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SiliconKid

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SiliconKid last won the day on March 4 2020

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  • Birthday 16/02/1974

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  1. Unless the latest factory firmware on brand new units has finally been updated, of course. Then you might be ok with factory, but from what I've seen that's not the case.
  2. @Strauss If your firmware is factory your inverter definitely isn't working properly. At minimum you need the firmware I've been providing to everyone.
  3. In that case, I'm going to need that firmware update please, if it actually solves that problem. That's been driving me up the wall too. I had actually given up on it.
  4. Growatt can't get their firmware right so now they're blaming the batteries. It's not the batteries, other better inverters work fine with the same batteries based on anecdotal evidence. The firmware version numbers from Growatt are all over the place. I gave up trying to figure out which is version is the "most recent" or "correct". I have a firmware update pack that I've been giving to anybody who asks, that sorts out the original 4/20 BMS comms failures, as detailed by me in the very first post in this forum thread. That update will get BMS comms working properly over an RS485 cable but there are still issues related to Solar and input being turned on and off inappropriately which the SA Growatt community have been fighting for months. For a straight forward battery backup solution using the grid to charge the batteries and with NO solar connected, the firmware I offer is perfect. If you have Solar it doesn't look like there is any hope. Growatt can't get it right and it looks their inverters actually just aren't all that good. They work with solar, but the implementation is basic and non optimal. For Solar I would suggest getting rid of the Growatt and buying a Sunsynk or maybe Deye instead. The Sunsynk are very good. If you want the firmware I have, PM me.
  5. It's been discussed at length but it seems that Li-Ion batteries don't need a float charge like the older types do from what I've seen mentioned in these forums. The 100% down to 95% and then back up, in a constant cycle, is by design according to Growatt, so it's not considered a problem. If Solar is involved the Solar will get cut off at 100% and the inverter will again wait until the SOC drops to around 95% before turning on the Solar input again. And again, that is by design according to Growatt, and lots of discussion about that on these forums too. Long story short, the Growatt is good for pure battery backup (no solar) and serviceable and ok for Solar, but not great it would seem. When I add Solar I will probably sell my Growatt and buy a more expensive Sunsynk.
  6. I've been following this discussion with interest. It seems to me that the fundamental problem is that the Growatt Inverters always deliver Solar power VIA the battery. I don't know if that is what's going on, but it certainly sounds like it. The power it needs to keep itself running is also definitely taken from the battery. That's been confirmed by Growatt, so that's a constant draw on the battery, and if you are running without Solar and on Mains bypass you can clearly see your batteries slowly deplete to around 95% SOC over a consistent period of time (6 hours in my case with 2 x US3000) and then get charged backup to 100% in short period (20 mins or so in my case) and then the cycle repeats. And that's purely because of what the inverter itself is drawing from the batteries. The inverter seems to have no bypass that allows Solar input to get to the load without it first going via the battery? I don't have Solar hooked up yet, but from what I'm reading the problem there seems to be directly related to the fact that Solar always seems to goes via the battery. In other words, when you are "powering your load from Solar" I don't think you actually ARE powering your load directly from Solar, you are actually powering your load from the battery, which is immediately being replenished by Solar? And that's why when the battery gets to 100% it cuts the solar off, to prevent overcharging that battery, because effectively you are in a position at that point where the Solar being generated is MORE than you need to compensate for what the load is drawing, and there is nowhere else to put that excess Solar generated energy because the inverter isn't capable of sending it "directly" to the load without the batteries involved. Is that accurate? Or is it actually splitting the Solar input to: 1. Feed the load directly via a battery bypass circuit. 2. Charge the battery at the same time on the side using any excess? If I'm right, then the whole issue with Solar really just comes down to: "The inverter isn't expensive enough to include what it would need to convert the incoming Solar DC to the required clean AC on-the-fly via a bypass circuit, and also divert excess to the batteries to charge them, and to also stop charging them when they are sufficiently charged and simply allow the excess Solar generation that's available to be lost and wasted." I just get the distinct impression that the Solar implementation on these Growatt's is very basic and simple and will get the job done but is not using any intelligence to be as efficient as possible and protect the batteries as much as possible. And maybe that's ok if we consider the price point and what you are getting for that price. They really are not very expensive given what they CAN do, in one device, even if what they can do isn't necessarily what we would all like them to be doing. The Growatt 5000's also can't blend power sources, so that's another limitation that something like a more expensive SunSynk can do effectively (costs about 10 to 12K more than the Growatt). All very interesting though. I will probably go Solar fairly soon and right now I'm considering selling this Growatt and buying a SunSynk instead just to avoid the Solar related headaches and also because their UI and software is better.
  7. The inverter will be drawing some power constantly. I'm running battery backup only and no solar and I can clearly see how the inverter draws from the battery until it hits around 95% and then charges it back up to 100% again.
  8. @Elroy, @djacobs: I've PM'd both of you the firmware link.
  9. Given that I'm the OP and my previous statements are being quoted with meaning in these... Exchanges... I should probably clarify a few things. That quote above was, in retrospect, probably a bit too specific, and hyperbolic, and the "always" in capitals was a bit over the top without clear context I should have been clear that I meant that in the specific context of only the battery and an inverter involved in the whole stack, and in the context of it being a choice between the inverter itself using the BMS data to manage the battery, vs it ignoring the BMS and going old school. I was not making allowance for scenarios where the battery and or inverter are connected to some other thing, like a Pi, which is doing additional monitoring and management, in which case, as fas as I can tell, it looks like you don't ALWAYS need the inverter talking to the BMS directly because the BMS will be looking after the cells regardless, and the Pi (or whatever other thing you have talking to your inverter and running management software) will be getting involved in other decisions, and potentially even monitoring the batteries directly too, without the inverter involved. So technically, my inflammatory ALWAYS assertion is not quite true, depending on specific context. Sorry if that OP comment caused confusion and disagreement.
  10. Hi I only have a single inverter so I don't have hands-on experience with configuring inverters in parallel, but I do recall that the dipswitch settings are different if you are running multiple inverters in parallel. Have you deployed the firmware upgrades to both inverters? You say you did not get a comms cable with the inverters, but it's not clear from your post if you have deployed the firmware updates yet or not. If not, you need to get that done. You are not going to get your system to work correctly until you upgrade the firmware. If you need the firmware let me know I will email or PM you the details and a link to download it. Allan
  11. What Mahone says makes sense to me. Essentially when the battery reaches full charge the inverter shuts off input from PV, for both charging and direct supply to load. It then allows the battery SOC to drop to around 95%, at which point it enables PV input again. That is pretty much the same behaviour I see on mine with mains supply only (I have no PV). Apparently they do that to protect the battery from over charging, and they aren't allowing it to drop below 95% because they don't want it to ever have a lower SOC than that if the mains supply suddenly drops completely (load shedding) and you need your batteries at as close to max capacity as possible, immediately. So that's all good and well and makes some sense, but I still find the approach interesting because I'm not entirely sure why stopping the battery from charging needs to also result in your PV no longer supplying the load directly. I think that's because the load is ALWAYS supplied via the battery, I don't think there is a full bypass mode where the inverter can take the input from the PV and pass it straight to the load, which means that when they cutoff the PV input to the battery, they also effectively stop the PV from supplying the load in any way. And then there is the issue of your inverter randomly going into Standby mode, which still hasn't been explained. Given that you've had that happen in the middle of the night when the PV is clearly not involved, that would still seem so be a completely separate issue that is not related to PV. It would be interesting to know all the official reasons why those inverters decide to go into Standby mode. What is the set of conditions that trigger Standby mode? I wonder if Mahone can give you that set of conditions so we can better understand what is triggering Standby, because I suspect that going into Standby mode is actually a symptom of something else.
  12. Hi Glad to hear you came right. I'm a little confused as to how my original post was not clear on this though. In my original post I noted this: It turns out, the Growatt does NOT communicate via the CAN port. It communicates via the RS485 port that is positioned below the CAN port on the master battery. And in addition to that, it requires a 9600 baud rate, which you can set using the 4 small white dipswitches on the master battery. For the Growatt you must set those dipswitches to: 1 0 0 0 (ON OFF OFF OFF) When connected to the CAN port and put into Li (L02) mode, the Growatt inverter faults and gives an error 20 and an error 04 constantly. When connected to the RS485 port with the dipswitches set to 1000, comms is immediately established and it works as intended. That seems to clearly state that you must NOT connect the cable to the CAN port and need to connect it to the RS485 port, in bold and red Were you speed reading maybe?
  13. OK, well what I can tell you is that even the batteries with BMS and comms capability built in have given our community a lot of issues connecting to various inverters, even when they are supposed to be compatible. And the reason for that is that each BMS has its own protocol that has to be explicitly supported by the inverter firmware, and each BMS also has its own cable pinout for communicating with it. So if you don't have an inverter that natively supports your batteries the only reasonable way I can think of to get that working is to ignore the BMS and just put your inverter into User mode, configure it manually, and use good old voltage monitoring. That seems to be what most of the installers in SA do most of the time anyway, even when they are installing new Li batteries like the PylonTech, with BMS and comms, which shouldn't require User mode. You should be able to get it all working well enough that way if you configure the inverter correctly for the spec of those batteries. I don't think you will win if you try to retro fit some kind of comms to the BMS purely because you would also need a firmware update for your inverter that supports a mode for that specific BMS protocol, which I'm guessing is not going to be possible to get? Or does your inverter already have an Li profile for that specific make and model of battery?
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