Jump to content

Tinuva

Members
  • Posts

    139
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by Tinuva

  1. Tinuva

    Goodwe LAN Module

    Yes but the person replying just provided me documentation on how to locate the "wifi reset" button which I already had to use and explained I did. I realised the person didn't quite get what I was on about.
  2. Yeah I have never seen my batteries charge faster than around 89amps, even though the limit shows 100A charge and 125A discharge.
  3. Tinuva

    Goodwe LAN Module

    I have to say, I am incredibly frustrated the past couple of days with the wifi module. Over the weekend, the inverter just stop responding to home assistant, but also stopped updating sems portal. On top of that, can't connect to the Solar wifi AP of the wifi module, because it keeps on resetting, so not even able to get into pv master. Its like having an inverter and just flying blind having no clue what is going on. Eventually was able to get it online by completely powering down the inverter having everything reset and it was back up...for a day!! Then down again from last night. Did contact Goodwe on the weekend and they responded. Provided me with latest firmware for the wifi module (which I think I was already on) and they also remotely upgraded my ARM firmware to 17. So eventually I found some segan solar doc, which shows there is a wifi reset/reload button. This coupled with a few more complete shutdowns of the inverter, managed to reset my wifi module settings, where it doesn't connect to wifi at all and this allowed me to get back in. Only to get everything set up and to fail miserably again. Eventually I figured out, it happens when I change the password of the Solar wifi AP, because who wants to leave it on the default password right? and allow anyone in range to connect. &*#R&*(@#&)*(@*&(@ So NOT changing that password, resetting again, and now it seems I am back online. So much for security.
  4. I dont know if it is true for all goodwe inverters, but after setting the settings on my 5048 ES, you have to "apply" them. This gives a warning that it will reboot the inverter. You accept, the inverter reboot with the new applied settings and then you know it will be there even after another random reboot.
  5. When its set to none, it doesn't disconnect the grid when there are issues with frequency and/or voltage. What is the point of having it set to South Africa when using none on wave detection? As in what safety features still work in that combination?
  6. So interesting question. In PV Master in the advanced settings, is the inverter set to do full-wave detection or half wave or none? Because if that is not set to full-wave, then it doesn't matter if the inverter is set to South Africa or not. I have heard of other goodwe installations in SA where full wave detection was not set. On my own inverter, it is set to full wave detection, and every freaking time there is something funny on the grid, it kicks into off-grid mode. What is annoying about this is, then 30 second later the inverter goes into check mode, which kills all the solar generation for 60 seconds, and then its like the MPPT restarts and the solar generation have to rebuild up slowly to full generation. Now imagine this happening every 5-10 minutes. Highly annoying. However I will take this over spikes going through to the backup side and killing fridges.
  7. Where you located? Sounds like someone need to help you in person on site. You need to read the diagnostic messages in pv master, to understand if the inverter is complaining about something. If the BMS read status good, there are charge limit showing provided by the BMS, battery is turned on, and there is excess PV, the inverter should start charging the battery slowly before ramping up. However, first thing to read, is the diagnostic messages, without that, you will be cluess as to why the inverter is not charging. Try and provide as much screenshots from pv master as possible, maybe we can figure it out.
  8. I am running fibre for the network, because the distance is long enough that copper wouldn't work anyway or just give too much issues. I have no intention of mixing things, which is why I run more than one conduit underground. I really want quality network connectivity
  9. Thanks everyone. It looks like I should go with 10mm2 cable. As for the EL switch, I will do a CoC from a reputable company and find out what gets signed off.
  10. Unsure about this. The earth leakage trip when it should almost always. It is only when it rains, I have to bypass the outbuilding, which tells me, there is a problem there, however most of the time, there is almost nothing turned on there, only the garage motor. I've looked it over and over, and it has to be this wire underground that is the issue, only place I can see any water getting to something it should not.
  11. Hi, I need some guidance. The wire for our house's outbuilding, a separate standing garage, was run under ground without conduit. I don't know how many owners ago this was, but this cable was damaged in the past and when it rain enough (happens every winter in CPT), then that causes the earth leakage to trip. Then I have to turn off the outbuilding breaker and can get the whole house back online. So my plan is to re-run a new cable. This time I won't run it through the garden (underground run of at least 90m) along the property line etc (silly IMHO), but instead run it through the roof like all the other wiring, and then use the shortest route underground between the 2 buildings which will only be 3m underground and inside conduit. I will run the wire myself then get an electrician to connect over to the new wire in both DBs in each building. The reason for this, I will be running some other networking cables too myself so may as well get the cable there ready. I also already have new empty conduits between the 2 buildings. The breaker in main house for outbuilding is 20A. The DB in outbuilding has a main-switch of 20A, a plugs breaker of 20A and a lights breaker of 10A. Very simplistic. What I need to know, what is the correct wire size I need to buy for this, so that it is legal. Should I go with 2.5mm or 4mm? Many thanks in advance!
  12. Yeah I'd recommend a wave analyser to see what the sine wave looks like in real time. On the other hand, I think maybe its unfair to compare my equipment to the OP, because before getting solar, we changed most of our appliances to be inverter based. Eg. the fridge is an inverter based fridge. You know, similar to inverter aircons. So the fridge converts the AC to DC first and the motor run at variable speed instead of full speed as with the older non-inverter based fridges. This means, the power is cleaned before it gets to the motor. The only non-inverter appliance we have left, is the maybe the microwave and definitely the pool pump. I am unsure about the bar fridge...but it doesn't run full power on/off so I suspect it might be ok.
  13. Also, that option is only super important if the BMS connection doesn't work. If BMS comms work, you can select any pylontech battery in the app and let bms comms take over the settings.
  14. What firmware version is your inverter on? I think you need newer firmware first, then latest pv master app, before the pv master app will show newer batteries.
  15. Don't have this problem, but I can tell you this. The goodwe, while ongrid, sync with the grid supply and if there is in fact spikes, those spikes are sent through to the backup side as the inverter mostly react slow to the spikes before throwing the load on to the batteries. I would blame your grid supply first. Find out if others in your street have the same issues.
  16. The built-in integration can change between all modes except eco-mode. For that you need the custom integration and can install it using HACS. As for CSV output...well not sure to be honest. I'd say easiest is then to let home assistant write the metrics to influxdb and use Grafana to show you the per day data in whichever way you prefer. Just more work.
  17. I wonder if the problem is only, a generator without AVR, or even with a generator with AVR. Then, is it also a problem with inverter-generators? Problem with these, usually much more expensive to get one that can allow the big load the goodwe will put on it when charging batteries. So I suspect the issue is more complex than just, dont work with generators, but rather goodwe saying, we will not support you with a generator because most people buy the wrong generator. I suspect, this is, because the goodwe is very sensitive that the grid side stay 100% within specific voltage ranges and frequency ranges, which most generators don't do.
  18. What is the working mode set for your inverter in the PV Master app? General mode will never charge batteries from grid. Backup mode will charge batteries from grid, but will only use batteries when the grid is offline. Offgrid mode, the inverter disconnects from the grid and will not use it at all Eco mode, depends on how you have the schedules configured.
  19. Where is your home assistant running? A pi or a windows virtual machine etc? Is this the 5048ES? What version firmware do you have your on inverter? How did you figure out your inverter ip address to be 10.10.100.153? Asking a few questions just to figure out what the probable cause can be. My inverter recently went from 2121 to 2424 firmware, this caused a bit of an issue with the addon, but there is a fix. Another problem others, if you running HA on windows virtual machine, there are specific updates that broke the communication and needs to be uninstalled. So could also be a probable cause.
  20. No problem switching between modes, I even have some of the mode changing automated from Home Assistant using https://github.com/mletenay/home-assistant-goodwe-inverter Some important points to be aware off Don't switch to "offgrid" mode. If you do, the inverter will drop all power on backup side when you reboot You need a reboot for a new selected mode to take affect If grid is active, you can reboot and backup load won't lose power, except if you were in offgrid mode prior to the restart Depending on what you want to do, its sometimes better changing the on-grid DoD value to manage the battery for loadshedding. This is what I do the most as it doesnt need a reboot a reboot causes solar generation to drop to 0 AND it needs to relearn the panels as if it was the first time connecting the panels, so generation starts slow and takes time to ramp up fully I only change between backup and general, only after the sun is down and if grid is active. Eco mode can also be used to change between charging and discharging.
  21. That is SUPER old. I recently got 2424G or in other words 1242416/0 according to GoodWe themselves and SEMS portal. Just create a ticket with goodwe, they updated mine remotely. @ https://support.goodwe.com/portal/en/newticket
  22. Hopefully that will change in the future. Apologies it is a screenshot, I can't find the direct reply link. Edit: found it.
  23. So far, what I do know is: UP5000 - 5 year non-extendable warranty US5000 - 5 year extendable warranty (looks similar to how US3000B/C gets extended from 7 to 10) I wonder what the reason for that is.
  24. Its listed here: https://segensolar.co.za/product/pylontech/storage-systems-pylontech/li-ion-battery-pack-storage-systems-pylontech/pylon-us5000-4-8kwh-li-ion-solar-battery-48v-excl-brackets/
  25. This looks like your MPPT is maxing out on Amps or watt. Here is how panels with MPPT work in very simple explanation. The voltage should never go over what the MPPT can handle. This will basically blow the MPPT components if you don't have protection against that, but then the protection will blow. Watt and Amps can go over, but if it does, the MPPT will discard the extra watt and Amps it can't handle. That 4kW solid line at times...thats your MPPT using the MAX it can from the panels. Basically your panels are overspecced for the MPPT. Others have asked what inverter/mppt you running, I don't think I saw the answer, but that will probably answer this thread for you. Looking at the panels you have, the GoodWe ES5048D will easily make use of your panels, in fact I have more panels than you on mine. I also have a single string with different brands and my 2nd string is purely canadian. The 2 strings actually perform nearly the same, but I do have some loss on the mixed string, around 200-400w I think at peak.
×
×
  • Create New...