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gbyleveldt

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gbyleveldt last won the day on November 20 2020

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  1. As others have mentioned, the starting point would be to have a look at the SEMS data. It'll give you an idea what the total load on the inverter is. There are physical limits to what the inverter can supply and going in blindly, without thorough understanding of your loads, is a recipe for disaster. Without data, it's like looking for a needle in a haystack. Based on some comments above, it seems you only have the inverter tripping when the grid falls away and under load? That does sound like you battery is tripping, not the inverter. Again, as others have mentioned, one US3000 isn't really optimal for the inverter. You are technically limited to 1.7kWh worth of backup capability by the Pylontech battery, which is a 1/3rd of what the inverter is capable of. If your loads never exceed that, then all is good. But based on what you mention above your loads can easily surpass that as 1.7kWh is not a lot for a typical household. The fact that your inverter is now running in Backup mode and not tripping, further confirms that your battery pack is under provisioned for your loads. The first thing to do is to have a look at the daily SEMS data to get an idea what's going on (please confirm that you have access to SEMS?). Once there's a day or two's worth of graphs then we can look at you switching off the grid and seeing what's drawing power. Unfortunately it's a little difficult when we don't know what is wired to the backup side of the inverter. I have a strong feeling in my gut we are going to circle back to insufficient battery peak delivery.
  2. In a serious lapse of judgement I've called you obtuse, for which I apologize. It was childish and uncalled for.
  3. So you insist on propagating information that's documented to be dangerous and unsafe? I can only hope that others who come across this thread is more interested being safe than being obtuse.
  4. And again my point, just because it works doesn't make it safe. I even made an analogy for you. Seriously, do some searching on Sonoff's catching fire when connected to geysers, don't simply take my word for it. In any case, it's your house you can do what you want; I have a problem with people advocating it's use on forums when there's enough evidence showing it's a shitty, dangerous idea. Especially if it's been discussed on this very forum: And another one:
  5. Yeah, I meant Sonoff directly. The next paragraph I said to use a contactor/relay. I probably wasn’t clear enough.
  6. Goodwe inverters are good, the local support is the problem. Or, rather, non existent. For that reason alone I suggest you look at Sunsync (which is what I should’ve done)
  7. I seriously wish people would STOP suggesting Sonoff (any of them) for switching geysers. It’s a shit idea, and enough examples of these melting all over the internet. The relay might handle 15A, but the terminals on the PCB are not rated for that, nor are the tracks on the pcb. If you want a smart switch, either use a higher current relay/contactor or use a CBI Astute. And for the people saying “works fine for me for months”, I say you can also do away with an Earth Leakage. It doesn’t mean it’s a good idea
  8. Ah, now I know which Paul in Northcliff this is That reminds me I need to renew a certain something!
  9. Hmmm, not sure if I did? I read a lot of threads here about it. Would you mind pointing me to it? I’m aware of the unmarked earth on the backup side, with the internal bonding relay. I’m making use of that unmarked earth in my system for bonding when grid goes down
  10. I'm genuinely sorry to hear that bud. More than you can ever know!
  11. Yeah, thanks for the offer @Saint. Honestly, I really like the actual inverter. It does what it says on the box. But my issue was related to the latest firmware (I know many others that use Goodwe without issue, hence getting myself one). But like you said, Segen and the local Goodwe rep can go suck a turd. I wouldn't piss on them if they on fire. It's a pity that the local guys pretty much kill the brand for me. I did manage to get hold of international enthusiasts of Goodwe by way of developing the UDP protocol driver for Home Assistant and they were much more help getting the inverter stable, which it is now. But I ended up having to 'disable' so much of the wave detection stuff in order for it to work properly. Incidentally, another user in CT ran into the exact issues I did, running the 1818 firmware; I even got Segen to admit that the issue wasn't my installation but in fact an issue with the inverter firmware. Still, there's absolutely no urgency in getting the issue resolved. For that reason I would always dissuade people from going Goodwe. Having solid hardware means buggerall if there's no backup.
  12. Hear hear. Although my crusade against Goodwe is getting pretty old now. In any case, the Pylon's BMS will cut off at around 11% SoC (89% DoD). In fact, you can't change the DoD value above 89% in the Goodwe PV Master app. Most nights I've run my max DoD to 60% (SoC of 40%). In a few cases I've had the SoC sit at 38% in the morning. It's as if it sometimes does tap a little from the battery past the set DoD point. Running the DoD close to 89% during the night will likely result in the odd case where the Pylon BMS will cut the inverter off.
  13. If wired as per the installation instructions then yes, it’s normal behavior. To be honest, if the grid is down the meter adds zero value to the stats anyway. I would imagine that SEMS and PVMaster should still show battery consumption with the ezmeter disconnected, although I never tested this myself. I seldom open SEMS or PVMaster these days.
  14. Wow panel prices came down. Those 455w panels look like incredible value
  15. I should edit what I said above. I believe it is possible for the above battery to be integrated to an inverter. Not sure if it’ll work with Goodwe though
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