KLEVA

Hey @Chris Hobson - Quite keen on that setup, any further progress? Would love to know a bit more (my electronic skills are 20+ years, and 20+ years inexperience, out of date).

Try living in a household with 2 non-functioningworking adult children (26 & 28), who just sit around and steal your coffee all day. Forget they turned the kettle on 10 min ago, so it must go on again!!! Counted 38 times one day before the Wife lost it! She has started locking the kettle away in the FRIDGE (we lock our fridge due to the same "ahem" adults) before she goes to work.

Hi TTT I don't know of any 200W available currently at this spec but my 100W panels in a 2+2 config conform to that. They are the standard Renysys 100W panels, I use them on my Camper Van and on the small controllers in house/gate motor. I get mine locally from a Battery place in Hillcrest for around R900/each when buying 4 at a time (last purchased in Feb this year)

Wow - even with the 2x6 you winning more than me... I have a nasty shade problem that kills about 3 hours of generation (neighbour refuses to let me get rid of a tree) and generate about 8kW with almost the same panels (2.85kW panels roughly), so quite sure you will see an improvement. Only get about 5 hours a day in Winter and at a bad angle, In Summer hoping to get 8 hours at proper angle and maybe I will get to about 13-15kW (holding thumbs if that damn tree doesn't get to high)... I have a office load that commits me to at least 400W that I cannot get rid of without closing business, and operates 24/7. So not quite off Metro Power yet, but no more roof room and no more budget, so I am at my limits.

I have a valid PIP/Axpert that also refuses flash changes and the odd setting that refuses to work - Could even just be a Voltronics issue that they have never admitted (see my original posts in 2016 about settings that refused to change and have never changed to date).

@Gnome, not saying you are wrong, but @Coulomb knows the innards of these things probably backwards and in his sleep, and hopefully will be able to spot with a bit more info. I could even be a faulty/outdated chip that can't flash the firmware, or a dodgy upload that has screwed the rest up since - If we can 100% determine that it is a Voltronics unit then Coulomb can offer proper chances at fix.

Can I do the stripper club moment then? Take it off, Take it off, Show us your screws - he he... @stuvowe still have some debate, even after the picture. Are you able to remove the unit, open it and show us the circuit boards? @Coulomb is like almost the worldwide expert (well at least one that can speak english) on these things and could hopefully easily spot whether the insides are fake or not. Start with the Connection panel at the bottom, which looks like the same connections as the Voltronics units, but then also open the top and get pics of the top near the fans (also if you have black damage marks, show those too), then the general layout.

I am prepared to put some money on the fact that the higher Voltage will win out... Lower wire resistance (lower amps, higher voltage), better choices for the MPPT controller to make (the bigger the range it has much more chance to get the best kW out of panels). From recently acquired knowledge and experience, the closer you can get to the max MPPT range the better. I was running about 180V on a string and was getting pathetic results, and when I jumped to 300+ V on a string I got closer to the panel rated values because the MPPT could work closer to it's best. R10 bucks, payable in reputation points?

@Gnome & @Coulomb: Doesn't look 100% like our Axperts/PIP but seems extremely close. The only diff I can see physically is the rounded top edge that I haven't seen on Axperts locally. But this definately looks like a Voltronics unit/clone to me... @plonkster - Meanie - Budgets dictate our Invertors, we can't all afford the Blue stuff

@Langman, @Chris Hobson on the Forum can supply, he usually has stock. Got one from him last week.

Got in Hemel!!! I don't have the space for that let alone the time - That looks like it can power an Electric car for WEEKS! Noice!

Hi All Had a look at the few topics discussing Axpert 5KVA repairs already, but just asking again (since last answer was 2016)... Other than Mecer (only my LAST resort, I don't trust them after previous PC experiences), who else can I approach to repair my Axpert? I am fairly sure it's a Mosfet issue, and it is out of warranty. The current Error is 09. I just don't have the time/patience/electronic skill to do or even want to do myself. I have too much on my plate. I just want to send it in, get a quote, repair if warranted price wise and be done. Since I have a new Invertor, and some Ca/Ca batteries left - I was thinking about using this as a UPS only type system in my office (rather than waste), or to help get a friend into the solar world. I don't need it repaired, so not going to pay a fortune... My Non-Profit Organisation could also take a win if I donate it and batteries in working condition. (https://www.ben.org.za). So appreciate the info that you might have. Regards KLEVA

@seant, Not sure, but what panels are you using? Surely a MPPT controller would select it's best - based on the 250-330W panel example, most of those work around 30-32V (up to a Voc of 40), so unless you have full light to your panels you could be losing under slightly low light conditions. A 3 panel string would be able to work when shaded by cloud/tree but a 2 panel might only be able to work if full sunlight? My experience was that even on semi-cloudy days I was still getting power. I think 2 can't get the best on an Axpert, how low can the Outback go? @plonkster - Just got stung a bit with Imeon, it wants 140+V, but even serialising my existing 6 panels wan't enough to keep it using it's best (even though it was within spec). I had to add more panels to the series to get it closer to the max of 400V that its max. It's MPPT still keeps it around 230V, but at least getting the rated W now. Big difference since the Axpert would get 1400-1600W for the same panels that the Imeon could only get 800W out of. Adding panels (ie: increasing the Voltage to closer to the Imeon optim), and immediately got the 2000+W (11panels in Winter, expecting 2900W in Summer)

Sorry, quickly getting back to the cheapest panels - As of today, the cheapest panels I have found are from ArtSolar in Durban (one of the few/only local manufacturers). They have a 72cell 330-350W panel at decent pricing (about R2k). Everything else carries an import cost which makes them expensive. Quality wise it's a bit difficult to say if they are the same as any imported product from CanadaSolar/Renesys/and many others, but the cost difference needs to be kept in mind (I have 5 from them, but they are new so how long they last and their continued output is still to be experienced). Batteries - Depends on usage. At the moment I see the users on this forum ravining about the Polyntech (sorry if spelling is wrong) and also various Lithium types. It is going to depend not only on the Invertor you eventually choose, but also the way you need to use them - PS: These are normally, and should be, a MUCH bigger expense than the actual invertor you choose.

IMHO - The most benefit will come from sorting out the geyser first, Solar Electricity is still very expensive, but Solar Water heating is cheap enough now, and you will be able to get rid of 4hours of geyser power (anywhere from 6kW to 16kW per day dependant on your current element size). 1. Obviously, your geyser has to be Solar compatible. You can't do Solar Water heating with a normal geyser. 2. Buy a GeyserWise (There are some slightly cheaper products but they really don't work as well) - If you are going to need to pump (most systems/setups do) then a Geyserwise Max, otherwise a GeyserWise TSE will work (be careful, I have had to change because I thought I could get away with the cheaper model). The only and biggest negative with a GeyserWise is their completely UGLY control panel (seriously, hide it somewhere out of direct site!) 3. Evacuated tubes are relatively cheap, and can be installed by most plumbers (even those with limited solar experience), but I do advise that if they think you only need 12 tubes, multiply it by at least 50% (18 tubes). My logic behind that is that your geyser can get hotter than you want, but you have to turn on power if you need to just get it to shower temps if your setup is not heating enough. Adding to a Evacuated tube array needs an almost new install. If you find it getting far too hot, especially in Summer, then it is a simple process to remove a few tubes and keep them in your garage. 4. Pump for Solar Water Heating (Geyser) - My thoughts here are to use a pump with a 10Ah battery, a cheap charge controller and a smallish solar panel. Think about it, unlike normal electricity, the pump only needs to operate when the sun is shining and the tubes are getting heat... At night the pump will not operate at all anyway... The GeyserWise Max has a proper temp controller and a relay to operate that pump when ness (see item 1) Now the tougher more expensive stuff... This might not save you money in the long run, but will get you on the Solar Electricity track: 1. You can always start with the small stuff in your house that already runs off 12VDC (You will be often surprised how much)... Alarm Systems, Automated Gates, Downlighters, Intercoms, Portable Phones, DSTV, Some Laptops, CCTV systems +++. A nice powerful 12V battery bank, that is charged with a few small panels can make a huge difference. As an example I have 200W worth of panels whose sole job is to keep a reliable 100Ah battery charged via a realitively cheap Ellies Controller, I have a 12VDC bus that runs off this battery that runs through my house. I keep a cheap battery charger (Midas special) on standby to charge the battery if I have had limited solar power for a few days. But that battery operates Constantly powered small LED strips inside my house (never dark), My DSTV (before we abandoned due to cost), my Gate/Intercom, and Alarm. Admittedly I have a cheap, cheap Voltage monitor on the battery that sits near my desk to make sure the voltage never drops below 11.5V, but I only look at that once or twice when I get home from work (It only tells me if I need to turn on the battery charger - don't want to be without alarm/lights/gate when you wake up in the morning). 2. Your budget is already way too small to replace the big electricity consumers in your house otherwise. A borehole pump and pool pump are huge power consumers. Second only to a heating element (Geyser/Stove/Oven/Dryers), anything with a motor usually is one of your largest consumers. As mentioned, try reduce it's load as initial trigger (I bought a lower power kettle for example, since it's instant on power was lower). Simple math - A borehole/pool pump has a hellava kick at startup, and a small solar electricity setup will trip. Again, my estimates are that you need to work at about 4-5x the actual power of a motor to calculated it's initial startup (obviously better equipment and better motors behave better, but this is just my opinion). What this means is that if you have a 0.75hp pool pump, you have to cater for it's startup power for anywhere from 1-30seconds (7.5hp or 5.5kW). You will have to pay quite a lot for an Invertor that can handle that load, and also the Batteries that will need to take that load - and be able to last through that heavy cycle repeatedly. 3. Avoid the loads I mentioned above (2) from being on your Solar plan. Almost everything else like lighting, computers/laptops, general household, can be run on Solar Electricity for much lower values. Even starting with just changing your lighting to LED instead of Incandescent will save a big chunk. Not trying to dissuade you from going with Solar, in fact I am hoping you do go the route (even if only to stick it to the man). But I would prefer that you do it within your mentioned budget. I have been stung by bad advise, bad suppliers, wrong information, etc and it has cost me a lot more money than it ever should (4x more). (Feel Free to read the Blogs on this forum - KLEVA's Lessons Learned). But I cannot advise you strongly enough to do the Solar Water Heating route first - you will see and appreciate the benefits far better.

Don't think so @Leonc, even above their max of 40V+/panel (at over 1000l/m2) this only gives you 120V per string, so well within spec. We were just playing with the idea of 4 panels per string, and what the guys are saying above is that this can maybe jump the line (4 panels might be able to hit 160V, which is above spec). So it seems everyone is saying stay with the 3. The Axperts MPPT can work down to lower voltages than the on-grid systems it seems. And my experience with 3x250W panels per string did work quite well, my smoke released Axpert is mainly due to input issues with supply rather than the panels.

Yay... Voltage roulette is the best game ever

Thanks. Voc is about 37 or 38VDc on most 250 to 330 panels I have seen, so based on this 4 panels in series on an Axpert would be BAD in SA. If I have had up to 160V on 3 panels (getting more than 1000/m2), that would mean nearly 200V on a string of 4. Got it. I getting "kleva" er

@EnergyThanks, admittedly I also suffered from this issue when just started... Now back to the issue of Axpert error: * My experience has tought me, that the error 9 (09) is related to many errors, usually hardware issues rather than software. Something on the circuit boards is causing an issue. In my case it was blown mosfets.

Hi, maybe I need to clarify more... 1. I have the old type disk meter - so have no issues about not getting back what I put in, have checked and it spins backwards just as much as it spins in (only did this for the test, still not sure if it's legal to supply back to my municipality yet). It does have a block though - so it can't run backwards and read accurately all the time... So can have a point where I feed in to Metro and the Meter doesn't register. Thats actually the point of this question, I don't want to give Metro my power free, but at the same time I don't want to screw them over. 2. my Load (the pump), I only want to kick in when the Imeon is feeding back to the grid. Have no issues with a minute or so delay. The pump is on the INPUT side of the Imeon (IE: it will not affect the readings on the Imeon, the Imeon will always still see a load pushed back to the grid). The load can be anything that trips when the PV input Power exceeds the AC output power... I just want to trip a relay. (eg: Imeon feeds back 500W to grid, I want it to flick a switch to turn on a "load"). 3. All my tools and software that operate outside of the Imeon, can only tell me Current(A) values. But they all don't care which way the current is following, so I cannot detect with my tools whether I am feeding back to the grid or using from the grid. Does that make better sense of what I am trying to do? I have no idea how to use/impliment the above scenarios (PS: Please bear in mind that my budget is NILL, so a 5k+ option is unrealistic for me)

Ok, so if I under-sand (pun intended), a min of a 4 string should be used on an Axpert (roughly 30x4 under load for 250-350W panels). Is the ultimate max voltage not too high or have I completely lost the plot? If the panels give it more (let's say for example 160V, when only specced at 150V), won't that create a bigger problem? I do understand that the MPPT part of the system will try reduce to an acceptable range, but where do we find a break point? If I parallel all 6 panels, isn't that Voltage at now roughly 240V when the system is only designed for 150V? I am serious, no-one has explained that part to me properly. I thought I always had to keep the max PV voltage BELOW the Invertor/Axpert max.

I did not know that, shows you can always learn something. I was using 3+3 configuration of 250W panels (roughly 80V in Winter - 110V in summer, that the Axpert was telling me). Although I didn't experience (or didn't think I did) reduced Wattage from the panels. I often got more in Summer, than rated (up to 1650W logged at some points). @plonkster - Sorry, thats Greek. Umm, what does that mean on an Axpert, should we be putting 250-300W panels in a different combination?

Hi Chris, unless I am missing something, I don't see any of these that have a relay/switch to trigger something external?

Hi all I have an Imeon now, which can feed back to the grid. Since I had to get extra panels to generate the VDC, I now generate nearly 1.5kW more than ness. How can I detect when there is power feeding back to the Grid to be able to turn a relay/switch on/off? Eg: to turn on a pump to move water from lower tank to high tank...

Tend to agree with @Riaanh & @plonkster, the Voltage is probably not relevant since it is a current meter for DC (ie: no induction, just a shunt). From your description it sounds like it doesn't have a illumination/globe. Just bear in mind that it will most likely be quite inaccurate down the low end of the current range, so can only really be a basic guide. But I am curious about what you have that is 105 Volts DC? I wouldn't try use this on the PV side though, the internal resistance is unknown so if a MPPT controller is involved then it could play havoc with it's logic. Battery side only. Does it not have any writing on it, or a picture?