recre8

I'd say go for it. I have the 100A switch over products from TOMZN and never had an issue. There is a video floating online of the copper braid that they use inside in the conducting path and they look beefy. 

Sorry for reviving this old thread. I noticed that my DB board is also wired with 10mm2 from the 63A mains breaker to the various other breakers. @Jaco De JonghI noticed that you quoted the multicore cable table. Wouldn't this scenario be the single-core table? I'm also concerned that 10mm2 is undersized for 63A, but besides the COC I received with my house, I also had alterations done, and another COC for the house by a different electrician. In fact the second electrician added another MCB or two both also wired with 10mm2.  So it would appear that 10mm2 for 63A in a DB is acceptable?

Here is the table for single core PVC from the regs. I'm assuming inside a DB is method 3 since method 2 is for two wires touching each other in a conduit? Also these tables seem to be for long runs of cable, not the few centimeters inside a DB.
 

For the solarman loggers there is a secret menu where the mode can be switched to station only. 
Access the logger with a browser and log in. Then go to “http://xxxxxx/config_hide.html”
Not sure if the new Sunsynk logger also has this.

I'd say go for it. I have the 100A switch over products from TOMZN and never had an issue. There is a video floating online of the copper braid that they use inside in the conducting path and they look beefy. 

For the solarman loggers there is a secret menu where the mode can be switched to station only. 
Access the logger with a browser and log in. Then go to “http://xxxxxx/config_hide.html”
Not sure if the new Sunsynk logger also has this.

For the solarman loggers there is a secret menu where the mode can be switched to station only. 
Access the logger with a browser and log in. Then go to “http://xxxxxx/config_hide.html”
Not sure if the new Sunsynk logger also has this.

My 5kW Deye also did this before I connected the batteries. It seems the CT coil readings and monitoring of the grid actually requires the DC bus to be powered by either PV or battery. It still updated fine to Solarman via Wifi, but the there were no grid readings when the DC LED was off. I think this is normal - or at least in the current firmware it is normal.

Ah update... did a quick google search. There IS a South African standard (VC8036 / SANS-556-1 Lowvoltage switchgear Part 1: Circuit-breakers) BUT the regulator published an amendment stating that: 
So it seems that as long as you have ISO or EN certification on your switchgear, SABS compliance is implied and the insurance man can't deny your claim based on that.

I have a 5kW Deye that I installed about two years ago. Same internals as the Sunsynk. I could never hear the high pitched noise, but Eskom recently installed split-prepaid meters which use powerline communication (G3-PLC operates on the powerline at 35KHz to 95KHz) to connect the keypad in your house to the actual meter outside in the street, I did some investigating. The noise the inverter creates is so bad that it actually prevents not just my keypad from communicating, but everyone else on the same phase as me while the inverter is connected to the grid.
There is a significant peak at 15KHz which is in the audible rand and is the high-pitched noise everyone is hearing. The inverter also creates harmonics a few orders down, meaning that every 15KHz there is a peak. I am seriously questioning the inverter's NRS certfication which requires harmonics to be with a reasonable range and interoperation with other main signalling devices (such as the Eskom prepaid meter). 
Attached is a frequency domain analysis on the powerline with the inverter on. You can clearly see the harmonics at every 15KHz. Also attached is a frequency analysis in the audible range showing a peak at 15KHz. This was taken in my kitchen where there are no appliances or audio devices that produce sound. 
I contacted the manufacturer regarding the issue and their response after upgrading the firmware was to buy a powerline filter. This shouldn't be necessary if the filtering in the inverter is adequate. Once again, no idea how they achieved NRS certification.

So far so good. Eskom (after EL) is connected a Side-A/primary side. Inverter load (after EL) is connected as Side-B/secondary side to both units. The output of the first is used for my essential loads (lights and one plugs circuit that all my computers and wifi runs off). The second output is used for my non-essential loads (all other plugs circuits). My stove and geyser are left on only Eskom EL power. The non-essential ATS (automatic transfer switch) is set to manual so that I can make sure all power-heavy appliances are shutdown before switching over. The essential ATS is left on auto. The build quality of the product is really not bad, nice and weighty. I wouldn't feel comfortable pulling 100A through one, but in my current arrangement the most they will see is about 30A. I haven't noticed it getting hot at all, but the area where the relays are housed (not the contactor terminals) do get lukewarm.
The transfer time is sufficient that my PC, router and fibre ONT don't restart, but there is sometimes a visible flash on the lights. Automatic switching does make quite a loud noise, understandable given the heavy terminals they use inside and the fast switching time. 
Pro's:
Build quality is better than I expected at this price. Terminals are solid, nice and large, although a cage terminal would have been better instead of a washer terminal. Price can't be beat, and I really couldn't find anything locally that does the same with the same transfer time. The unit is IEC/EN60947-6-1 certified. No SABS stamp obviously, but none of my other MCBs have SABS stamp either.  Switching time is fast enough to keep everything powered without restarting.  The integrated LEDs are very handy and actually suffice the SANS requirement for visual indicators to be used when alternative power is present. ( I actually bought 2x CHINT DIN Rail dual indicators for this, but they will now be repurposed). Con's:

The highlighted part of the unit stand out further (distance from yellow plane to back of unit) than my other MCBs and my specific DB board cover got pushed out of little. A made the flap on the DB board cover that obscured the highlighted part a little bit more flexible to fix the issue. But still, not the same as other MCBs. The width of the unit isn't an exact multiple of 18mm (the width of a DIN "way", so fitting way covers/db blanks means there is a slight gap) Not available locally. Shipping to SA wasn't extremely expensive, but still a three week wait. Some photos of the installation attached.
 
 

Hey. They are still going strong after more than a year. I don't use them to switch daily though, but they do cycle whenever loadshedding hits. Haven't had any issues. Only thing I have noticed is that the green LED isn't as bright as the red one, but that's about it. Otherwise I would recommend them. 

Hey. They are still going strong after more than a year. I don't use them to switch daily though, but they do cycle whenever loadshedding hits. Haven't had any issues. Only thing I have noticed is that the green LED isn't as bright as the red one, but that's about it. Otherwise I would recommend them. 

So far so good. Eskom (after EL) is connected a Side-A/primary side. Inverter load (after EL) is connected as Side-B/secondary side to both units. The output of the first is used for my essential loads (lights and one plugs circuit that all my computers and wifi runs off). The second output is used for my non-essential loads (all other plugs circuits). My stove and geyser are left on only Eskom EL power. The non-essential ATS (automatic transfer switch) is set to manual so that I can make sure all power-heavy appliances are shutdown before switching over. The essential ATS is left on auto. The build quality of the product is really not bad, nice and weighty. I wouldn't feel comfortable pulling 100A through one, but in my current arrangement the most they will see is about 30A. I haven't noticed it getting hot at all, but the area where the relays are housed (not the contactor terminals) do get lukewarm.
The transfer time is sufficient that my PC, router and fibre ONT don't restart, but there is sometimes a visible flash on the lights. Automatic switching does make quite a loud noise, understandable given the heavy terminals they use inside and the fast switching time. 
Pro's:
Build quality is better than I expected at this price. Terminals are solid, nice and large, although a cage terminal would have been better instead of a washer terminal. Price can't be beat, and I really couldn't find anything locally that does the same with the same transfer time. The unit is IEC/EN60947-6-1 certified. No SABS stamp obviously, but none of my other MCBs have SABS stamp either.  Switching time is fast enough to keep everything powered without restarting.  The integrated LEDs are very handy and actually suffice the SANS requirement for visual indicators to be used when alternative power is present. ( I actually bought 2x CHINT DIN Rail dual indicators for this, but they will now be repurposed). Con's:

The highlighted part of the unit stand out further (distance from yellow plane to back of unit) than my other MCBs and my specific DB board cover got pushed out of little. A made the flap on the DB board cover that obscured the highlighted part a little bit more flexible to fix the issue. But still, not the same as other MCBs. The width of the unit isn't an exact multiple of 18mm (the width of a DIN "way", so fitting way covers/db blanks means there is a slight gap) Not available locally. Shipping to SA wasn't extremely expensive, but still a three week wait. Some photos of the installation attached.
 
 

I have a 5kW Deye that I installed about two years ago. Same internals as the Sunsynk. I could never hear the high pitched noise, but Eskom recently installed split-prepaid meters which use powerline communication (G3-PLC operates on the powerline at 35KHz to 95KHz) to connect the keypad in your house to the actual meter outside in the street, I did some investigating. The noise the inverter creates is so bad that it actually prevents not just my keypad from communicating, but everyone else on the same phase as me while the inverter is connected to the grid.
There is a significant peak at 15KHz which is in the audible rand and is the high-pitched noise everyone is hearing. The inverter also creates harmonics a few orders down, meaning that every 15KHz there is a peak. I am seriously questioning the inverter's NRS certfication which requires harmonics to be with a reasonable range and interoperation with other main signalling devices (such as the Eskom prepaid meter). 
Attached is a frequency domain analysis on the powerline with the inverter on. You can clearly see the harmonics at every 15KHz. Also attached is a frequency analysis in the audible range showing a peak at 15KHz. This was taken in my kitchen where there are no appliances or audio devices that produce sound. 
I contacted the manufacturer regarding the issue and their response after upgrading the firmware was to buy a powerline filter. This shouldn't be necessary if the filtering in the inverter is adequate. Once again, no idea how they achieved NRS certification.

I have a 5kW Deye that I installed about two years ago. Same internals as the Sunsynk. I could never hear the high pitched noise, but Eskom recently installed split-prepaid meters which use powerline communication (G3-PLC operates on the powerline at 35KHz to 95KHz) to connect the keypad in your house to the actual meter outside in the street, I did some investigating. The noise the inverter creates is so bad that it actually prevents not just my keypad from communicating, but everyone else on the same phase as me while the inverter is connected to the grid.
There is a significant peak at 15KHz which is in the audible rand and is the high-pitched noise everyone is hearing. The inverter also creates harmonics a few orders down, meaning that every 15KHz there is a peak. I am seriously questioning the inverter's NRS certfication which requires harmonics to be with a reasonable range and interoperation with other main signalling devices (such as the Eskom prepaid meter). 
Attached is a frequency domain analysis on the powerline with the inverter on. You can clearly see the harmonics at every 15KHz. Also attached is a frequency analysis in the audible range showing a peak at 15KHz. This was taken in my kitchen where there are no appliances or audio devices that produce sound. 
I contacted the manufacturer regarding the issue and their response after upgrading the firmware was to buy a powerline filter. This shouldn't be necessary if the filtering in the inverter is adequate. Once again, no idea how they achieved NRS certification.

Yeah, I believe that according to SANS the earth-neutral bond may not be done past the point of supply (i.e. Eskom or municipality). I opted to rather have a contactor in my DB board to do the earth-neutral bond instead of a relay with the inverter's outputs. The contactor closes and bridges earth-neutral whenever grid is lost. 

I'm doing the E/N bond in the main DB. Definitely before any E/L. In my case I bond the neutral of the UPS side of the Deye to earth using a normally closed contactor. My primary reason for this is because I find it neater having a DIN rail mounted contactor in my DB than a relay of dubious origin in the inverter's panel. Secondly, the Deye/Sunsynk only switches off the relay output after it synchronizes to the grid. By default this is 60 seconds after grid is restored. I just prefer not having the earth-neutral bond made for longer than is really necessary. 
Here is a diagram of my DB if helps https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jR_KdiXjaSKleup5vDDYBpVIsFYQQkRp/view
 

I need some advice from you guys about the proper way to install my 2.5kW Solis single phase grid-tie inverter into my DB board. As per the manual, the inverter should be connected in parallel with the mains (before the earth leakage) and preferably through a 2 pole isolator/mains breaker and another MCB limited to 15A.

 
Attached is a photo of my current DB, but I've drawn it as a diagram as well (it's a small townhouse so it's a tiny DB and all circuits are protected by EL). 

 
Is my understanding correct: 
- Label existing half of DB "GRID" and label new breakers with "Alternate Supply"
- Add a new mains-rated breaker (63A 2P). 10mm2 Neutral from neutral bar. 10mm2 Live tapped from Earth Leakage input. Label "Alternate Supply"
- Add new 16A MCB. 10mm2 live tapped from new 63A breaker bottom. Label "Inverter"
- Connect inverter using live from bottom of new 16 MCB. Neutral from neutral bar. Earth from earth bar. Surfix with 2.5mm2 conductors. 
- CT Clamp in seperate conduit to DB clamped around live from prepaid meter before mains breaker. 
Here is the diagram of what I mean

 
A few questions that I have: 
- Only my EL is marked with mandatory direction, the others are all omni-directional. In my DB board, the convention is that the load is connected to the bottom of the MCB. In the case of an inverter, which side is really the load? Should the house mains be connected to the top or bottom of the new MCBs? Does it matter
- Is it really necessary that the new 2-pole breaker be rated at 63A? Since there will only be a single 16A breaker for the inverter connected to it, may it be a lower current rated breaker?
- Is the traditional way to split live to another circuit just to jam another wire into the terminal of a MCB? Seems like it might be difficult to force two 10mm2 wires into that tiny screw terminal. 
- All cables are plastered into the wall without conduit in my house. I'm installing the inverter directly above the DB board. Is there any issue from a  COC-perspective if I chase into wall above the DB and install a conduit. What alternative way is there to get cables into a flush mounted DB?
Hopefully I can get most of the work done myself and get a sparky to come do a COC when all is done and turn it on for me. 
 

Just realized a mistake in my diagram. Neutral can't be tapped from the neutral bar, since this is after EL. Neutral will be tapped from the top-side of the EL breaker.

My 5kW Deye also did this before I connected the batteries. It seems the CT coil readings and monitoring of the grid actually requires the DC bus to be powered by either PV or battery. It still updated fine to Solarman via Wifi, but the there were no grid readings when the DC LED was off. I think this is normal - or at least in the current firmware it is normal.

Your solar system would be of a capital nature so the terminology for individuals work be different. 
Best I can think of right now is to determine the fair wear and tear value and use this as the deduction. 
Example. If your system cost R100k and expected useful life is 10 years,the wear and tear value of R10k per year could be used. Prorated to the square metres of you home office. 
The same can be applied if you had to make any capital investments like renovating to have a home office. 
 
Another option is to look at your total PV production and use the rates charged by municipality for electricity and pro rate for your home office. So if you produced 5MWh for the tax year and 10% is for your home office, then 500kWh*average municipal tariff for your area = tax deductible amount. 

I use this calculator: https://www.solar-wind.co.uk/info/dc-cable-wire-sizing-tool-low-voltage-drop-calculator
Since battery cables seem to just be standard welding cables, attached is a datasheet which on page 3 shows current ratings. Use the 100% duty cycle column. The table shows current rating for 5 minutes of use, so adjust accordingly for cable heating up.
h01n2-d-welding-cable_2.pdf

Hi @pete boy


You can mail service(at)deye.com.cn and provide them with your logger serial number. Also tell them in the email the reason you want it is because of the clipping. Incidentally I noticed on the Sunsynk blog they hired someone as the technical manager of "Sunsynk / Deye SA". Seems like Deye and Sunsynk have the same support channel now? You could maybe message him if you don't manage with the service email address.

Hi @gooseberry
I still can’t give a definitive answer that it has been resolved. Been rainy and cloudy in Cape town.
 But with regards to sunsynk vs deye, they are the same unit for all intents and purposes with different firmware for the user interface. The underlying control firmware is shared by both brands. There was a recent email by Sunsynk welcoming a new staff member: “Jean is the Technical Manager for Sunsynk / Deye SA”, so support on both should be the same. 
 
The deye came with a CT clamp with generous length cable, and a wifi module. The sunsynk does too.
For earth bonding, I added a Hager contactor to my DB that is powered by mains. When mains is lost, the contactor bridges the inverter neutral to earth. When mains is on, the bridge is broken. I think the contactor was about R500. Everything worked fine without the earth-neutral bridge, but I decided to go that route because I was worried I would fail the CoC. 

It looks like the 9.9A issue has been fixed -- see my post here.