Richard Mackay

Sure! But what most systems try to do is to use as much PV power as possible and not use the grid/batteries if possible. This maximises the use of PV power.

"Bear in mind that if you install many panels and plan to use the power as required (e.g. to heat your geyser) you will have the challenge of managing this, especially if you want this to be automated" There is only a certain amount of power that is available from a RE system. (As opposed to the grid!)This is determined by if the sun is shining or how much power is already being utilized on powering loads. So to determine if there is enough available power to power a large load like a geyser you need to determine if this power available before the load is switched on. This isn't easy..

Bear in mind that if you install many panels and plan to use the power as required (e.g. to heat your geyser) you will have the challenge of managing this, especially if you want this to be automated. As far as solar PV for your geyser have a look at the Geyserwise Dual. It is a dedicated system (3 or 4 panels) but they have a clever system of using DC direct from the panels to heat the PTC element via a MPPT. This has to be more efficient than powering a 220V geyser element from an inverter.

More news on this topic: https://www.biznews.com/good-hope-project/2020/11/12/renewable-energy-chris-yelland

Capacitors that dry out are electrolytic capacitors. These are used on DC circuits. The series capacitor you are referring to won't be one of these since it needs to cope with AC.

Keep us posted..

How are you controlling the excess power fed to the geyser? Is this automated?

Agreed! It's a great feeling to have all circuits fed from an EL. You know then all is well!

Do not feed the geyser, under floor heating, borehole pump, stove or any heavy current device from an EL. These are safeoty devices that are designed to protect people so they are intended for plug points. Industry doesn't use these since they are disruptive, tripping and causing unnecessary stoppages...

Lighting circuits do not require EL protection but plug points do. Another thing to bear in mind is that a neutral to ground fault can trip these devices as can live to ground. The switches on plug points only switch the live (not the neutral). So if you suspect something that's plugged into a plug point unplug the device!

Trial and error is the way to check these devices.. (You can't measure the leakage currents that trip these devices!)

Make sure that both the live and the neutral are fed through the earth leakage. On the downstream side the live and neutral wires are only supplying the loads designated. These cannot be connected to any other live or neutral circuits!

Why did you buy a 12V system? Is it possible to exchange it for a 24V inverter? What voltage does the yacht use for it's electrics?

I would like to see the unbiased pros and cons of lead acid vs Li-Ion. I accept that Li-Ion will take over but are we past that point already? I don't accept that lead acid batteries only last a 'couple of years'

The price of old batteries is based on their scrap value. So you do a calculation and work from there. Fortunately lead acid batteries have a great scrap value as opposed to Li-Ion which cannot be recycled here in SA..

Congratulations! You might be eligible for a prize as the one and only.. I asked this question on this and the 4x4 forum. Nobody put up their hand!

Am I understanding you correctly that you have opted to feed back into the grid legally?

To check a diode one usually uses a multimeter. The resistance selection can be used and one should get a difference when the test leads are reversed. Often mutimeters have a semiconductor resistance selection option (indicated by a diode symbol). This will provide a higher voltage on the test leads to make the diode (or transistor) junction conduct better. A diode normally will fail short circuit or open circuit.

How old are the batteries? And do you know what their capacity is presently?

Hi simpy, Good luck with your venture. You need to be more specific of which country you're from. Location does make a big difference since applications tend to be specific to the place you are located at.

I hope this isn't too boring a subject for youall! I queried the term 'netmeter'. (My understanding of this is being charged the same for electricity that you consume as well as credited for feeding back into the grid) I obviously got this wrong! Here's the response: Netmetering - most simplistic explanation I've heard: What you push back into the grid, you must use again in the evenings i.e. grid becomes your battery. The costs to be able to do that i.e. the daily charge + bidirectional meter, makes it very unattractive option for us. Normally this is over a pre-agreed period, say 1 year, where CoCT will not owe you any money, as that would be seen as them buying electricity from you. Ideally you should owe them some money, even if it is R10.00

No one rushed to answer this one (and me being suspicious) I posted this on another local forum and the Terrible Tripplett responed: Does this mean that even if you are a registered SSEG CoCT cannot buy your excess power due to the national contact they have with Eskom ?? Correct. Until the Constitution is changed, or it is gazetted, no-one but Eksom is allowed to sell power to anyone. If you are grid-tied, and do go the feedback route, you have to netmeter over 1 year, you owe them some, they owe you nothing. That is about to change ... how, we will have to see. My suggestions, and I've emailed them: 1) Bidirectional meter should be free, not costing me R12k+, offset that cost by paying me a lower rated per kw. 2) If I buy the birectional meter, pay me, ex VAT, Eskom rate per kw. 3) Daily connection fee of wot, +-R14 ex vat per day, nada, no, forget it. Keep the R150 ex VAT connection fee to help offset the ongoing grid maintenance costs. Can only hope that: 1) They do consider the above for there are a lot of homes with spare, who can assist at no cost nor risk, to CoCT. 2) We, the small guys, can make a cent or two ... Thing is though, on a 63amp breaker, you are limited to 3.5kw. But if you can power your house, send the spare back to them, and make R10 per day ... that could be cool.

It seems these questions aren't easy to answer.. Is there ANYBODY out there (in SA) that has successfully registered as a SSEG and is prepared to share info about it?

Thanks! And please clarify what the deal is with feed in (briefly): There 's the once off bill of R12k for the meter. Then there's a monthly bill for the pleasure.. But what about the FIT (and what do they charge for them to supply electricity)??

Is this option is the one where you pay a monthly fixed amount and it allows your system to feed back into the grid (for which you get a credit)?