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recre8 last won the day on March 3

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  1. Hi @pete boy You can mail service(at)deye.com.cn and provide them with your logger serial number. Also tell them in the email the reason you want it is because of the clipping. Incidentally I noticed on the Sunsynk blog they hired someone as the technical manager of "Sunsynk / Deye SA". Seems like Deye and Sunsynk have the same support channel now? You could maybe message him if you don't manage with the service email address.
  2. Mainly because I had more space to work in the DB board. One thing I didn't like about using the ATS port was that the relay would bridge the earth-neutral bond for any reason in which there would no power on the ATS. So for instance, shutting down the inverter or restarting it, would create the bond despite mains still being present. I also noticed that the ATS takes a minute or two after the inverter starts up. In the end, I just felt like the contactor was a more reasonable approach since I really only want the bond to be made when mains is lost.
  3. Hi @gooseberry I still can’t give a definitive answer that it has been resolved. Been rainy and cloudy in Cape town. But with regards to sunsynk vs deye, they are the same unit for all intents and purposes with different firmware for the user interface. The underlying control firmware is shared by both brands. There was a recent email by Sunsynk welcoming a new staff member: “Jean is the Technical Manager for Sunsynk / Deye SA”, so support on both should be the same. The deye came with a CT clamp with generous length cable, and a wifi module. The sunsynk does too. For earth bonding, I added a Hager contactor to my DB that is powered by mains. When mains is lost, the contactor bridges the inverter neutral to earth. When mains is on, the bridge is broken. I think the contactor was about R500. Everything worked fine without the earth-neutral bridge, but I decided to go that route because I was worried I would fail the CoC.
  4. That’s great news. Was this after a firmware update? Pity there is no public change log or history that we can see what was done in each version.
  5. For comparison, here is a sunny February day (from before the firmware update). Current is clipped like is/was the norm and power maxed out around 2.38kW usually.
  6. Hi @CopperClub According to the datasheet my 450W panels provide about 10.9A maximum with full exposure. Due to the low tilt of the panels, and sun being lower in the sky, I can't really provide proper feedback, but I can say that I saw a peak for the very first time that exceeded 9.9A the other day after the new firmware was applied. Before the firmware, there isn't a single data point above 9.9A. 2.54kW is almost the highest power I've ever had. So I'm inclined to say the firmware definitely did something, but the weather hasn't been playing along well to give a definitive answer.
  7. @drsamuelPreviously had 2155. Upgraded now to 3161
  8. Great! Happy it worked out. Yeah I really like the simplicity of the Force L1. Just stack and connect. Incidentally, what solar panels are you using with your setup? Deye updated my firmware to fix the 11A MPPT issue, but I'm not getting enough sun at the moment to properly test the firmware.
  9. Hey. I use the black CAN cable that came in the battery BMU box. The cable has a round waterproof cap on one RJ45 connector. Connected from either of the BMU CAN ports to the Deye’s CAN port. On the Deye’s battery settings: Lithium, Lithium Mode 00. Let me know if it helps
  10. Are you planning on adding batteries? Because they also take up quite a bit of space. I added three of these cheapie fans with a flimsy 3D printed bracket on top of mine - they are pretty quiet and I've never had the inverter's own fan come on yet. Maybe buy three of those fans and see if they are quiet enough. Other thing to keep in mind is that the inverter's own fan is likely only going to come on during the day when batteries are charging and loads are heavy.
  11. @Salie when you switch on a load that isn’t on the backup port, like the geyser or oven, does the CT value change accordingly on the display? You mentioned a kettle in a prior post, but was this kettle plugged into a socket that is powered by the inverter backup port? Since you are getting CT values, it sounds like the installer put the CT around the wrong cable. It should be on the Eskom mains live cable, but by the sound of it, he placed it on the inverter backup or grid port live cable.
  12. I switch my backup loads over to the LOAD port when needed, so my indicated power on the display is definitely from the CT. Highest I got it to display was about 6kw
  13. I’m not familiar with Shoto batteries but according to this it seems you won’t be able to use comms with the BMS. As for the house power consumption you should definitely be able to see the consumption. Unless you have a very specific requirement where the system is used as backup only etc. It sounds like the CT coil wasn’t installed the right way around or at all. If you don’t see any non-backup load, your grid-tie function won’t work. On the home screen, tap on the grid icon and make sure the “CT” value goes up when you power a heavy appliance (e.g. kettle) that is not on the backup Deye’s backup port. Are AC, DC and Normal LEDs all on?
  14. My 5kW Deye also did this before I connected the batteries. It seems the CT coil readings and monitoring of the grid actually requires the DC bus to be powered by either PV or battery. It still updated fine to Solarman via Wifi, but the there were no grid readings when the DC LED was off. I think this is normal - or at least in the current firmware it is normal.
  15. My install (mostly self-install) is 99% complete now and I would like to get all my paperwork in order to ensure that the my insurance is happy. What documents did you guys send them or keep on you? So far, I'm getting a proper expensive electrician out to do a full CoC to cover all the DB-board work I did and also the PV electrics. ... and that's all I can think of. Is there some SAPVIA or organization's installation certificate required?
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