Acuario

This is what can happen when lightning strikes.. the molten mass at the bottom is the remains of a 3-phase professional lightning surge arrestor. 
Did it work? Well, nothing in the house got fried so you could say that yes, it did it's job.

So here is the story to date - and a work in progress fix for the brave..
No update on a firmware fix - I'm not holding my breath..
So how to fix? Simulate what happens when the inverter works correctly.
First step - capture the BMS messages and see what's happening - the critical phase is when the batteries are close to full charge - the charge current is slowly reduced from 150A to 10A.
The inverter continually polls the batteries for frames CID 61, 62 and 63.
The CID2 frame 63 contains the upper and lower voltage limits (53.25V and 45.00V respectively) and the current charge limit. The current charge limit is in A but seems to be 10% of the value set by the inverter. The inverter has various possible settings that can be obtained with the QMCHGCR command - in the case of the MAX II the values are 010 020 030 040 050 060 070 080 090 100 110 120 130 140 150. The chosen value is the nearest to the value that is available, i.e. if the value from the battery is 5.18A then the inverter sets the charge to 50A.
Reading the value from the frame 63 it is possible to send  MNCHGC messages to the inverter to control the charging current.
For anyone that wants to know the SOC from the batteries then this is available in frame 61
It seems that when the SOC is at 100% the inverter stops charging. In the QBMS message the battery stop charge flag gets set, and the charging status in QPIGS changes.
Monitoring the QPIGS and QPIGS2 messages it seems it doesn't stop totally as the power from the solar exceeds the power used.
According to the MAX Communication Protocol it should be possible to control charging (and discharging) using the PBATCD command but I just get a NAK when I try. I have seen this response from commands when they can't be used for some reason so maybe the conditions are preventing it's use - that's still to be investigated.
 
..to be continued..

Due to the problem with BMS comms between Axpert and Pylontech I ran a test on a Pylontech US2000C battery.
I was concerned about over charging as the RS485 BMS reports the maximum charge current to the inverter and the inverter progressively reduces its maximum charge current setting automatically based on the values coming from the BMS. My concern was that setting USE for battery type, and then voltage, it would not be sufficient and that the batteries would continue to charge.
The result was that as the battery approached 100% it automatically reduced the charge rate without any intervention. 
My conclusion was that the USE settings are fine and overcharging will not happen.
 

Due to the problem with BMS comms between Axpert and Pylontech I ran a test on a Pylontech US2000C battery.
I was concerned about over charging as the RS485 BMS reports the maximum charge current to the inverter and the inverter progressively reduces its maximum charge current setting automatically based on the values coming from the BMS. My concern was that setting USE for battery type, and then voltage, it would not be sufficient and that the batteries would continue to charge.
The result was that as the battery approached 100% it automatically reduced the charge rate without any intervention. 
My conclusion was that the USE settings are fine and overcharging will not happen.
 

Are they both the same style, i.e. low maintenance, gel,  regular 'top up' batteries or sealed?
Also why? Are you replacing an old dead battery and keeping an old working battery, or just 2 different makes but both new?
It's not recommended to add new batteries to old batteries as the old battery will tend to drag the new battery down.
If they are both new, both the same style and both the same Ah rating then you should be fine.

Yes correct.
This is one of the common failures made when batteries are connected in parallel. The rating is per battery both charge and discharge so it needs to be multiplied by the number of batteries.

This is what can happen when lightning strikes.. the molten mass at the bottom is the remains of a 3-phase professional lightning surge arrestor. 
Did it work? Well, nothing in the house got fried so you could say that yes, it did it's job.

This is what can happen when lightning strikes.. the molten mass at the bottom is the remains of a 3-phase professional lightning surge arrestor. 
Did it work? Well, nothing in the house got fried so you could say that yes, it did it's job.

If you search for BT-JINOU you'll get several hits. You can find out the pinout for the DB9 connector etc. 
If you link TX and RX on the adaptor it will work in loopback. You can then connect from the bluetooth on the pc (built in or dongle) - you need to pair the devices - usually the code to pair is 0000 or 1234
When they are paired use a terminal program such as Termite to see if you can get a response to the loopback - what you type should come back on the received data.
If this works then connect tx/rx/gnd from the adaptor to the inverter and try to get a response from it - you can use the MAX protocol, you need to send a command with checksum - elsewhere on this forum that is described. You could skip this step and try Watchpower, changing the COM port to the Bluetooth com port.
In theory it should all work.

Oh my I never realized there isn't one
This is my default extension everywhere: https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/dark-reader/eimadpbcbfnmbkopoojfekhnkhdbieeh?hl=en

The box he has is not running 2.71 but he is upgrading it to show the process. He says it is version 2.71 that has problems. 
The box he upgrades is running 2.61 and upgrades to 102.73
@CoulombI thought I read somewhere that versions 1XX were for a different processor than 0XX versions due to the chip shortage so were incompatible?

It sounds roughly the same as what I have designed/developed. This is with an ESP32. The white sockets are for an LCD display and a touch switch. 
The user relay can be programmed to switch on/off depending on the SOC. 
I don't know how much 300 rands is - but according to the currency calculator it's just over 16 euros - I don't know the price of the raspberry pi but I thought they were more than that. 

A good point. I guess that is already catered for as when the charge current changes as a result of the BMS message the inverter saves the setting (this can be confirmed by going into the programming or reading the QPIRI message).
I don't know where they would store the valued, it could be in flash or EEPROM, the latter has a much higher maximum number of write cycles (over 1 million) so even at 20 changes a day it would last over 130 years. It depends on the storage medium but I don't think it's something to worry about.

I'm in the UK. From the end of February to about the beginning of November  I basically run off grid.
Here we have Tariffs that encourage us to use the grid when their is not much demand so from 00.30 to 04.30 my unit rate is 7.5p per KWh. Any other time it is 34p. So using Solcast, NodeRed and the Teesny I calculate how much I need to put into the battery, from the grid during the cheap rate time, to keep me going for the rest of the day. It works pretty well. I can set it so that the battery always has a minimum SOC for and unforeseen eventualities.
I have the capacity to charge to 100% on a night but their is no need. I do set it once a week to do that to keep up the battery balancing.

I don't have the phone app but I have interrogated using the Communication API.
QVFW gives : VERFW:00081.01
QVFW3 gives: VERFW:00122.12
 

Yes, finger trouble - U11801
Here is the photo
 

It is actually possible to write your own firmware or install an equivalent of Tasmota firmware on some of these devices. It depends on the chip they use.
Many now use either a BK7231T or BK7231N chip. There is a tutorial on how to write your own code and how to flash a ready built Tasmota equivalent here WB2S/BK7231 Tutorial - writing custom firmware - UDP/TCP/HTTP/MQTT (elektroda.com)
I have tested this out on a Nous smart socket and have successfully changed it to the Tasmota build.
It's not the Arduino environment but is certainly possible to do.

I have underfloor heating (and cooling in the summer) running off a heatpump (home made system in my case rather than commercial). I would recommend underfloor heating to anyone, best heating system I've ever installed).
In my case (North east Spain) I heat the water to typically 32C in winter and chill to 16C in summer, this keeps the house at around 25C in summer and 22C in winter. 
As there is a time delay on the response I use a weather feed and predictive heating based on forecast temperature, always working 2 hours ahead. I also reduce the temperature a few degrees overnight in the winter.
My house is approx 250sq meters and electricity use is between 6000kWh and 8000kWh (depends on the winter!) for a heating season from mid October to mid may.
In my case I have also added (and soon to add more) solar water panels to the system so on sunny days I get free heating from the sun. As the underfloor is effectively a thermal mass the heat is available long after the sun has gone.
Another future plan is to add an extra small heatpump that operates when I have excess solar power. This will most likely only be for summer cooling use and 'emergency' winter use in case of grid failure.

I have underfloor heating (and cooling in the summer) running off a heatpump (home made system in my case rather than commercial). I would recommend underfloor heating to anyone, best heating system I've ever installed).
In my case (North east Spain) I heat the water to typically 32C in winter and chill to 16C in summer, this keeps the house at around 25C in summer and 22C in winter. 
As there is a time delay on the response I use a weather feed and predictive heating based on forecast temperature, always working 2 hours ahead. I also reduce the temperature a few degrees overnight in the winter.
My house is approx 250sq meters and electricity use is between 6000kWh and 8000kWh (depends on the winter!) for a heating season from mid October to mid may.
In my case I have also added (and soon to add more) solar water panels to the system so on sunny days I get free heating from the sun. As the underfloor is effectively a thermal mass the heat is available long after the sun has gone.
Another future plan is to add an extra small heatpump that operates when I have excess solar power. This will most likely only be for summer cooling use and 'emergency' winter use in case of grid failure.

I have underfloor heating (and cooling in the summer) running off a heatpump (home made system in my case rather than commercial). I would recommend underfloor heating to anyone, best heating system I've ever installed).
In my case (North east Spain) I heat the water to typically 32C in winter and chill to 16C in summer, this keeps the house at around 25C in summer and 22C in winter. 
As there is a time delay on the response I use a weather feed and predictive heating based on forecast temperature, always working 2 hours ahead. I also reduce the temperature a few degrees overnight in the winter.
My house is approx 250sq meters and electricity use is between 6000kWh and 8000kWh (depends on the winter!) for a heating season from mid October to mid may.
In my case I have also added (and soon to add more) solar water panels to the system so on sunny days I get free heating from the sun. As the underfloor is effectively a thermal mass the heat is available long after the sun has gone.
Another future plan is to add an extra small heatpump that operates when I have excess solar power. This will most likely only be for summer cooling use and 'emergency' winter use in case of grid failure.

How are you starting the generator, manually or with an auto start? If it's auto start is the auto start being disactivated?
Does the generator have a start control module with a display? Often these show the reason for shutdown.
Is the generator stable (engine sound steady)? What about in the few seconds when it connects before stopping, do you note any change in the sound?
Can you measure the output voltage (and if possible frequency) of the generator and see if it drops when the inverter transfers. Some generators will shut down if they see the voltage and/or frequency dropping out of tolerance. If there is a control panel on the generator then these parameters can usually be modified.

Many years ago I tried the plastic pool heater panels (I had 4 of them in Spain). They were, in my case, pretty much a failure - too little heat gain for the pool.
In the end I abandoned them and installed a home made air to water heat pump. That was about 10 years ago. It's still working now - my pool is at 30 degrees as I write 🙂
Details of the build are here Pool heater heatpump