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Thank you for the great forum, Safe Driving over the weekend. Sincerely Jason


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  1. I am enjoying the outcome of the answers so far, thanks guys...looks like "out of sight"" she goes
  2. We have 8 panels in one string. I've found a lot of earthing info on this site, but can't find a specific answer to this question: Does one really need to earth each individual panel, or is it OK to earth just one and have the mounting structure effectively earth the rest (aluminium / Renusol rails), or maybe earth even second or third one (in which case you may as well just do each one). Many thanks - for future answer to this and also all the other good info you guys have posted, this is one of the best sites I've found in ages and I find myself checking "new posts" every time I have a free minute
  3. Hey guys, Our DIY solar install is coming along very nicely! Goodwe 4.6 2.5kwp on the roof Pylontech 3000 (unfortunately didn't get it before the country ran out of stock, but installing everything so as to make this a quick add once we get one). Goodwe and sub-DBs are being installed in the garage - from the garage it's a double brick drill straight into the kitchen cupboard of a flatlet. Flatlet is not being used / kitchen cupboards are empty. I would like to do it this way so as to keep the expensive battery out of sight and safer (the garage itself isn't particularly secure, already bit worried about the inverter being stolen). Questions - How much of a fire hazard do these batteries pose? (Pylontech or similar) Obviously many install these indoors, but would you prefer an "outdoor" (garage without flammable materials) install if possible? (weigh up fire hazard vs. battery theft hazard) And how hot do they run? Logic tells me they should be installed in a ventilated space (could install small fan in cupboard door) but then if I look at the Pylontech cases there's not much ventilation going on there between two stacked batteries?
  4. Can one lay the EzMeter cable (between Smartmeter and inverter) in the same conduit as the AC cable, or should one rather separate? Fact that the Ezmeter is generally installed inside an AC DB-Board makes me think it should be fine, but I remember someone saying one could lay such comms cables together with DC cables (thereby inferring that they shouldn't be mixed with AC cables?)
  5. I'm also after one in Pretoria / Jo'burg?
  6. Hi all, With the recent shortage of batteries, I would like to still go ahead and install a Goodwe ES and PV on the roof, and then add the batteries at a later stage when they become available. This wouldn't be an issue, would it? Surely there's no restriction or reason which says this inverter HAS to have batteries connected?
  7. We installed our solar heater around 8 years ago - Solaheart I think it's called. Back then it cost R28k (after Eskom DSM subsidy, which you won't get anymore). This was prior to us having PV ( in fact there's still no PV on our roof, but that's about to change in 2 weeks If you compare solar heater to PV - well, I'm no expert but I suspect: Clean install (no existing PV) - The solar heater (or heat pump, depending where you live) will work out cheaper BUT, if you already have a PV system installed then the argument to add more PV panels to do the heating of an existing geyser rather than investing in a new solar heater could indeed be valid...
  8. Presume your 3 friends all live in Cape Town or similar? In Pretoria my solar water heater works like a bomb - I can completely switch off the electric backup to it for 8 months of the year, in winter it uses a bit (less than 1kwh per day), but I can promise you (in our scenario) a heat pump will come nowhere close to such savings year round...system paid for itself in 3.5 years. Having said that - it is a decent solar heater system, not some Chinese rubbish installed facing south
  9. My last deciding factor in CB vs fuse - I know one shouldn't mix AC and DC cables in the same trunking or DB, what about two pairs of DC cables with different voltages? In this example, can one install into one single sub-DB the cables and circuit breakers for the PV (350VDC) AND for the battery (48VDC)?
  10. Guys, please indulge my ignorance and learning process: Looking for a CB between Pylontech batteries and goodwe inverter. Comparing the following two: Single Pole and Neutral MCB 100A (230 VAC - 60 VDC) Double Pole MCB 100A (400 VAC - 125 VDC) What's the difference between 1P+N compared to 2P? I suspect this point alone will sway it towards the more expensive option 2? Also, does 60V DC leave enough "room" (I suspect it should), or would you rather overspec with 125V of option 2?
  11. The past few weeks spent reading posts here have been invaluable - learnt a bucket load!!! Thanks to all the knowledgable guys for your contributions! This is an amazing forum...
  12. Appreciate @plonkster Sho, that ABB breaker is indeed a bank-breaker What about something like Hager - Says it is "Compatible with DC Voltage Application", although it doesn't give much more detail on it's DC compatibility - it's rated voltage is 230V AC, considering the battery will be call it 55V max DC (Pylontechs) I'd think this breaker should be good? Schneider Electric C120N series - specifically mentions rated operating voltage <= 250V DC Lovato - rated 60V DC. Not sure of the brand Lovato though? (last thing I want to do is install some cheap crap)
  13. Thanks Plonkster, so it really only comes down to cost? The space saving, reduced complexity and ease of troubleshooting capability the CB has over the fuses may just justify the added costs Any recommendations on DC circuit breakers? Looking for a 100A Battery "disconnect" CB (correctly DC rated)
  14. Hi guys, Everybody seems to protect the DC side of their installations (battery to inverter and PV to inverter) with fuses rather than circuit breakers... I know fuses generally interrupt the flow of power quicker than a CB - is this a requirement / preferred on the DC side? Any other reason why fuses are preferred over CB's? Cheers, Markus
  15. Another one for you clever okes out there So one has a hybrid setup...wanting to have an "alarm" of sorts to tell me when there is load shedding. Most basic solutions I guess would be a relay of sorts with an indicator light - only lights up when Eskom does what it does best. Even better would be a combo light as above PLUS an audible alarm of sorts - something that beeps quite loud when power first goes off, and subsequently beeps at half volume every 10 seconds or so - with a push-button to "confirm" / stop the beeping. Any ideas / any standard products out there that offer this functionality?
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