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  1. I have 4 x Sonic 250ah 12v Gel/AGM Hybrid Batteries batteries purchased in June 2015 so they are used but do still have some life in them looking for R6000 for all 4 battery stand, galvanised steel, included if all 4 are taken together also have some cables to link them in series on the stand. selling as I upgraded to Pylontechs late last year Collection in Strand (Western Cape)
  2. I've had my new Pylontech batteries, thank you Power Forum Store, for 2 months now and they've been great. My Infinisolar (Mecer branded) has been running in Grid-Tie with Backup mode but with the feed into grid option disabled and I'd set it all up to only use the batteries to feed the load from 19:00 to 04:00 or until the SOC reaches 50% to keep a little in reserve in case of power failure. I'm still tweaking the settings to get it to stop at 50% of actual Pylontech SOC but it's been working okay so far. On Tuesday my new prepaid meter got installed and I had another look at the inver
  3. I wonder if network cable, which is twisted anyway, would work or is the gauge too small? I seem to recall reading on the OpenEnergyMonitor site that they mention using network cable to extend the CTs and temperature probes. Network cable seems to vary from gauge 22 (0.63mm) down to 28 (0.33mm) so possibly could work, you also get STP (Shielded Twisted Pair) that has a nice aluminium shielding to reduce AC cable interference when you need to run a LAN cable next to an AC cable, but then @Stanley mentions the interference should not be an issue anyway so probably not necessary...
  4. Thanks @JustinSchoeman, that's good news, will just need to find a route away from the AC cables which will prove a challenge, but doable...
  5. how far can the CT be run from the inverter? I would need the CT to be about 15m from the inverter to get to the cable between my meter and my non-essential load DB. Would this be doable?
  6. Big thanks to Steve for the efficient and great service and fast delivery... I ordered two Pylontech US3000's and a cabinet for them, got to install them yesterday, now looking forward to using them.
  7. forgot to add the size: 92mm x 92mm x 25mm
  8. So I went rummaging through some stuff and found the old main board and fans from the replacement done in 2019. Here are the specs of the original fans used in the Infinisolar 3kW Plus Make: ADDA Model: AG09212MB257310 Supply Voltage: 12VDC Max curent: 0.3A Air flow: 56.126CFM (82.912m3/h) Fan speed: 3000RPM Duty cycle: 50000H Noise: 36.2dB(A) It seems this particular model is a little difficult to find at the moment, found one on Aliexpress for $47 plus $40 shipping, so I guess I'll try find something close to that spec...
  9. @plonkster, good point there. I originally had the load RCD after the changeover but thought the second RCD in series with the grid RCD was causing/adding to the grid side RCD trips so rewired the output RCD to be before the changeover, thereby only having the one RCD in play at any time. I understand what you're saying about the standing leakage currents so may move the output RCD back to be after the changeover, although I thought the first RCD in the series would typically detect the total leakage anyway, but the "more sensitive" RCD would end up tripping...
  10. so, I've installed a new main switch with overload protection and a new RCD, after the main switch, and connected the inverter grid input from before the RCD and have been running the inverter load for a few days and all seems good now with no more grid side RCD trips. Thank you all for the tips etc... For those new to reading this post, here is my new basic wiring diagram...
  11. Does anyone know the specs of the original fans in the Infinisolar 3kW Plus, specifically the Amp and air flow ratings? I've been looking around for fans, there is a fairly wide range in terms of Amps and air flow and quite a price range too...
  12. The likes of the Mersen and Keto also act as a convenient disconnect (switch) which is useful when attaching the cables to the inverter. When I first did mine I had a good fuse but no switch/disconnect so when I was attaching the cables to the inverter I got a nice arc between the inverter contact point and the bolt with the cable lug as it got close enough, got quite a fright. A battery disconnect is actually a good idea, partly for what I just mentioned but also if you need to disconnect the battery from the inverter for some reason.
  13. ensure your battery cables are correctly rated for the potential current draw, then use fuses rated under the cable spec, so that the fuse(s) blow before the cable heats up and ignites... I believe it's okay to use a single fuse, I have only 1 fuse on my positive battery cable but I'm about to install a 2 pole battery disconnect with fuses on both poles. I've been looking at the Keto (manufactured by Jean Muller) disconnect but also the Mersen Keto - https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=Fuse-switch-disconnector+KETO Mersen - https://www.google.com/search?client=fir
  14. yeah, when I got the inverter back from Mustek and powered it on I immediately noticed the fans were blowing down instead of up, being mounted at the bottom they will never achieve enough trying to suck hot air down. I changed the fans over myself easily enough, but mainly because I wasn't going to take the inverter back to Mustek as I'm sure they would've taken another month just to turn the fans around, the inverter is way out of warranty so wasn't concerned on that front... I will try source suitable replacements but will still add the extra external fans, with a simple temperature con
  15. @Coulomb, yeah, that's my thinking too. The fans were replaced by Mustek, took them over a month to "test" and agree the fans needed replacing then about 2 weeks to source fans, which they kept complying about being difficult to source due to their Amp ratings. They mentioned the original fans had a rating of 0.3A and fans they tried with different Amp ratings kept triggering the error code 27 (fan fault) and then fitted R100 fans. I'm no expert but I thought that a rating of 0.3A or higher would work as the specs of fans I found mention "max current" and what I could find in 3-wire and with
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