Colin Says

These are my thoughts and Reading through youre original question and situation. You are buying 2nd batteries because of affordability and maybe availability - I know the feeling. My initial install started with a 24V Axpert inverter and 2 x Telco 2nd life batteries I picked up. And luckily they gave me a good 3 years +. {being totally off grid) When I started you could not buy panel combiners and battery isolators etc off the shelf, and Lithium were not even in SA My 2nd replacement set made me realise why the original owner needed to sell them, forcing me to acquire a tester to show soh/soc. Being able to read the batteries abilty is really needed. ! Shorting the terminals is not the test ! Now being out of money and a system working partially into the evening - I split my circuit. Added in a cheap PWM charger and ran in parallel with inverter, using my first set of batteries (in parallel) to give a 12V circuit. And this handled my security side and a bit more. Cameras / Router / 12V LED lights and now SV smart switches straight off the battery. Now I could switch on and off the inverter and lights from remote location. And Ohms law 50W of devices on a good 100 Ahr battery should last 25 hrs. BUT the rules change with batteries in unknown. In Youre situation I think you can afford to take 1 panel off each series string and seperate youre circuit. 7 panels in series totals 280V maybe too much. Then - do you need 48V 6 KW system or could you swap youre inverter to 24V 3KW. With this you could now rotate batteries to find the most reliable ones. and really when desperate 24V of batteries is easier to get to when failing. Bottom line and lessons learnt, one bad cell pulls a battery down, and one bad battery pulls a string down. And when a bad battery is under charge or being equalised will read its voltage, as the other cells are over bubbling. But then off charge it idles - takes a load and collapses. And at a temp of zero - it just collapses faster.

Item: Kodak AKA Pylontech Usage: To Build up a battery bank - The Spare parts/Repairs My View/Understanding : Control unit to add on multiple 3.5KVA battery banks Max 7 Age:Not sure Shelf Price seen around R7000,00 Asking price : Offers around R1800.00 Payment Method Accepted:EFT/COD Warranty:None known of Packaging:Original packaging (open unit) Condition:Unused - Original Location: Jhb North Eastern suburbs Reason:Bought in error - I thought it came with 1 x Battery bank Shipping: Use of Courier Collection: Accepted/prefered Link: Advert with Specs https://www.pikaled.co.za/product/kodak-force-l1-bmu-with-base/ Required battery https://www.pikaled.co.za/product/kodak-force-l1-li-ion-battery-35kg/ https://www.apexmart.co.bw/shop/l1-batt-kodak-3-55kwh-battery-force-l1-li-ion-6527?product=product.template(6527%2C)

DMAC took advantage and collected them - Gone

DMAC took Advantage - Good luck and I hope they work for you

Ive had a desire (Not the time) to get into home automation, read my batteries and communicate with my inverter, so started researching, and thanx to this forum found some answers and how to. So I pulled out my Link sprite, bought some Tuyo switches, a bit of zig bees, mixed in my 403 Mhz and 433 Mhz's, dusted off my arduino and looked for Raspberry Pi, No one had stock, and the ones that had 2nd hand were asking prices double the value. Everything went into a bag, and thrown into my sock drawer. New hobby..... I started looking for a 3d printer, and bang found raspberry Pi 4 back in stock at the PiShop.co.za. I await my delivery and ....... more time

I Dun this

Hi also have an interest, are they available ?

Hi Stefan, At the moment I dont't know where this is going to go. The guys who supplied them seem to have a want or need if being usable. Cant make promises for now.

This Particular battery was 12 V when received, on average the cells read 3.0V. So my next thing is to charge the individual cells to see their ability. Other battery packs are between 6.0V and 10V. My Next thing is to look for a tester/meter that can give me more informative results. SOH/SOC/AH/ not just Volts and Percentage. My readings tell me of a Raspberry Pi device. Ill post in classifieds. The Battery as a complete unit is rated 55 AH . Total of 8 cells packed 4s2p. So 3.2v x 4 =12,8V and 4AH x 2 = 8AH. BODMAS not working here ? Thanx for the input I think even those Lithium packs at Builders/Leroys/China are rated 9 to 12AH, but yes packed in the std 7ah housing.

I have the VZ-3524P-FS Manual , which model are u wanting ?

Please specify the Model, I can help with VZ-3524P-FS Manual

Hi Johan I am stuck with same problem on FiveStar VZ-3524P-FS inverter : Read in posts to use 1. The software Licence No 511C1-01220-0100-478DF2A (Seems to be generic) 2. Administrator 3. Serial number of Inverter All have failed My second is I can not communicate inverter to the Fivestar 24/100 battery : And I can not find the pin outs for the inverters RS485 port. I have got the Pinouts for the battery, and the supplied straight through network cable does not work.

Waiiiit. RJ45 - Once a standard for cat 5 Network communication. Then adding Power over ethernet added, Now rs232 then RS485 then Can-Bus then remote switching, then combinations of RS232/RS485/Canbus and seeing positive +12V and or +5v . all in a 8 wire termination. And I still dont understand Earting (1 wire) on a DC system

While we do live in a city with various trees and shrubs and Roses, we gotta look back and appreciate that JHB is the biggest urban forest that we/ancestors have created for shade and wind breakers. In youre banner pic shows trees going up to roof height. but not showing the taller ones shadowing on youre panels 80 % maybe. Were we right then to plant trees, as it once was grassland. Or are we right now to utilise the sun. ? Its a big, big thing as to growing vegetables hydroponically, and growing vertically. I made a decision going solar, and I live on one of those Jacaranda streets. Having that and a Lovely Palm decided Solar. And was lucky enough to cut my Jacaranda before it become a heritage/protected tree. I dont have to clean up after it any more. My plum tree now fruits. Not sure by "might help someone" Oxygen? Plants use it ? And give it ? Walk into a room of a herbal grower. Its hard to breathe after half an hour. So is the Tigo TS04 optimiser realy necessary.?.

Questions related : The guys with the green/blue and black/white cards doing solar installs will leave the industry as the roofs are full. The Gents with the COC's being paid the 3K to sign off . The Pros will continue to fault find. Guys come down from suntanning into the automotive industry - or do the mechanics have their chance of industry Waste management are you ready ? as this gets dumped ? Where do I go from here: Ive got a welder that can do 18650 batteries, but not for busbars this thickness. So do I drill and tap Ive got a capacity checker that gives me a percentage of charge, but does not give me soc and soh or resistance, or the mAH capabilities.: Not finding it available in SA. OR are these cells just not re-usable ?

The BMS is my big dissapointment, I really was expecting to find Huge meat, watercooled system (Daly style), but I got this. (Dala style) Where do I go from here.... Are these cells a different manufacture Deep cycle to crank to golf cart Individually : Can it be recharged, checked for the bad cells and repurposed for solar use ? - or tell the company "you're problem to dispose", because repair is virtually impossible. Although the one battery supplier said he 'knows a guy' "Of Course - I replied" In this pack i found 2 cells bad - but it is packed 4s2p - so maybe 1 is faulty and destroying its partner. Looking up the battery replacement i found 1000 Euro +/- R20K replacement value. Please flush my oil.

Eventually everything pulled apart to get an inventory of Busbars - Plastic Housing - Al filler plates on side - BMS - Relay AND LifePo4 labelled 4AH 220705 63536 Google that and came up with nothing

The top plastic housing was held in place by the Busbars, which must have been welded to keep everything closed. The BMS nicely tucked away into a compartment. And I was hoping to keep the casing whole. But after stretching away the busbar and cutting the top plastic, nothing would move around or drop out. So I i Had to cut away the four sides, and eventually the glued base.

The first thing was to test the volage of the different units. But on the terminals there was no voltage. Zero. No Resistance. So I looked into the Com port. Which I thought was RS485/Can/ or similar, but turned out to be a sense wire to activate a relay. Further in it showed the busbars and housing for the BMS. ???? Now those BMS wires are realy thin ????? Okay is it only a crank battery, and the rest of the internal electronics relies on the alternator. And this only gets or needs a trickle charge.

I was lucky enough to pick up some Car Lithium crank Batteries, So I done what I think we all do, get some information. Google showed a guy cut the casing on a table saw. His end result showed the content of lots of thin film stacked on top of each other seperated by a bit of copper or Aluminium. This being unusable, and hit the trash bin. Then I ran around to a few battery suppliers. But did not get the answer of its contents. They looked like I felt. Numb and dumb. The good answer/Question I got was that they could not accept them as they are not Recycleable, and there is no proper waste disposal in place....... So I did it, cut them open and I hope I can share my findings. I cut it open

Follow : Advert in Classifieds Section, Willing to give away the circuit boards on its own

Units : x3 Age: Looks New Price: Swap Payment Method Accepted: EFT Warranty: None Packaging: None Condition: Unable to test Location: Linksfield Johannesburg Reason: Auction buy Shipping: Can be arranged @ Cost to purchaser Collection: Yes Communication : Whatsapp prefered Link: https://www.livestainable.co.za/product/geyserwise-tse-geyser-timer-and-controller/?gclid=CjwKCAjwjOunBhB4EiwA94JWsP8X8BIoxYlHAQZKdLFtsGAr8FQBD49gUyZXxEj53PPXza8JnRiP_RoCnnIQAvD_BwE These units were bought on auction primarily for the casing, so I can put my projects Ideas into, (And they can explode covered up) So if you willing to replace with a casing of similar size, 150 x 105 x 65 mm you're welcome to take these

I Need to confess, I done a self install 15 to 20 years ago, and components were not readilly available on the shelf then. Working on 24 V. After 3 visits to Joburg for random billing and no ressolve. My decision was . Then Now AC 2,5mm stranded cable running 24V DC for lights replacing cable adding wifi switches Aluminium T-Bolt channeling with self made clamp downs No change still very tight down. Car Fuse Bank as a combiner with 20 Amp Blade fuses Intend to change with lightning protect (????) 120A db Trip switch between battery and Inverter Battery disconnect dble (At a stage I did use AC Isolates) Car Jumper cable ends cut off and soldered Proper DC Cable Crimped But in desperation we do things to achieve security, I'll add my Layout to "Members installs". BUT: I did get my panels North facing On driving around I have noticed some installs with panels 4 West 4 east, and seeing shadowing on both sides at given times. But they do have lovely tall trees, which they are not willing to even trim down yet alone cut out......

I have a TKDZ geyser monitor which takes a 4 pin plug, 2 for temperature and 2 for a 4 bar volume reading. The sensors deterioted and I had in car as a sample, but eventually dissapeared. I am hoping to find a replacement option. It is used primarily as a monitor.