Plonkster, 100000% agree.

My installation... I'm coming from battery -> one moer big single level quick disconnect (silver has the name, Julion... something) with 120Amp fuses -> the DC combiner box.

From panels -> dual pole isolator (each pair cables (3 panels in series)) -> fuse - > quick disconnect -> bus bar (<- this all PV DC Combiner box)  -> another moer large dual isolator -> MPPT -> the DC combiner box (where battery is cabled into)

and then interverter -> the DC combiner box 

so basically 2x DC boxes, one for combining the PV feed with MPPT and one for the Battery, MPPT and inverter meeting spot.

G

 

17 minutes ago, VisN said:

Got it. So not 100% necessary.

 

Actually, I'd say def necessary!!! and a sparky will most prob not like it if it is not there.

Remember, you working with some high Voltages here, rather more fuses and disconnect and clean bus bar's than direct terminal lug connections.

You want to isolate things to work on these cables.

G

Just now, georgelza said:

high Voltages

60V is not considered a high voltage 🙂 But it is the current that starts fires.

I'm expecting higher from Panels ?

Battery is only 48V,

But both is high enough with enough oomph -> Amp to cause some series shit.

G

47 minutes ago, georgelza said:

Plonkster, 100000% agree.

My installation... I'm coming from battery -> one moer big single level quick disconnect (silver has the name, Julion... something) with 120Amp fuses -> the DC combiner box.

From panels -> dual pole isolator (each pair cables (3 panels in series)) -> fuse - > quick disconnect -> bus bar (<- this all PV DC Combiner box)  -> another moer large dual isolator -> MPPT -> the DC combiner box (where battery is cabled into)

and then interverter -> the DC combiner box 

so basically 2x DC boxes, one for combining the PV feed with MPPT and one for the Battery, MPPT and inverter meeting spot.

G

 

It's called a battery fuse disconnector

and the other name i saw flying around?

 

G

43 minutes ago, georgelza said:

I'm expecting higher from Panels ?

Battery is only 48V,

But both is high enough with enough oomph -> Amp to cause some series shit.

G

Yes, the MPPT input runs at much higher voltages than the output of 48V to the battery. 

 

50V is the highest "safe" voltages, or so they say. After that it can get dangerous.  On numerous occasions, I've accidentally touched both the positive and negative terminals on a 54V battery bank and experienced a slight shock. 

Just now, georgelza said:

and the other name i saw flying around?

 

G

Brand would be Jean Müller??

4 minutes ago, georgelza said:

and the other name i saw flying around?

 

G

Well, two popular brands are KETO or Merson 

Edited April 7, 20197 yr by SilverNodashi

Just now, VisN said:

Brand would be Jean Müller??

👍 thats the name i heard before.

G

14 minutes ago, SilverNodashi said:

Well, two popular brands are KETO or Merson 

 

15 minutes ago, VisN said:

Jean Müller

KETO is the fused disconnects made by Jean Müller. Mersen is the other brand.

7 hours ago, georgelza said:

See if this helps.

Got it from Johannes Boonstra from VictronEnergy

https://www.victronenergy.com/live/battery_compatibility:pylontech_phantom

Based on that document it seems one cannot run a Pylon on a Victron Multi without a CCGX or Venus GX. A CANBUS type B cable is also required. Is this correct, if so where does one get such a cable? 

I'm getting mine from my installer... if you can't come right let me know.

Note they also not showing the Carlo Gavazzi meter that sits after your main 60Amp Isolator and ELU and the comms cable that goes from it to the VenusGX/CCGX

G

 

 

8 hours ago, VisN said:

Is this correct, if so where does one get such a cable? 

You ask for it from the supplier of the parts - or make your won.
Me, I would ask for one to be made with the VenusGX.

That cable is Victron part number ASS030720018 I got mine with my Venus thru Current Automation,was r290

You also need a standard cat cable RJ45 to RJ45 for the other side ,from the Venus to the inverter, the plug ends for that come with the Venus if you want to make your own

Edited April 8, 20197 yr by 2una

On 2019/04/07 at 7:41 PM, plonkster said:

 

I'd say it is generally a good idea to have separate busbars. Also makes it easier to individually fuse cables, eg I have a large fuse between the batteries and the busbar, and then individual smaller fuses and breakers from the busbar to the various solar chargers and the Multi. It also means I can take the Multi out of circuit while the solar chargers continue to charge the batteries. Not something I do a lot, but I have done it.

Those Victron DC-distribution boxes are really really nice, but they are costly. So most of us make our own from copper bar.

I messed up and got copper bar that I think is insufficient. Would 15mm x 3mm be adequate or should I just try to repurpose the 2 x 250mm bars or is there a way to rescue the situation? 

I would have used the facepalm emoji here but I know @plonkster doesn't like emojis. 

On 2019/04/10 at 9:57 AM, VisN said:

emoji

Emoji is fine, I've been using them extensively ever since IRC was a thing. What I don't like is animated gifs... distracting bouncy thingies... as bad as the <blink> tags</blink> used to be before it was deprecated 🙂

On 2019/04/10 at 9:57 AM, VisN said:

15mm x 3mm

Cross area is what matters. Googling a bit says a density of between 1.5A and 2A per square millimeter is acceptable. With 15mmx3mm copper bar you have 45 square millimeter, so it should be good for max 90A, probably more like 70A. That seems a bit thin to me. Also, the contact area between the lug and the bar is important. I'm not sure what you mean by 2*250? Did you mean 2mm*25mm? About the same volume of copper.

1 minute ago, plonkster said:

Emoji is fine, I've been using them extensively ever since IRC was a thing. What I don't like is animated gifs... distracting bouncy thingies... as bad as the <blink> tags</blink> used to be before it was deprecated 🙂

Cross area is what matters. Googling a bit says a density of between 1.5A and 2A per square millimeter is acceptable. With 15mmx3mm copper bar you have 45 square millimeter, so it should be good for max 90A, probably more like 70A. That seems a bit thin to me. Also, the contact area between the lug and the bar is important. I'm not sure what you mean by 2*250? Did you mean 2mm*25mm? About the same volume of copper.

I actually meant I have 2 bars of 250mm length each. 

This is a bit of a moot point now though as I have acquired a bar measuring 300(L) x 30(W) x 10(H), fairly substantial and should be good for around 500A I think.

9 minutes ago, VisN said:

I actually meant I have 2 bars of 250mm length each. 

Aaaah! Well length is not the important part, it's the width and the depth, but as you said... moot 🙂

10 minutes ago, VisN said:

This is a bit of a moot point now though as I have acquired a bar measuring 300(L) x 30(W) x 10(H), fairly substantial and should be good for around 500A I think.

That's 300 square millimeter and therefore good for up to 600A (with a bit of extra heat) or at least 450A.

I have one of these https://www.tp-link.com/lk/home-networking/adapter/tl-wa890ea/ which draws power from a 5VDC / 1A micro USB connection. How can I use the Venus' 5V DC output to power it? Also, is there a way of connecting a permanent display to the Venus? 

Edited April 19, 20197 yr by VisN

???

(Ignore the wires coming out above the Ethernet Jack, those are attached to the serial debug port on the inside... 🙂 ).

Edit: Or just use the USB... use a hub if you must.

Edited April 19, 20197 yr by plonkster

1 hour ago, VisN said:

is there a way of connecting a permanent display to the Venus? 

It has no Video hardware, so there is no way to do it.

Thanks, @plonkster. I'm just trying to repurpose the multitude of networking and other bits I have lying around. I know the Venus has no video hardware but was hoping someone had perhaps hooked up a tablet that was being charged by the USB port, mounted close to the Venus etc. etc. etc. 

I was also wondering what other WiFi adapters could be used apart from the ones that are mentioned here https://www.victronenergy.com/live/ccgx:start#internet_connectivity 

Edited April 19, 20197 yr by VisN

I currently have 

• Victron MultiPlus II 48V 3kVA
• Venus GX
• 2 x PylonTech US3000
• 6 x 315W JA Solar panels 

Our daily usage is around 13-16 kWh which I'm certain can be reduced. We cook mostly with gas but the electric hob and oven are used occasionally. We have a stock standard refrigerator and a standard 150L geyser. The geyser, hob, and oven bypass the inverter. I do not know our night time usage but I would expect it to be fairly low.

The 6 panels I am installing are intended as a start into solar as I wanted to ensure I have a solid foundation in place upon which I can build. I want to run ESS and would like to know what would be the optimum PV array size I would need to adequately cover my needs including load shedding of say 4 hours a day? 

@VisN

 Perhaps there is something in this discussion thread that may suit your screen quest?

https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/4199/best-tablet-for-an-external-ccgx-display.html