Firstly thanks to Everyone on this forum, I have learnt a lot by browsing the different posts. I am doing a DIY so it will take long. I am less patient as I get older but I have learnt that a rush-job is not the best way. I will rather take time, learn and try my best to do it properly. The inverter and batteries are up, comms cables in, next is battery cables and then the AC side. Wiring with 16mmsq which makes it a bit harder. I need to see what I do on the DB - I need to split away underfloor heating and a couple of other things. I have a Solahart solar geyser on a timer so not that worried about the geyser. Waiting on the panels 16 x 545w CS'. I will build my own AC DB, already have SPD's etc in an enclosure close by. For the N-E bond I will just use a contactor. Does anyone know where I can buy black conduit fitting and dark grey flex conduit?

Looks great!

Jay

nice one! What would you need Cloudlink for?

I have used 70mmsq cable and 2x 240A DC fuses. I will wire the batteries the weekend. The 70mm lugs does not fit in the battery terminals so I will have to grind them down a little, pity as I like things to be standard.

1 hour ago, Chris_H said:

nice one! What would you need Cloudlink for?

Maybe this is my own ignorance. I was thinking / hoping that the Cloudlink would provide more or better information than the inverter / BMS itself but maybe I am wrong. I would like to hear if it is so. I have seen other installations with both.

I am still looking for dark grey or grey conduit and fittings. Does anyone have an idea where to find this?

12 minutes ago, Superfly said:

Isn't 70mm a bit overkill?, even 240A DC? Just asking... Trimming the strands will lower the current resistance of the cable...perhaps get a crimper that can mash them to the required fit? 

The Sunsynk 12kw 3ph has a max DC charge/discharge current of 240A hence he 240A and the 70mm. The "mash" idea sounds like a plan, I will see if I can make a plan. Just to avoid misunderstanding, I am not trimming the strands. The cable and lug goes together perfectly. The actual lug does not quite fit into the battery terminal.

 

Not sure if the Hubble use those snap on connectors, like SS batteries. I had to remove a few strands to fit 35mm cable into my connectors. You could also consider wiring each battery individually to a common bus bar using more suitable 35mm cable (for the connectors) and then 70mm from busbar to inverter (don’t know specs offhand if that’s sufficient). I ran my two batteries via 35mm cable and individual DC Disconnectors to a busbar and then 70mm cable to inverter (8KW unit). Mine was motivated by a more balanced paralleling etc. One could also consider using both (pair) + and - poles on each battery to run 2 thinner cables from each? But then busbar probably unavoidable. 

On 2023/05/02 at 8:07 PM, Weimaraner said:

Wiring with 16mmsq which makes it a bit harder. I need to see what I do on the DB -

I have tried to find a solution for connecting a parallel wire [that goes off to the inverter input and the change-over switch] to the grid live wire after the main mcb and so far have seen very little satisfactory answers.
The ideal solution would be to use a LIVE busbar, same as one would use a Neutral or Earth busbar - but then there's the issue of having to insulate/close off that busbar to prevent accidental contact.
The alternative is to force two conductors ( 16mm2 plus 10mm2 ) into the MCB outlet and similarly join them up another set on the change-over switch and the inverter MCB. I suspect this is what most electricians do.
The last "solution" would be to use a scruit nut to join 3 16mm2/10mm2 wires together.  Neither of the last two solutions seem very attractive ( to the inexperienced, untrained wannabee DIYer).

I'd like to know what all those people who have actual workings systems have done (or their installers have done) to resolve this simple issue.

On 2023/05/05 at 10:30 AM, TestTube said:

I have tried to find a solution for connecting a parallel wire [that goes off to the inverter input and the change-over switch] to the grid live wire after the main mcb and so far have seen very little satisfactory answers.
The ideal solution would be to use a LIVE busbar, same as one would use a Neutral or Earth busbar - but then there's the issue of having to insulate/close off that busbar to prevent accidental contact.
The alternative is to force two conductors ( 16mm2 plus 10mm2 ) into the MCB outlet and similarly join them up another set on the change-over switch and the inverter MCB. I suspect this is what most electricians do.
The last "solution" would be to use a scruit nut to join 3 16mm2/10mm2 wires together.  Neither of the last two solutions seem very attractive ( to the inexperienced, untrained wannabee DIYer).

I'd like to know what all those people who have actual workings systems have done (or their installers have done) to resolve this simple issue.

I have used the double 16mm2 bootlace ferules, they are hard to work with and not all MCB's fit the 100%. Only other way is to use an additional isolator or the like I think. Have a look at my pics.

Finally have it up and running. Pleasure to have power during loadshedding. I have a set of SPD's and a 4 pole isolator in a wall box on the outside, always have had it. I now have the E/N Segen bridge box extra (if anyone is interested) as I went the contactor route as I could use the contactor for a couple of other things. I have an issue with the a F18 error but it is intermittent. My batteries also sometimes get stuck on 92% / 94% while charging and I have to restart. All else is good. My panels got delivered and I will put them up over the coming weekends. Still have to put up the PV box and tidy up a bit. I have the  whole house on this 12kw and so far so good. I do have a solar geyser although so that works nicely. I am going to split my DB into eseential / non essential - non essential will only be my underfloor heating and a couple of other things. Again 16mm2 is hard to work with!

Anyone with similar issues on F18 and the battery charge %?

I would like to monitor my batteries individually but the inverter does not show that on BMS. I bought a RIOT CLOUDLINK originally, will that give me more information?

7 minutes ago, Weimaraner said:

I would like to monitor my batteries individually but the inverter does not show that on BMS. I bought a RIOT CLOUDLINK originally, will that give me more information?

As far as I know you can do this in Solar Assistant (and a lot more), I am not familiar with CloudLink, tried looking through the specs but couldn't find anything on it 

 

On 2023/06/06 at 12:29 PM, Weimaraner said:

I have used the double 16mm2 bootlace ferules, they are hard to work with and not all MCB's fit the 100%. Only other way is to use an additional isolator or the like I think. Have a look at my pics.

Thanks, I think I have found the logical but very expensive way to do it : 
https://www.mce.co.za/itemdetails/multi-pole-distribution-block-----din-rail-or-bolt-down-mount?category=termination%2Band%2Bwiring%2Baccessories&code=fj63&type=2&access=2&id=B05A21F7-A00E-486A-A326-2D89F7E331A7
This clips into the DIN rail, taking up space but it's the neatest solution for power distribution in the DB Box I've come across.

On 2023/06/06 at 6:41 PM, Weimaraner said:

I would like to monitor my batteries individually but the inverter does not show that on BMS. I bought a RIOT CLOUDLINK originally, will that give me more information?

Cloudlink should offer the individual packs if you run over the serial connection and have the battery dips toggled correctly (if it functions similar to the AM2) - same with SolarAssistant

Edited June 8, 20233 yr by PsyWulf

3 hours ago, TestTube said:

Thanks, I think I have found the logical but very expensive way to do it : 
https://www.mce.co.za/itemdetails/multi-pole-distribution-block-----din-rail-or-bolt-down-mount?category=termination%2Band%2Bwiring%2Baccessories&code=fj63&type=2&access=2&id=B05A21F7-A00E-486A-A326-2D89F7E331A7
This clips into the DIN rail, taking up space but it's the neatest solution for power distribution in the DB Box I've come across.

There is a cheaper alternative - check out the Electromechanica website for this 080110-0-4 100A MAIN TERMINAL GREY. You get them in different ratings and cable sizes.

https://www.em.co.za/080110-0-4

But order online through online electrical, prices are good.

Regarding your batteries, did you run the right-hand pair of batteries linked together, and then that pair and the left one both to the fuse (i.e. two cables to the bottom of the fuse disconnect?

On 2023/06/08 at 4:00 PM, Weimaraner said:

There is a cheaper alternative - check out the Electromechanica website for this 080110-0-4 100A MAIN TERMINAL GREY. You get them in different ratings and cable sizes.

https://www.em.co.za/080110-0-4

But order online through online electrical, prices are good.

Even better - https://www.em.co.za/M107G

@Weimaraner Any updates on your install?

On 2023/07/11 at 9:45 PM, Greg_SA said:

Regarding your batteries, did you run the right-hand pair of batteries linked together, and then that pair and the left one both to the fuse (i.e. two cables to the bottom of the fuse disconnect?

Sorry for only replying now. I linked the batteries together using same length 75mmsq cable and then ran a cable from the most left battery and a cable from the most right battery to the fuse disconnector. I still have not installed the Cloudlink so I cannot see the individual stats on the batteries but they run together well. Once I can see them individually I will be able to tell how they charge / discharge.  

On 2023/10/09 at 5:14 PM, McGuywer said:

@Weimaraner Any updates on your install?

System runs fine. I am busy at work so I still have to install the panels (16 * 545). I have installed the brackets and rails on the roof (what a pain) and I have run two strings of 6mmsq PV wire (another pain). Also still have to install the Cloudlink. So for now I have a glorified UPS but it works perfectly. I run the whole house and the 12kw + 15kwh of batteries is enough. We obviously are careful with what we run together and so far no issues, even the geyser is on. It will be another story with the panels up and I will run another set of 3ph 16mm cable to the DB for non-essential items. Will update and post once I am done. In hindsight I am thinking that 2 * 8kw would be a better option than 1 * 12kw but it was fun doing it and it works! Very happy with the inverter and the batteries.

Finally I now have 1 array of panels installed (11 x 545w). Put them on the PV1 MPPT. Will later do the other panels. So now the fun starts. Generation is there so now it is up to me to figure out how I manage it. Question - I do not always understand what the interface screens mean and I see I am not the only one. I have the three CT's installed correctly, so I do not want to export power to the grid. With the below configuration mu understanding is as follows

I am not exporting to the grid, Solar Export means that I can feed solar power to non-essentials, feed load first then batteries. Some set the Inverter Power Limiter to 0?

Question, as long as the Grid Trickle Feed is set to something does that mean that feed back to the grid will also not happen.

I would like to see how much my panels are generating but my generation displayed = my load, how do I see what the panels really generate without ticking Solar Export - this is why I want to understand whether ticking Solar Export allows power to the grid.

 Hope I make sense!

 

On 2023/11/08 at 11:56 AM, Weimaraner said:

Finally I now have 1 array of panels installed (11 x 545w). Put them on the PV1 MPPT. Will later do the other panels. So now the fun starts. Generation is there so now it is up to me to figure out how I manage it. Question - I do not always understand what the interface screens mean and I see I am not the only one. I have the three CT's installed correctly, so I do not want to export power to the grid. With the below configuration mu understanding is as follows

I am not exporting to the grid, Solar Export means that I can feed solar power to non-essentials, feed load first then batteries. Some set the Inverter Power Limiter to 0?

Question, as long as the Grid Trickle Feed is set to something does that mean that feed back to the grid will also not happen.

I would like to see how much my panels are generating but my generation displayed = my load, how do I see what the panels really generate without ticking Solar Export - this is why I want to understand whether ticking Solar Export allows power to the grid.

 Hope I make sense!

 

Can anyone lend some assistance with this?

Only way to see what the panels "could" produce is if they're actually producing it - either to charge batteries or if load is greater than PV production. 

If battery full and loaf 200w, system will only "pull" 200w from the panels. No way for you to know the actual available PV power without a load or battery charging (or export) actually using that power....