KLEVA

He he, and here I grudgingly live with my 1900's (well the century is right) Merc that I spend at least a hour or two every weekend fixing some problem or other... At least R1k a month is spent on that thing (Averaged for last year costs of R15200, excluding my labour), but replacing it is out of the question... It was a new car for Me or WENCH, or food/medical aid/solar (would have cost all 3!)

Can vouch for that. The man goes out of his way to assist, huge thumbs up.

Zigackly!

Hi JDP, not blaming anyones software - This is definately a comms issue at the invertor end. Do you read the checksum result in your software to validate the data? To remote change settings on the BMV, you do need the checksum. Also to query a specific setting. Also the open port reading supplies a checksum with it's result (last characters), which I want to check to validate comms. BMV-70x-HEX-Protocol-public.pdf

Hi All Back even before I was filling my Nissan with "freezable" diesel, I was part of a international test of Butanol, which was run on an old 5 cylinder Passat (Shame, nasty to call it now an old car, she ran like the clappers!). The purpose was that Butanol is a more practical alternative to Methanol or Ethanol, since it requires no modification to the basic fuel system pipes/feeds/etc. Although my data was comprehensive, I no longer have rights to certain parts of it, so I can only give you my opinion and generalisations gathered from the tests on my own vehicle. 1. Butanol can be made organically, the same as Ethanol can be made, it takes a bit of effort, but can be done for around the same cost, or less. 2. Butanol does not require "food stock". There is a concern that Alternative fuels might take away the need for guys like Chris to keep providing us food, if fuel becomes more profitable. Butanol is not as easy as Biodiesel to make yourself, but also is primarily (when Alternatively) made from Algae, rather than Cane. 3. There are NO modifications ness for many vehicles, and only a possible timing (may be computer controlled on later model cars) adjustment. My Passat ran perfectly for 18 months on PURE (no normal fuel) Butanol. Ethanol, can only do 15% mix on even ready cars (look up Brazil's info), and nothing close to 100% (ethanol and methanol will eat all the rubber/plastic on standard cars unless parts are changed). 4. Butanol STINKS! - In your mind think of Paint Stripper, this is almost how bad it smells before/during the time it goes into the tank. I am sure in a non-test environment they can improve that, but it will always be a bit of a nose assault. 5. Power Loss - Alternative fuels often are lossy compared to Petroleum, and that is true for Butanol as well. But that is just what I know from the stats. A Weber carbed, 2.1l Passat felt no different (or maybe I got a small bit used to it), and was completely driveable without really experiencing any difference. 6. So it's great, why aren't I still using it? Unfortunately Butanol in SA is made by SASOL, and their pricing is always based on the current fuel price. So the proper N-Butanol (the flavour you want) seems always to be at least 30% above the fuel price. Also to bear in mind is the fact that SASOL manufacture their Butanol (PS: SASOL have one of the largest Butanol plants worldwide), from Fossil Fuel, not the bio process, so no real advantage even for the "green" team. So, keep this alternative in mind, and feel free to research the small info out there. Just saying that I gave it a try (I wasn't paid for testing, and am not paid now for promoting). Not saying you should drop everything and use it, I just want to make you aware of an alternative that has been often overlooked, and yet has proof and testing. (PS: There are rumours that SASOL ran tests as well, and haven't published their results - Wonder why?) Permission for limited information disclosed - DavidR (13/04/2016)

Hi All, sorry, but there is no software topic yet, so need to post under general... This is a query to the software developers amongst us. Further to my issues with my Axpert (serial comms speed), I have come across an annoying checksum problem (and maybe why my unit refuses to work with the generic software out there): I have checked and double checked results, but this is definately an issue. More importantly, I would like to know if others are experiencing... The software checksum results for Axpert on a simple QPIGS command, only returns a valid checksum about 1/10 responses. I have triple/quadruple checked my checksum calculation and it is definately correct, even taking into account the Axpert oddity. At first I really though that this was my own unit, but with a friends help, I swapped Invertors completely with another unit (everything, including the Comms) - That unit was purchased in the same week as mine. I am getting the same results, bad checksums from the Axpert. Both systems report the later firmware (although they could have been flashed with the same faulty code)... Just wondering if I am unique in this situation, or if this is something I need to take into account with the software (currently a valid poll can take nearly 4 minutes) I recently got a Victron BMV702, which I am adding to my devices, but I think I am missing the point on how their checksum works. I have the basic document from the Victron page, but I may be missing the idea. Would love to hear someone else's thoughts/experiences with the communication protocol (I am already annoyed that I have to drop read packets all the time thanks to the "VE.Direct Text" - Is there any way to turn that off?). Thanks in advance for responses, and apologies if posted in the wrong place, I did try look for a better place to put this query.

Wow, 1 week away and I missed this awesome discussion/argument/beratement/enjoyment.... Everything I have read here, is exactly my situation and worse.The biggest mistake anyone/everyone makes (including those that think they know what they are doing) is underestimating the cost! Seriously, switching to solar is a HUGE capital outlay, and will almost always cost more than even your researched budget. Second mistake, is thinking that a qualified electrician is qualified to install Solar. Sorry, despite how many schools/courses you have been on, DC is a vastly different animal to AC. Even worse is understanding the relationship between the two. If I put this is car terms: you cannot compare a F1 racing car to a Dakar 4x4 - The needs and specifications are completely different. I qualified as a DC electrician with the "Post Office" back in 1652 when Jan arrived, and as a AC electrician in 2000, and even now I battle with the concepts between the two and my DC knowledge has been proven to be scary! In the "Pos", all I had to do was fill a few batteries and if a senior tech told me to replace a battery I did! Wonderful technical training, but I qualified! Take your minimum budget that you have estimated (as a layman) and don't just double it, quadruple it if you want the job well done (NB: Nobody has the RIGHT setup, each install is custom to requirements, and if your installer doesn't know you well - almost personally, those requirements will not be met!) Did I cover everything so far? Sorry for being away so long

Nice Wetkit, my situation is a 12 tube on a 150l geyser (replaced a flat panel), but unless absolute perfectly positioned, a evacuated tube setup battles to replace a thermosiphon system by itself. When ours was first installed the temperatures in the collector where reaching horrific highs (nearly boiling even on cloudy days), but geyser was below 45... It may cost a bit extra, but install a pump (even if you think you don't need it), install a safety mixer (prevents water over certain temp from getting to taps/shower), and a PROPER escape for overheat (last year the geyserwise measured over 90 at one point - deadly to people and to your geyser! I don't even make coffee that hot!). I have a small 12v pump on the Cold side, connected to the same solar panel I use to vent my roof (1 x 20W panel, runs the fans and the pump). It just needs to move the water a bit, even slowly, because thermosiphon is a great idea when it works, but small things can stop it working and make it useless. The advantage is that it auto stops when there is no sun on the tubes... I think it's a win/win.

I wish I had the need for two Thanks mate, I am sorted... Job for this weekend - reinstall the fuses (bypassing them is "apparently" not safe )

Hi All, I am back, busy work week, so everything fell behind. Task for this weekend: get the Victron data into my software properly. Seriously, that lovely VE.Direct protocol is annoying when you want to communicate like a normal program... keep getting that "lovely" text thrown back at me (JDP and others will know what I am talking about). Will discuss in another topic about checksums on the Axpert and Victron (I hate it when they don't follow their own rules/protocols). More importantly, and still relevant to this thread: I have the Victron giving me decent data (or so I think), but am concerned that the load voltage drops way below the Axpert limit before I get to 80% on the Victron. For clarification: the Axpert minimum Voltage (when Utility supplied) is 44V, and there is no way to change that lower, without removing Utility power. I am also a bit wary about bypassing that Voltage limit in case something else is set wrong. Happily, the Victron software, and the Victron itself, tell me that my Ah max is under 40Ah (on a 200Ah bank), and I think I can trust that value, but that is way less than 50% DoD/SoC. The voltage from Axpert and Victron are similar at the time the Axpert kicks out, so I know that at least those readings are reasonably correct... When it kicks out, the Axpert will tell me as low as 35% (SoC) and the Victron will tell me +-81% (SoC). Whilst the Victron readings might be great for my batteries, this is not quite optimal, and also is the absolute lowest I can set. PS: My batteries are currently Ca/Ca, not optimal for the Axpert. Under heavy loads (when everyone forgets we running on batteries), and drawing about 50A+ from batteries, the Mid-Point alarm screams like a <redacted due to profanity>, but normally sits happily at 0.1v. I am hoping this is just a cable issue, but it gets to about 7% difference (about 2v) under these large loads. Do I need to be worried about my batteries yet? Thoughts/ideas?

Sorry, haven't had proper PC access for a bit, combination of Telkom and Visual Studio locking machine until it completed an installation that took 36 hours. Yes, the shunt was in backwards, no writing on mine and the manual & picture with mine didn't exactly make it clear that it should only go in one way. My history is a bit cockeyed for the moment, but will rest everything when I install the new fuses. I'll be a bit quiet this week on forum, I am still fighting with Visual Studio in the evenings and am way behind getting software out.

Bingo! Thanks Mark & Chris, will fix in the morning - I definitely have this backwards then - Chalk up a new lesson learned

While charging, Victron shows -9 A -480W (both negative)

Chris - Come back! There is a wrong way round? Battery Negative -> Shunt -> Invertor Negative If I look at the shunt/wiring the Battery Negative is connected to the brass bar at the top, the B1 & B2 connections plug in from the right hand side and the Invertor Negative is connected to the Brass bar at the bottom...

Hi Chris - I have, but really don't have the time to add Arduinio to my list of programming tools, especially for what I would think is a simple solution. Nothing else I have seen has a simple interface or display already available. Mark - If I could find one I could probably use it, I already have the USB HID/COM working on my software... Where can you get? Anyway, thanks to the WENCH, solution had to be done NOW! so getting a new Geyserwise display next week (She who must be obeyed, also carries my beers, so her happiness wins out over me saving a few bucks)

Thanks JDP, will try a sync again later, It's currently charging but the % going backwards

Ok, did all the above, but still confused by the % readings... Has not dropped below 95% yet even though the voltage on has been down to 44V (on both Victron and Axpert - I deliberately set the switch over lower on the Axpert). Right now it's sitting at 99.5% at 50.82V (Utility charging at 1.2A)... It just feels wrong... I don't think the % is reading right.

Hi Mark, Solar DC was isolated at the time - Completely zero (tested - because have already learned that mistake), but while working on the Axpert side of the PV input (and this was while everything theoretically off (no DC battery input, no AC Input, No Load and Unit turned off!) there was a huge DC type spark across the + & - of the PV input leads (enough to leave black residue and eat a bit of the copper), which indicated a high power on the PV Input wires, even when isolated from the panels...

Oh, but I like the maths - 35A is about 1.7kW, I was trying to draw about 6kW (although with solar feed as well)... Did also pick up something odd on the Axpert while installing a DC breakers this morning - Even when off and no power - there is a huge voltage difference on the DC (Solar/PV) side (enough to spark). Why is the Axpert allowing power out on the PV side? Maths is definately my enemy today... Will carry on tomorrow and think a bit more carefully, maybe I will have an answer then.

Yup, brain not quite on today... But even with max, the monitoring software only shows 15A max each way (Charge vs Discharge)... The new Victron also said 11A, so was a bit confused when a 35A popped... And it at least popped with aplomb (made a shower of sparks) like there was a short somewhere (I was in garage at time, and left a brown trail as I departed - if you know what I mean!) Only installed the fuse this morning, so it may just be a dodgy unit - Everything still reading correctly so far (Axpert and Victron close enough values).

Feck, just popped a fuse, the Victron lost it's settings (seriously) when it lost power and went back to default GRRRRRRRR. Start again! Was testing the high power load (geyser & AC), and apparently (or obviously) a 35A fuse on the batteries told me to F-off and popped, cutting all power (like it's supposed to)... But I suppose this is what playing with new toy learns you

Ok, pennies starting to fall into place... So, if I understand this right: Switch to Utility charging until batteries full Turn off invertor (again) Disconnect ALL power in/out of invertor (both AC/DC) Check that batteries are at required Voltage (eg: 54V) Sync the Victron (+ & - keys) But I still feel as though something is missing, do I not need to set up anything else? @jdp can you offer any further insight specific to the Axpert? According to what I get in the manual, the defaults should be fine if treating as normal lead/acid. Can do all these steps tonight, and the manual isn't helping because some of the terms are like Owls flying above my head today. Have set option 1 - 210Ah & Option 69 - Mid (as per the quickstart), but thats about all I have touched, not following the rest properly, dunno, maybe my brain just isn't in work mode today. Would love to blame @Camel, but he did not force me to have 4 draughts last night

Now we ask @Energy nicely and polite like Please Dear Sir, may we request your minor attention and request that you assist us in adding the following sections to your wonderful forum...

Please don't leave me hanging - according to the current/default setup - Victron reckons my batteries are 100% but Axpert is telling me 46%. I understand the Axpert is notoriusly wrong, but thats a big difference. Voltages (both) at around 52.5V. And the rest of the values tie up nicely, including the KLEVA Solar manually calculated. I am sure I am missing something out of the nearly 70 settings on the Victron... I will trust the Victron over the Axpert, but only if I know it is set properly. For now, the Axpert still has control.

So where are we at if we use that... This is what I know so far (but I know there are others, and description need to be edited/adjusted by each developer) Axpert Firmware (Coulomb & Weber from Aus) AICC - Axpert, Victron 702 (JDP & Manie?) SolarMon/SolarWeb - ??? (to be finalised) KLEVA Solar Monitor - Axpert, Victron 702, Affini (KLEVA) Com0Com - Generic (All) WatchPower - Axpert (All) +++