Jabu

No. They need to be made by the same company (e.g. Voltronic, whatever brand they paint on the lid), and the models have to be the same (so identical power rating at minimum).
Many of the smaller Voltronic models can't be paralleled as well, usually only 4 kVA and above.

2400 watts of pv power is not going to be enough, I have 4260 watts of solar panels, my geyser is 200 litre fitted with a 2 kW element ( heat it to 70 degrees once a day with pv ONLY ), it takes an average of 5 hours to heat the geyser to 70 degrees, as it is winter, i just barely get my batteries charged to 100 % ( use batteries during the night , to cut down on return on investment )

That's kind of strange. I assume it's this one:

https://www.batteryfix.co.za/product/solarwize-hybrid-inverter-pure-sign-wave-80-amp-mppt-24-volts-3-2kw-parallel/
But if it's capable of outputting 80 A into a nominally 24 V battery, that would usually be classed as 80 x 25 = 2000 W. Very "optimistic" marketing.
But the inverter won't see the power from this MPPT; it will go directly to the battery (assuming that's how you've connected it). So if you don't have any other PV connected to the inverter's PV input, I'd expect the PV icon to be off, not flashing.
I think I'm missing something here.

@Jabu I do have a possibly stupid question here. Are you connecting an external MPPT charge controller to PV input of inverter? Does the inverter not have its own MPPT controller? 

Hi. I came across this in this group. One gentleman posted this diagram it has helped me a lot. I hope it will help you too in your question 

My setup was tripping the "main" earth leakage before the inverter so just moved the inverter off the feeding earth leakage. It still has it's own earth leakage after inverter output, but the inverter it self is now without EL protection...
The trips would happen when there was a high load on the inverter that switched off, then the inverter would briefly push that current into the source and then the EL would trip. The old EL is very sensitive though, any sort of heavy weather and it will trip, maybe time for a new EL?

Which one is that, the one before or after the inverter?
When an earth leakage trips, it means the return current finds a way past the earth leakage, and this almost always means you have return current running past the earth leakage on an earth wire (which should never happen, earth conductors should only carry fault current). The most common reason why this happens is if you have a downstream earth/neutral bond. Many inverters bond earth to neutral when they switch to battery mode, but that bond must be removed (usually it's a relay that opens) when the inverter is in passthru mode. If that bond remains, then the earth leakage upstream from the inverter will trip.
My most memorable case of earth leakage tripping (only figured it out decades later) was in a combination AC/DC generator. It had a 36VDC charger, and a 230VAC alternator. The negative side of the DC charger was grounded to the chasis, and so was the neutral of the alternator. One farmer bought a 3-phase on-a-trailer version on a military auction and had an electrician wire one phase to his home (which already had another generator), with an interlocking switch so he could choose which one to use for supply. The earth leakage tripped the whole time. We figured out later that this stops if we remove the negative grounding of the DC side. Many years it hit me like a hammer: Returning current on the neutral conductor that should have gone via the earth leakage instead ran across to the other generator, on to the chassis of the trailer, then along the negative battery wire back to the battery bank and across the same bond on that end to earth... on the wrong side of the earth leakage :-)

@plonkster,Thank so much. 

To add to what TTT said, the thing that blows things up is voltage, not current (the amps bit). As an analogy, the thing that burst water pipes is pressure, not flow rate. Adding more batteries improves your flow rate (up to the maximum power of the inverter), but does not up the pressure (aka the voltage).
Only important note: Always add a suitably sized fuse to the cable. A big 200Ah battery can push a thousand ampere if something goes wrong... then you want the fuse to blow instead of the cable... because when cables blow up they tend to burn down the house 🙂