rgt.dnl

More on this - Others experiencing the same

Mine does it is as well from time to time, last 3 days ago. No cause for concern. A guess is it's not happy with some aspect of the quality of power coming in and disconnects until it's happy again

Success! Finally. I bought another splitter and did not do anything to it. Instead, I used insulation tape to cover the pins not needed (1,2,3,6,7,8) for the CAN comms on the cable coming from the battery. So only pins 4&5 exposed on RJ45 network plug end (battery to inverter network cable). See attached image. Confirmed both are reading and connected (see attached)
Thank you to all of you for your brilliant ideas and being so generous with your knowledge and advice 



UPDATE: If you want a clean solution,  Solar Assistant now sells a specialised splitter - https://solar-assistant.io/shop/products/deye_rj45_split

@rgt.dnl I created my own template sensor that sums the data from two arrays and adjusted how the attributes are created. If you are using the default integration sensor then replace the filters for each entity in the graph 
filters: - fn: | ({meta}) => ({ xs: meta.wh_period.map(({ start }) => new Date(start)), ys: meta.wh_period.map(({ value }) => value), }) with
filters: - fn: | ({meta}) => { const entries = Object.entries(meta.wh_period); const xs = entries.map(([start, _]) => new Date(start)); const ys = entries.map(([_, value]) => value); return { xs, ys }; } I've updated the code on GitHub 

No. You take the VoC of 45.7 x 12 and you are over the max voltage of your inverter of 425v recommended.
You should use 2 strings of 6 panels each. Use both MPPTs. 

It does not matter what the cells are, the only thing is to use the same voltage and number of cells.
As far as I know all the sunsynk batteries are 16 cell models so any one will work as extra batteries to expand your bank.
The AH or kWh capacity does not matter you can have any size mixed and matched as long as they are ALL the same voltage and number of cells.

Important point about load shifting from TaliaB.
You total load is very low.   In the heaviest month you only used 13kWh per day! Your weekly load for most weeks would not look out of place if they were daily load numbers. 
You either have a small household or the geyser and/or oven are using something else like gas.
For that reason, I'd careful not to overcapitalise on savings you could achieve. If there is any scope to moving any power using activities to daytime, I would look at that first. Ironing, geyser, washing, anything like that, that can be moved to the day. If you have not done so, change the inverter setting to let your battery discharge more in the evening.
What you want to do is to give the panels more work to do while the sun is shining.  From your installed capacity and your load, you should not be using any grid power for most days of the year.
 

Thanks @Sc00bs actually, I got what i needed out of two of the helper sensors which I renamed to make more sense for my use case -
I basically used the following which seems to be enough for me. 

(Yes, something wrong with IAMMETER reading. Not sure why.)

Thanks for sharing the link. This seems to be one of the better resources that unlike some are not as pessimistic for winter yields and close to my actuals. 
I like the 42 places listed on the same page. 

@Antonio de Sa, @zsde, @WannabeSolarSparky, @Mauritius B Thank you. This is brilliant. I have some work to do to understand all of this relative to my setup and all the guidance here is very much appreciated. Thanks.

@Antonio de Sa, @zsde, @WannabeSolarSparky, @Mauritius B Thank you. This is brilliant. I have some work to do to understand all of this relative to my setup and all the guidance here is very much appreciated. Thanks.

@Antonio de Sa, @zsde, @WannabeSolarSparky, @Mauritius B Thank you. This is brilliant. I have some work to do to understand all of this relative to my setup and all the guidance here is very much appreciated. Thanks.

@zsde I quote you.--- The danger there being that in cloud edge or cold conditions you may produce more than the rated MPPT values.
Here is exactly what you mention regarding cloud edge, yesterday my system 12 X 440 W panels for a short while produced over 5 Kw 
 

This is the nominal power value under STC (Standard Testing Conditions) meaning 1000w/m2 and 25ºC. If the irradiance is lower or the temperature of the cells is higher, the panel will not produce the same power.
Usually, you never get maximum power in summer because the cells get very hot. It is easier to get maximum power in spring and fall or just after a cloud edge. Sometimes you may even see power values exceeding the maximum nominal if the weather is cold and sunny.

You can view the expected irradiance levels here:
https://en.tutiempo.net/solar-radiation/cape-town.html
You can use that and then calculate to your panels to find the closest to forecast real world expectations.

The inverter is specified to take up to 6500W of solar panels. The "cleanest" would be to add more of the same 505W panels as you have now and arrange it as 6 per MPPT.
It is not necessary to balance the MPPT's.
There are I suppose different views on whether you could/should exceed 6500W, or whether you could/should exceed 3250W per MPPT. Personally I stick to the dataplate on my own inverter, but others may differ.
It's possible to add different panels, but ideally the voltage and more so the current specs should be a close match.

That's awesome @rgt.dnl glad you got it to work 🙂 
I am no programmer and usually have to rely on Chatgpt for bad programming advice, lol 

Success! Finally. I bought another splitter and did not do anything to it. Instead, I used insulation tape to cover the pins not needed (1,2,3,6,7,8) for the CAN comms on the cable coming from the battery. So only pins 4&5 exposed on RJ45 network plug end (battery to inverter network cable). See attached image. Confirmed both are reading and connected (see attached)
Thank you to all of you for your brilliant ideas and being so generous with your knowledge and advice 



UPDATE: If you want a clean solution,  Solar Assistant now sells a specialised splitter - https://solar-assistant.io/shop/products/deye_rj45_split

Success! Finally. I bought another splitter and did not do anything to it. Instead, I used insulation tape to cover the pins not needed (1,2,3,6,7,8) for the CAN comms on the cable coming from the battery. So only pins 4&5 exposed on RJ45 network plug end (battery to inverter network cable). See attached image. Confirmed both are reading and connected (see attached)
Thank you to all of you for your brilliant ideas and being so generous with your knowledge and advice 



UPDATE: If you want a clean solution,  Solar Assistant now sells a specialised splitter - https://solar-assistant.io/shop/products/deye_rj45_split