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wolfandy

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Everything posted by wolfandy

  1. Thanks From the specs you can see that Capacity is 100Ah and Nominal Charge/Discharge Current is 50A On this page of your inverter, you should make the following settings: Type - Lithium Batt capacity - 100Ah Charge amps - 50A Discharge amps - 50A Also, untick 'BMS_Err_Stop' On this page, set Amps to 50A Except for the Batt Capacity, your inverter should read all other values also directly from the battery BMS. I assume that a comms cable is installed between the inverter and the battery - correct? Can you maybe please post a picture of your BMS screen (like the one below) - just to make sure?
  2. The discharge amps depends on the type and number of batteries that you have. E.g., for 1 Pylon US3000 it is 37A We need more details on your setup to be able to help properly
  3. Am not fully sure I understand what is happening Can you please post pictures of your menu settings for Battery and BMS? And I assume that the BMS of your Pylons are linked and that the Master is connected to the inverter?
  4. If you have the Pylons connected to the Sunsynk, then the only setting you need to do is the Ah on the Battery page (74Ah in your case). The inverter will get all other data directly from the BMS. You can check everything by going the the BMS page in the Sunsynk menu
  5. Don't want to hijack this thread - but I do not really agree with that statement. I have my grid draw set to 10W and draw somewhere around 1-2kWh per day from the grid as a result. So not anywhere near the 200W or so described in the other threat. I have by now put a 63A smart relay inbetween my incoming mains and my inverter feed, so that I can completely disconnect myself when I don't need to be connected to the grid. That way I can be completely off-grid most of the time and only be connected to the grid (and have the power draw to enable the inverter to sync with the grid) when needed. I would definitely by Sunsynk/Deye again
  6. Not sure at which firmware version this happened (already a while back), but through one firmware upgrade Sunsynk increased the MPPTs from 11A to 13A The other added feature I am aware of is being able to manually set the voltage when running off-grid Without any changelog from Sunsynk I am not sure if there is anyone that really understands what all the firmware updates have brought... Maybe @Leshen has more insight?
  7. What my installer explained that this is according to some regulation (don't know exactly which one). It is to indicate to the fire department that this DB board (and hence part of the house) is still under power even after they have cut the Eskom main power feed (assuming that the inverters are still running) Mine looks like this:
  8. I only briefly played around with HA and SolarAssistant integration - but it showed the combined values for both of my inverters (if I remember correctly you can also read the individual values if you are interested)
  9. A few things where I have seen installer cut corners: Metal trunking for DC cable from where the cables enter the roof space all the way to circuit breaker box next to inverter (no plastic trunking, no free cables in the roof space, etc.) Surge protectors (and obviously fuses/disconnectors) for the PV strings Appropriately sized fuses/disconnectors between inverter and batteries (for each + and - if you want to be proper) If more than 1 battery and/or inverter: Busbar for central connection, properly sized wires, correct wiring if more than 1 battery Light on DB board for Essential Loads to separately indicate power even if Eskom main is switched off As mentioned above, make sure you oversize your separate DB board for Essential Loads and still have space for future additions (I first still had some stuff on the non-essential side and by now have moved everything across and control the non-essential things with Sonoff devices)
  10. That is why I went with 2x 5kW instead of 1x 8kW - to get more flexibility on the strings. The price increment for that was not that significant (when looking at the costs for the whole system)
  11. I've got metal conduit (pipe) from where the cables come through the tiles into the roof space all the down into the circuit breaker / lightning protector box in my garage. Plastic trunking from from that box to the inverter.
  12. Correct. You connect the BMS's of your different batteries together (assuming that the batteries are same brand). Should be explained in the manual of your battery See here for the comms connections between my Pylons (the top one is the Master): Correct. But you get all the individual BMS to talk to each other. The BMS of the 'Master' controls the BMS of the other batteries I believe that depends on the battery. On the Pylons, you do not need to change any of the dip switches unless you need to get a hub involved (I think if you have more than 8 batteries). I have not changed any of the dip switches on my 5 Pylons
  13. Have been adding Pylons one by one as I went along. Oldest 664 cycles, newest 114. As long as the BMS are connected (with newest as Master) this is absolutely no problem Am not an expert, but to my understanding this is more for lead acid batteries
  14. I used to run ICC (from ICC) while I had older Axperts in my system. Was generally happy with it. It ran stable most of the time (though every once the comms with the Axperts would hang up and needed a restart). Also used their APM tool to switch my pool pump on/off based on available PV. When I replaced my Axperts with Sunsynks, I switched to SolarAssistant. Have been really happy with it. Not a single hang-up in more than 12 months. It's been running rock solid. In terms of features I would say they are very similar. I have to admit that I prefer the looks of SolarAssistant If I remember correctly, I could get the similar details on my Pylons both on ICC and SolarAssistant (with the Pylons also directly connected to the Pi)
  15. See similar discussion in this thread
  16. I am not the expert, but to my understanding in your case, you can actually easily feed back into the grid (turn the rotary backwards). For as long as your feed does not exceed your grid usage, you should be fine (otherwise the municipality will start complaining). A couple of safety things to consider, but if I were you, I would actively feed back into the grid (which would also offset your trickle feed consumption)
  17. Hi all my installer registered my system as an off-grid SSEG with CoCT when I initially installed my system. I had Axperts at that time and have in the meantime replaced them with Sunsynks. As I have a significant excess PV capacity, I am contemplating the route of selling back to CoCT. But before reaching out to them to register my interest, I want to make sure that my current registration is order and that I do not run into any trouble on that front. Is there anyone that has a better knowledge of this? Thanks and regards
  18. Yes, am doing this on a regular basis especially during heavy loadshedding Am using SolarAssistant to be able to do that remotely whenever I need to
  19. I see a similar thing on my stack of 5x US3000 (mix of B and C and different ages). I think it has something to do with battery age (cell health). All of your batteries are at the same voltage, but report different SOC for that voltage
  20. Found the settings Can you see what your exact settings for high and low voltage are? As you can see from the above, my Sunsynk is set to max. 265V and min. 185V. That range feels too wide for me Would be curious about what others are using for this
  21. I have to admit that I do not know what my Sunsynk is capable of in this regard. Will look into Google for this
  22. Sunsynk - so it synchs with the incoming mains The source is not the problem. The problem is that the inverter synchs the voltage to the incoming Eskom feed - even if I am running fully on solar
  23. Hi all with the current loadshedding situation, I have noticed that my incoming AC voltage is bouncing around all over the place. It on a regular basis goes up to 240V and sometimes even close to 245V. I have now installed a 'smart' 63A breaker between my incoming mains and the rest of my DB board to be able to cut my Eskom feed. During the day I have more than sufficient PV to be off-grid. So am contemplating of programming a timer on that breaker to separate myself from the grid during the day and have my inverter feed 'clean' power to my house. Any downsides to this? And what voltage should I set the inverter to? The standard 230V? Or something different?
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