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'Pow Bank' is the one the supplier recommends, and it works perfectly for me.

So for the last 9 years or so I've had a simple 12v lighting system in the house with a 120ah battery running off a 12v 120watt panel in turn running 34 led lights. I've had zero failures of any of the equipment and the battery that I had lasted me a good 7 years. Success. The new install had to actually work around the small panel as I refused to move it or change anything attached to that system.
I decided to up it a bit, but knew that I was in over my head. So Alumo did the install yesterday. 
12 x 470w panels, 8KW Sunsynk and 2x 5.5KV greenrich batteries. I'd added Cbi wifi timers on my geysers and have 1 geyser on the system (smaller one) and one on the grid. 

I've been in a mad rush to finish painting the area where the panels were going to go as the roof hadn't seen any paint in the last 9 years. The final plan is to add more panels towards the back of the property as we have space for a good 10-12 more. 

The set up has been installed in our laundry and I couldn't wish for a better layout. It sits right next to my existing system and that system got a few smiles from the installer who said....meh, it works and it works well. 🙂

There is a cheaper alternative - check out the Electromechanica website for this 080110-0-4 100A MAIN TERMINAL GREY. You get them in different ratings and cable sizes.
https://www.em.co.za/080110-0-4
But order online through online electrical, prices are good.

Just one issue is that the law does state that the earth rod must be bonded to utility earth. There is fortunately only ONE Earth.  I have always used the utility earth with no issues. And if you live somewhere where there isn’t any utility earth then by all means use an earth rod. 

Given your requirements, I'd much rather go with either 3x10kwh or 2x15.97kwh batteries - Sunsynk or Freedom Won. They are of course massive items but it's so much better with regards to installation of cables and communications. Freedom won actually recommends going with the larger batteries instead of multiple smaller ones. Price wise it might also be cheaper I think. Just my 2-pence.
EDIT: The Pylons are just plain Lithium Ion whereas the sunsynk and freedom wons are LiFePo4 technology batteries. I choose the latter for safety reasons. YMMV.

From where I sit - it seems that once the doodoo hits the fan in public forums, suddenly support appears, especially when the founder makes a direct call. Interesting how things work in this messed up world.

Priorities, the squeaky wheel gets the oil. This is not a perfect world, but it's great to see how Powerforum serves its members, providing a platform to raise these kind of issues. Also that some suppliers value their name and brand to the extent that they address the issues swiftly.

Thank you very much. My logic was leaning the other way and was tending to be difficult to figure out. This is definitely something to consider carefully.

Battery is going on the floor, underneath the inverter. I had to make a choice on whether to install on the patio, where pedestrians may see it and decide to do some shopping, putting it in the garage which was inconveniently far from the board, or installing it inside, in the entrance hall which is still out of the way. Decided to go for indoors, and instead of hiding it..make it a feature 🙂
Doesn't take up much space, noise is negligible and it doesn't look bad at all. I figure solar installations are something to show off and be proud of nowadays. Steve does a neat job that doesn't look out of place and I've only had good comments about it. I could have hidden it with some mods, but I'm ok with it. The FW battery is classy looking and doesn't look industrial.

@TestTubewe have used a 50mm by 50mm. If you usee sprague things can get bulky in there. The FreedomWon has a very modern DC ABB breaker. It's the 1 battery that does not require any fuses for protection. The Breaker serves as both & this has been confirmed by them & most installers are taking good advantage of the quality FreedomWon is producing. 
That ABB breaker is on another level. 

It certainly looks legit. You could check the specs for the panel on the CS website to see if it matches what you have. Then you could check the Open Circuit voltage yourself in full sun to see if it matches up. Good luck.
 

Mmmhhh, I tend to agree with this. I've been agonizing over the MPPT voltage range as well. For the 8kw ( which I'm also planning to use ) the MPPT voltage range is 125-425V which I assume is a WORKING or OPERATING voltage, not the maximum. So for this setup the 10 panels deliver 421V at maximum power but the Current To Voltage curves show that the voltage rises as the current drops (e.g. when the battery is just about full and no other loads are being driven) and it doesn't take much for the operating voltage to go over the 425V value of the MPPT. I am not sure exactly what the consequences will be - in light of the datasheet and installation manual seemingly emphasizing the Max Open Circuit Voltage.

As for the maximum open circuit voltage - for 10 panels it is already at 499.5V at 25 degrees. So if the temperature drops even by 5 degrees to 20 degrees the max open circuit voltage will be exceeded (0.3% per degree) . I really think SUD7162 should revisit the installation - just to be on the safe side.

I'm basically about to install the same setup. Where's the battery hidden?

Mmmhhh, I tend to agree with this. I've been agonizing over the MPPT voltage range as well. For the 8kw ( which I'm also planning to use ) the MPPT voltage range is 125-425V which I assume is a WORKING or OPERATING voltage, not the maximum. So for this setup the 10 panels deliver 421V at maximum power but the Current To Voltage curves show that the voltage rises as the current drops (e.g. when the battery is just about full and no other loads are being driven) and it doesn't take much for the operating voltage to go over the 425V value of the MPPT. I am not sure exactly what the consequences will be - in light of the datasheet and installation manual seemingly emphasizing the Max Open Circuit Voltage.

As for the maximum open circuit voltage - for 10 panels it is already at 499.5V at 25 degrees. So if the temperature drops even by 5 degrees to 20 degrees the max open circuit voltage will be exceeded (0.3% per degree) . I really think SUD7162 should revisit the installation - just to be on the safe side.

No problem, the more the merrier!
 

To all those who have not yet earthed your panels, print this out, and cut it out along the line. Now you have your very own round tuit, keep it in a safe place.