battery and turn it back on in the morning. Next step will be to adjust the value using the weather.

I don't need that automation but if need it I can do it, I have JK BMS and with Batmon I can turn off charge and discharge of each battery to automate it. I have been equalizing my bateries and have using this a lot.

It's a good point and I just watch a Solar Integrations comparing 3 ways. I use mobile app and local mode to configure inverter thru wifi without cloud. I automate charge and discharge in the BMS of each battery We have many options in my case I use the KISS method and avoid put extra hardware when I can fill my needs with what I have.

Why do you guys use ESPhome when you can get all the data you need using Solarman integration that works using the wifi Dongle, you will have an update every minute and 55 entities with all the info you need. https://github.com/StephanJoubert/home_assistant_solarman/blob/main/README.md

In case it helps I have the identical inverter from Deye and have 2 strings of 8 x 545W = 8.72kW panels in series and it works without problems, use the biggest serial you can has long you don't go over voltage, I started with a string of 6 panels and after expand to 8 I got 2 more hours of production. This inverter has de DC temperature a bit high and it brings some problems at the max solar power of 6500W in my case even with a fan it goes 50ºC over ambient temperature, what I have done from start was to put a 14cm fan on top of it in the left side over the cylindrical radiator and to reduce the temperature I limit the battery charge first to 75A and now I'm testing 85A, when ambient temperature increase I will probably go back to 75A or even lower. DC temp is the temperature of the internal transformer, the brand recommend to limit the charge to 90A. AC temp is the temperature of the case of the inverter. Unless you have sun and negative temperatures don't worry much with voltage, the MPPT keep it in control, I would worry more with max A of panels. my graphs the V and A are of string 1 and P the sum of string 1 + 2 with the 8.72kW panels

If you have a Seplos you shouldn't have problems because it talk with many inverters, the BMS that I refer were made for auto-caravans, etc, and hope they change it in the future but for now they don't care they can't talk with home inverters. Has long you buy a new generation Seplos you can make them talk. Probably you already know this if not, here it Andy Off-Grid Garage

With your name I suppose we have the same origin. I'm Portuguese. You don't need the same BMS but buy one with Bluetooth that you can manage with mobile, the problem of JK, JB, Daly, Heltec they have a proprietary protocol and to communicate with a Deye or another inverter that use Pylontech protocol you will need a bridge to translate protocols. This not the correct way but you can define the configuration in your inverter for your actual battery and in the bms of the one you build you define the same or a little more conservative value and they will work. Because during the winter I need more power, I mix my AGM with this one and things are running smooth, have the inverter configured to AGM with the values of my LifePo4 with a lower absorption to not cook the lead acid.

Follow Jason post, buying in aliexpress and alibaba is like a casino, you loose and house always win. My initial plan was buying 1 BMS I end with 3, paid extra to receive them from Europe and after 4 times the delivery date had to file a dispute, seller never offer refund, still waiting for aliexpress refund, to have the battery ready bought 2 more to make sure one arrive to finish build. Buy locally even if pay double price you will have local support and be protected in case of something goes wrong, don't assume the price and delivery date advertised in alibaba are what you will pay. Before I buy in nkon.nl I request quotes from several sellers and one maker that advertise they had European stock, no one had it. Brand of cells wanted me to pay in November for items that he told me will leave CN at December 15, contact him last week and replay was that they will arrive in Europe in February. My recommendation is that you buy a finish battery it will be the cheaper and safer option, if you are like me and want to have one build by you go for it but will cost you more. The next battle is to make the JK BMS to speak with my Deye inverter and home assistant.

Thanks for having this forum I'm far so difficult to buy, but for me is the number one forum for the inverter that I use, hope you can keep the good work and manage to keep things running, I know it's not cheap in money and most important you personal time.

I'm in Europe and shipping depend on the number of cells and weight, I paid 60€ and it took about 3 days to arrive to my country

Cells are EVE LF105 Grade A, got them in Europe, no longer in stock but they are now selling also grade B and have good options. EVE LF105 Grade A

The bus bars came with cells, the bigger ones I made them with 20x3mm copper bar, overkill for this but since I need it for another project I didn't want to buy 2 sizes.

They are B2A24S15P-CAN, I only found the 150A in stock and those are perfect inverter can handle 120A so I have a margin even if work with only 1 battery. Had problems with delivery so bought 1 + 2. When I receive first one I build a 2P16 when finish, receive second BMS and separate the build. Ignore the mess of balance wires this is a heavy build for a single person put in the top of closet at 2mt high so the plan was assemble in place. I try to do it with half of cells couldn't lift it was more than 55Kg, finally done it with only 8 cells and still too heavy, close to 40Kg done but hurt my back.

Sorry don't know how to delete message that was in wrong place

For my 32 LF105 I top balance them this way, because the number of bus bar need to connect all in parallel is bigger than the number I had for series I put all I could in parallel and start to charge. My lab power supply has only 10A so I set to 3.55V, for a low cost one probably is better to do it at 3.45 or 3.50V while they were charging I charge one with an ISDT Air8 it's not expensive and do 20A with a 12V 8A DC transformer or a 24V 4A you can fully charge one in 4h, so I manage to charge 5 in the first day, when I had no more singles I removed one at the time from the parallel and top it, if not mistaken it took 4-5 days.

This is not what I had in mind but I need extra energy storage so went with the flow, have the inverter in attic but in summer it gets very hot and EVE LF105 has 4000 cycles at 25º and half at 45º so I decide to put the battery in my office inside a closet and because I have a couple of 4U server cases I build it with one to have a compact build. This are 2 x 5.37Kw independent batteries to have full redundancy. Top and front lid is of to test temperature. If you have any doubt just ask.

Again awesome work.

Awesome and top work, congrats.

Don't connect the bus bars that way you must maximise contact, no angled contacts, bar to cell 1, cell 3 and over them on cell 2, 4.

Those look good but also the ones I bought made in china, I won't repeat that mistake twice, buy good proven ones.

My solar that last less than 60 cycles should provide 600 but data is not true, because I plan to replace them after 1 year I was discharging at 70% to a voltage of 12V before we commit to a battery we should test it or use a reputable brand. The HRC 7 year old battery are working fine so the problem is quality of my solar ones. A good industrial lead acid can last 10 years without problems has long we use one made for deep-cycle, probably I will buy this brand because the ones that I have with 12 years are Exide and still work. The flooded are cheaper but have smell and maintenance Those are great for warm places

Guys for those who have each type I would like to know your opinion. I start my system with low quality small solar AGM with the plan of replacing them after one year but shortly I realize that I need more because the manufacturer wasn't honest about the capacity, meanwhile I had friends with AGM for UPS that don't need them and I decided to mix and they worked very well, so well that 90% of my energy came from them. - My solar deep cycle brand new 2022 build were toasted after 2 months holding at most 50% - AGM from Schneider UPS bought 5 years ago and stored without use or maintenance for 2 years, are in 100% state after 3 cycles. - AGM from another UPS decommission after 10 years of use and stored without maintenance for 2 years are now at 60% after 2 cycles. Since in my country there is no stock for LiFePO4, prices are increasing and warranty for China products is a myth I start to look for industrial wet lead acid because with them I know what I'm buying, the initial investment will be 50% less and they will last over 10 years. My only 2 concerns are the smell and weight, but I have place for them that is well ventilated. On the other side I see in alibaba good prices for LiFePO4, but I know that there is no warranty and will get used or B , C grade.

Weco advertise 100% DOD, there are no magic cells, before they also advertise active balancing but after some tear-down they change it to real time balancing. We shouldn't buy from brands that lie to to deceive the less informed.

Can we have a photo of the inside and battery?

I'm new to this excelent forum and since I use AGM bateries having LiFe will be a big plus, the product looks solid but "Depth of discharge: 95.00 %" means they use magic cells, 1.5C it's nice if you are like my wife that cooks with 2 electric ovens but she cook for more than 5 minutes, makes no sense to me spoil a good meal and at same time overheat the cells. One member ask the BMS software but how a brand can warranty a product and at same time give a user the means to damage it?