markus_m2

Hi Markus
Yes I did and they actually do make a difference on my setup.

If you install a sub-DB in the garage fed from the main DB after the main isolator, the installation is fully compliant. The key requirement is that the feeder cable to the sub-DB must be correctly sized to supply the combined maximum demand of both the inverter and the EV charger. A 10 mm² copper feed from the main DB (taken after the main switch) is generally adequate for this application, provided that: The cable is correctly protected by an MCB sized for the cable’s current-carrying capacity. The sub-DB contains the appropriate switchgear, including separate protection for the inverter and the EV charger. Voltage drop is within acceptable limits for the run length.

All circuits must originate from and be protected within the "MAIN" distribution board that complies with SANS 10142-1.
The EV charger circuit requires its own dedicated circuit breaker and appropriate earth leakage protection (Type B), which must be installed in the "MAIN" distribution board. The main or first distribution board must have a main switch disconnector that can cut off the entire supply, and this switch should be mounted in or next to the DB.
The "point of control" is defined as the point at which the consumer has access to a device (the main switch) to switch off all electrical installation from the electricity supplied by the point of supply. 
You are not allowed to connect any curcuit before the main switch in the main or first db board( supply cable point of control). The budgie box against the wall is mainly for isolation purposes should an electrician need to change the main switch.

Unfortunately can't give advice on either ... I installed my wallbox without municipal permit - never even heard that this is required, surely that's just for a commercial install?

From a safety perspective it should be fine to feed directly from municipal supply (after the municipal breaker and meter), but not sure what the by-laws say... following...

Just recently got myself a used BMW i3 .... LOVING IT!!!!
Now going back down the rabbit hole of having to upgrade the PV System to account for the new consumption ... and that consumption is quite something!!! Since plugged in our household consumption has more than doubled! 🥴 Totally worth it though, looking forward to an upgraded system 😁
Anyways, not that I have much experience, the only thing that I checked out was the battery SOH - and in the case of the BM you can't actually check the SOH itself, but rather the "capacity" of the battery which is apparently not an accurate indicator of SOH, but does give a good idea of where the battery is at ...
I turned down 2 i3's due to poor "capacity", both between 40 - 60,000km.
Third one I checked had over a 100,000km, beyond my comfort zone and wouldn't have been on my radar to check out, but stumbled on it by chance - according to the "capacity" reading it was well over 90% "SOH", waaay better than the previous two that had done only half the km's, so I bit the bullet and am super chuffed so far (been two weeks)...have since run the battery down to 5% and the range driven indeed does correspond with the capacity reading, so all seems great!
The capacity reading on the BM can be found through a "secret menu" - although the ease with which this menu was found through Google makes it "not so secret" 🤣

Hi Markus, yip, you are correct. I climbed into the roof and replaced the extension by simply splicing in a 5m length of 1mm Cabtyre (I had no network cable around). Voila, it works perfectly in that location. To confirm my suspicions, I took the "dodgy" sensor cable to another THR on opposite end of home and subject to more interference, and it did exactly the same (cutting between 31-36 deg). If I remove the OEM extension the sensor works perfectly on it's 0.5m cable.
It is beyond logic that the OEM extension cable caused specific range failures on 3 out of 3 extension cables, but that is what I have found. I do not suggest anyone buy these RL560 5m extenders, if they want to use full range of sensor. My suspicion is the wire is too thin (thinner than sensor cable) and/or subject to interference.
Thanks again Markus, hope Sonoff upgrade this RL560 product and remove existing stocks. 

Had same issue on my own extension cable...blanked out between roughly 28deg and 42deg....
Extension was made up of good quality UTP cable, about 15m. 
Tried many tricks to fix this, and what eventually did it was changing to STP cable! Seems the cable needs the shielding...
@Muchachos you did mention using an extension although it sounds like the original Sonoff extension? Weird, that should work..how many meters you extending?

Ain't that the truth! 🤣

Absolutely agree!
While many companies do use sly marketing, this is completely devious and dishonest...

Absolutely agree!
While many companies do use sly marketing, this is completely devious and dishonest...

"Hybrid inverter 6.5kW combined AC load & DC charge"
This is extremely devious marketing. I would not do business with them. Walk away, if you still can. 

Sunsynk 5kW updated yesterday 09 Oct 23, same version
SW Ver.M 3.3.8.4 / S  1.5.1.5 / C E.4.3.3

My bet is on you exporting power and being charged for it...
Make sure your CT coil is correctly installed and disable export to grid.

My bet is on you exporting power and being charged for it...
Make sure your CT coil is correctly installed and disable export to grid.

My bet is on you exporting power and being charged for it...
Make sure your CT coil is correctly installed and disable export to grid.

My bet is on you exporting power and being charged for it...
Make sure your CT coil is correctly installed and disable export to grid.

Yep, tried it according to https://github.com/irekzielinski/Pylontech-Battery-Monitoring/blob/master/README.md
But couldn't get it working ... somewhere between the D1 Mini, the RSS232 to TTL and the battery I couldn't pickup any comms - eventually ran out of time without it working, sorry can't give more reasons what the issue was...
 

For anybody else wondering about the different IMP ratings, here's the "official" reply from Goodwe:
So, unlike Sunsynk where a firmware upgrade seemingly bumped up the Max input current, this Goodwe came out with an "upgraded hardware" version down the line...

Also in for one ...

Yes congrats @Gefahrlich...pls write a review of the install and operation 😉

Personally I wouldn't bother with seperate panels and seperate geyserwise mppt...that'll limit those panels to only heating water (wasted potential once water is done heating)
Rather invest the money in more panels connecting to your main system and have that heat the water.

Personally I wouldn't bother with seperate panels and seperate geyserwise mppt...that'll limit those panels to only heating water (wasted potential once water is done heating)
Rather invest the money in more panels connecting to your main system and have that heat the water.

20% is about right this time of year...as mentioned, give the sun some time to climb higher. At 30deg tilt you'll be styling around September;-)

Disclaimer: I don't have much experience with aux (yet, by next week my father in law's geyser will be on aux)...
I would do as you're suggesting- all non-essentials on aux, wire and program correctly, but include a change-over switch to Eskom. That way, you manually manage your loads while on aux (and correct setup will disconnect aux below certain battery level), but you still have option to connect direct Eskom in case you need to run beyond pass-through limitations (seldom, but best to future proof from the start)...
Best of both worlds 😉

Disclaimer: I don't have much experience with aux (yet, by next week my father in law's geyser will be on aux)...
I would do as you're suggesting- all non-essentials on aux, wire and program correctly, but include a change-over switch to Eskom. That way, you manually manage your loads while on aux (and correct setup will disconnect aux below certain battery level), but you still have option to connect direct Eskom in case you need to run beyond pass-through limitations (seldom, but best to future proof from the start)...
Best of both worlds 😉