gbyleveldt

As others have mentioned, the starting point would be to have a look at the SEMS data. It'll give you an idea what the total load on the inverter is. There are physical limits to what the inverter can supply and going in blindly, without thorough understanding of your loads, is a recipe for disaster. Without data, it's like looking for a needle in a haystack. Based on some comments above, it seems you only have the inverter tripping when the grid falls away and under load? That does sound like you battery is tripping, not the inverter. Again, as others have mentioned, one US3000 isn't really optimal for the inverter. You are technically limited to 1.7kWh worth of backup capability by the Pylontech battery, which is a 1/3rd of what the inverter is capable of. If your loads never exceed that, then all is good. But based on what you mention above your loads can easily surpass that as 1.7kWh is not a lot for a typical household. The fact that your inverter is now running in Backup mode and not tripping, further confirms that your battery pack is under provisioned for your loads. The first thing to do is to have a look at the daily SEMS data to get an idea what's going on (please confirm that you have access to SEMS?). Once there's a day or two's worth of graphs then we can look at you switching off the grid and seeing what's drawing power. Unfortunately it's a little difficult when we don't know what is wired to the backup side of the inverter. I have a strong feeling in my gut we are going to circle back to insufficient battery peak delivery.

In a serious lapse of judgement I've called you obtuse, for which I apologize. It was childish and uncalled for.

So you insist on propagating information that's documented to be dangerous and unsafe? I can only hope that others who come across this thread is more interested being safe than being obtuse.

And again my point, just because it works doesn't make it safe. I even made an analogy for you. Seriously, do some searching on Sonoff's catching fire when connected to geysers, don't simply take my word for it. In any case, it's your house you can do what you want; I have a problem with people advocating it's use on forums when there's enough evidence showing it's a shitty, dangerous idea. Especially if it's been discussed on this very forum: And another one:

Yeah, I meant Sonoff directly. The next paragraph I said to use a contactor/relay. I probably wasn’t clear enough.

Goodwe inverters are good, the local support is the problem. Or, rather, non existent. For that reason alone I suggest you look at Sunsync (which is what I should’ve done)

I seriously wish people would STOP suggesting Sonoff (any of them) for switching geysers. It’s a shit idea, and enough examples of these melting all over the internet. The relay might handle 15A, but the terminals on the PCB are not rated for that, nor are the tracks on the pcb. If you want a smart switch, either use a higher current relay/contactor or use a CBI Astute. And for the people saying “works fine for me for months”, I say you can also do away with an Earth Leakage. It doesn’t mean it’s a good idea

Ah, now I know which Paul in Northcliff this is That reminds me I need to renew a certain something!

Hmmm, not sure if I did? I read a lot of threads here about it. Would you mind pointing me to it? I’m aware of the unmarked earth on the backup side, with the internal bonding relay. I’m making use of that unmarked earth in my system for bonding when grid goes down

I'm genuinely sorry to hear that bud. More than you can ever know!

Yeah, thanks for the offer @Saint. Honestly, I really like the actual inverter. It does what it says on the box. But my issue was related to the latest firmware (I know many others that use Goodwe without issue, hence getting myself one). But like you said, Segen and the local Goodwe rep can go suck a turd. I wouldn't piss on them if they on fire. It's a pity that the local guys pretty much kill the brand for me. I did manage to get hold of international enthusiasts of Goodwe by way of developing the UDP protocol driver for Home Assistant and they were much more help getting the inverter stable, which it is now. But I ended up having to 'disable' so much of the wave detection stuff in order for it to work properly. Incidentally, another user in CT ran into the exact issues I did, running the 1818 firmware; I even got Segen to admit that the issue wasn't my installation but in fact an issue with the inverter firmware. Still, there's absolutely no urgency in getting the issue resolved. For that reason I would always dissuade people from going Goodwe. Having solid hardware means buggerall if there's no backup.

Hear hear. Although my crusade against Goodwe is getting pretty old now. In any case, the Pylon's BMS will cut off at around 11% SoC (89% DoD). In fact, you can't change the DoD value above 89% in the Goodwe PV Master app. Most nights I've run my max DoD to 60% (SoC of 40%). In a few cases I've had the SoC sit at 38% in the morning. It's as if it sometimes does tap a little from the battery past the set DoD point. Running the DoD close to 89% during the night will likely result in the odd case where the Pylon BMS will cut the inverter off.

If wired as per the installation instructions then yes, it’s normal behavior. To be honest, if the grid is down the meter adds zero value to the stats anyway. I would imagine that SEMS and PVMaster should still show battery consumption with the ezmeter disconnected, although I never tested this myself. I seldom open SEMS or PVMaster these days.

Wow panel prices came down. Those 455w panels look like incredible value

I should edit what I said above. I believe it is possible for the above battery to be integrated to an inverter. Not sure if it’ll work with Goodwe though

Any chance of changing your mind on the Goodwe inverter? Yes, I know I’m sounding like a broken telephone. If you insist on the Goodwe, it wants that BMS integration to work properly. Non integrated systems aren’t recommended by them. And, ideally, you want that if you want an install and forget solution. That goes for pretty much any inverter. Even the guys doing their own battery packs are engineering interfaces to get intelligent interaction between the inverter and battery, as opposed to a basic BMS style setup. ‘Again, it all depends on how dirty you want to get your hands with making inverter and battery play nice with each other.

Solcast is what you want if you want to ‘predict’ potential PV for the day. You seed their algorithm every 5 minutes with your PV production over that period and based on that, plus your location and panel angle/direction, it starts generating forecast after a week or two. Another user put me onto it and it seems reasonably accurate so far. I’m using Home Assistant though, not sure if this is available for OpenHab

Ah ok. The Astute doesn’t use a clamp, it has a shunt internally to measure current. It then take current and voltage to calculate power and factor with a neat little chip. My problem with an App based system is that it talks to a service in the cloud (like Tuya) and, should internet go down, so does all your automations. Us “die hards” flash these (and many other) devices with Tasmota, giving you a nice, common platform for stuff from various manufacturers to talk to each other. And to make it pretty, we use Home Assistant to display/control all this stuff, although it’s mostly not critical for that to remain working. Multiple redundancy and everything remains on the local network. ‘I really should do a write up about the benefits of this. I find myself repeating myself frequently.

ASC? If you mean the CBI Astute then it doesn't detect anything on its own. It's just a really big relay, with power monitoring and Wifi capability. You can use the CBI App to program timers for it and measure power, but that's pretty much it. If, however, you decide to flash it with Tasmota (fiddly in this case) then you can make it really smart. I should make a post somewhere on the benefits of flashing proper smart firmware to the 'smart' switches, as opposed to using the dumb apps these come with.

Like the previous poster said, your best option for whole house monitoring is a clamp based meter. It's not 100% accurate, but it will give you a very good idea of your average consumption. I happen to have an unused one if you interested; I based my inverter specification off the data I gleaned from an Efergy clamp on type system.

I still need to do this with mine at some point. As it is I want to change the 3kW element for a 2kW one.

I see this thread now again and, as much as I hate Goodwe right now, the wifi connection has been rock solid. My home automation connects to it and it gets polled every 15 seconds and I've genuinely not had a dropout since my last post above a few months back. I'd love to know what's the difference between my setup and those of others. I can mention I have a pretty high end Ubiquity wifi installation throughout the house. These cheap wifi routers you get with your internet provider are mediocre at best. That being said, I've had to make changes to my wifi network a few times and the inverter gracefully recovered from those outages every time. Weird...

I used timers as well in the beginning, but it was a pain to manage that and prevent the battery feeding back into the grid when the load wasn't drawing a lot of power. I just got the dynamic On-Grid DoD change working on the HA driver last night. Still a few bugs to fix, but it works. I can now leave the inverter in General mode but leave DoD at 100% during the day (thus not using batteries at all for loads) and change it to, say 30% at night after all the heavy consumers are done. I can even detect when the high consumers kick in and dynamically change DoD so the inverter wouldn't use battery for those. This change is immediate without the inverter needing a restart. Now I can decide when the inverter should use the batteries in on grid mode without them getting murdered when someone uses the oven or the geyser kicks in when there's no PV. All these workarounds for something that Goodwe can simply fix in their software.

At least they won't flip you the bird as Goodwe would. Warranty without any support is worth as much as the text on their website. If I come across as bitter then you are reading me correctly

I think I posted somewhere that you should rather try the builder's express. They still don't know what it is, but at least you can point them to it. I bought 4 at the local express last Friday. Even with the default firmware, the voltage readings are off - in some cases by almost 10%. If you don't mind DIY you can make a below average unit perform brilliantly though, if accurate power monitoring is important to you.