Hello. When running on inverter/ battery id like to turn off my heating (on ewelink) when my stove is used to save overloading the inverter. What can sense the cooker is turned on maybe by current draw and then I can via ewelink turn off the heating whilst cooking and heating back on when cooker is turned off?

A POW R3 might work on the stove and heating circuit. Remember it will take a few seconds to control via the internet. So, instantaneous overload won't be prevented like this.

On 2026/03/11 at 4:48 PM, frivan said:

A POW R3 might work on the stove and heating circuit. Remember it will take a few seconds to control via the internet. So, instantaneous overload won't be prevented like this.

I feel I need to differ. The overload setting is in the Sonoff unit and even when there is no Internet it will still switch off the stove. Only the remote control function will not work if no Internet. Once switched off you will have to use the manual switch on again. As one would normally keep the WiFi on it should work fine.

36 minutes ago, Scorp007 said:

I feel I need to differ. The overload setting is in the Sonoff unit and even when there is no Internet it will still switch off the stove. Only the remote control function will not work if no Internet. Once switched off you will have to use the manual switch on again. As one would normally keep the WiFi on it should work fine.

Instantaneous overload of the inverter.

Ie don't plan on loading everything on essentials, relying on the grid passthrough feature, thinking that when there's a power cut these smart breakers will cut the loads without tripping the inverter.

The switch off will take a few seconds by which time the inverter will likely trip if overloaded.

On 2026/03/11 at 4:48 PM, frivan said:

A POW R3 might work on the stove and heating circuit. Remember it will take a few seconds to control via the internet. So, instantaneous overload won't be prevented like this.

Doesn't this depend on what circuits are backed up? If neither stove nor heating are backed up, they can't overload the inverter.

Edited March 15Mar 15 by Bobster.
Punctuation

4 hours ago, Bobster. said:

If neither stove nor heating are backed up, they can't overload the inverter.

True. However, the first post implied the system is running on battery power and it seemed like the one circuit should switch off another.

41 minutes ago, frivan said:

True. However, the first post implied the system is running on battery power and it seemed like the one circuit should switch off another.

May be I am missing something but not easy for the Sonoff to only cut off the stove without affecting the other essential loads. I would rather use the CBI load switch to switch off the stove when other loads are drawing current above a set value. No manual intervention/remote functionality.

On 2026/03/11 at 4:30 PM, jimcope said:

What can sense the cooker is turned on maybe by current draw and then I can via ewelink turn off the heating whilst cooking and heating back on when cooker is turned off?

I'm trying (intermittently) to do something similar with two water heaters. There's some gotchas. I'm doing it on SmartLife, not Ewelink, but...

1) you need to have a device that monitors ONLY the stove

2) The stove may not draw a steady current. Thermostats may turn plates or the oven on & off repeatedly. Get a handle on what the stove draws first.

3) your design may need to cater for multiple offs and ons.

4) (2) is important because you will have some test to decide when to turn the heating off & back on. You may not want the heating cycling too often.

5) you may need master on and off automations for the heater otherwise it may detect the stove being turned off and then stay on until the stove starts drawing current again.

Devise a table of various on off conditions, including time of day, and be guided by that?

Is the heating already on a timer? What happens if power to the timer is interrupted. The built in controller for my heat pump remembers it's programs when power goes down, but the clock loses time - and not just a couple of seconds.

So there may be more good, clean fun than you anticipated.

1 hour ago, frivan said:

True. However, the first post implied the system is running on battery power and it seemed like the one circuit should switch off another.

OK, I may be guilty of thinking every inverter in the world works like mine. But. In my world the pool pump is not backed up. The power it consumes does not get added to the backed up loads & cause an overload, but if it runs into the night the inverter may (usually will) supply it power from the battery.

So, in my world, anything not backed up can not overload the inverter but can still deplete the battery.

A word to the wise where smart breakers, smart switching devices is used in a distribution board.

1. The Rule: If an MCB or similar smart device does not display a kA rating, or has a lower kA rating than the potential short-circuit current (PSCC) at that point in the distribution board, it must be protected by an upstream device that does have the appropriate kA rating.

2. Cascading: This method is known as cascading. The main breaker (upstream) acts as the primary protection against massive faults, limiting the current that reaches the downstream device (e.g., a smart breaker).

3. Certification: In South Africa, breakers are required to be compliant with SANS 556-1

If a smart breaker lacks a kA rating, it is likely designed for "series rating" or "cascading." You must ensure it is installed downstream of a certified, rated breaker (usually 6kA or 10kA in domestic applications) in compliance with SANS 10142 to ensure the system is safe.

https://safehousesa.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Safehouse_Miniature-Circuit-Breakers-Guide.pdf

Wouldn't a ECR by CBi work in this case? These are mostly used to switch the geyser off when too much power is drawn by the rest of the house.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://cbi-lowvoltage.co.za/system/files_force/downloads/ENERGY%2520CONTROL%2520UNIT.pdf%3Fdownload%3D1&ved=2ahUKEwjB2qihyrGTAxX7a0EAHcxZIcEQFnoECBUQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1YCcsmORNmDHQllkKaQu3a

Edited March 21Mar 21 by Vaal

44 minutes ago, Vaal said:

Wouldn't a ECR by CBi work in this case? These are mostly used to switch the geyser off when too much power is drawn by the rest of the house.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://cbi-lowvoltage.co.za/system/files_force/downloads/ENERGY%2520CONTROL%2520UNIT.pdf%3Fdownload%3D1&ved=2ahUKEwjB2qihyrGTAxX7a0EAHcxZIcEQFnoECBUQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1YCcsmORNmDHQllkKaQu3a

This is the unit I mentioned 6 days ago. The old toppies here will know very well it became popular to switch the geyser off when the stove was switched on as food was more essential than instant hot water.

Even in the current world it is a great device.