Just now, McGuywer said:

I haven't tripped my mains in ages.

At the moment, I have a Tomzn 63Amp connected to a flat. I have seen a spike of just over 5000w once. I have not touched it to feel if it gets hot. 

I was thinking this is a good device to allow me to monitor my usage hourly. 

I'd say go for it. I have the 100A switch over products from TOMZN and never had an issue. There is a video floating online of the copper braid that they use inside in the conducting path and they look beefy. 

Also, I was wondering how accurate these power meters are?

On 2021/03/03 at 6:32 PM, recre8 said:

So far so good. Eskom (after EL) is connected a Side-A/primary side. Inverter load (after EL) is connected as Side-B/secondary side to both units. The output of the first is used for my essential loads (lights and one plugs circuit that all my computers and wifi runs off). The second output is used for my non-essential loads (all other plugs circuits). My stove and geyser are left on only Eskom EL power. The non-essential ATS (automatic transfer switch) is set to manual so that I can make sure all power-heavy appliances are shutdown before switching over. The essential ATS is left on auto. The build quality of the product is really not bad, nice and weighty. I wouldn't feel comfortable pulling 100A through one, but in my current arrangement the most they will see is about 30A. I haven't noticed it getting hot at all, but the area where the relays are housed (not the contactor terminals) do get lukewarm.

The transfer time is sufficient that my PC, router and fibre ONT don't restart, but there is sometimes a visible flash on the lights. Automatic switching does make quite a loud noise, understandable given the heavy terminals they use inside and the fast switching time. 

Pro's:

• Build quality is better than I expected at this price. Terminals are solid, nice and large, although a cage terminal would have been better instead of a washer terminal.
• Price can't be beat, and I really couldn't find anything locally that does the same with the same transfer time.
• The unit is IEC/EN60947-6-1 certified. No SABS stamp obviously, but none of my other MCBs have SABS stamp either. 
• Switching time is fast enough to keep everything powered without restarting. 
• The integrated LEDs are very handy and actually suffice the SANS requirement for visual indicators to be used when alternative power is present. ( I actually bought 2x CHINT DIN Rail dual indicators for this, but they will now be repurposed).

Con's:

• 
  The highlighted part of the unit stand out further (distance from yellow plane to back of unit) than my other MCBs and my specific DB board cover got pushed out of little. A made the flap on the DB board cover that obscured the highlighted part a little bit more flexible to fix the issue. But still, not the same as other MCBs.
• The width of the unit isn't an exact multiple of 18mm (the width of a DIN "way", so fitting way covers/db blanks means there is a slight gap)
• Not available locally. Shipping to SA wasn't extremely expensive, but still a three week wait.

Some photos of the installation attached.

 

 

I hope every are still going strong.  Just curious about 2 things.

1) Why did you put non essential loads on their own ATS. What are you switching Eskom with? A generator?

2) From what i see, your essential loads also use eskom first, not the inverter. Right? If so, I assumed hybrid inverters have their own "internal ATS" meaning they let eskom pass through, and only switch to inverter and battery output, when eskom is down. Or is your inverter different? I think switch to Eskom is 10ms wasted especially for sensitive equipment like fridges or other things with high inrush current at restart. Unless theses no inrush current? 😅

I wanted more manual control than the ATS automatically switching to inverter power when the grid is out. 

My inverter has a critical load output and a smart load output. The critical loads are always connected to the critical load output of the inverter and when there is a power cut the inverter takes over.

The smart load output is used to power the entire house manually if the power is out when solar can generate during the day. I need this to be manual because, i can make sure all Heavy loads like geysers and inductions are not used during this time. I current have a manual changeover to do this switch but looking at options to be able to switch this over remotely and also have a interlock.

Also, i don't want the switchover from grid to Inverter or wise versa instantaneously (Is this even safe for devices, might be since that is what the ATS is doing?), so i plan to use a timer when switching back from inverter power to Grid power

On 2024/06/22 at 12:35 AM, Vjversatile said:

Also, i don't want the switchover from grid to Inverter or wise versa instantaneously (Is this even safe for devices, might be since that is what the ATS is doing?), so i plan to use a timer when switching back from inverter power to Grid power

Instant or near-as is actually better as you avoid surging currents - as long as you don't overload the source

4 hours ago, PsyWulf said:

Instant or near-as is actually better as you avoid surging currents - as long as you don't overload the source

For fridges you need a very fast change over otherwise one could get a lock rotor condition that can at up to 1800W draw cause a overload. For fridges a dead time of 2-3min is ideal. 

@Vjversatile A timer seems fine as you don't need continues power for your loads. Smart switch can work if you can get one with a high enough rating or a basic remote timer and contactor. 

On 2024/06/23 at 12:10 PM, Scorp007 said:

For fridges you need a very fast change over otherwise one could get a lock rotor condition that can at up to 1800W draw cause a overload. For fridges a dead time of 2-3min is ideal. 

@Vjversatile A timer seems fine as you don't need continues power for your loads. Smart switch can work if you can get one with a high enough rating or a basic remote timer and contactor. 

Thanks, Did a rough diagram of my simplest plan. need an extra pair of eyes to point out if i am doign something wrong. when drawing this up, i realized i made a mistake in my original plan where i was planning to use 1NO 1NC for the right side contactor.

please let me know if you see any other issues like that.

Some notes:

1. my Discom connection is 3 phase but i don't have any 3 phase loads. loads are just distributed across each phase.

2. My deye Solar inverter smart Loads output is single phase, so in my current manual changeover setup when i switch between grid and solar inverter, i feed the single phase of my deye inverter to all 3 phases of load.

 

Now, To be able to make this changeover remotely. I plan to use the following hardware.

1. Contactor 3 pole - 3 NO

2. Contactor 4 pole - 3NO, 1NC

3. timer

4. Sonoff mini smart switch (tasmotized)

 

During normal operation, the Left side contactor (3NO)'s coil will be powered through one of the grid phases but to achieve interlock with the solar inverter output, its coil input will be wired via the NC contact of the 2nd contactor. This will ensure that the main contactor will never be powered when the inverter contactor is ON.

When there is a power cut,  both contactors will be Off by default and the house will have no power (except critical loads that are wired separately and connected to critical loads output of inverter). However, i will have the option to turn on the Sonoff Smart switch 'S' from home assistant etc to energise the coil of the 2nd contactor which will power all 3 phases of the house via the single phase output of the Deye solar inverter.

The house will remain powered via the inverter even when the Grid/utility power is back online and that is fine by me. 

When i need to switch back to utility power and offload my inverter, I can manually via my phone turn off the smart switch and this will cause 2nd contactor to deenergized. The NC contact on the 2nd contactor will complete the circuit for the main contactor coil to be energized after a delay of 5 sec which i will set on the timer device since i dont want/need the power switching to happen instantanously. 

Note:

1. My solar inverter is rated for 6kw and the house always remains under 4 kw typically unless my EV is charging which only i operate, so there is almost no chance of overloading the inverter and tripping it.

2.ignore neutrals missing in the diagram, they are common between Grid circuit and Deye inverter circuit and that works just fine in the current state where i have a manual changeover.

 

 

 

Edited June 24, 20242 yr by Vjversatile

3 hours ago, Vjversatile said:

Thanks, Did a rough diagram of my simplest plan. need an extra pair of eyes to point out if i am doign something wrong. when drawing this up, i realized i made a mistake in my original plan where i was planning to use 1NO 1NC for the right side contactor.

please let me know if you see any other issues like that.

Some notes:

1. my Discom connection is 3 phase but i don't have any 3 phase loads. loads are just distributed across each phase.

2. My deye Solar inverter smart Loads output is single phase, so in my current manual changeover setup when i switch between grid and solar inverter, i feed the single phase of my deye inverter to all 3 phases of load.

 

Now, To be able to make this changeover remotely. I plan to use the following hardware.

1. Contactor 3 pole - 3 NO

2. Contactor 4 pole - 3NO, 1NC

3. timer

4. Sonoff mini smart switch (tasmotized)

 

During normal operation, the Left side contactor (3NO)'s coil will be powered through one of the grid phases but to achieve interlock with the solar inverter output, its coil input will be wired via the NC contact of the 2nd contactor. This will ensure that the main contactor will never be powered when the inverter contactor is ON.

When there is a power cut,  both contactors will be Off by default and the house will have no power (except critical loads that are wired separately and connected to critical loads output of inverter). However, i will have the option to turn on the Sonoff Smart switch 'S' from home assistant etc to energise the coil of the 2nd contactor which will power all 3 phases of the house via the single phase output of the Deye solar inverter.

The house will remain powered via the inverter even when the Grid/utility power is back online and that is fine by me. 

When i need to switch back to utility power and offload my inverter, I can manually via my phone turn off the smart switch and this will cause 2nd contactor to deenergized. The NC contact on the 2nd contactor will complete the circuit for the main contactor coil to be energized after a delay of 5 sec which i will set on the timer device since i dont want/need the power switching to happen instantanously. 

Note:

1. My solar inverter is rated for 6kw and the house always remains under 4 kw typically unless my EV is charging which only i operate, so there is almost no chance of overloading the inverter and tripping it.

2.ignore neutrals missing in the diagram, they are common between Grid circuit and Deye inverter circuit and that works just fine in the current state where i have a manual changeover.

 

 

 

I have not looked at the circuit design but the 3xNO top right as well as top left I will just common them. 

The reason is if you have a short on any phase you can burn the contact. I would rather share the load between the 3 at all times. Then 2 less MCBs are required. Use a MCB linked to the inverter output. 

2 hours ago, Scorp007 said:

I have not looked at the circuit design but the 3xNO top right as well as top left I will just common them. 

The reason is if you have a short on any phase you can burn the contact. I would rather share the load between the 3 at all times. Then 2 less MCBs are required. Use a MCB linked to the inverter output. 

Not sure if i followed what you meant.

There are no MCB's in the circuit, they are both contactors. 1 is a 3 pole 3NO contactor and the other is a 4 pole 3NO1NC contactor.

On 2024/06/24 at 4:21 PM, Vjversatile said:

Not sure if i followed what you meant.

There are no MCB's in the circuit, they are both contactors. 1 is a 3 pole 3NO contactor and the other is a 4 pole 3NO1NC contactor.

Sorry I by mistake took the 3 heavy connections bottom left as MCBs where you have the loads indication. 

Can i Put delay Timer on TOmzn ats control line ?

my solar set uses Tomzn ats for almost 3 months and its working good. the inverter was connect directly to the ats, I only power on the inverter  every morning when theres sunlight already and turned off at night when batt. is low .  I want to put delay Timer so that when I turn On the inverter  there is no load yet,  can I put the delay timer in the control lines? 

 

5 hours ago, RodelB said:

Can i Put delay Timer on TOmzn ats control line ?

my solar set uses Tomzn ats for almost 3 months and its working good. the inverter was connect directly to the ats, I only power on the inverter  every morning when theres sunlight already and turned off at night when batt. is low .  I want to put delay Timer so that when I turn On the inverter  there is no load yet,  can I put the delay timer in the control lines? 

 

What model timer do you want to add? 

When you mention control line is this in the load output from the inverter? 

What is the size of the inverter?