Zodiac69

Here is the code for the ESP. I used an ESP32
This is after you have configured your ESP the way you want it to be.
 
external_components:   - source: github://oxan/esphome-stream-server   # ############################################################## # Battery RS232 UART Setup # ############################################################# uart:   id: bat_uart   baud_rate: 9600   tx_pin: GPIO17   rx_pin: GPIO16   stream_server:    uart_id: bat_uart    port: 5000    buffer_size: 512   binary_sensor:   - platform: stream_server     connected:       name: Connected

On the Sunsynk 10.65kWh battery the RS232 port is an RJ45
Fron Solar assistant web, i found the pinout for Sunsynk.  

 

The Full load must go via the ASC. With the way the ASC is wired, you only drive the coil of the contactor, will not even show as the contactor coil power consumption is very low.
(N) to N on ASC
(N) to A1 on Contactor
(L) From breaker to input of ASC
Output of ASC to Contactor to A2 and to the "Input" of your contactor.
Do you have 3phase or is it 3x geysers?

Your total load can not be more than 30A if it is single phase.

If you have 3Phase, then you need 3x ASC units, one per Phase.
 
I do something similar..
I have two ASC's, one per Geyser as i stagger my load, and two contactors, one contactor per geyser. In my case i have wired the geysers to that i break Live and Neutral via each contactor.

Hi JayMarden

Set a counter on your geysers kWh.
Set a timer to reset at midnight.
Set rule / and gate that the on signal can only pass if the kWh is less than the value you want.
Set rule to switch off units when you reach your preset kWh

With reference to MartinB on the size of the Earthing conductor.
Your earth wire size must be adequate to be able to conduct the "FULL" Peak Output Power of your inverter.
Most decent inverters are rated at around 200% (10 seconds), this is not fixed, and you have to verify the value from your inverter technical data.
If you have a fault, you can draw up to 7200W on a Sunsynk 5.5kW inverter.
Your N-E return path must be able to handle this current, about 32A at 230Vac, as a fault can cause the full current to flow in your Earth wire.
To me that imply that the relay used for N-E link must also be able to handle the "FULL" current.
If this is not done, you may create a scenario where the "touch" voltage of the faulty equipment is high enough to be fatal.
The term "Bonding" might be misleading.
The term bonding or electrical bonding, connecting and jointing two conductors (wires, pumps, machines, pipes etc) and metallic bodies (non-current carrying during the normal operation) permanently to equalize the potential difference on both machines or systems connected by bond wire.
Bonding wires tend to be a lot "thinner" as they do not carry any current.

Yes it is bad practise. If the munic loose their E-N bond or the forget to put it back after doing fault finding you become the transformers N-E and your wiring will melt during a big earth fault. 
The way I see it. 

I've made  a small update to the Dashboard. The load shedding card shows remaining time based on battery SOC and battery power. You will need to create some template sensors as discussed here and provided in the github repo
 

 

I used to use a Tomzn over/under voltage protection relay in my DB. If the supply voltage goes lower than 170V or higher than 270V it switches off and about 1min after the V is back to normal it switches on again. 
You can find this type of relays if you google "over/under voltage protection relays".

How about a small dot that changes colour
 

If you want to try this card in home assistant follow these steps.
1. Create a new directory under www/community/ and name it sunsynk-card. If you don't have HACS installed you can create directory directly under www and reference in step 3 below.
2. Copy the attached sunsynkcard.js into the directory
3. Add the resource to your Dashboard 

4. Add the Custom: Sunsynk Card to your Dashboard view. Select Show Code editor

5. Replace all the code with the contents from the card configuration file card configuration.txt

6. Scroll down to bindings and replace the sensors with your own
bindings: - bind: return hass.states["sensor.pv1_power"].state + ' W' selector: '#pv1_power_186' type: html - bind: return hass.states["sensor.pv2_power"].state + ' W' selector: '#pv2_power_187' type: html - bind: return hass.states["sensor.sunsynk_totalsolar"].state + ' W' selector: '#pvtotal_power' type: html - bind: return hass.states["sensor.battery_voltage"].state + ' V' selector: '#battery_voltage_183' type: html - bind: return hass.states["sensor.battery_soc"].state + ' %' selector: '#battery_soc_184' type: html - bind: return hass.states["sensor.battery_output_power"].state + ' W' selector: '#battery_out_190' type: html - bind: return hass.states["sensor.inverter_output_power"].state + ' W' selector: '#inverter_out_175' type: html - bind: return hass.states["sensor.inverter_output_current"].state + ' A' selector: '#inverter_out_164' type: html - bind: return hass.states["sensor.aux_output_power"].state + ' W' selector: '#aux_power_166' type: html - bind: return hass.states["sensor.sunsynk_essential_load"].state + ' W' selector: '#ess_power' type: html - bind: return hass.states["sensor.grid_inverter_voltage"].state + ' V' selector: '#inverter_grid_voltage_154' type: html - bind: return hass.states["sensor.load_frequency"].state + ' Hz' selector: '#inverter_load_freq_192' type: html - bind: return hass.states["sensor.grid_inverter_load"].state + ' W' selector: '#inverter_load_grid_167' type: html - bind: return hass.states["sensor.grid_external_power"].state + ' W' selector: '#grid_external_power_172' type: html - bind: >- return parseInt(hass.states["sensor.grid_external_power"].state) - parseInt(hass.states["sensor.grid_inverter_load"].state) + ' W' selector: '#non_ess_power' type: html Maybe someone smart can package this as a proper HACS frontend resource

Have a look at the card I created for HA. I'm sure you can pull all the necessary sensor data through the API. 

 This is what my dashboard currently looks like

So i just integrated the DBI Astute Smart Plug (ASP) into Home Assistant without any firmware flashing or Hardware hack. CBI Astute use standard Tuya wifi chip.
I am using Tuya local, so no cloud required and it works like a charm.
I used the Tuya app to setup the ASP on my WiFi - Make sure you are on 2.4Ghz wifi, the CBI ASP only work on 2.4Ghz wifi.
Once connected to my network, i followed these instructions to get the ASP into HA - HOW TO - Setup Local Tuya in Home Assistant
Be patient and go slow as it is a pain, but it does work.
Make sure you have something plugged into the ASP that draw power, as you need to look at the field values while integrating into HA to select the correct entry for Voltage, current and Wattage.
So now i can switch off (from HA) my stove or Geyser, any CBI Astute device, when there is load shedding to prevent the Inverter battery from getting drained.