TBohnen

Ah awesome, that's probably it! Yes, I am sending it over USB. I haven't dug into how the underlying code sends it so will have a look and see if I can change it. Thanks so much, will feedback if I manage to make it work.

Hi All Hope someone can help. I've been trying to figure this out and can't seem to. I use the inverter-cli from https://github.com/ned-kelly/docker-voltronic-homeassistant to query my inverter. On the standard QPIGS it doesn't return my pv2 input info and I've seen a lot of comments that QPIGS2 should return the second string, but when I query that, I receive a NAK. I've tried to look at my firmware but it seems to be the latest. Any help would be appreciated, all I'm trying to do is accurately report my solar input and, my 2 strings are different (angle and slightly different panels) so I can't just x2 as far as I know. ./inverter_poller -d -r QPIGS2 Thu Feb 9 13:41:17 2023 INVERTER: Debug set Thu Feb 9 13:41:17 2023 DEBUG: Current CRC: 68 2D Thu Feb 9 13:41:17 2023 DEBUG: Send buffer hex bytes: ( 51 50 49 47 53 32 68 2d 0d ) Thu Feb 9 13:41:17 2023 DEBUG: 8 bytes written, 8 bytes sent, 1 bytes remaining Thu Feb 9 13:41:17 2023 DEBUG: Write command failed, error number 22 was returned Thu Feb 9 13:41:17 2023 DEBUG: 2 bytes written, 9 bytes sent, 0 bytes remaining Thu Feb 9 13:41:17 2023 DEBUG: 8 bytes read, 8 total bytes: 28 4e 41 4b 73 73 0d 00 Thu Feb 9 13:41:17 2023 DEBUG: Found reply <cr> at byte: 7 Thu Feb 9 13:41:17 2023 DEBUG: QPIGS2: 8 bytes read: (NAK Thu Feb 9 13:41:17 2023 DEBUG: QPIGS2 query finished Firmware version: QVFW: VERFW:00090.28 QVFW3: VERFW:00012.13 Theo

Just trying my luck. I've got the same problem, you don't have an updated answer for me?

I downloaded the zip / tar files and used the flashing tool in the respective folders. For the one that did not work, it was the AxperKINGReflash.exe which did not have the update dsp button but just the update button as far as I can recall.

@Coulomb apologies @Coulomb, correction: I received U03 when using USB [USB OTG] and, "Can not open serial port step 1" when flashing from usb windows. " To re-iterate: 1. When I say main cpu, my assumption is dsp.hex is the main cpu with the versions 71.*. I could not use windows or via the usb otg. When I tried via windows and AxperKINGReflash.exe, it will start, but then after a couple of seconds it would give the error "Can not open serial port step 1" mentioned (I could actually see the inverter display trying). I could however flash the remote panel, (mcu.hex?), via windows and Remote Panel_ReflashTool.exe (I probably typed the above message in haste and didn't mention that I did not even try to do it via USB otg).

Hey all, thought I'd give my experience for someone else finding this. I went to my inverter and found error code 32 on the display, after never flashing the firmware or anything, it just happened. I then tried to flash and it seems like I could flash the screen from my pc, not usb (all versions worked), but whenever I tried to flash the cpu 71.*(I tried all versions I could get my hand on, even the latest from supplier), it just did not want to work. I received U03 when using USB OTG cable and, "Can not open serial port step 1" when flashing from usb windows. I took it in, currently in assessment but, they could not flash it either so my control board must have packed up. I've got the Kodak King.

@aquaratStumbled upon this after doing the same (buying inverter thinking it was voltronic). Hours and hours of trying to get the voltronic stuff to work. Really hope your solution is going to work, thanks for the effort you put in to make it available!

@Lewisdid you ever come right with this? I've got the same problem and can't seem to get anything to work.

Ok great, thanks @Coulomb

Hi All, just want to confirm before I do something stupid. I have a Kodak King that I bought earlier this year. Would it work with this firmware and is there anything I need to worry about? I've got a problem where with the PYL setting, it only charges at 10 amps so I assume I will need to switch over to setting it manually. I don't want to lose the battery capacity from the inverter that doesn't seem to work if it's not set to PYL but I'll just need to create a cable to connect to the pylontech manually and send that through to home assistant I guess. Thanks for the help, don't want to brick my inverter.

Ah cool, thanks. Any chance you can provide me with a dump?

@Coulomb just wondering, did you ever find an answer to this?

Awesome, thanks everyone. You've confirmed my suspicions. That table is very handle @PaBz0r, thanks! I'll get a stove top kettle for now and then just save up for more batteries. So it seems that anything above the recommended 37 amps current is going to go red and is not good. I'll also just make sure that we don't pull anything strong at night when there isn't any solar, it seems fine (light doesn't go red) when there is enough power coming in. I don't know the internals of the pylontech / axperts + bms well enough but I'm hoping that if the green light stays on we're all good.

That's what confuses me, everything was in acceptable range. And with d, it says battery protection will kick in which does not happen, the thing just merrily chugs on with the blinking red light. Theo

Hi all I tried to look in the docs and on the forum but no luck. When I'm running my kettle and there isn't a big supply of solar, I get a slowly blinking red light on my pylontech. Rough calc says it's about 59 Amps (2800/48) and watchpower confirms this. In the data sheet it says recommended discharge current is 37 Amps so I'm obviously over that but the max (excluding spike) is 74 Amps which I'm under in this scenario. So my question is does anyone else experience this and, is it anything to worry about? It's not like I run my kettle often and I understand that this will most likely cause a bigger dip in the batteries than drawing a lower current over a longer period.