fuzex

So first thing I did was check the filters. Not much debris. Second thing I removed the shower head and it starting working. Decided to remove the filter in the shower head and it still works after putting it back on. Also made some adjustments to the dials. Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

So first thing I did was check the filters. Not much debris. Second thing I removed the shower head and it starting working. Decided to remove the filter in the shower head and it still works after putting it back on. Also made some adjustments to the dials. Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

So first thing I did was check the filters. Not much debris. Second thing I removed the shower head and it starting working. Decided to remove the filter in the shower head and it still works after putting it back on. Also made some adjustments to the dials. Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

Without knowing your Totai it does seem like there is not a high enough flow of water to get it to ignite. May be the rate of flow in the kitchen is higher than the bathroom. 
Have you checked the battery if you have a unit that ignites from battery? 

What Scorp said ^^^
In addition... somewhere in there will be a mechanism for sensing the water flow (from turning on a tap) or water pressure (which drops when you turn on a tap).
Is there a little black thing with two wires coming off it clipped to the water inlet pipe (right hand side)?  If so, it's essentially a reed switch that is operated by a magnet that moves inside the pipe when the water flows.  Could it have moved out of position?  If you have a multimeter and another magnet, you can unplug it and check it's working.  If it is, maybe the magnet could be sticking?
 

The best way I've found to set my gas geysers is to turn on the tap with least pressure and then use the water flow knob on the geyser and turn it down slowly until the geyser ignites, then leave it and use the flame knob to set the temp of the water.
Also check your filter in your kitchen tap if it has one. That could be why it used to work but doesn't anymore. The geyser might also have a little filter sieve that needs to be cleaned.

An acquaintance of mine had two showers and the one also had the same problem and I advised him to clean the shower head overnight in a container with some vinegar and that worked, what he also noticed is that the flow switch that they used in that specific model would not close completely because of sediment in the water and then the burner would stay on so I advised him to fit a filter before the geyser.
In the long run I would also install a 3 stage 20 inch Big Blue filter with a 5 micron pleated filter a granular activated carbon filter and a siliphos cartridge. The 5 micron filter, filter out sediment in the water the granular activated carbon filter, filter out chlorine and organic molecules from the water and the siliphos cartridge prevents limescale from forming in the water pipes.
If all else fails contact Totai, there are a couple of manuals on their website but the pages are in a weird order - by the look of it most probably scanned from printed manuals.
https://totai.co.za/contact/
[email protected]
https://totai.co.za/service/after-sales/
[email protected]

This is like suicide. Can never say anyone must do it. Rather get someone to do it the right way and check if the genny will in fact work so that you know you have a workable system. 
Sometimes one must not try to remove your own appendix

If you plug the genny into a socket supplied by the inverter, the smoke will come out. If you plug the genny in to the house such that the inverter sees it like the municipal supply, it may work. There are a few threads about this but in short frequency and overloading are your risks.

@fuzexYou must use a transfer switch between generator and db board plug to plug illegal and dangerous.
So for instance that any plug point is connected to the essential side of the inverter guess what you put your generator power onto the output of your inverter buy buy inverter noooo bad idea

Well, they are called suicide cables for a reason 😆

It's Home Assistant with an ESP32 connected to the Deye to do reading/writing of the sensors.

Ok. So today I checked the TV size with a tape measure, and consumption with a kill-a-watt. 
@Modinawas right (it's an annoying quality he has). 40inch 4k TV plus an explora pulls 70W.
The display on the inverter is showing VA. 
This is why her system is doing so well. 2x102ah batteries. Knock of 10% for losses, and she's still going to run for nearly 8 hours before SOC reaches 50%. The batteries aren't heavily loaded, and there's enough time to recharge between sheds. 
Sure they won't last forever, but they're holding up so far. 
I guess the moral of the story is that if you're going this route, overspec the batteries. 

So just add a smaller inverter and split some circuits off the DB, also great for some redundancy then.
You already have 14 panels, so leave the 10 string as original on your current inverter, and move the remaining 4 over to a 3kva or something specifically for the pool pump and maybe your remote gates/garage etc. Make it like an OUTSIDE DB and Inside DB.
This way not matter what happens your outside will always function. If Inside has an issue outside is not affected. If outside has an issue, just switch over the Outside DB back inside to the inside. So this would mean a switch over switch between the two DBs.
You actually have nice options now, and further "small" investment will give you so much to play with.
You can even split the 10 panels into 5s for each mppt for even more redundancy from a solar perspective, you will get the same wattage, maybe even more as the panels dont need to work that hard to push current through each other.
Damn man wish I had your real world problems, lol

It wont exceed 5000w AC (so the house can only take 5000w) in that scenario

If the voltage and current differs so much then one will only get the current of the 41V panels. A good point to show the major change in current. 

Check your panel voltages. I also got 455 Canadians last week and the new ones come at around 32V the older ones were 41V.
If you have mixed old and new in the same strings that could be your problem. 

Just adding a completely different angle here. No idea whether the CS panels have changed so much in terms of overall dimension from one year to the next (for same watt panels), since this would seem a bit crazy to me, were they sourced from a reputable vendor? A few on this forum have been reporting CS and other panels being fakes and/or mislabeled.  
for example:
 

@Scorp007 Those UPS systems tend to run very hot.  At my previous company we started cutting holes for cables and placing the battery next to the UPS on the outside, to increase the MTBF of the batteries.
SLA are not "sealed".  I have sometimes "repaired" SLA batteries by simply popping off the top plastic lid, removing the 6 rubber grommets and filling with distilled water.  Then replacing the grommets and giving them a good charge.  SLA's are not wet batteries but still hate heat and dry out.  I could use "repaired" batteries to operate gate motors without problems for many more months.

Heat and vibration are the two killers of lead acids.  Many BMWs and some other cars, had the battery in the trunk.  Less heat and less vibration.  They typically last 5+ years.  I think certain BMW 5s had the battery up front, and people where lucky if these survived 24 months - modern engines are covered in plastic covers and trap the heat.

@fuzex For any TV run from batteries, I would suggest the following:
1. Make sure it is a LED TV and not an old LCD - LEDs use about 1/3 of a LCD TV
2. Try to limit the screen size of the TV.  Large screens = lots of power drawn.

For R3000 you can buy a new 32" Samsung.  A bargain considering what batteries cost.   Your batteries will thank you.

For the small scale user only wanting a TV, WiFi & lights, if he is a bit DIY inclined, I would suggest getting a TV that runs from a 19VDC laptop-type power brick.  Many of the 32" Samsungs use this setup.  Then get a DC-DC boost converter for about R120 and run TV, lights and WiFi straight from 12V.  Advantages are: Safety (no high voltages that are unlikely to have earth leakage protection in these small systems), no noisy fans, no inverter expense (you still need a charger) and most important of all, no power losses due to the inverter.  These losses can be substantial.

I have a 24" Sinotec TV which I brought a few years ago specifically for load shedding.  It runs straight from 12V and consumes about 1Amp when set to a medium brightness. i.e. 12W.   A modern 32" LED TV should be about 20-24W.   An old 32" LCD will use over 70W by comparison.  Large screen LED TVs will likely also use 70W and more.

Similar logic can be applied to PC monitors.  Desktop PCs are not power optimised and are heavy on juice.  I personally have a dislike for laptops and prefer a desktop.  When replacing a desktop, consider one of these mini-PCs (the size of a paving brick, such as the Intel NUCs).  They run much more efficient and are available from a Celeron to i7.  So although small, they have a lot of CPU power.  And again, these are powered by external 19VDC laptop-like supplies.

Well you hit a nail on the head. If this is what your neighbour wants, and if that want is fulfilled, then the system is adequate. 

It won't save any money, but that may not be part of the requirement.

But all these systems that are built on lead/acid or gell batteries are really designed for occasional outages. Regular outages such as we currently have will punish those batteries and you may find they need a lot of replacement. There are two potential problems
1) The loads are enough to take the battery past 50% SOC during a load shed. Those batteries don't like being discharged a long way, and doing so regularly will shorten their life span.
2) When load shedding stages get high, the inverter is not able to recharge the battery fully before the next load shed. If I read the labels correctly, this system will have that problem. I note that there's no SOC indication on this system.

It costs more up front, but a lithium battery will do you better over the long haul - you can discharge them deeper, more often. And we're in it for the long haul. We no longer have a situation where there would be spells of load shedding and you wondered IF there would be load shedding today. Now the only wondering is what stage of load shedding we will have.

All that said, I can't think that you will do much better for R4200. That's really not a lot of money to spend on this type of system. 

PS: This is how I really started, with this sort of system (though a bit bigger). I also installed something similar for my mother, along with a one plate gas stove. You're right - having some lights and the telly during a load shed makes a difference.

Looking forwards, if your neighbour likes to warm the bed in winter, best invest in some hot water bottles.

In my mother's case we bought some of those emergency LED lamps that charge when there's grid power. This means that the inverter doesn't carry the lights, and also that she doesn't have to run leads around the place. So when she turns in, if there's load shedding she can still read in bed, which makes a difference to her comfort.

Thanks very much. Mine are 455w and since the cap is 6500w I'll probably just add 7 total per MPPT (345v) which could give me around a max of 6.3kw which is an extra 25% more power than I have now.