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Acuario's Achievements

  1. ..here is my code. Use it as a basis for your controller or as an example. I use the same code for 2 different controllers, hence the multiple html files. SolarWaterController.zip
  2. Here is the very basic schematic. It uses a Wemos D1 Mini and YL-40 PCF8591 module. 2 x 10K NTC thermistors and a solid state relay. I'll upload the code later.Schematic1.pdf
  3. Check the generator voltage is within the accepted range of the inverter and check the frequency of the generator output - you will need a decent meter to do this. The inverter will not accept the input if it is outside the tolerances of the inverter.
  4. You will need 2 non return valves, I would put them on the 'C' pipe. Both systems will be pumped so without non-return valves you will be pulling water around the non running circuit in reverse. Also, when you plumb in your system, make sure the solar circuit pipework on the 'B' leg has a loop BELOW the storage tank to avoid thermal syphoning. If you want a design for an ESP8266 based unit then I have one I built, it has a web interface to monitor it and has an automatic defrost mode (if you have low temperatures around freezing). It also tries to extract maximum heat from the panel by controlling the on/off cycle of the pump when the delta temperature is low. It just needs 2 x 10K NTC thermistors, a PCF8591 module, a solid state relay, an ESP8266 module such as a Wemos D1 and some form of power supply. Optionally you can add an I2C 2 x 16 line LCD module.
  5. My setup is as follows: 4 X US3000C batteries ISolar SMV III 5Kw (same as Axpert VMIII) AC input is connected and recognized. Batteries and inverter are communicating via BMS, inverter is set to SBU I have an 04 alarm (low battery) on the inverter. The battery voltage is 48.5V, SOC is 21%, on the battery 2 led's of the SOC are lit Inverter is set to PYL for batteries which sets the following parameters automatically: 12 46V 13 54V 26 53.2V 27 53.2V 29 46V The 'dry contact' is set to NC (i.e. it is not activated). The inverter hasn't switched to use the utility (ac) input. QPIWS gives 2 warnings, a12 (Battery low alarm) a14 (battery under shutdown) Any ideas why the inverter isn't switching to utility and charging the batteries? Is there a way to force a changeover (I guess setting to USB?)
  6. Version 2020.03.25


    Axpert VM III and ISolar SMV III (plus others) with removable display BMS pinout and protocol
  7. I can confirm this connection works with Pylontech US3000C batteries and an EA Sun ISOLAR SMV III 5K inverter. My Pylontech cable pack came with a black cable part WIOSCAN30RJ1 (totally wrong connections) which I cut the inverter plug off of and replaced the plug with only pins 3 and 5 connected as per above (in my case the two brown wires). The 'master' battery has dip switch 1 set to 1 (on), the other batteries are all default 0. Inverter and batteries are now communicating.
  8. It's possible that the inverter does not support WatchPower. Can you identify it against one of the genuine Axpert versions then check? I recently bought an EASun Isolar SMG II 5KP and had exactly the same problem. It has no USB port, the COM port identified but no communication with WatchPower. I asked EASun and they confirmed it didn't have (this version of) RS232 comms. Maybe the clue was that there was no CD in the box even though there was a cable and it mentioned it in the user guide. Fortunately they accepted the return and I bought a different version that does work with WatchPower. Did you receive a CD?
  9. My solution to this (well, a similar) problem was to develop a box that controls the connection of power from the grid to the house depending on the power consumed. The key is that the reconnect to the inverter provided (battery) output is delayed so connect/disconnect/reconnect ... of a load does not cause constant switching of the bypass. Power control system
  10. @RyanBM Maybe too late but here's my thoughts.. Definitely MPPT - far superior to PWM. Having run both I'd never go back to PWM. Re the batteries: I've run with lead acid (GEL) batteries for the last 15 years - 900Ah, 24V. Now the batteries have been replaced (they lasted pretty well and have now been relegated to run my greenhouse). I've now replaced them with Lithium (Pylontech) - why? 1. They have a greater discharge capacity (can go as low as 20% or 5% for the newer US3000C 48V version) 2. If you decide you want more storage then just plug in another battery (impossible with lead acid) 3. Much neater in their cabinet - I had gel batteries but liquid ones need regular maintenance. 4. I can communicate with the BMS so I know exactly how they are performing and if I need to charge them. Price wise there isn't a huge difference.
  11. Acuario


    You don't say what inverter you have.. I've seen this many times - some makes of LED bulbs seem more susceptible than others. I've seen flickering bulbs, flashing bulbs and very dim bulbs, both LED and the older compact fluorescent. It 'may' be due to the way your inverter provides power. Many inverters (not all) do not tie ground and neutral together so, referenced to ground, the phase wire is at 120VAC and the neutral wire is also at 120VAC, this provides the 240VAC (voltages are nominal and may vary +/-). This may be different with 120VAC supplies in countries that use 120V - I have no experience of this. Check and see if this is your case and if so then check to see if there is an (official approved!) way to connect the neutral and ground. I know with Studer inverters there is a setting (on the newer models) or a screw and washer (on older models) that lets you do this. It may be referred to as TN, TT or IT wiring system.
  12. How are you starting the generator, manually or with an auto start? If it's auto start is the auto start being disactivated? Does the generator have a start control module with a display? Often these show the reason for shutdown. Is the generator stable (engine sound steady)? What about in the few seconds when it connects before stopping, do you note any change in the sound? Can you measure the output voltage (and if possible frequency) of the generator and see if it drops when the inverter transfers. Some generators will shut down if they see the voltage and/or frequency dropping out of tolerance. If there is a control panel on the generator then these parameters can usually be modified.
  13. Many years ago I tried the plastic pool heater panels (I had 4 of them in Spain). They were, in my case, pretty much a failure - too little heat gain for the pool. In the end I abandoned them and installed a home made air to water heat pump. That was about 10 years ago. It's still working now - my pool is at 30 degrees as I write Details of the build are here Pool heater heatpump
  14. Here are some screen shots of my solar monitoring and power control system. Current setup (but about to change..): Pylontech UP2500 batteries (4) Studer HP4400 inverter Midnight solar classic charge controller I have designed plug in modules (using ESP8266 WiFi SOC devices) for the Pylontech and Midnight charge controller and a power control system to run the system. Messaging is via a cloud MQTT server - no Raspberry PI or PC involved! Details (a bit outdated but not much) of the Power Control system at www.powercontrol.es - I thought about commercializing it but still not sure. The app runs on Android.
  15. Version 20200102


    Received from EASunPower - their version is ISolar SMV III 5KW
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