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Thank you for the great forum, Safe Driving over the weekend. Sincerely Jason

Adri

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  1. A very good reply weber and much thanks for it. You're quite right that the right option is to properly balance the batteries with suitable connection philosophy. In my case charge current is mostly less than 10A from either source, and load current is max. 16A ever, so I wonder if my imbalance is SO important in my installation. (Perhaps I'm lazy in my old age..?) I wonder if I alternate the main supply/take-off line from Axpert from first of the two batteries (call it "prime" battery) to 2nd battery ("slave") as internal connection of the 2 x Anderson plugs are parallel-connected inside the battery housing, say, once a week, we may achieve the right balance after some cycles? (Thanks, again.)
  2. When you say 'disconnect' then the charging voltage would be too high, unless you 'retune' the charge system. Or do you mean parallel connected batteries in which case you don't have to worry about 'retuning'?
  3. Yes, Weber, using those same Anderson plugs with 12mm2 cables. One pair direct connection from Batt1 to Axpert terminals = 1.7m. (Added 1.5mm2 wires at each end of the black cables for current reading and a red wire for V for my Mooshi - I can monitor the battery behaviour easily at the kitchen table.) Then same kind cable/Andersons from Batt1 to Batt2 (0.9m). Read your good stuff about the proper way to interconnect, but figured with such heavy cables it may not be necessary. Please correct me if I'm wrong/comment.
  4. I have 2 x AKKUTECH 25.5V 100Ah in parallel using the Anderson "parallel" plug (with 8mm2 cables throughout). Do you think it's necessary to re-wire so that it's according to your idea or can I continue in this way? I would like to balance the cells for longevity. What's your feeling here?
  5. After some more fiddles, settings are now : 2 = 20A 11 = 20A 12 = 25.5 13 = 25.5 26 = 29.2 27 = 29.0 29 = 24.0 ( setup : 4 SolarWorld SP150, AXPERT 1K-24, 2 AKKUTECH 25V 100Ahr) I see battery voltage rises to 29.0V before charge current tapers off [to float value?] but seldom exceeds 29.1V (measured on Mooshi). Now on SOL (setting 01), reads 140W (29.1V, 0A) with fridge load, running, TV, decoder. Am I being risky? Label reads "CC at 0.2C to 28.4V". Are they not deliberately down-specifying as 'excessive protection limit'? I would wonder at what voltage the capacity is measured (100Ah)?
  6. Too little information to help you, e.g. "... wiring in the house was problem", and "batteries don't last 4 hours like they used."
  7. It's a case of six of one and half a dozen for the other.
  8. I have a 4kW "6500" LPG-powered generator for back-up to my PV-batteries-inverter system for 15 years. I've designed and built 14 x PV-charger systems for lead-acid batteries (TROJAN T-105). I have tested at least 20 different charge controllers and inverters. I have now switched to LiFePO4 batteries and an AXPERT 1000/24 controller-inverter which drives fridge, TV, LED lighting during blackouts. I haven't used the genny for 3 years. But, being LPG it's there and waiting, and I can start it in 1 minute. I used the "hot cable"/suicide plug because only the wife home, and I am VERY careful and experienced. I would NEVER suggest others to use it. I suggest a "new user" to evaluate carefully, and particularly to use a proper change-over switch (and to avoid high power junk in the home like microwaves, toasters, kettles, etc), wired by a professional. Start with a good minimum system which is expandable. No system is too small, except that you can do less with it. I have customers who never "expanded" (for financial reasons) but they get by for the 2-hour blackouts. The main trick is the battery capacity. Be sure it seldom/never reaches the 80% capacity point - some folk call it "depth of discharge". This is what kills batteries - the regular/constant draining too much capacity. And in the case of lead-acid, sulphation, and maintaining a full charge. Particularly sealed AGM batteries.
  9. I'm very interested. I don't have anything monitoring my system except a Mooshimeter (MM) to simultaneously show current (bi-direction) and battery volts. (The AUXILIARY VOLTAGE DC = shunt-connected wires directly to MM, about 5mV/A.) This tells me lots but I would prefer to have still more information. Please can you update me about your progress? Thanks, A
  10. I don't understand what I'm being told. Monday 13 Jan.2020 I'm told about 25% of ZA population went back to work, factories started production after the Xmas month break and one scientific journal expected a min. of 28% increase in electricity usage over the December 2019 period. What with wet coal, inferior quality coal and broken conveyors and more bad news, what happened? On Sat. 11 and Sunday 12 Jan.2020 we had two 2-hour blackouts (Durbanville) each but from Monday until now (Wed. 15 Jan.2020) no interruptions at all! What did I miss? Did ESKOM fix everything over the weekend? Or was there some what our brother Donald calls "fake news"? Confused, am I.........
  11. I'm not sure about this Level 6. Does it mean up to 10 hour blackouts/day? How will cell-towers/repeaters handle this? I understood that MTN has back-up for 4 hours. What happens then? Do these towers shut down and then come back when ESKOM returns? It sounds like a major catastrophe to me.
  12. What about this "level 6" which I understand means up to 10 hours per blackout stretch? Does this mean totally uninterrupted blackout for (possibly) 10 hours? Per day? Tomorrow Mon. 13 Jan. 2020 and "start-up" for builders and many workers, factories, etc. If ESKOM is in dire need of 6,000MW this must be the start of total catastrophe. And what about the thousands of cell towers? I understood that they are (battery back-up) equipped to carry phone/data traffic for "up to" 4 hours. What happens next?
  13. Regarding registration I like the rule of : grid-tied, OK grid-free NO
  14. Yes, the yellow/green wire is always metal/ground wire for protection and connect to E (earth). The white & brown wires are floating output. If the gen is fitted with standard ZA 3-pin sockets it must show 230Vac output. His sparkie could verify this quickly using a DMM and a simple load like a standard kettle in a few seconds. If his installation with a standard 63A change-over switch and suitable connector and normal testing he would be able to sign the COC. If the gen is fitted with the standard ZA 3-pin socket it most certainly is set for 230V 50Hz (= 3000 rpm) so no need to worry about re-configuring the alternator connections.
  15. Yes, often. Very often when we believe internet like gospel. Loads of hogwash a lot of the time, e.g. charging batteries off PV at 3 a.m, VOV, VOO, ESCOM's problems will go away, "Batteries at cost price"...... and lots more.
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