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AlexTZA

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  1. Hi @87 Dream - thanks for the heads up - I will look into it.
  2. HI 87 Dream, Thank you for the info and input - points taken. I have some additional points/questions for you: - It seems Growatt is based on an Axpert design - maybe I'm wrong, but the menus and feature sets seem pretty similar in many respects. I do like the optiona/ability to monitor the Growatt's via the web though. Again, the reason for looking at the 24V version is because of the low MPPT voltage which would be a necessity if solar is going to be part of the equation. However, a 48V system with a 60V start voltage, like a King inverter would potentially work, but I will need to check the physical space for at least two panels first to be sure. Otherwise, the other option is to simply rule out solar and then use any 48V inverter, but the OCD in me keeps me searching for a solution - Are you saying keep away from 24V system from the quality of the inverter's, including Voltronic ones, at that end of the spectrum, e.g. a Kodak OffGrid 1.5Kw 1.24. It seems like the lowest end 48V inverter would be something like the VMIII 5kw 48V inverter? Do you have any particular recommendations? - I would actually prefer to use a Kodak inverter if going with the Axpert-type solution as I know the parts/spares are readily available, unless you can school me otherwise with regards to the other Axpert or Growatt brands. - As for the dedicated plugs, that is a concern for me as well. The idea was to convert one specific standard sockes to the red dedicated type along with the requisite plugs to at least make it more difficult to plug any old device in. But of course, anything can be worked around. We have had guards removed for lesser evils than tampering with electrics. - How old is the oldest Axpert-type setup you have done/seen that is still running without issues?
  3. Hi all, I've been looking into a basic backup system for my complex guard house to power LED lights, gates, cameras, energizers for the electric fence, and some dedicated plugs. Total peak power that I measured was around 300W when turning the mains breaker on (lights are on day/night switches that toggle on briefly on power on of course), around 150 W steady state during the day. There are two main options at the moment - I've been looking at something like the Victron Multiplus-24-800 or a Growatt SPF3000TL-24. We'd like the option to add solar later, but given the configuration of the guard house roof, the MPPT startup voltage will have to be low, as we're only going to be able to add about 500/600W of solar (1/2 panels). Was looking at using one Hubble AM-4 24V lithium battery to start which should give a decent amount of backup run time. Trying to keep things budget friendly while not compromising on the essentials, make sure the solution lasts many years and avoid me having to fix issues late at night! So, due to my lack of experience in using the Victron stuff, which I'd prefer to use in this case, because it has a reputation to be designed to last, can I connect the Victron to the Hubble without a GX device and just use voltage/charge set points for the battery? Not ideal I realise, but given the lack of large peak loads in this situation, seems like I could get away without BMS comms? Any other suggestions, ideas would also be welcome. Thanks!
  4. Hi gurus. Maybe I'm overthinking this or missing something important, but is there any reason I would absolutely not want to use an Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) or maybe more simply, interlocking contactors with a hybrid inverter? I'm thinking, one could place the ATS to switch the essential loads between grid and the backup side of the hybrid inverter to somewhat mitigate the general pain of splitting all electrics between backup/non backup loads. Thus when grid is available, the inverter would act like a grid-tie power source to both essential and non-essential loads but only supply power to the backup side when grid fails. Maybe this thinking is flawed based on my understanding that the backup side of the inverter can only deliver the max. rated backup power, say in the case of a Goodwe 5048 ES Inverter, 4.6KW. Thus, I would have to ensure that even when grid is available, anything connected to the backup side of the inverter cannot draw more than 4.6KW, or it will trip the inverter. One significant drawback I can see with an ATS would be a short interruption to the supply to the essential loads in the case of grid failure. According to the Goodwe manual, the inverter is rated at 4.6KW max to the grid side and the same to the backup side. Anyone have an idea if these values are simultaneous outputs or is the total output of 4.6KW shared between the grid and backup outputs?
  5. Nice diagram - did you create it? I see there are single pole breakers on the live between your DB boards - I was under the impression based on the Goodwe manual those had to be double pole? Regarding the position of the transfer switch, I'm not exactly an expert but something like below seems like it should work, if you can understand my hack of your picture? The transfer switch has inverter output and AC mains as inputs and normal loads as output. This would also allow for the interesting case of the grid powering the backup loads and the inverter powering the non-essentials loads
  6. And maybe just for clarity then, what are the advantages of the split load layout, or are they not advantages rather than requirements?
  7. Hi Jaws. The backfeed from the inverter is something I had not considered, but now that you mention it, it explains quite a few things. I presume the power meter that comes with the Goodwe is used by the inverter to regulate the backfeed so that the inverter can supply the non essential load without feeding back into grid, or at least for very short durations when the load changes dramatically. Is that the gist of it?
  8. Thanks for the feedback which confirms my suspicions. I couldn't find it in the latest user manual but the older version specify it, but this one has it on page 23, but the actual derating curve isn't supplied: http://www.goodsolar.mx/img/Iversores/Manuales/INVERSOR HIBRIDO_Manual 350-00082-02-ES USER MANUAL.pdf
  9. One of my main concerns has to do with temperature rating. If I look at the Pylontech batteries, they are rated for operation over 0-50C during charging which should be fine. However, the design life and cycle life are both specified at 25C. Given I've measure the temperature in my garage at 35C+ in the peak of summer with a hot car in it, my feeling is this is not a good place for these electronics - what have other people's experiences been? Or should I perhaps consider a large extractor in the ceiling in my garage to deal with this? Also the Goodwe temp derating starts at 45C - how quickly/easily does the inverter get near this temperature when under normal operation or high load?
  10. Hi all, I’d greatly appreciate an experience eye cast over the design and electrics of a Goodwe ES 5048 inverter setup I’m planning that includes solar and Pylontech batteries to make sure I’m not doing anything stupid. Firstly, some key challenges and pertinent info: The existing DB board is a cheapy, annoying single row job and is nearly full as it is. I am able to make some space for the Goodwe energy meter by removing a lights timer I have in the board, replacing it with a suitable day/night sensor instead. So I am limited by how many devices I can add to this board without adding a surface mount box which I’d like to avoid if possible. This is located in the garage. If necessary, I could move some load breakers, such as the geyser for example to the new surface mount DB by the inverter. I am not totally decided as to the inverter location so some input here would be appreciated. The garage is not the most spacious around the edges and I don’t like the fact I have to put the Pylon’s on the floor where it’s likely to get in the way. Also as garages are, it gets a bit dusty and cob-webby over time, and as it has a metal door facing east, it gets pretty toasty in there in the mornings in summer. Maybe I’m being a bit OCD about this, but this doesn’t seem like the ideal place for the Pylon’s. I have an alternate location in a fairly large built-in cupboard inside the house. The cupboard would be easy to amend with a vent and a quiet 10cm ceiling extractor to assist with airflow. It is however, about 25m away from the distribution board by the way of cable run. To keep things simple I’d prefer to simply attach all the existing loads directly to the inverter output. I believe my energy consumption would allow for that (typically 200-230kWh/month, peak according to efergy meter has been 9kW once in the last 5 months). If I really ran into problems, I could move the stove/geyser from the inverter output. I have 255V coming out of my wall sockets which is just a “feature” of my complex’s feed transformer. I believe the Goodwe can handle up to 270V. Thus, based on the Goodwe manual and other research I have the following basic electrical layout in mind (see Word art below). I haven’t included details such as the fuses and other components on the solar/battery side. My main questions would be: Is my plan sound? If I understand the specs in the Goodwe manual, which isn’t all that clear on the matter, it appears it can supply up to ~9.2kVA from mains as pass-through power if required. Not sure if inverter backup power can be added to this total if necessary. I understand that if power fails I’m limited to the Goodwe’s backup output of 4.6kW but I think that would be easy enough to self-manage around. The wiring from the main DB to the inverter would require 16mm^2 cable in both directions if I am correct. Not cheap, but I’d rather put in the full size cable than down-rate the breakers. How large does the earth wire need to be that runs between the DBs? Is putting the inverter in a cupboard a dumb idea or should I just leave it in the garage?
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