rinners

I thought there might finally be a solution so I ordered 5 of them on the 6th June:

https://www.geewiz.co.za/smart-plugs-switches/215619-geewiz-ewelink-wifi-smart-plug-16a-south-african-power-ac-plug-socket-works-with-alexa-google-home-now-with-energy-monitoring-meter.html

They have arrived and after trying them I read this review posted the day after my order:


Had I known it was this bad, and not just a couple percent off, which I was hoping was meant by: "*Please note that the energy measurement is just an estimate and might not be an accurate measurement." then I would not have purchased them. 
I had tried a Tuya version before (Connex variant) which was a little bit off, but decided that having yet another smart home app, especially one as bad as the Tuya was not worth it and returned that also. I would have been fine with a little inaccuracy for finally having a Ewelink solution.
Between the 5 units for the same 2000W heater on the same setting:
5099W
5904W
3531W
1553W
~2500W (forgot to screenshot this one)
It's a nice product barring this one critical flaw. If all you need to know if there is something drawing power then great, but if you are OCD like me then don't bother

I thought there might finally be a solution so I ordered 5 of them on the 6th June:

https://www.geewiz.co.za/smart-plugs-switches/215619-geewiz-ewelink-wifi-smart-plug-16a-south-african-power-ac-plug-socket-works-with-alexa-google-home-now-with-energy-monitoring-meter.html

They have arrived and after trying them I read this review posted the day after my order:


Had I known it was this bad, and not just a couple percent off, which I was hoping was meant by: "*Please note that the energy measurement is just an estimate and might not be an accurate measurement." then I would not have purchased them. 
I had tried a Tuya version before (Connex variant) which was a little bit off, but decided that having yet another smart home app, especially one as bad as the Tuya was not worth it and returned that also. I would have been fine with a little inaccuracy for finally having a Ewelink solution.
Between the 5 units for the same 2000W heater on the same setting:
5099W
5904W
3531W
1553W
~2500W (forgot to screenshot this one)
It's a nice product barring this one critical flaw. If all you need to know if there is something drawing power then great, but if you are OCD like me then don't bother

He's asking R13000 not R13600

Miscalculated.
Thought was R12600 per battery.
R13600 per 2yr old battery ..

Last I heard they were paying the NERSA rate, which is not great. And I believe the net consumer requirement is in place.
Good question. If you're talking about a trolley inverter then I'd think not. That just plugs into the wall and doesn't generate. If you had an inverter/battery system wired into your DB then a fresh COC would be required. But that's still not GENERATING. It's embedded generators that require registration - not specifically solar, though that is the most common scenario.
 
ISTR that this was discussed when Eskom started banging the registration gong recently, and the answer is that you don't need to register but you do need to prove that the system is completely isolated from the grid.

This presumes that the City is actively enforcing. Is that the case? In COCT they use drone footage to spot the solar panels, but are COJ doing anything like that. It seems to me that right now they are just saying that registration is required but aren't actively seeking out properties with solar panels.

Yes there are, I can hear them when there is around 3-4KW solar, and house load is around 3kw

There are currently around 380 entities, switches, inputs, etc. 
The majority is listed here, but needs updating since there were just over a hundred added in the last week: https://solis-modbus.readthedocs.io/en/latest/index.html

Edit: I now understand the N-E bond is to bond the output of the inverter to neutral when the inverter is not receiving a grid feed. Or if it doesn't have it's own N-E bond.
I have heard that at least one electrician say that they don't bother with a contactor/relay and just hard wire it straight.

One of the test you do before signing off the CoC  PFC( prospective fault current) test calculates the current that will flow in the event of an earth fault; i.e., Line to Earth.
It is important that we conduct the tests to make sure that the protective devices installed within a circuit are rated at the correct breaking capacity. Within a domestic installation, it is common to find 6000A (6kA) rated MCB’s installed within a circuit

Never will the inrush current exceed the rating of the breaker. 
Lowest class I think is 2500A.

Look at the IEC symbol on the device:

Those are 2 separate points - you need a C curve 63A CB AND an isolator (although they can be the same device if the CB is isolation rated).

I think you guys is misunderstanding @rinners concern about the secondary cable protection to his outbuilding. First of all just to clarify: There is 2 types of RCD's (EL) 1. RCD with oveload protection and 2. RCD without overload protection. The secondary cable from the main house db is wired from a isolator not a curcuit breaker so no protection for the cable. Need to install a single pole or double pole curcuit breaker to protect the cable. If the sub db board is fitted with RCD's with overload protection it can be used as a main switch and marked as such. If Rcd does not include overload a 2 pole curcuit breaker must be added before the RCD. @frivan if it is marked or used as MAIN SWITCH it needs to interrupt the L & N should it be Main db or sub db.

I have to say, I am incredibly frustrated the past couple of days with the wifi module.
Over the weekend, the inverter just stop responding to home assistant, but also stopped updating sems portal. 
On top of that, can't connect to the Solar wifi AP of the wifi module, because it keeps on resetting, so not even able to get into pv master. Its like having an inverter and just flying blind having no clue what is going on.
Eventually was able to get it online by completely powering down the inverter having everything reset and it was back up...for a day!! Then down again from last night.
Did contact Goodwe on the weekend and they responded. Provided me with latest firmware for the wifi module (which I think I was already on) and they also remotely upgraded my ARM firmware to 17.
So eventually I found some segan solar doc, which shows there is a wifi reset/reload button. This coupled with a few more complete shutdowns of the inverter, managed to reset my wifi module settings, where it doesn't connect to wifi at all and this allowed me to get back in. Only to get everything set up and to fail miserably again.
Eventually I figured out, it happens when I change the password of the Solar wifi AP, because who wants to leave it on the default password right? and allow anyone in range to connect. &*#R&*(@#&)*(@*&(@
So NOT changing that password, resetting again, and now it seems I am back online. So much for security.