Eurard

The first buy every month includes a 55rand service fee. This is what they want. So just buy 60 rand each month

Okay to summarize:
FS-1007, Sunmagic, Sunpro8048
 
With comms port in RJ45 format, connecting wifi via wifi dongle with R232 (DB9) connector.
 
See attached picture indicating which RJ45 wire goes to which R232 connection.
I added the +vcc (Thanks Modina - superstar), to the pic as that was what caused me grey hairs.
End result, datalogger works perfectly!
Last pic, neatly found a home.

Who in their right mind want to do a 1c discharge, thats dumping 5kw in an hour, and I hear you, just for a couple seconds to test, to me the same as buying a new car and testing the top speed of 250kmh.
The very most Ive ever done is about 0.3c.
Im sure it can do it just fine but aint gonna test it, no need to.

When in loadshedding, we dont go over 800w. Just adapted to do this, doesnt mean we are limited to that.
 
We have a 8.5kva
 
But one time my son started the toaster etc while on battery, no issues.

Ive got 8x620w and 4kw round about is my max now. Roughly 80%
 
Ive seen earlier last month 4.3kw so Id say ... Wait for the sun to raise up more.
 

First signs of something wrong is when you notice Ghosting or a floating Neutral.
Look for some low wattage LED's etc lights.
When Eskom is off, and you notice a very faint glow even when the light is off, it means that power is somehow being fed to it at a low voltage, too low to light it up, as if it was on.
I have always had this and never knew why, until I became familiar with the issue.
I tested the Voltages from my inverter out L/N and Earth, when Eskom was on and when it was off, any boom. Yup confirmed. When Eskom was on there was Zero Voltage from my inverter out between N and E, but the moment we went to load shedding, I had a 82V reading, as well as a 132 V reading between L and E.
Voltages from Mains when Eskom was on was L-N (230V), L-E (230V) and N-E (0V), same with the inverter output when not load shedding.
After the neutral earth bond relay was connected, the readings are now the same whether Eskom is on or off, meaning when we are load shedding, I have my bonded Neutral Earth back, and readings between Inverter Out N and Earth is 0V.
and you guessed it, that faint glow from the LED lights are gone, all good.
 
I actually noticed this at my neighbour as well when we were load shedding and their outside external LED security lights at 5pm (before they come on) were faintly glowing.

If you look at the logo, Conderergy and Conderenergy has the same logo, although Conderenergy doesnt feature the smaller batteries on their site, only the 48V SVOLT one, and from this is rebranding - The SVOLT rebranded as Conderenergy. So I dont know which battery the smaller one is a rebrand of.
All I do know is that my mother has one , 24V 100ah and so far so good.
I personally have the 51.2V SVOLT one and I also don't have any complaints, early days though.
I also see that Leroy Merlin has some conderergy panels, and those are also not on the conderenergy website, so my guess is not all their products are listed there.
 
I do see the trademarks:

Hi @Eduard this is very well done , thanks for your support !

Good news, it must also be said that if the person at the other end is competent like you then it makes life an order of magnitude easier. 

Just as a follow up, all ghosting gone! Thanks again @BritishRacingGreen

Just as a follow up, all ghosting gone! Thanks again @BritishRacingGreen

Tested all now and .... Drum roll .... Eskom off, L-N 230V, L-G 230V, E-N 0V

Thanks, if you create a nice slide thats wonderfull. We are here to support and share, thats the spirit. 

Dude you are a BLOODY legend! I will drink that beer with a smile!
I will finalize, need to go get some lesser sized wires, for final step. I have enough for Inverter to kilppon but need from klippon to Load neutral bar.
 
I cannot thank you enough and with your blessings I will make a slide that details these steps for other users and future use.

Dude you are a BLOODY legend! I will drink that beer with a smile!
I will finalize, need to go get some lesser sized wires, for final step. I have enough for Inverter to kilppon but need from klippon to Load neutral bar.
 
I cannot thank you enough and with your blessings I will make a slide that details these steps for other users and future use.

My setup is quite unique as well as my mains ac goes to a breaker, then through a smart switch, then through a over under breaker and then to inverter.
The AC from mains to A1 and A2 was taken from output of the over under, so that it incorporates all protective devices. I have so much protection it isnt even funny lol.

Yes, but one last test for safety and the good order:
1. Switch grid off and measure between A1 and A2 that there is nothing. 
2. Test for continuity between A1 and klippon L, N and E respectively. You should have open circuit. 
3 repeat test 2 but from A2 terminal. 
If all goes well, conclude by wiring in your inverter output and load netral and earth. Remove relay while doing so. 
4. Switch inverter on and test if your loads respond.
5.insert relay. 
6 switch on grid
7. Di your bonding test when both in grid and islanding mode. 
8 have beer

Hello, so the solution to your problems is very easy.
1. Setup your battery in your inverter by Voltage, NOT by SOC. Unplug the comms cable to the BMS. Check the manuals of your battery for the recommended battery voltage settings for Bulk, Float and Equalization voltages and program that into your inverter. 
2. Ensure that you fully charge your batteries every now and again. That is what the "Equalization" function in your inverter can be used for. On the Deye/Sunsynk inverters you can program it to do equalization every x number of days. I would say once every 3 or so days. This ensures the battery gets fully charged and whatever voltage "drifting" that happened in the last 3 days has been rectified.
Once you do the above two steps you will no longer have the issues you are describing. Thank me later.

UPDATE: So I see your battery manual only states the Max Charge Voltage as 56V. I did check and they use LFP type cells, so it would be safe to assume the best voltages for your battery should be:

Float V: 53.6
Absorption V: 55.2
Equalization V: 55.2
Shutdown V: 47
Low Batt V: 48
Restart V: 52

Absolutely, I just want to fix it for now and current inverter. I have too many things that needs money, gas geyser, next week, etc, so with this inverter still working, I wont replace immediately.

The relay front image is as clear as mud 😁

Then you will not need the box, it will have bonding built in. Let me ask, what is it you need to solve as we speak? The existing inverter? 

Yes, zero effect.