markus_m2

That's a hell of a change-over switch 😵 Thanks Steve, makes sense what you say ... will consider this alternative. Any other thoughts / suggestions? Is one allowed to use a neutral busbar?

Morning everyone, Scenario: need to split incoming 63A live to various "sub" supplies. Problem is that I cannot fit multiple 16mm2 and 10mm2 cables into the 63A breaker. Obvious solution, use a busbar (behind the incoming 63A MCB). Question: can one use a spare neutral busbar for such Live distribution? Considering the busbar is exposed once DB cover is removed.... If yes, this is allowed, I'd still prefer to cover the live busbar with some sort of plastic / insulation. Any idea where to get such "busbar plastic protection cover"? Other option, maybe best to just get an additional covered busbar or distribution block, such as this? Keen to hear suggestions, thanks all...

Even better - https://www.em.co.za/M107G

My bet is on you exporting power and being charged for it... Make sure your CT coil is correctly installed and disable export to grid.

Hi @Speedster, yes it is 😉 Zero eightytwo ninety ninety dbl3 four

Aha...cheers for that, will check it out tomorrow...

OK, I'm following closely to see if you do come right I have my D1 mini sitting here on my desk (on the "to-do-when-I-have-time" pile, lol)... do hope to get it up and running one day to feed to HomeAssistant

tbh, I'm not familiar with the differences between the ports .... I had plugged into the console port, if I remember correctly the same port that I'd used to read details with Batteryview / do FW upgrades. So you may be onto something why I couldn't get it working? (using the wrong port) This was a while ago that I'd tried it so can't remember all details 🤔

Yep, tried it according to https://github.com/irekzielinski/Pylontech-Battery-Monitoring/blob/master/README.md But couldn't get it working ... somewhere between the D1 Mini, the RSS232 to TTL and the battery I couldn't pickup any comms - eventually ran out of time without it working, sorry can't give more reasons what the issue was...

@Bobster. I have same inverter .... can't speak to your scenario specifically (and I haven't read through this entire thread), but I have noticed that when there's big power shifts (switching big geyser off for example) then PV production drops drastically (to track load, or even less meaning slight import from Eskom), and then takes a while (maybe 5min) to ramp up production again (and/or pull from batteries rather than grid). I vaguely remember once having Eskom come back and it doing same as you describe (running general mode), but that could be a false memory Point is, next time it happens, let it stand for 10min and see if it "catches up" again. I do find it kinda annoying the way it seems to initially "shift to grid" on big power shifts (big load off or on, or as you state load shedding ends), maybe its to do with not hammering the battery this way and then that. In the big scheme of things however, for my own use, its a small annoyance rather than an actual issue...

Nope no such limitation... I would try take the THR320D away from geyser, temp probe direct into hot mug of water. Let it cool, make sure it reads entire range. Then, do same with the extension cable - see what difference it makes. In my case I found the electromagnetic interference up in the roof messed with my UTP extension, as soon as I used STP cable my issue was sorted (20deg up to at least 70deg reading correctly)

Had same issue on my own extension cable...blanked out between roughly 28deg and 42deg.... Extension was made up of good quality UTP cable, about 15m. Tried many tricks to fix this, and what eventually did it was changing to STP cable! Seems the cable needs the shielding... @Muchachos you did mention using an extension although it sounds like the original Sonoff extension? Weird, that should work..how many meters you extending?

Also in for one ...

Yes congrats @Gefahrlich...pls write a review of the install and operation 😉

As for your aux port vs essential load question @Oelof, if you have no "smart" way of controlling the geyser (HomeAssistant or similar) then probably best to wire to and program the aux port...as per the diagram you posted, that'll prevent it discharging batteries too far in cases of load shedding during inclement weather days... If wanting to keep it really simple then just wire it on non-essential side, but that'll mean no water heating during load shedding, even during max solar production;-)

Personally I wouldn't bother with seperate panels and seperate geyserwise mppt...that'll limit those panels to only heating water (wasted potential once water is done heating) Rather invest the money in more panels connecting to your main system and have that heat the water.

Estimated readings are averaged out based on historical consumption (prior PV and borehole)...submit actual readings (read your meter) at the correct time of month, that way CoJ won't just estimate the consumption...

20% is about right this time of year...as mentioned, give the sun some time to climb higher. At 30deg tilt you'll be styling around September;-)

Suppose I could, not sure...any reason not to keep it on the SD card (as alluded to by @name ?) other than running out of 64GB space in future? Could / should one run the HASS OS off the SD card and store data on SSD? Or can one boot off SSD directly without any SD card installed? Any other good reason to migrate to a mini PC rather than keeping it all on the Pi400?

Wish I'd read this advice before journeying down the rabbit hole 😉 I've installed on Pi400, obviously running off a SD card (64GB)...cost me around R1,500. No issues yet, but I'm pretty early in the install and I've been wondering whether speed and/or space issues may creep up in future... @Sc00bs would you suggest I migrate over to another "mini PC" sooner rather than later? Didnt even know about these mini PC's TBH, will check it out....

Where do you try make the change? Sems portal or PVMaster or SolarGo? Sems portal seems iffy in making changes, try SolarGo (you have to be logged onto same WiFi network which inverter is connected to)

Hi @brussel, I meant to update this thread but clearly forgot... Replaced the cable with SHIELDED UTP5, works perfectly! Been going over three weeks now, 30deg up to 65deg, reads perfectly over the shielded cable...

Haven't read through the problems you're experiencing, but in specific reply to this one post: when extending a temperature sensor (15m) I got erratic readings until I installed a shielded cable - after that readings have been perfect... Shielding goes a long way protect from electromagnetic interference...

Thanks no that wont work, I'm in Pretoria (besides only looking for 2 panels 😉

For anybody else wondering about the different IMP ratings, here's the "official" reply from Goodwe: So, unlike Sunsynk where a firmware upgrade seemingly bumped up the Max input current, this Goodwe came out with an "upgraded hardware" version down the line...