markus_m2

Put in a relay - controlled either by physical wire (as mentioned a small set of wires would suffice, so you may be able to chase through existing conduit), or controlled by a smart switch (sonoff or similar) which disconnects over wifi when load shedding.

Sunsynk has an excellent reputation locally, but recent support issues has that reputation (no longer so) slowly waning... As alluded to in a previous post, having a local support centre means F-all if this is the level of support we get!

Oh really, OK, my bad, didn't know there were old versions without CAN support

Continuous 37A each...

Try do it manually... 1. Connect to inverter WiFi 2. Enter inverter wifi IP address into a Web browser (IIRC it's 10.0.0.2 or 10.0.0.39, if that doesn't work then check IP address in the user manual, or even in EZManage). Hold on, EZManage??? If memory serves that's only for ongrid Goodwes (not for hybrids - ES Series). Another option, try PVMaster App...

If budget is tight, start with the 3.3 from main house into cottage - run like that for a while, and take particular care on cloudy days (although your panel setup should mostly charge even on cloudy day), until you've figured out where you stand - from the limited info I'd say your 3.3 should suffice for the cottage, and two 3.3s may suffice for the house. If after running like this for a while you find its too tight (you wouldn't want cottage to discharge to 30% every night for example) then add the 5kwh (swap around again). Unless the budget allows to just splash on the 5kwh from the start - but running it "closer to margin" for a while will also give you a better understanding of the system and your / the cottage's needs.

That's a very old firmware, rather update (Goodwe support)

Item: Battery cabinet. I've had all forms of Pylons in there (US5000, 3000 & 2000), fit well. It'll easily fit three 3000s, I'm sure it'll even take a 5000 and two 3000s (to give an idea of height). Age: Roughly 3yrs Price: R2,000 Payment Method Accepted: Cash or EFT Warranty: None Packaging: None Condition: Used (but good - other than a hole drilled in the right side to route the battery cables it's in perfect nic). Location: Pretoria, close to Menlyn Reason: Battery bank has outgrown the cabinet Shipping: Preferably not Collection: Preferred

Presuming it is indeed a GW5048D-ES, it will happily accept the US3000C incl. comms. If contrary to this you're still keen to sell let me know, would like to upgrade my dads inverter (with two US2000s 😉

And SOLD to @Davy

Will contact @mzezmanif @Davyfalls through for whatever reason @Davysent WA...

Item: Earth Neutral Bridge Box ACDB-ARENB-25A (as used with the Sunsynk systems for example) Age: Never installed, never used, brand new Price: R 950 Payment Method Accepted: EFT or Cash Warranty: Two weeks' refund option in case defective Packaging: In original box Condition: Brand new Location: Pretoria, close to Menlyn (after hours) or Wonderboom Airport (office hours) Reason: Surplus to requirements Shipping: Prefer collection, but can also courier (at your cost) Collection: Yes preferred Link: https://powerforum-store.co.za/collections/accessories/products/earth-neutral-bridge-box-for-ac-protection-box

Hi Barry, if Dox not keen then I may be. Pls DM details

Very interesting, thanks @Nexuss...quick search didn't find a single "correctly" wired combiner / protection box. Here just a single example: Am I missing something?

Talking a basic DC fuse holder for the PV string. I had read somewhere on Powerforum someone allude to the fact that the supply input should always be connected at the top; reasoning was that if connected to the bottom, and one opened the holder (to change the fuse for example) the fuse could still be live, as the bottom has a permanent connection (not sure if this is the case?), whereas the top disconnects on opening. Cannot find that post on this site, but it'd made sense to me at the time. But now, looking at tons of commercial combiner boxes, they wire the load input into the bottom of the fuse holder?!?! Is there a correct (safer) way to wire these holders or can the input be connecter to either end?

I suspect thats the issue - the US3000C uses a different cable compared to the older US3000s (different pin-outs). You'll need to crimp a new plug on according to correct pin outs (steps have been discussed in other threads) or buy the appropriate cable.

Which battery @Christoph ?

To my understanding, all panels will then run as if they were all 460w panels (although 470s might offer slighly higher voltage). So definitely can do with a very slight loss (presuming of course the combined voltage fits the MPPT range max). Would welcome some other expert input though 😉

My understanding: in series, the entire series will run at the amps of the lowest rated panel. So effectively, presuming similar specs, your 470w panels will be "de-rated" to 460w, no other issue. But as previous poster pointed out, compare the spec sheets, specifically the amp ratings.

Edit - check your 2 battery pic - BMS cable was connected to middle bottom port. Do same on new master. Added: seems you're now also using a different BMS cable? Previous one was grey...New cable could have wrong pin connections

Edit - check your 2 battery pic - BMS cable was connected to middle bottom port. Do same on new master

BMS cable is plugged into the wrong port. That port is for battery paralleling, basically master battery top "paralleling" port needs to be empty. Can't remember which of the other 4 ports to connect to for RS485, but surely not the one its currently connected to

@PearlJam, where are you based? (How cold is it there?) My (older) Canadians also get "above kWp" spikes on cloudy days, but relatively short lived...seems you've tapped into a free energy source over and above PV 😉

I'd say you can upgrade straight ... Q: anyone noticed big difference 1.7 to 1.8? (Is the upgrade worth it?)

Standard RJ45 won't work for @Jameel Fakee. Jameel you haven't mentioned what battery manufacturer; almost certain though you'll need a certain RJ45 cable (or you could crimp one yourself based in pinout diagrams in inverter and battery)