power.esrl3

Yes. Same experience. This seems a common issue with pace bms via rs232 to solar assistant.

Grateful to hear your expertise regarding this matter. Thank you.

I have a concern with the BMS parameter of these batteries. IMHO, these mentioned batteries in the title has the same BMS and firmware, based on their videos using PBMS Tools. I have other brand of batteries using the same BMS as theirs, so parameters are the same. Im satisfied because it really does balance the cells after a few cycles, around 20-30 cycles in my case. My main concern is that, this BMS has 57.6v charging parameter wherein if you use loop communication with the inverter, it really does 57.6v. It also tapers current during balance usually at 56v. However, it also floats at 57.6v. My other inverter is Deye with communication to the battery. My setting is grid charge to 100% regardless of sunlight. So 100% is almost always guaranteed daily. Usually at 12noon, the batteries are already full. And my setting is to only discharge at 5PM onwards. So, daily, it is floating at 57.6v for around 4-5 hours. My concern is whether this is healthy or not for the cells. 3.6vpc is quite high for floating where 3.45vpc is full based on readings, and most of the other batteries recommend floating at 3.4vpc. What I expect in loop communication should be to stop charging/floating if 57.6v is reached, as I understand LiFePO4 doesn't need floating. Im quite tempted to switch to manual settings if this will mean prolonging battery life. On the other hand, loop communication is a plus with these batteries, its just that, Im quite hesitant with my observation.

Yeah, still shinwa. I actually have experience some other brand of battery with shinwa BMS that works with CAN, which I already posted in reply previously. However, I think it doesn't universally works. These BMS comms are a mess.

Now I see the problem. That was an important thing you point out "N out to its N in" during bypass/blend. Thank you for clearing it out. I'll definitely use relay. However, I found some youtube video that it is fine with TN-C-S. What say you? The topic is at 24:00

Can you show picture of your battery's communication ports?

Ok last one sir. See attached picture. Assume generator input is Deye's Load Output. This is just a grab photo, as the schematics of my setup is on the other house, and this is the most I can grab from google that is identical to my setup. Jeez, in our country, I think no installer does the neutral bonding. So this is the immediate remedy I can think of to prevent floating neutral during off grid.

Thank you so much for the advice. My thinking was that, essential port is not used anyway and is isolated via ATS when grid is on, and only used when grid is off, so I thought I could just permanently bond the E and N on the essential port.

My installation is something like this: Inverter > External ATS > House DB So when grid is on, everything is non essential, when grid is off, everything is essential. So my thought is, could I just bond the Deye's Essential(aka Load) Neutral Port to a separate ground rod permantly?

I wonder if it is fine to bond E and N Deye's Load/Essential Output permanently?

Now the next question is, what caused it? Loose connections? If so, has it not burn anything due to arcs?

Just wire according to the connector block and/or manual. If it fireworks, sue Deye on why the f*** they labeled it that way.

Dont overthink. Just follow previous replies. The instruction is stated in the manual anyway.

Yes it seems so. It might be an easy fix. Good luck.

Try checking your battery terminal with voltage tester. It seems like the inverter cannot sense voltage from your battery. How about checking isolators/breakers between the inverter and battery if there is? If all good, I suspect inverter is at fault, something hardware related.

Im sick of these suppliers/manufacturers always saying things are normal when obviously its not just to avoid warranty claims. And always try to blame the customers.

I believe the answer to this thread is this. If only they have the same nominal voltage, you can parallel them as dumb battery, then manually set parameters to your inverter/charger. Or you could actually make the master battery the brand you prefer, and the other is dumb. Unfortunately, you got two different nominal voltage pack.

Whoa, before, they just need your username and pass. Now what? Need some sort of certificate as "approved installer"? They must be generalizing their customers as dumb.

That option is useful when you discharged the battery to the point that BMS goes to sleep mode.

Maybe Deye got their senses? I dont understand the reasoning with their restriction. Whatever settings you can change in Solarman can also be changed on the LCD. So regardless, end user can mess with the inverter if they insist to.

Actually my suggestion works to some other brand of battery not specific to Narada. Its just I saw the pictures here looks identical to what I have encountered with that other battery Im talking about. So I figure suggesting it here since most the beginning of the topic says they cant make RS485 work based on the manual. That battery Im talking about does have Shinwa BMS, so are the pictures I saw posted here. We should have a standard on these BMS communications. Its like a cat and mouse right now.

Thanks for the update. Im curious though what details can we see when you tap "Details Data"?

Im actually suggesting anyone here in this thread to try that config. Based on the pictures I saw, the communication ports and dip switches look identical to what I have encountered to some friend of mine but different brand. BMS is also Shinwa. So no hurt on trying. These pictures to be exact: Try DIP switch 000000. If it doesn't work, try this 010000. Thats for single battery only. I'll post the succeeding DIP switch settings for multiple batteries if it works on single battery.

Your BMS looks like identical to what I have experience to some friend. I'd like to suggest this, no hurt on trying but still proceed at your own risk: Inverter side: Pin 2 = solid brown Pin 4 = stripe orange Pin 5 = stripe blue Battery side: Typical T-568B pin config Deye Settings: CAN Port Lithium: 0 Please update me if it works. DIP for single battery: 000000 or 010000 I'll post the succeeding DIP settings for multiple batteries if above suggestion works on single.

You nailed everything what I wanted to say sir! Yes, the risk of updating firmware is quite high if you dont know what you are doing. All the things I have read so far for Deye update especially for 5kW is HMI, improvement to MPPT, configurable output voltage and what not.