sjp100

Sigenergy SigenStor is IP66 rated. 6kW inverter and 9kWh 0.5c batteries which stack underneath inverter.

Had the same issue of fridge light flickering. Was fixed when I sorted my Earth/Neutral bond

Hi all So according to the spec sheet the Sunsynk Powerlynk X and XL can handle a bypass current of 40 amps. Does this mean that if Eskom is connected the inverter can handle loads of 40 amps without an issue for extended periods of time, eg the entire day? Obviously once Eskom fails you are reduced to 24 amps (for XL model). Also what does "Output THD (Resistor Load)" mean? I am assuming it has to do with power factor, in this 3% case 0,97 leading to 0,97 lagging TIA

Hi all. My system is a kodak VMIII 3.24 with 2 x Giter G2500-24 batteries and 4 550w solar panels So I had a 1 Giter battery running since May 2022 and wanted to get a second battery to increase capacity, unfortunately the batteries were removed from market and I was unable to. Fast forward to December 2023 and I was able to source a used battery. I connected it up and realized that my old batteries SOH (State of health) is alot worse that the newly sourced one. Reason being is I didn't realize my BMS was not set up correctly and invertedly I overcharged the cells. Here is a small table I made comparing the 2 batteries. The BMS is now functional so SOC comes from that info and kWh from a watt meter I have connected. Top battery is my old original, the bad one. Bottom battery is the newly sourced one. As you can see the performance difference is quite significant. I want to know if I can salvage this? Option 1: Setup the bank and run it like it is. Bottom battery (good battery) is new master and feeds with positive wire to inverter. Top battery (bad battery) is slave and feeds with negative wire to inverter. this does cause varying depletion as the SOC's in both batteries don't correspond when inverter is powered by battery only Option 2: Both positive and negative come from master and it works harder that the slave, hopefully this will balance it out more. I don't mind being limited on discharge current, I just need more capacity for the long loadshedding hours and the inevitable power outage through the night. Your inputs will be greatly appreciated. TIA

Thank you, I had the wrong profile selected. It is working now ass it should

That just seems like another sigh that the BMS is not working

Hi all. I have a kodak VMIII OG3.24 paired with 1 off Giter G2500-24 battery So I recently noticed quite a high discrepancy between my battery SOC led's and what my inverter is reporting. The led's will indicate a SOC between 75-95% (4 led's on) while the inverter shows battery capacity at 47%. Also there is no indication on the inverter screen that BMS is functional. Even if I unplug the BMS cable nothing happens, no errors, no led's going on or off, no change at all. If someone can shed some light I will appreciate it. TIA

Usually it is because of the waterproofing warranty on the roof itself, or at least that is why I didn't drill through mine. Once you drill through this, you loose your warrantee and any issues that arise from that is yours to fix and could cost more than you bargained for.

@Marcodp I recently went through this excersize with my panels and I found this online calculater that aasisted me. https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/wind-load Its pretty self explanatory. For wind speed look at historical data for the closest airport, usually posted on their website. you can add 20% (or more if you wish) to the max measured as a safety factor. Angle is the panel angle to the roof, about 30 degrees is optimal for South Africa year round. The rest is pretty self explanatory. Once you get the Newton value devide by 9.8 and you have the required weight in kg

Will have a look a little later, I do have a wattmeter that measures power factor aswell.

Not at all. They have been running now for a solid hour and still cool to the touch. They are quite beefy so not worried.

Hi guys. I finalized my install over the weekend and added it to my main install post. You can view that here if you wish. once again thank you to @frivan @Scorp007 @markus_m2 @Modina @BritishRacingGreen @GerhardK83 @JustinSchoeman @TaliaB and anybody who I might have forgotten who assisted in this task. I really appreciated each ones input.

So 1 final mod to our system. I derated the geyser element to run at around 1 kw via the inverter, and with an automatic changeover switch I can run it at 2kw from Eskom power. Everything is controlled via eWelink so I can manage it from my phone. Here is a sketch of the circuit. I will be adding a Sonoff loadshedding detector at a later stage to switch geyser and pool pump off when mains aren't available. This will save strain on my battery. Reason being can be found here 3 capacitors in 3D printed housing, I know it doesn't look pretty but it will be in the roof and no one will see it. Unfortunately I ran out of red insulation tape and heat shrink, otherwise I would have used that instead of the black and yellow. i did add a little solder to each terminal to ensure solid connection between wire and capacitor. Extra piece of insulation between the capacitor poles for added protection. Install in roof. Geyser running via Eskom Geyser running via inverter

IT WORKS. YOU GUYS ARE F**KING AWESOME!!!! 160v with the 3 caps. An unfortunate side effect is that the timer does not work on 160v, so I will have to rethink my circuitry. But huge thanks to each and every one who assisted.