phil.g00

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000818685591.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.237b323d5mfrgH&algo_pvid=018891e4-9d07-48ba-889c-2ddbf055c343&algo_expid=018891e4-9d07-48ba-889c-2ddbf055c343-2&btsid=0ab6fa8115981046127546884eef12&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ This seems to be a new transfer switch product, maybe it will appeal to someone.

Just to have all the relevant info in one thread: From this study: https://www.solaracks.com/solar-mounting-structure-to-create-air-gap-required-below-solar-pv-modules/ "Conclusion The installation of Solar PV modules on sheet roof is most ideal to have an air gap of 100mm to 110mm. Lower air gap will lead to increased module temperature, which will result in lower generation output. Higher than this dimension will have negligible cooling impact, but will have adverse effect of increased moment loads of fixing."

Yes, DC clip on ammeter is an indispensable tool for solar. I parallel strings of different directions and slopes to try and maintain a long duty cycle over the day. I standardize configurations as combinations of two panels in series, with E an W strings combined . This is in-line with the 6mm copper and my 30A MC4 connector ratings I use. It struck me recently that there are so many panels up there now that once I have done my final matching, I could easily develop an open circuit of say two panels and it would go unnoticed probably for years. So I bought 16 of these that I plan to monitor each strings contribution, just give a visual indication if an individual string starts under performing once initially set up. They haven't arrived yet and so I cant vouch for them. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32967098638.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.693d4c4d4BxywE But they where 8 USD a piece, without shipping.

Just to add to this topic, I find flared lugs make life easier:

Its this bigger one I have, I like it and at that price you can't go wrong.

I wouldn't be without my hydraulic crimper now, I push plenty amps and hammer crimps don't cut it. You can adjust the die sizes with a dremel, I had to make one side of my 50mm from a 35mm. ( I thought it was lost).

And everyone want's to claim the full discounted rate, I can just imagine. It can still be done fairly and proportionately, that's easy, but having to justify it on a constant basis will be more than life's worth.

Might be a bit of family politics involved, but what I am suggesting is you install a kWh meter in each dwellings DB and agree a rate between yourselves and implement your own meter reading schedule.

Is separate metering not an option? Nowadays you can get kWh meters that take up the space of an MCB in a db for dirt cheap.

You are right you could probably easily add more panels. Can you post the nameplate specs of your inverter and the panels please.

One thing that's worth doing it checking the abilities of your grid meter in ZA. If it isn't one of these ones that trips the instant you feedback, I think a grid-tied Solis with grid limiter is a good first move. A grid-tied inverter will constantly save you money from day one, its simple, but won't work during load shedding. It can often be easily incorporated into a future expansion. I think if a generator can tide you over for load-shedding, then a generator plus a grid-tie inverter is gets you the best utility for the smallest capital outlay. Bells and whistles are nice, but cost a fortune in this game

@Louisvdw, I reckon another 100 ish and we'll just about be there.

I sound like I'm against perfectly tilted frames. I am not, but if you can't see them from space they don't count.

Please see this LiFePo charging curve: An equalize, is actually a higher than normal charging voltage used with Lead Acid batteries, that get this moving around on the plates and does a form of top balancing every once in a while. So in your case it would appear to your full battery as if it was getting charged every so often. However, I wouldn't recommend it. As you can see from the graph it takes very little charge to shoot the voltage up so: 1.) It may not fool the BMS 2.) It may result in your battery shutting down, to protect itself. 3). If you want battery longevity, stay away from the high and low voltage kneepoints on that graph. 4.) As you can see there is very little Ah capacity to be gained by working into the kneepoints. I'd rather do Ned Yu's suggestion or just use them a little bit. ( Some load on a timer or something). @Coulomb, is right about the US3000 being master as well, I have read that too. I don't know maybe I am mixing things up.But assuming the same rationale, it would seem that Pylontech would have the highest capacity battery as master. Which generally would be the new one, I don't think that would matter in your case though.

I don't even have Pylontechs, so I am very far from a guru. I have read that somewhere, couldn't tell you where right now. However once you've got this alarm sorted out, my general rule of thumb is, if it's working don't mess with it.

I have never measured it, sometimes people guess things and before long they are internet gospel. Taking a random Artsolar panel, NOCT is 45 deg C +/- 2 deg, and the temp coefficient is - 0.37%/ degree. 20 degree increase is only 7% ish at 65deg C. Bear in mind, commercially available parabolic solar cookers, something I am also interested in, can barely boil water. Add to that non-perfect slopes and aspects of solar panels, I think I'd like to do some real world testing. I can understand a temp increase, but I think the increase and its effect may over exaggerated.

In hindsight for future roofs, I'll probably make one of those unistrut profiles the double height version. I also want to say there were about a dozen sheared welds on thos frames I took down. You couldn't see them from ground levels, but it was on track fpr a catastrophic failure.

@plonkster, This is probably right up your street. My BMV drops out of comms with the Venus GX every 2 weeks or so, sometimes it recovers, sometimes not. It always recovers when I reboot through VRM. ( Which means I constantly have to keep an eye on things) It is a powered USB hub, but it is also an el-cheapo. I do have the option of Ve-direct straight into the Venus with this system. I also have procured an expensive powered industrial Startech USB hub and a Cerbo for another system. In that system I will be forced to use a USB hub for somethings due to the number of VE devices. I interested in your thoughts/comments about possible causes and how you would prioritize the existing VE ports over the USB hub.

@CassieYes and it warrants interrogation of the battery to find out why. A manual is a good place to start, but it probably still could be caused by half a dozen things. The new battery is supposed to be the master from what I've read, so you could approach the vendor/installer. If that's not an option: @Youda, I think is probably the most familiar on the forum with pulling more data out of the Pylontechs.

There is a backstory, but let's start here: I said their perfectly angled frames allowed them 22 panels on their roof, if they were fitted flush I'd get 60 odd in the same space, and it would look better. There existing frames didn't move because of gravity, they were actually free standing, self-welded monstrosities that took 4 men to lift. Drill holes they'll be leaks they said, wouldn't hear anything different. I was told I had to find a way of installing panels without putting any holes in their IBR roof. Well, I am going tell you how I did and how intend to do it again, because it works a treat. Double -sided sticky tape. Don't laugh, hear me out. On an IBR roof I sticky tape unitstruts every so often down the raised bit, down the slope of the roof. (Galvo clean the unistrut first). Don't ask me measurements, ( about a metre-ish) in reality it was every so many bumps, not scientific. Then I create a horizontal lattice of unitstruts bolted to the vertical unistruts. The horizontals are at the correct fixing for vertical panels. The horizontals are moveable, unistrut has these nut+spring things. This gives the panels two unistruts profile thicknesses over the IBR mounds and probably the equivalent of three over the IBR channels. ( so probably about 100mm gap average). Unistrut also makes a clamp that go in between panels, it is about a quarter of the price of the "solar" clamps. And its very quick to install, (make your frame earth loops on the ground and fit to one side of each panel.) I had 4 panels up for a year trialing this method. (north-facing). That was a success. A year later I put up another 40 odd (E and W facing) That was November 2018. All still Rocksolid, I'll be doing it again. Oh, and the sticky tape is called VHB4950 by 3M. ( 25mm x 30m rolls I think they were) - bloody expensive, over a grand a roll, I think closer to 2K. If you read up on it, it's tough stuff, the kind of stuff they use for the glass in skyscrapers and such.

@plonkster,If I am looking right it appears as if that entire PCB is removeable/disconnectable, This will lend itself to testing it and the rest of it discretely. Go on, test it, it'll take longer to reply to this post.

500V is generally enough, put it on that suspect circuit and tell us the reading. edit: test both garage door open and closed. and stalled in between if you can.

This type has served me well over the years, it gets in everywhere,. Some wires, especially CT secondaries, you can't afford to be tugging on to get in there. Kyoritsu used to make it, now it seems Robin does.

@plonkster, I am not doubting your word at all, that you have an earth leakage is clear. I am doubting your explanation of a healthy MOV, get a megger and you'll find the problem. Not all faults can be found with an AVO. It may well be an MOV, but it's blown if it is.

@Stanley, I know all that, and more, yet still I doubt.