Jump to content

Acuario

Members
  • Content Count

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. It's possible that the inverter does not support WatchPower. Can you identify it against one of the genuine Axpert versions then check? I recently bought an EASun Isolar SMG II 5KP and had exactly the same problem. It has no USB port, the COM port identified but no communication with WatchPower. I asked EASun and they confirmed it didn't have (this version of) RS232 comms. Maybe the clue was that there was no CD in the box even though there was a cable and it mentioned it in the user guide. Fortunately they accepted the return and I bought a different version that does work with Watc
  2. My solution to this (well, a similar) problem was to develop a box that controls the connection of power from the grid to the house depending on the power consumed. The key is that the reconnect to the inverter provided (battery) output is delayed so connect/disconnect/reconnect ... of a load does not cause constant switching of the bypass. Power control system
  3. @RyanBM Maybe too late but here's my thoughts.. Definitely MPPT - far superior to PWM. Having run both I'd never go back to PWM. Re the batteries: I've run with lead acid (GEL) batteries for the last 15 years - 900Ah, 24V. Now the batteries have been replaced (they lasted pretty well and have now been relegated to run my greenhouse). I've now replaced them with Lithium (Pylontech) - why? 1. They have a greater discharge capacity (can go as low as 20% or 5% for the newer US3000C 48V version) 2. If you decide you want more storage then just plug in another batt
  4. Acuario

    Nifty

    You don't say what inverter you have.. I've seen this many times - some makes of LED bulbs seem more susceptible than others. I've seen flickering bulbs, flashing bulbs and very dim bulbs, both LED and the older compact fluorescent. It 'may' be due to the way your inverter provides power. Many inverters (not all) do not tie ground and neutral together so, referenced to ground, the phase wire is at 120VAC and the neutral wire is also at 120VAC, this provides the 240VAC (voltages are nominal and may vary +/-). This may be different with 120VAC supplies in countries that use 120V - I h
  5. How are you starting the generator, manually or with an auto start? If it's auto start is the auto start being disactivated? Does the generator have a start control module with a display? Often these show the reason for shutdown. Is the generator stable (engine sound steady)? What about in the few seconds when it connects before stopping, do you note any change in the sound? Can you measure the output voltage (and if possible frequency) of the generator and see if it drops when the inverter transfers. Some generators will shut down if they see the voltage and/or frequency droppi
  6. Many years ago I tried the plastic pool heater panels (I had 4 of them in Spain). They were, in my case, pretty much a failure - too little heat gain for the pool. In the end I abandoned them and installed a home made air to water heat pump. That was about 10 years ago. It's still working now - my pool is at 30 degrees as I write Details of the build are here Pool heater heatpump
  7. Here are some screen shots of my solar monitoring and power control system. Current setup (but about to change..): Pylontech UP2500 batteries (4) Studer HP4400 inverter Midnight solar classic charge controller I have designed plug in modules (using ESP8266 WiFi SOC devices) for the Pylontech and Midnight charge controller and a power control system to run the system. Messaging is via a cloud MQTT server - no Raspberry PI or PC involved! Details (a bit outdated but not much) of the Power Control system at www.powercontrol.es - I thought about commercializing i
  8. Version 20200102

    12 downloads

    Received from EASunPower - their version is ISolar SMV III 5KW
×
×
  • Create New...