anthonyhugo

thanks! i'll check this much appreciated

thanks! i'll check this much appreciated

Do you have solar Assistant connected to both inverters, not just the master?
I am also puzzled as to why you discharge and charge you're batteries if you can export to the grid, unless this is to offset higher charge rates at peak times?
 

First thought is that the CT coil could have been fitted the wrong way around during the upgrade installation.

Was your first inverter (with the CT coil) made Master, and the new inverter made slave?

If the new inverter without the CT coil was made master, this would have caused confusion, as the master must have the CT coil. 👍
Another query, on the inverter displays, is the  Grid used (Paid) and Grid exported (Sold), correct or also mixed up?

@anthonyhugo,
I'm sure those Batteries will out supply the inverter. So nothing to worry about there. You need to just be aware that the 8kW is only applicable when there's another source of energy, e.g. Solar. So at night, with Load shedding, you will only be able to draw +- 6.5kw (Mine trips at 128A from the battery).
It looks like your CT coil is in the right place, it should be before your non-essential load as seen from the grid side. Test it. Switch on the pump, and observe the PV production, your PV production should rise by an additional 4kW. If not enough PV, the balance will be drawn from Battery/Grid, depending on you settings

Most welcome,
One additional consideration: tripping can also be triggered by the battery exceeding it's rating/settings: the fault reported on the inverter when tripping will tell you whether it's a DC overcurrent (battery) or an AC overcurrent (inverter). If you share your battery model numbers we can check that your battery bank can handle the full 8kW.

Looks perfect.
And correct, Essential (plus SmartLoad/Aux if applicable, though not in this case) exceeding the rating is what will cause tripping. (So your 'A' is all that matters here).
 
Non-essential will just be supplemented by grid when exceeding the max; but with the CT in place and zero-export enabled, any excess solar will still power it - so win-win.
 
 
 

If moved correctly, it should show as a contribution to the figure above the house-icon load (instead of to the UPS load which is where it would've been before.)
 
Correct, this is beneficial since it still allows you to run the  pool load off excess solar (via zero export to CT) without worrying about tripping your inverter.
 
If you want to test for certain, power off your main house breaker(s) and see if the pool stops running when the inverter kicks in.

Ho guys, the way I "attached" it to my inverter was to print these 2 brackets and glue them to the fan enclosure (using my wife's nail glue haha)
 
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6058451
 
Then on top of these 2 brackets I just put a scuba diving weight, it creates a cradle of sorts to put the weight, then this just sits on top of the inverter...
 
Please don't judge my rudementary 3D design skills too harshly lol, I'm very noob at this
 
(apologies don't have photo will try get one)
 
Cheers
Ant

Sunsynk 5kw with BSL 5kwh Slimline and 6 x 550w panels. New BSL has a 15 year warranty and 8000 cycles at 80% DOD. 6000 cycles at 100% DOD

Another 12kW 3 phase UPS installed. No panels but just a backup supply. More battery storage to follow in the coming months. 

Hi Guys, 
Just put together a little cabinet to power my office and a couple other items during load shedding... We live in a rental so didn't want anything permanent, so hence going for the cabinet route. Another route could be to build a frame, did that at my In laws. (Pictures also attached) 
 
Used the Following incase anyone else wants to ever do the same; 
https://www.securityandmore.co.za/products/must-3kw-60amp-mppt-solar-hybrid-inverter?variant=44059073446120 https://www.securityandmore.co.za/products/esener-25-6v-100ah-lithium-battery?variant=43940424548584 https://www.securityandmore.co.za/products/must-wifi-dongle-for-must-and-esener-inverter?variant=44301294010600 https://www.securityandmore.co.za/products/battery-cable-35mm-1m-red-and-1m-black-with-lugs?variant=44308889075944 https://www.takealot.com/finen-6u-wall-mount-network-cabinet-600-x-600-mm/PLID73146830 https://www.takealot.com/linkbasic-300mm-front-mount-tray-for-19-inch-rack-mount-network-/PLID65844719 A plug, some caster wheels and good to go.  So as the picture show all is installed and working ran yesterday a load of around 200w for about 7 hours before i decided that was enough testing and plugged it in. So it works...
I have set the inverter to a user defined battery (Setting 14), Bulk to 28.4v (17), Float to 27.2v (18) and Cut off to 22.8v (19), as per recommendation from Esener, I see some sheet floating around with those numbers on, has anyone found other voltages to work better for this battery?
Now, what would be the best way for me to monitor the realtime SOC of the battery? Is my only option with what equipment i have a coulometer like below? (https://www.geewiz.co.za/batteries/193941-100a-coulometer-battery-capacity-tester-for-getting-accurate-reading-of-battery-percentages-with-shunt.html?sfdr_ptcid=2961_617_695133571&sfdr_hash=3022186506446a8f268ea0da84fdda22&gclid=CjwKCAjwhJukBhBPEiwAniIcNR7YiP8N_LNG0fT_4SwwbC5D9oK-A3c6Fn_31r3E5exKlwELcINbjxoC_xgQAvD_BwE)
Now with the inverter charging the battery the charging light flashes yellow while its charging, but I haven't seen it go off, will the setup constantly "charge" once it hits float? or should the charginig light stop or go solid? 
 
Thanks Guys

Hi all just to report back, all my issues seem to be sorted now and was as a result of a loose connection on the busbar between batteries and inverter! eish!
We now double checked all connections and added new washers on both sides of the lugs to hopefully prevent this (I think they're called serrated star washers)
My installer will have a stern talk to he's team, we're all human after all and mistakes happen, I'm just grateful this didn't cause a fire or damaged our equipment (it seems)
Thanks
Ant

The big toys arrive next week Wednesday. Should be great fun...The inverter & Batteries. All panels laid.

So, my install was done yesterday
 
Summary:
1 x 5kW Sunsynk Inverter and
14 x 455W JA Solar panels
2 x Hubble AM2 batteries (another one planned for)
Installation took appx 6 hours and I'm very happy with attention to detail that team applied, to the DB as well as what's "hidden" the trunking and main DB.
Lessons learnt (if anyone else ever encounters a similar situation):
We had issues with the inverter "tripping" with a F20 (overcurrent) error intermittently. This happened on and off without a definite idea of why it was happening. No issues at night and the house was running off the batteries fine through the night. This morning, Leshen checked on the system and at around 10am the error started popping up non-stop. The inverter would trip (power ironically stayed on in the house), and alarm for 2/3 minutes before going back to normal. it would run alright from 1minute - 10minutes and trip with the same error. Leshen came over and did some investigation. Finally, there is only one SPD installed in the DB with both Negative poles of the PV string connected to one SPD. Leshen then connected each String to its own SPD, and it's solved the problem (touch wood)! 
 
I want to thank @Leshen and his team again. The Customer service really is great! Also thank you to Steve of PowerStore for supplying the equipment.

All done and running beaut. Cleaned up the cabling on the batteries a bit and looks real neat now. Very happy. 

I've been participating quite regularly on the forum for a short while now, but earlier this week I finally got my setup installed and comissioned.
Some information:
Sunsynk 8kW Inverter 2 X Greenrich WM5000 wall mount batteries 10 X Longi 555W panels, all facing north. I was originally planning on going 6+6, with one string facing north and another facing east/west due to size constraints on my north-facing roof. But the installers managed to fit 10 on the north facing roof alone, and we reckoned 10 facing north is better than 6 facing north and 6 facing east/west. I was considering buying 8 more, and put another 10 on the other roof so that I can use the other MPPT as well, but that might come in the future, pending my actual usage patterns.
Solar generation is good so far, and in fact it seems over specced. On sunny days I have this large notch in the middle of my PV graph. The batteries are recharged by 10h, and the rest of the day's loads are quite low. 
I have my geyser connected to the inverter Aux port, as a semi-critical load. I'm still playing around with the settings to find the most optimal configuration, but so far it seems like it's working. I've made another post explaining how I set things up. I reduced the geyser element to 2kW, so that when it runs it can run 100% off solar. I don't want to cycle my batteries during the day for hot water. The geyser thermostat is also set as high as it can go, so that it can act like a thermal battery of sorts, taking up more of that sunshine if the rest of my loads don't call for it.
Total outlay was just north of R200k. I purchased the expensive equipment myself (inverter+batteries+pv), and contracted an installer to do the actual installation for me.

Oops - misread original post - thought it was the battery terminal.  But the principle still holds.  The torques you quoted are for through-bolted busses. Threaded busses as often used in solar installations will have lower, product specific, torque specifications.
But the principal is still the same - never exceed the rated torque. Once you hit the plastic limits of the threads, you lose clamping force dramatically.  Manufacturers specify maximum torque values for a reason.

Rather RTFM - torque value depend heavily on the material you are bolting into - there is no 'one size fits all' rule you can use.  For inverters it is usually a fairly soft copper fitting, and generally requires lower torque than grade 4.8 fittings.
My Deye manual specifies M10 with an absolute max of 24.5 N.m (yours may differ).
Probably the most common repair Deye does in South Africa is replacing stripped terminals caused by installers who know better than the manual.
Also primary current path is the clamping area between the lug and the bar - and this is based on copper to copper, with thin, clean tin plating on both surfaces.  Never include a washer - especially not a steel washer, as it will result in long term corrosion and a fire risk. Remove the star washer and carefully dress any burrs caused by its use before refitting with only one lock washer on the outside, and the correct torque as specified in your manual.

Hi all just to report back, all my issues seem to be sorted now and was as a result of a loose connection on the busbar between batteries and inverter! eish!
We now double checked all connections and added new washers on both sides of the lugs to hopefully prevent this (I think they're called serrated star washers)
My installer will have a stern talk to he's team, we're all human after all and mistakes happen, I'm just grateful this didn't cause a fire or damaged our equipment (it seems)
Thanks
Ant

Very good outcome here @anthonyhugo. Your attitude is spot on. You didn't get any damage and for that you are fortunate. The solar installation game is very technical & can at times be pressurised on a site. We are all human & being human comes with Errors and emotions & lots of good and bad things. 

Glad you got a favourable outcome. 

Good for you to have all issues sorted. 
Actually one should not have a washer between the contact of busbar/battery and the lug as the washer is not a good conductor of current and will lead to heat and another bad connection. 

Hi all just to report back, all my issues seem to be sorted now and was as a result of a loose connection on the busbar between batteries and inverter! eish!
We now double checked all connections and added new washers on both sides of the lugs to hopefully prevent this (I think they're called serrated star washers)
My installer will have a stern talk to he's team, we're all human after all and mistakes happen, I'm just grateful this didn't cause a fire or damaged our equipment (it seems)
Thanks
Ant